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Zagato
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Member Since: 08 Jan 2011
Location: Billingshurst West Sussex
Posts: 4989

United Kingdom 
The LR OE mirror arms have a porous coating so the moisture simply passes through onto the "ali/metal" causing corrosion in no time. Treatment of the arms with ACF-50 as a routine with the other parts will prevent corrosion. I.e. Rivet heads, underneath the rear cappings which are bare metal Shocked , rear crossmember if still original and unpainted, hinges, wiper spigots, air intake cover screws and clips, brackets, slam panel etc in engine bay, footwell fasteners, 'A' 'B' post fasteners, window false hinge front and back, seat fasteners, rear door handle, fasteners going through body to rear crossmember, mud flap fasteners etc etc. Don,t just wipe it on, it needs to be sprayed or dabbed on with a brush. Repeat treatment to areas effected by washing, doesn,t take a minute... otherwise do a couple of times per year Thumbs Up
Post #951751 6th May 2022 6:59am
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Zagato
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Member Since: 08 Jan 2011
Location: Billingshurst West Sussex
Posts: 4989

United Kingdom 
dainger wrote:
This is amazing! Originally written over 10 years ago yet finding it today had made my year! Great coverage. Thanks for writing.


Practical and real life feedback from forum members has contributed greatly to this thread from off-roading hacks to concours vehicles and despite the blanket marketing of new fad products falsely stating ease of use and stopping rust, most have the common sense to realise there are no short cuts to rust prevention (you have to be methodical, prep is everything, do one section at a time and yes it will be messy and dangerous to your lungs to use) and coupled with the use of tried and tested recommended products your vehicle can be kept in very good condition avoiding corrosion which can cost thousands to rectify or drop the value of your vehicle by 3-5K in some cases. It's better to prevent corrosion than try and rectify it, once rot has set in, in some cases it cannot be easily rectified. Forget your snorkels and wheels for the moment, get some rust prevention on it first, this guide will hopefully help you Wink Thumbs Up
Post #951755 6th May 2022 7:16am
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Mossberg



Member Since: 29 Feb 2020
Location: Lancs
Posts: 552

United Kingdom 1993 Defender 90 300 Tdi HT Aintree Green
Zagato wrote:


The pitfalls of Lanoguard is widely discussed over social media BUT the advertising still sucks people in. It's a bit like Buzzweld/Raptor products were 'the trendy thing' a year or so ago (Rock hard products trapping in rust underneath). Lanoguard is largely a glue (content specs on this thread a few pages back) over a time the thin layer of glue just bubbles, delaminates from the surface and leaves a rough mess that is a sod to get off. Not practical over a whole chassis. Lanoguard has been around for a while and isn,t effective for other uses it is advertised for such as putting on boat props to keep weed off. If you have a product you want to sell it in as many markets as possible of course.


Thanks for coming back Zagato, I do appreciate your time. Unfortunately I had coated the chassis with Lanoguard before reading this reply. I am now worried that I have done the wrong thing.

You did mention references to social media reviews of Lanoguard where problems were mentioned, but unfortunately I can't find them - would you have a link as I would like to read them?

Thanks for your help.

Mick
Post #952123 9th May 2022 10:56pm
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Zagato
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Member Since: 08 Jan 2011
Location: Billingshurst West Sussex
Posts: 4989

United Kingdom 
Don,t worry Mossberg, you won,t have harmed anything it's just your efforts could have been better utilised BUT as they say constantly on Facebook posts (where real world negative posts come up, temporarily that is!!) all you do is simply squirt it on... so hopefully it wasn't a major job for you Thumbs Up

Once again you have to treat rust. Simply coating it with a barrier will obviously not stop it. Grind back rust then;

Treat with either ACF-50 or an acid rust converter like Dinitrol RC900 (DO NOT BREATH EITHER IN).
Then Dinitrol 1000
Then Dinitrol 4941
Dinitrol Stone chip where required
Dinitrol 1000 for your cavities

If you have a very good condition chassis... you are blessed Wink and very lucky to be able to use Dinitrol Corroheat clear coat.
Post #952130 10th May 2022 5:42am
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dainger



Member Since: 08 Feb 2022
Location: Harpenden
Posts: 66

United Kingdom 2015 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 XS CSW Corris Grey
So I had this sand blasted and re-sprayed 9 months ago and already the corrosion is coming back through.

Is this just to be expected? Any recommendations on how to fix / stop this getting worst?

Thanks.



Click image to enlarge




Click image to enlarge
Post #953253 22nd May 2022 9:39pm
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Crofter



Member Since: 19 Feb 2015
Location: Peterhead
Posts: 169

United Kingdom 2009 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Baltic Blue
Guys I have found this thread useful, so now I want to put it into practice.

I have a 2009 110 defender I have twice had it under sealed in it life with wax oil.
Basically I cleaned up the chassis and a local garage would do the spraying.
The guy who did the spraying is not longer with us, so I need to do it myself.

Would I be better sticking with Wax Oil or is the other stuff better?
I see they are available on EBay.

Thanks
Post #953313 23rd May 2022 11:08am
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Crofter



Member Since: 19 Feb 2015
Location: Peterhead
Posts: 169

United Kingdom 2009 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Baltic Blue
Guys I have found this thread useful, so now I want to put it into practice.

I have a 2009 110 defender I have twice had it under sealed in it life with wax oil.
Basically I cleaned up the chassis and a local garage would do the spraying.
The guy who did the spraying is not longer with us, so I need to do it myself.

Would I be better sticking with Wax Oil or is the other stuff better?
I see they are available on EBay.

Thanks
Post #953314 23rd May 2022 11:09am
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Zagato
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Member Since: 08 Jan 2011
Location: Billingshurst West Sussex
Posts: 4989

United Kingdom 
dainger wrote:
So I had this sand blasted and re-sprayed 9 months ago and already the corrosion is coming back through.

Is this just to be expected? Any recommendations on how to fix / stop this getting worst?

Thanks.



Click image to enlarge




Click image to enlarge


Sadly you will not be able to stop this corrosion which happens on the vast majority of later Defenders especially around the 14 plate age which seem to be particularly bad. It is a "metal"/"alloy" mix if you know what I mean in simple termsm, where corrosion would have started before the frame was even put on the vehicle. You can take the corrosion right back but it will come back through in no time. Have a look at other Defenders, most have already been resprayed and it's coming back through! ACF-50 will slow it down slightly but I say to most of my clients if you can source a NOS good one, hang onto it, it will be gold dust and hopefully somebody will produce better quality frames in time.
Post #953316 23rd May 2022 11:29am
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Zagato
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Member Since: 08 Jan 2011
Location: Billingshurst West Sussex
Posts: 4989

United Kingdom 
Crofter wrote:
Guys I have found this thread useful, so now I want to put it into practice.

I have a 2009 110 defender I have twice had it under sealed in it life with wax oil.
Basically I cleaned up the chassis and a local garage would do the spraying.
The guy who did the spraying is not longer with us, so I need to do it myself.

Would I be better sticking with Wax Oil or is the other stuff better?
I see they are available on EBay.

Thanks


Glad you have found the thread useful. You will have already read your answer... that the consensus is the other stuff is better Wink and you have the source to obtain it. Good luck, cover up (especially your lungs with a proper mask) and blast away. Thumbs Up You will find all the info from me and others repeatedly in this thread on what to use, how to use it and where to use it.
Post #953318 23rd May 2022 11:34am
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dainger



Member Since: 08 Feb 2022
Location: Harpenden
Posts: 66

United Kingdom 2015 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 XS CSW Corris Grey
Zagato wrote:
dainger wrote:
So I had this sand blasted and re-sprayed 9 months ago and already the corrosion is coming back through.

Is this just to be expected? Any recommendations on how to fix / stop this getting worst?

Thanks.



Click image to enlarge




Click image to enlarge


Sadly you will not be able to stop this corrosion which happens on the vast majority of later Defenders especially around the 14 plate age which seem to be particularly bad. It is a "metal"/"alloy" mix if you know what I mean in simple termsm, where corrosion would have started before the frame was even put on the vehicle. You can take the corrosion right back but it will come back through in no time. Have a look at other Defenders, most have already been resprayed and it's coming back through! ACF-50 will slow it down slightly but I say to most of my clients if you can source a NOS good one, hang onto it, it will be gold dust and hopefully somebody will produce better quality frames in time.




That’s great all be it bad to hear.

Sorry for my ignorance, what does “NOS”? Stand for?

Thanks.
Post #953329 23rd May 2022 1:27pm
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kenzle8a



Member Since: 12 Feb 2020
Location: None
Posts: 1074

 
New old stock
Post #953330 23rd May 2022 1:34pm
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dainger



Member Since: 08 Feb 2022
Location: Harpenden
Posts: 66

United Kingdom 2015 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 XS CSW Corris Grey
Thank you. 👌
Post #953331 23rd May 2022 1:38pm
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Scotm



Member Since: 28 Feb 2014
Location: Aberdeenshire
Posts: 634

Scotland 2012 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 SW Orkney Grey
If I wanted to put ACF50 under Dinitrol how long does it need to dry?
Post #954362 1st Jun 2022 10:01pm
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Zagato
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Member Since: 08 Jan 2011
Location: Billingshurst West Sussex
Posts: 4989

United Kingdom 
If applying it thickly, leave it a day minimum. Thumbs Up Don't do it in an enclosed space, do it outside with a fan blowing the "fumes" away from you if your are applying it wholesale. It is an active ingredient and is active in your lungs. Masks don't do anything unless air fed. Deceptively nasty stuff. Do the same with Dinitrol... especially any acid converter RC900 etc.
Post #954378 2nd Jun 2022 6:42am
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Co1



Member Since: 19 Aug 2018
Location: North Yorkshire
Posts: 3604

United Kingdom 2013 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 HT Loire Blue
Scotm wrote:
If I wanted to put ACF50 under Dinitrol how long does it need to dry?


What do you mean by this? Are you applying ACF50 and then dinitrol over the top? If so, what is the reason? I am doing some dinitrol applications in the next few weeks and wondered if I should be doing the same!
Post #954411 2nd Jun 2022 12:13pm
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