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Zagato
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Member Since: 08 Jan 2011
Location: Billingshurst West Sussex
Posts: 4990

United Kingdom 
You will find your answer repeated a few times in this thread but quickly.... Any acid rust converter treatments (Ku-Rust, Fertan, Jenolite, RC900 etc etc are all the same about 6-9% acid content in various mediums) are only effective if you get the rust right down to good metal. They don,t soak into rust much at all. They are effective on metal which you can grind back to near good metal BUT on Land Rover chassis you cannot get machinery into the various nooks and crannies or in seams or welds so simply spraying it on top of rust is next to useless especially if there is significant rust. "Professionals" and DIYers have realised that ACF-50 stabilises rust more effectively, even after a year when it becomes inactive. I have had a test area going back 9 years that I have retreated once and it has not got any worse. I'm not suggesting this would be the same on a Defender chassis... how it Is prepped... seams, welds, conditions... all considered but it is definitely more effective than acid convertors in rustier areas. Don,t be tempted to use the tough hard coatings you are just trapping in rust, not stopping it... despite what so many products claim about stopping rust, they don't, they just stop it showing through or simply cover over rust!
ACF-50 is not that durable to road conditions long term, especially off-road so you need to put a covering over it to protect it. Dinitrol 4941 is ideal for this. At first it will have a tacky, wet look, but it will go off to the dry matt finish after a couple of weeks 👍 You can buy 4litres of ACF-50 for £80 from The Sportsbikeshop you will probably only need half of that. If using a compressor you will need the paint spraying type or brush it on, or spray it on with a simple garden hand pumped sprayer e.g. Old empty bug sprayer.
The point with Defender chassis is to have the ability to slow the rot right down, be able to keep an eye on corroded areas and retreat when necessary every 4-5 years if required.
Post #954417 2nd Jun 2022 2:51pm
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s55shh



Member Since: 30 Dec 2019
Location: staffs
Posts: 184

United Kingdom 
£75 delivered. I just bought some...
Post #954418 2nd Jun 2022 3:04pm
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Co1



Member Since: 19 Aug 2018
Location: North Yorkshire
Posts: 3616

United Kingdom 2013 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 HT Loire Blue
Awesome info, very much appreciated.
Post #954422 2nd Jun 2022 3:35pm
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Zagato
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Member Since: 08 Jan 2011
Location: Billingshurst West Sussex
Posts: 4990

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Pleasure 👍

This is a chassis I did last week, you can just see the shinier, wetter looking patches of the ACF-50 underneath the matt Dinitrol still to dry, pics taken a day after top coat 🙂


Click image to enlarge



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This is pretty much a dry, non tacky, not streaky, smart, uniform matt black finish. Just a few bits still to go off.




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Top tip... if you have any stickers, chassis labels or nice shock absorbers etc, you can use Dinitrol clear Corroheat as pictured here. It all matches up as you can see. This is all ACF-50'd apart from the actual sticker, clear coat on the whole flat chassis side and 4941 either side of the main panel where the suspension brackets are it all matches the same colour.


Click image to enlarge


Just to say I am going off grid for two weeks in Norway but will answer messages etc when I return.
Post #954425 2nd Jun 2022 4:54pm
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Zagato
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Member Since: 08 Jan 2011
Location: Billingshurst West Sussex
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Something different Cool 61 plate camper conversion.


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Post #956726 28th Jun 2022 12:02pm
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Poulstonb



Member Since: 30 Jun 2022
Location: Styal
Posts: 87

United Kingdom 
Looking at getting this done , what’s the cost today?
Post #957306 4th Jul 2022 9:44pm
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Poulstonb



Member Since: 30 Jun 2022
Location: Styal
Posts: 87

United Kingdom 
Looking at getting this done , what’s the cost today?
Post #957307 4th Jul 2022 9:44pm
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Zagato
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Member Since: 08 Jan 2011
Location: Billingshurst West Sussex
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This is the very nice brother of the previous Series One pictured!


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Post #957317 4th Jul 2022 10:54pm
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Zagato
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Member Since: 08 Jan 2011
Location: Billingshurst West Sussex
Posts: 4990

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This is gorgeous/mint with ONLY 200 MILES on the clock :shock


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On her way home... reminds me of when dealership lorries used to unload new ones to me... how time flies and if only all of them were done from new, so many really rotten ones around now Rolling Eyes

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Post #957318 4th Jul 2022 10:56pm
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Zagato
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Member Since: 08 Jan 2011
Location: Billingshurst West Sussex
Posts: 4990

United Kingdom 
Nice selection. Local LR's for a change. One of the 90's has only done 6500 miles Shocked I have done it from new Very Happy


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Post #958598 17th Jul 2022 10:28am
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blackrock



Member Since: 01 May 2022
Location: Hampshire
Posts: 57

United Kingdom 2012 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 SW Firenze Red
The footwell photo at the start of this thread doesn't seem to be painted. These are mine:



Click image to enlarge



Click image to enlarge


They appear to have a dusting of paint, but are in what looks to me like good condition after ten years or so. is there a reason why the large area isn't painted, this vehicle has had dinitrol I think, a while ago, but the footwells have been left. Is this where POR15 rust preventative paint would be a good idea?

Has the footwell at the start of the thread actually been painted?

Andrew
Post #958602 17th Jul 2022 11:26am
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Zagato
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Member Since: 08 Jan 2011
Location: Billingshurst West Sussex
Posts: 4990

United Kingdom 
As you say they may have a dusting of outer main body over spray but no not intentionally painted apart from what the panel already has on it prior to cutting and assembly. Clear Dinitrol Corroheat is one very way to go... this picture from a silver 90 in at the moment prior to treatment... no outerbody over spray either! The majority of the underneath panel areas are the very last to corrode if not in a high abrasion area. Covering whole panels with paint or thick underseal quite often traps moisture underneath especially if you are sealing in panels where they overlap. Common to see rot where people have done this. Remember Defenders leak and you leave no where for the moisture to get out... especially around the footwell and rear rub!

Click image to enlarge
Post #958611 17th Jul 2022 12:59pm
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Zagato
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Member Since: 08 Jan 2011
Location: Billingshurst West Sussex
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This chassis was in VERY nice condition, a real pleasure to work on and nice to meet its owner Thumbs Up


Click image to enlarge
Post #960827 6th Aug 2022 2:24pm
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Andrew95



Member Since: 27 Jul 2022
Location: Midlands
Posts: 58

United Kingdom 1997 Defender 110 300 Tdi SW Corris Grey
A couple of years ago I had a half chassis replacement and the whole underside was treated with buzweld. Although its still in good condition, the front could do with some TLC and the whole thing could just do with a touch up. What I really like about it is that I can get up close with and personal with a jetwash and clean it off without damaging the paint.

Is this something dinitorl will stand up to? Or if I went this route would I need to be gentle with the jet wash?
Post #962135 18th Aug 2022 2:53pm
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Andrew95



Member Since: 27 Jul 2022
Location: Midlands
Posts: 58

United Kingdom 1997 Defender 110 300 Tdi SW Corris Grey
A couple of years ago I had a half chassis replacement and the whole underside was treated with buzweld. Although its still in good condition, the front could do with some TLC and the whole thing could just do with a touch up. What I really like about it is that I can get up close with and personal with a jetwash and clean it off without damaging the paint.

Is this something dinitorl will stand up to? Or if I went this route would I need to be gentle with the jet wash?
Post #962136 18th Aug 2022 2:53pm
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