It�s about time we had some sort of guide as a �sticky� for the forum and I invite others to add to this guide. Having used Waxoyl in the past I now recommend using products such as Dinitrol or Bilt Hamber, the use of Dinitrol is what this guide is based on and what I (CC Automotive) use. I offer this as a service to those who having read this article don't fancy getting mucky!! PM me for a quote or if you would like some advice on doing the job yourself. A guide price is �490 including sealing windows and stone chip and all the work on the upper body as well as chassis of course after any rust has been corrected. Tel 01403 784686 or I can pm you the detailed description of my work, takes about 8-9 hours, this is not a quick splurge of underseal underneath!
Dinitrol kit DIN02L (Aerosol) or better DIN02XL or DIN01L (Spray gun) both are for a 90 or 110 and can be obtained from http://www.rejel.com/rejel-store/list/1/ca...vel/a.aspx Comes with an extension nozzle, and rust convertor spray and boiler suit, gloves, mask etc on request. If ordering the spary gun kit you will still need a few aerosols as spray gun nozzles are too big to get into the smaller holes/areas that need doing! A quick spray all over everything underneath is only a part job, you really do need to get into all the the little box sections and areas as these things rot from the inside out where you cannot see.
ACF-50, for rust prevention and cure and to protect your electrics, can be obtained from E-Bay, Wemoto.com It's clear and good for the visible bits you want protecting but don't want brown underseal covering everything!
Plenty of rags and old sheets/tarpaulins if you don�t want your driveway getting messy! Especially if using Waxoyl which can bubble up tarmac, don't ask how i know
I crawl under the vehicles I do so no need for ramps etc but if you have use of a friends pit or lift it would make the job easier!
Before commencing the chassis must be clean and dry bearing in mind that it can take 4-5 days for the box sections to dry out naturally during summer months. Once clean any areas of rust must be treated. This is commonly done with an acid converting treatment such as the one supplied in the Dinitrol kit. Simply spray it on ready for the under-seal to go on top. Any significant rust on older chassis will need removing first.
I spray the outside of the chassis first and do the inner chassis last as it will drip out of the box sections. Working from front to back you can spray pretty well everything apart from obviously the alternator, brakes, and some electrical boxes. It is obvious when you get underneath what and what not to spray, a big cloth will help you mask off areas you don�t want over-spray. Don�t put too much on the prop shafts if you do them, as it may cause an imbalance and vibration. Work methodically covering every angle and go back and check a couple of times that everything has been covered properly.
For the chassis inners there are numerous holes in the chassis to push the extension nozzle into, just work in one direction spraying the can whilst pulling the extension nozzle out slowly. I use the holes on the inner side of the chassis also to give a thorough job. You will see corner plates with holes, holes either end of the rear tub spreaders, tricky areas such as the rear cross-member and at the end of the front dumb irons etc, etc, again just go through it methodically taking off anything that will improve your work (front bumper for instance!)
Doors pillars can be sprayed by taking off the top hinges and or pushing the extension nozzle up from underneath. Some off the access points are covered with a grommet which needs to be removed.
Doors themselves can be sprayed by pushing the extension nozzle up the sides and along the bottom using the existing door drain holes. Careful if using Waxoyl it can ripple rubber and plastic. E.G. your doors seals as a forum member experienced!
The bulkhead top can be accessed with the extension nozzle by removing the grommets covering the redundant windscreen wiper arm holes.
Using ACF-50 spray underneath all your body capping�s as they are not painted underneath, I have also then sprayed Dinitrol underneath on top of the ACF-50 and will keep spraying at least twice a year just to make sure nothing is corroding. Many of the 60 plate models have brown rust staining coming out from new!
ACF-50 your bulkhead to bonnet hinges. Again brown staining from new is present on many of the 60 plate examples. ACF-50 stops it dead.
Spray also your;
door hinges and fasteners,
bonnet hinges and fasteners,
bulkhead to windscreen hinges,
wiper arms and their bases in particular,
screws holding front grill etc,
front lower ali panel,
body rivets, they can rust in the middle as well as corrode on the outside, most can be treated from inside the vehicle also,
Door seal rivets,
radiator brackets and fasteners, fan screws etc etc (alot of this can be sprayed through the grill so you don't need to take it off!),
wing mirror arm fastener cover, just cover it all and wipe off,
exterior part or rear window latch,
inside of towing electrics plug and behind,
rear of lights electrics (mud rots the wires away!)
rear tub door shut metal strip,
rear wheel holder,
engine bulkhead side and all electrics, common rail, brackets, fasteners etc etc being careful not to spray the belt and pulleys,
inner bonnet edges (& Dinitrol!),
any nuts and bolt heads, screw etc you can see inside the vehicle. The lower seat belt bracket bolts can rust very quickly for instance,
seat frames brackets are especially worth doing also.
The Defender is only part sealed from new so a water ingress manual is kindly provided so we can do it ourselves!
By far the easiest way is to get your local window fitter to come and seal your windows, it�s a tricky messy job so it�s �100 well spent. You don't want water sitting under your window rubbers just rotting everything away and it saves a lot of leak problems. The body capping�s and other areas you can easily do yourself whilst checking on the existing factory seals e.g. window frame to roof.
I can only find a link to the old Water Ingress Manual which is still relevant of course but it would be nice to have a link to the Puma one if anyone can find one. Old manual still very useful...
Window frame hinges are worth taking off and whacking in some extra sealant if you are fussy!
I have sealed the corners of the windows properly, sealant is "thumbed in" at the factory and missed in places so it's worth doing. This pic shows no sealant and needs doing in the bottom corner!
Some capping's are not very flush so pumping in sealant is definitely a good idea as per the water ingress manual.
Get as much ACF-50 as you can underneath these cappings, some are rusting underneath from new.
The main top capping, running front to back is not painted from new underneath and the 90 models have a weld which can rust also, so again plenty of spray up underneath.
Again being fussy but it's a quick job to spray the spring clips of the vent cover, they are rusty from new!
Bonnet to bulkhead hinge can be rusty from delivery new ...the plate rivet welded onto the bulkhead I mean, really important to keep an eye on that
It's worth holding a rag over these door pillar holes to avoid overspray when you stick the extension nozzle up.
Click image to enlarge
Footwells also worth treating and keeping an eye on, this was mine from new I hand painted my chassis, axles,radiator brackets etc in fact anything relevant I could get a paint brush to with POR-15 which is why you can see black paint POR-15 can be bought from Frosts.co.uk if you want to go to this extent, once it is done it done for life comes in UV resistant form now also!
ACF-50 your towing set up, saves trying to get rusted nuts off eventually and keeps rust at bay
ACF-50 is great for protecting your electrics and any metal brackets, fasteners, cylinders etc, just don't get it on your belts or pulleys.
This pic shows one rear tub spreader supporting the main body (rectangular end!). Worth giving the insides a squirt of Dinitrol, muck will eat it's way through anything eventually.
And finally wipe off any drips/overspray ASAP. You will need white spirits or similar if you leave it too long, not great for your paint work!
If you need further advice or would like me to do it for you, PM me for a detailed quote or call 01403 784686 evenings
Admin note: this post has had its images recovered from a money grabbing photo hosting site and reinstated
Last edited by Zagato on 2nd Nov 2018 10:42am. Edited 32 times in total
31st Dec 2011 12:26pm
Member Since: 07 Jul 2011
31st Dec 2011 2:05pm
Member Since: 24 Jan 2010
Location: South Lanarkshire Scotland
Wow! Really useful guide...... Life is not a rehearsal!
Def 90td5 CSW xs 2006
31st Dec 2011 2:38pm
Member Since: 05 Dec 2009
A great guide. This work will at least save future owners from having to go to the expense I did of fitting galv chassis and galv bulkhead, so will hopefully make your landie more sellable?
When I partly dismantled my 300tdi for respray, the 'door hinge to bulkhead' bolts had seized, Might be worth lubricationg these also to stop the captive nuts breaking.1996 110 300tdi Bonatti Grey Double Cab USW - 2009 BMW R1200GSA - 2004 Swift Challenger 520SE
Member Since: 08 Jan 2011
Location: Billingshurst West Sussex
Took my window bolts out today and sealed em up, as my footwells are wet most of the time!! The acf 50 is this like wd 40
Jammer, ACF-50 is more than a water disperser, think it is made from white spirits or paraffin or something similar and oil. It's doesn't penetrate very well either you need Plus-Gas for that. ACF-50 will draw out moisture not just disperse it whilst actively killing rust through penetration. Details here.... http://www.acf-50.co.uk/acf50.htm It's brilliant stuff and catching on in other forums such as boating ones which is good to see. I did my badly rusting Series2 rear crossmember with it 8 months ago and the rust is still held at bay
Last edited by Zagato on 31st Dec 2011 5:14pm. Edited 1 time in total
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