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Zagato
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Member Since: 08 Jan 2011
Location: Billingshurst West Sussex
Posts: 4861

United Kingdom 

What do they call a herd of Defenders?


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This is "Captain Slows" 14 plate which I did four years ago and it is in for a touch up, although we have decided to give it the full works again as recommended by Dinitrol. It still looks really good however showing how well the treatment works... will take a pic once I have cleaned it properly! Like the wheels Very Happy


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Post #841731 4th Jul 2020 11:53am
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mk1collector



Member Since: 17 Sep 2009
Location: West Yorkshire
Posts: 6729

England 2004 Defender 110 Td5 CSW Bonatti Grey

I believe a heard of defenders is called an insanity! Ray
My build thread
http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic17615.html

Post #841738 4th Jul 2020 12:36pm
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90 Dreamer



Member Since: 13 Jul 2019
Location: Oop North
Posts: 1161

United Kingdom 2016 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 HT Corris Grey

Bankruptcy.......... Big Cry

Post #841740 4th Jul 2020 12:44pm
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Zagato
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Member Since: 08 Jan 2011
Location: Billingshurst West Sussex
Posts: 4861

United Kingdom 

Laughing

I think a Pride of Defenders should be the official description Wink

.... or maybe a Drove!

Post #841754 4th Jul 2020 2:47pm
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Zagato
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Member Since: 08 Jan 2011
Location: Billingshurst West Sussex
Posts: 4861

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Nice straight Discovery, I have a rust free V8 Japanese import Discovery coming in next month... Cool


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This is straight and honest also, never been treated but holding up very well as it isn't used much.... towing a horse box and annual shooting trips to Scotland. It comes from a farm a few hundred yards up the road from me. I should be getting another in which is two doors down from me also... Land Rovers everywhere around here Very Happy


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Post #843237 12th Jul 2020 8:50am
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Zagato
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Member Since: 08 Jan 2011
Location: Billingshurst West Sussex
Posts: 4861

United Kingdom 

Got to love a Hilux, chassis very good on this Cool


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This is 'Ronins' just in for a top up bright and early this Sunday morning and it is still VERY clean, I did this a few years ago as a hard top so was nicely shocked by the impressive conversion. Why wouldn,t you? I ran a 1960's series ll like this as a daily driver for three years... great fun. This is a really nice conversion.


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Post #844695 19th Jul 2020 10:35am
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s55shh



Member Since: 30 Dec 2019
Location: staffs
Posts: 49

United Kingdom 

Whats the opinion of our guru on this Lanoguard stuff advertised at the mo?

Post #844771 19th Jul 2020 8:35pm
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Zagato
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Member Since: 08 Jan 2011
Location: Billingshurst West Sussex
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You are too kind but Guru Embarassed I had talks about using Lanoguard from an idea I have which is in a different direction to the current work which maybe something I might follow up on if work ever gets quiet (it hasn't for the last ten years Wink ) I don,t really want to start such a venture however, I am quite happy to plod on with my work at my own enjoyable pace, my days of building small "empires" are over!!

The reason I don,t use it at the moment as said previously is that it is clear so competes directly with Dinitrol Corroheat which is unbeatable at the moment for cars that want to show off a new or very good condition underside. Most clients however want a coating like Dinitrol 4941 that provides a smart, Matt "black" coating. Lanoguard cannot do this but it does have a place for some circumstances. I would be more than happy to use it upon request.

Post #844781 19th Jul 2020 9:49pm
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EVdV



Member Since: 26 Nov 2017
Location: Vosselaar
Posts: 52

Belgium 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Keswick Green

My 2006 td5 is in need of some attention aswell. The chassis has been done and is in good nick, but the rear crossmember is showing signs of rust coming through. It was brush painted with an unknown product by the previous owner and showed small rust spots, after I removed the NAS step there was some more underneath so time for preventive measures. Wire brush untill bare metal, por 15, red ocxide paint or ... What would be the best step in this case?


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The footwells and inner side of bulkhead are sowing some rust aswell. Hand wire brush als dinitrol rust converter, followed by acf40 to slow down the rust for now?


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Post #848850 9th Aug 2020 2:48pm
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Zagato
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Member Since: 08 Jan 2011
Location: Billingshurst West Sussex
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Apologies for the late reply 'EVdV' I have been off grid for a while! You have probably found the answer to the most commonly asked question about a Defender regarding a rusty rear crossmember, numerous in depth posts on it all over the net, on this forum and in this thread with members adding there own preferences with pictures. The only thing I would add is forget red oxide paint, it is just an ancient sacrificial layer, does not actually stop or cure rust, ok for RSJ,s and barns!! Also ACF-50 is ideal for getting to the areas you cannot guarantee you can get all the surface rust off or the other bits maybe you have pictured although you cannot paint over the top of it Thumbs Up

Something completely different for this weeks work. This is the actual Earls Court Motor Show model Cool


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Post #849719 13th Aug 2020 12:22pm
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EVdV



Member Since: 26 Nov 2017
Location: Vosselaar
Posts: 52

Belgium 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Keswick Green

Thanks Zagato, I found the info indeed. Would you just treat the inside of the bulkhead with acf50 because it's unknown if there is rust inside? If I knew it was all good I'd dinitrol it, but given the interior side of the bulkhead is starting to rust, there is a good chance the inner box section is rusting aswell I presume.

Post #849738 13th Aug 2020 1:32pm
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Zagato
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Member Since: 08 Jan 2011
Location: Billingshurst West Sussex
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Yes Thumbs Up

Post #849751 13th Aug 2020 2:44pm
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L110CDL



Member Since: 31 Oct 2015
Location: Devon
Posts: 8226

England 

WOW that is a rare beast, thanks for the pic Zagato Cool 1996 Golf Blue 300Tdi 110 Pick up. Keeper.

Clayton.

Post #849858 13th Aug 2020 9:25pm
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Varyag



Member Since: 16 Aug 2020
Location: Stockholm
Posts: 3

Sweden 

Hi,

Since there seems to be quite some experienced people here, I figured I'd go ahead and ask. I'm trying to rust protect my Saab 9-3 with Dinitrol (I bought both ML and 4941/CAR), and the question is whether it's enough to just put ML as an underbody coating where there's not all that much spray as far as I know, like where the shock absorber mounts to the body above (but on the inside of) of the wheel. The plastic inner wheel well liner doesn't cover this part. Originally, this part wasn't protected at all, just some regular paint from what I can tell.

The reason why I'm hesitating is I just don't want to put on more stuff than necessary, since I'm a beginner at this and I fear that 4941 might obscure any corrosion. But maybe the elements would make this a lost cause, even though I'll only drive on decent roads, though including lots of slush, snow and salt?

It looks like this, and I'm talking about the "bracket" with the two bolts that fastens the absorber to the body (as well as the area of the body that it's fastened to), though mine had a thin paint layer on it in roughly the same color as the car: https://blog.fcpeuro.com/hubfs/Imported_Bl...rShock.jpg

Post #850411 16th Aug 2020 9:57pm
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Zagato
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Member Since: 08 Jan 2011
Location: Billingshurst West Sussex
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Hi Varyag, welcome to the forum, especially as you are from Sweden and have a SAAB Very Happy It,s all SAABs, LandRovers and the occasional Supercar here at my place this morning. Laughing Oh and a little Swedish Marieholm IF Boat to complete the theme.


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As you suggest Dinitrol ML is not resilient enough as an exposed top coat, it Is purely to help adhesion of 4941 and as a thinner cavity wax. For anything which has no rust but you want protected use Dinitrol Corroheat, one layer looks as though you have put nothing on, two layers and more and it becomes opaque. I would put two to three layers on your shock absorber mount, not cheap but superb stuff. It will go hard in time, and you can put it on anything hot without problems as it was designed as an engine detailer. Spray away Thumbs Up

Post #850434 17th Aug 2020 8:48am
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