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Zagato
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Member Since: 08 Jan 2011
Location: Billingshurst West Sussex
Posts: 4861

United Kingdom 

Hi Ian, we have pm'd each other but to answer your question on the thread also, yes Corroheat does dry but it does take a day or two to go off properly and then becomes harder after a week or two. Perfect for a new BMW Wink

Post #835703 7th Jun 2020 3:11pm
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Zagato
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Member Since: 08 Jan 2011
Location: Billingshurst West Sussex
Posts: 4861

United Kingdom 

'AndyT's Defenders, one in one out Cool


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The black 2006 TD5 is an ex farm vehicle with around 200k on the clock with a remarkably good chassis Shocked If it has been on just an arable farm sometimes they fare better than road cars as they don,t see salt. Winter road salt is a killer to the body and chassis. Many vehicles however are used on stock farms where the poo just eats the metal similar to salt. Farm poo will destroy concrete as well I remember from my farming days. Enjoy your Sunday breakfast Wink The TD5 has also been treated before which can save years on the life of the chassis...and body if done properly.

Not always but sometimes the inner, lower seam of the rear crossmember is a good indicator of what state the chassis is in. This is still good on the 2006 TD5 but many are blowing at this age...


Click image to enlarge

Post #837098 14th Jun 2020 10:21am
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Zagato
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Member Since: 08 Jan 2011
Location: Billingshurst West Sussex
Posts: 4861

United Kingdom 

Another local Defender. This one is having a few mods... anything is better than the useless original front bumper that just folds up on impact caving in your front wing.


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Post #837471 16th Jun 2020 9:59am
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Andy T



Member Since: 25 Aug 2017
Location: Bucks
Posts: 47

United Kingdom 2006 Defender 90 2.5 TD SW Barolo Black

Zagato wrote:
'AndyT's Defenders, one in one out Cool


Click image to enlarge


The black 2006 TD5 is an ex farm vehicle with around 200k on the clock with a remarkably good chassis Shocked If it has been on just an arable farm sometimes they fare better than road cars as they don,t see salt. Winter road salt is a killer to the body and chassis. Many vehicles however are used on stock farms where the poo just eats the metal similar to salt. Farm poo will destroy concrete as well I remember from my farming days. Enjoy your Sunday breakfast Wink The TD5 has also been treated before which can save years on the life of the chassis...and body if done properly.

Not always but sometimes the inner, lower seam of the rear crossmember is a good indicator of what state the chassis is in. This is still good on the 2006 TD5 but many are blowing at this age...


Click image to enlarge




..one VERY happy customer Thumbs Up
All that knowledge yet such humility Bow down
thank you Chris! 2015 2.2 Corris Grey 90
2009 2.4 Alaska White 110 Hardtop
2006 TD5 Barolo Black 90
1995 TD5 Green 90 - gone
1984 2.25 Marine Blue 88

Post #837691 16th Jun 2020 11:55pm
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Ian80



Member Since: 06 Jun 2020
Location: cambridge
Posts: 6

United Kingdom 

has anyone use xcp rust blocker or lanoguard products please?

Post #837842 17th Jun 2020 5:18pm
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Zagato
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Member Since: 08 Jan 2011
Location: Billingshurst West Sussex
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Hi Ian, I am in talks with Lanoguard at the moment with regards to the actual product and how the home mechanic can apply the product effectively. This natural product has been used extensively for the past 30 odd years in the industrial arena and continues to be highly effective as a coating in the Marine and Aviation sectors for instance. It can be applied at different temperatures and methods giving a slight difference of the coating suited to differing applications. Lanoguard are hoping to refine their kit for the DIYer working on vehicles and I hope to be able to help them with that. Watch this space as they say. I hope to be able to offer the product alongside Dinitrol for those interested. Thumbs Up

Post #838304 19th Jun 2020 4:36pm
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Ian80



Member Since: 06 Jun 2020
Location: cambridge
Posts: 6

United Kingdom 

From looking at there site, they do a 2L moto kit, that has a trigger spray head on a long tube, might come in handy.

Post #838640 21st Jun 2020 1:58am
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Zagato
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Member Since: 08 Jan 2011
Location: Billingshurst West Sussex
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Yes there is also a pressurised stainless steel applicator with wand etc which could be improved upon or adapted if required. I think Lanoguard could be a very good, eco friendly product, the limitations are that you still need to "correct" any corrosion prior to application (no problem, this has to be done with other products) and that the finish is clear to opaque. This could be ok on brand new vehicles, or working vehicles where the finish does not matter or where the owners are happy to keep an eye on corrosion but many would prefer the smart, black finish that Dinitrol provides. As a clear product it is competing with Dinitrol Corroheat, a hard product to beat unless you take into account the eco friendly factor. I am more than happy to use Lanoguard on request Thumbs Up

This is Bumpy's truck... POW! Have some of that Laughing Looks impressive in the sun Cool


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Post #839563 25th Jun 2020 8:23am
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Ian80



Member Since: 06 Jun 2020
Location: cambridge
Posts: 6

United Kingdom 

looking good

another clear product is bilt hamber UC, that is ment to set to a candle wax hardness

Post #839640 25th Jun 2020 2:28pm
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Zagato
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Member Since: 08 Jan 2011
Location: Billingshurst West Sussex
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Tried it a long time ago as well as others a long way back in this thread, stays tacky for too long, picks up all the crap and unbody is streaky! Dinitrol gives a nice dry, smart matt black finish.

Post #839671 25th Jun 2020 4:23pm
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Scotm



Member Since: 28 Feb 2014
Location: Aberdeenshire
Posts: 487

Scotland 2012 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 SW Orkney Grey

How good is Dinitrol Corroheat on high impact areas? My chassis is covered in Dynex UC and with the salty roads up here I have to redo high impact areas particularly axles and rear wheel arch every year.

I am keen to keep with clear product. Would corroheat go over any existing Dynex UC?

Post #839796 26th Jun 2020 9:13am
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Zagato
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Member Since: 08 Jan 2011
Location: Billingshurst West Sussex
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"high impact areas"!? It is not as good as a stone chip and never will be but it does harden well in time if you put 4-5 layers on. It is not so waxy, think of it more like a thicker lacquer that you would have to build the layers up. It could handle light abrasion from long grass, occasional mud dunking but would not stand up to stone chips in the wheel arches! Yes it will go over your UC and will help protect it Thumbs Up

Post #839872 26th Jun 2020 2:56pm
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Zagato
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Member Since: 08 Jan 2011
Location: Billingshurst West Sussex
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This just in, nice colour (Tonga Green) Thumbs Up


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Post #840234 28th Jun 2020 2:42pm
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Huttopia



Member Since: 23 Feb 2016
Location: West Midlands
Posts: 1717

United Kingdom 2015 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 Heritage Edition SW Grasmere Green

Hi,

I had this steam cleaned yesterday. The paint on the galv chassis came off, along with everything else! I don’t know what the product on the chassis was, it was done about 8 years ago.

Click image to enlarge



What would be needed to get this looking tidy and protected?

Thanks

Huttopia

Post #841581 3rd Jul 2020 6:23pm
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Zagato
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Member Since: 08 Jan 2011
Location: Billingshurst West Sussex
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United Kingdom 

To paint you would need to etch prime then paint with something of your choice BUT the best way as it is already corroding would be to ACF-50 it, then the usual Dinitrol process, i.e. Layer of 1000 then 4941 and 447 for those areas you want stone chip covering! Thumbs Up

Post #841730 4th Jul 2020 11:51am
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