 | Home > Maintenance & Modifications > Corrosion Prevention Guide! |
 
|
|
|
| Kenge Member Since: 18 Sep 2014 Location: Sussex Posts: 3  
|
Very informative. I am probably not capable of doing it myself so will pm you when allowed, I am a new member 😊
|
||
11th Oct 2014 8:48am |
|
| Zagato Site Supporter Member Since: 08 Jan 2011 Location: Billingshurst West Sussex Posts: 4990
|
Good luck Steve, give me a call if you get into difficulties but it does sound from your past work that you are more than capable
I have replied to your pm 'Kenge'  |
||
|
11th Oct 2014 11:16am |
|
| Velo-felo Member Since: 18 Sep 2014 Location: Forest of Dean Posts: 19 
|
Well... It's certainly a messy job and Zagato you deserve a medal for doing more than one! Took me a good half day to prepare it and do the rust converter bit then another full day to wax the cavities and underside.. My clothes, my drive and me will never rust I can tell you! It's nasty stuff, gets everywhere and I won't even bother putting my clothes in the wash, straight to the bin!
I was as thorough as I could be but I still think there are bits you just can't get to, maybe easier on a relatively new one but a 10 yr old 90 May be a bit trickier. Still it's done, nice and dry weather so hopefully its a good job. Steve |
||
|
17th Oct 2014 7:17pm |
|
| lohr500 Member Since: 14 Sep 2014 Location: Skipton Posts: 1286 
|
+1 on the messy job comment. But another big thank you to Zagato and others for posting so much good information on the rustproofing process.
I attacked my 2011MY XS 110 Station Wagon today with the ACF50 and Dinitrol 3125, after a thorough steam cleaning yesterday to remove a load of mud and loose paint. I went for a kit from Rustbuster which uses a pressurised gun with quick release probes/nozzles and bulk Dinitrol fluids. It worked out a bit more expensive than the Rejel kits, but the gun comes with two different probes and a spray nozzle. Also I think it will work out more versatile in the future as you can just fill the gun from cans, rather than buying the shultz type cans. Also because the gun is pressurised, it seems more consistent than the Shultz type guns. Anyway I've gone through close to 7 litres of 3125, although a fair amount has run out of the Landy and onto the chippings on the drive. The oils slick reminds me of my Series 1 days 
I removed the front bumper and grill so I could get to the rusted bracketry holding the air con radiator in place and to get better access to the front chassis legs. With the back wheels driven up a pair of car ramps and the front axle on axle stands with the wheels off, clearance was pretty good. I also had the headlight surrounds removed which gave good access to the inner wings. I noticed a cracked headlamp which led to another rust problem. The headlamp bezel was rusted to bits so I've ordered a set of stainless replacements. They will get a coating of 3125 along with the fitting screws etc when fitted to make the job of changing a bulb easier in the future. Injected loads of cavity wax into the chassis legs and outriggers and coated all the panel seams I could see underneath as well as all the rear tub and tub support base. Also blasted loads into the rear cross member and up behind the fuel tank which I left in place. As per other suggestions I removed the blanking plugs below the windscreen where the LHD wipers are mounted and blasted loads of wax in through there. The bulkhead sides can be attacked through the hole in their bases using the long probe and the Station Wagon B pillars can also be dealt with in a similar manner by removing a plastic grommet at their bases. The seats got a good wax coating during this step as at one point the B pillar has an opening to the inside !! The bonnet also got a good coating on the inside along all the side and front seams and behind the strengthening webs that run down the sides and across the centre. I found the easiest way to tackle the front doors was to remove the trim and punch a few holes through the foam inner lining. Also it is possible to spray through some of the trim fastening holes. The back doors I did through a hole in the lock assembly which was just large enough to get the long extension probe through. I need to do the rear door with cavity wax and then I'm finished with the 3125. If the weather is half decent tomorrow it will be on with the 4941 chassis coating. Really hoping it is worth the effort and that the Dinitrol holds back the tin worm. Time for a hot bath now to get the remaining 1 litre of Dinitrol out of my hair and skin. |
||
|
31st Oct 2014 6:06pm |
|
| rsms Member Since: 12 Jan 2013 Location: Home Posts: 36 
|
Job done - another Defender protected
 Thank you for all the informations!
Maybe I was exaggeratig a bit as there is a thick (a few mm) sticky layer of Dinitrol ML inside the rear crossmember (on the bottom behind the the big oval hole - exposed to elements). Should I wipe the excess or leave it there? |
||
|
2nd Nov 2014 10:11pm |
|
| Zagato Site Supporter Member Since: 08 Jan 2011 Location: Billingshurst West Sussex Posts: 4990
|
Quick note to all those who contacted me wanting their Defenders doing over the winter period. I am getting set up to do the Dinitrolling over the colder months so please contact me again if you want your Landy done
Good Job Velo, you now have peace of mind the job was done properly
LOHR, I need to put something in my guide warning about the whole in the 'B' post  Also when you use the nozzle below the windscreen through the redundant wiper plugs, you know you have got enough in there as it all pours out onto the passenger footwell mat 
RSMS, the only excess Dinitrol I wipe off is overspray or where it is unsightly. ACF-50 is the stuff for visible or muck free areas such as engine bay, seat frames, body rivets, light rims, footwell fasteners etc and outside of the crossmember (I don't think you can get exsess Dinitrol on the inside of the Crossmember ). |
||
|
3rd Nov 2014 9:28am |
|
| Apisboy Member Since: 11 Jun 2014 Location: Lincolnshire Posts: 22 
|
Will be rust proofing my new Defender in a nice dry garage when I get it in a month or so. Superb advice here, particularly from Zagato and X4SKP. Considering two options for the chassis/underside.
Painting with POR15 and then spraying DIN4941. or Painting with POR15 and then spraying POR15 top coat chassis coat black. (now comes in an aerosol). Will use DIN 4941 for springs etc due to its better elasticity. In both cases would use the DIN77BS cavity wax for inside chassis. Will be doing the front bumper and back section (pickup) with POR15 metal prep, POR15 rust prevention paint and then POR15 top coat. Any advice or opinion most welcome as not sure which is the better option for the underside. Don't ever want to do this again so looking for the best long lasting result. |
||
|
5th Nov 2014 6:59pm |
|
| X4SKP Member Since: 29 Nov 2013 Location: Berkshire Posts: 2288 
|
Hello Apisboy
You're in the perfect position, starting with a brand new Defender...
If you want to do this once (as stated) then the POR15 is truly excellent. (I have used it on a metal framed outbuilding before cladding) I almost went this route for the Defender, but decided to remove the loose rust that was there then convert the rest with the fe-123 before applying 3 coats of Dinitrol 4941. The painted chassis on the Defender, in my opinion, is rubbish, this extends to the running gear and numerous associated parts. If you can spray all of the underside 'hardware' with the POR15 product/s, then you will avoid the long day/s it will take painting these parts by hand, but the end result will give you the tough coating that these parts currently lack. Overall I would say that a Galvanized Chassis is best, then POR15 or Bilt Hamber is in second place (I used Bilt Hamber on a full refurbishment TVR Taimar Chassis)... but as you state, finished everything with a top coat/s of Dinitrol 4941. The 4941 will have to be selectively made good later on, depending on the use to which you put your Defender, jacking points and other physical contact will mark it. It all gets interesting (sort of  ) when you think about what your trying to do... on the outside of the chassis preventing water creeping into joints and between painted layers is the key. A super tough (not hard  ) painted surface is the aim... so in short for POR15... remember there will be places that you just wont get to easily without stripping stuff away, also although semi-possible it is still very hard (in areas impossible) to get to the top of the chassis where it makes direct contact with the body work... you can get some product in there but what you want ideally is just a rolling chassis (with no body) to do the job properly... like say when at Solihull
Your approach is good, but it's not where the real long term protection is required. Internal chassis protection is the real area to get right, so DIN77BS or similar applied diligently internally is the best you can do for long term survival... What's your reason for not using the Dinitrol 3125 HS inside the chassis 
Lastly, I went back to the door channels, as I wasn't happy going through the bolt holes when removed so what I ended up doing was removing both bolts on one hinge (bulkhead side) and going in through the middle hole which gives you much better directional control to really get the 3125 (or similar) in there. Close this hinge and remove (roll away) the next hinge... so tackle one at a time
 Click image to enlarge Good luck.. it will feel strange (or maybe not) driving a brand new Defender into a garage and start taking it apart in order to make it better...
Hopefully LR will significantly improve this aspect on the next one... or it will again be left to us to sort it out. SKIP https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic83242.html |
||
|
5th Nov 2014 9:28pm |
|
| Apisboy Member Since: 11 Jun 2014 Location: Lincolnshire Posts: 22
|
Thanks for that SKIP
My thinking is that over a period of years(don't ever intend buying another car/truck again, which kind of makes my newbe cheap in the long run) the POR15 will still be there in places the DIN4941 has been scraped, brushed, washed and knocked off. So finishing it with the POR15 top coat instead of Dinitrol might give better longevity. Sure both will do a great job but it's an option. Have no experience so if someone has a good reason to prefer one to the other, it would be good to hear. Suggested DIN77BS instead of DIN3125 simply because that is the chassis wax you get with the Rejel new vehicle kit. Think the only difference is the colour, light brown. Intending to paint on the POR15 and the ACF50 work indoors and do the top coat spraying in better weather in the spring outdoors. Won't use the vehicle until all done. Don't fancy taking it to bits, but will get it up on blocks to help access. I only have to look at my old one, 2003 TD5, to see how well they rust and where. Anyway, we must all try not to get too paranoid about rust. We have these vehicles to use and enjoy afterall. Thanks for sharing your view again SKIP |
||
|
5th Nov 2014 10:25pm |
|
| X4SKP Member Since: 29 Nov 2013 Location: Berkshire Posts: 2288
|
Hi Apisboy
OK think I'v got it... When your chassis is finished with POR15, whilst spraying near enough everything else externally with 4941 (but not the chassis) is possible... personally, I would still coat everything with 4941, how ever good the POR15 painted chassis / running gear is. It adds another level of 'complexity' if you try to leave the chassis uncoated with a final layer of Dinitrol, whilst I was impressed how directional and controlled the Schutz gun was, for the sake of a few more cans of 4941, I would spray 'everything'. I agree that we should not get too paranoid here, but I have only owned 3 Land Rovers, a Series III that had no protection and was as rusty as  ... I took it apart and rebuilt it from the ground up, welding up not replacing the chassis, so when I bought a new 300tdi I did what you are about to do from new, but with Waxoyl, kept the vehicle for 19 years and it was essentially still 'near perfect' in the nasty areas, I did re-apply the Waxoyl at year 10 and 15.
My current 90 was a some what unplanned purchase, it's had quite a bit of work done to it by the previous owner, and had more or less been unused, it also had 'nothing extra' in the area of corrosion prevention, so as this one is also planned to be a keeper, I decided to do the same again. Waxoyl was good but I think Dinitrol has the edge on application, hopefully it will last and out perform Waxoyl, but currently I don't know. I will be reapplying every 5 years or so. Hope yours goes well... SKIP https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic83242.html |
||
|
5th Nov 2014 11:22pm |
|
| Apisboy Member Since: 11 Jun 2014 Location: Lincolnshire Posts: 22
|
SKIP, with the POR15 option, everything painted POR15 and then POR15 top coat (aerosol spray applied). Would only use the DIN4941 on the springs and anything else that flexes as I think it has better elasticity.
One last thought before bedtime! Does spraying the chassis wax into the doors lead to problems of smearing the side window glass each time it is moved up and down? |
||
|
5th Nov 2014 11:27pm |
|
| X4SKP Member Since: 29 Nov 2013 Location: Berkshire Posts: 2288
|
Hi Apisboy
I see what your planning to do, but when you get under there I think you may change your mind and consider spraying more than just the springs and parts that 'flex'. In spraying into the doors, (front, side and rear) through the hinge bolt holes (or behind part of the bulk head hinge) you are spraying into a channel that does not spray randomly into the cavity behind the door cards. The bolts on the doors that go right through to a retaining nut (on the inside) need to be fully removed and the inner hole covered with masking tape so that the Dinitrol stays within door channel and so you don't spray this stuff directly into the cabin of the Defender...that would be bad... 
So all good and no tinted windows... SKIP
https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic83242.html |
||
|
5th Nov 2014 11:58pm |
|
| Shutts Member Since: 10 Aug 2014 Location: Tiptree Posts: 52 
|
See I will have a busy weekend getting messy when I follow this guide. |____000_
[l_|__\___\,___ l--___--_[O==O] ()_)' '()_)-----()_) 2005 D3 SE 1998 Disco 300tdi - slow play thing 1995 Defender 300tdi - Winching play thing Aprilia RSV 1000 - fast play thing Honda CR250 - noisy play thing Essex Land Rover Club member ------- Andy's Landy's - http://www.andys-landys.blogspot.com Suspension checking workbook - http://www.disco3.co.uk/gallery/albums/use...k_v002.zip |
||
|
18th Nov 2014 11:56pm |
|
| Zagato Site Supporter Member Since: 08 Jan 2011 Location: Billingshurst West Sussex Posts: 4990
|
Just the way to get them. Brand new straight from the dealership in a cosy dry container. I am doing the full works on this one, including a hand painted chassis with POR-15
 plus a few quality accessories to fit
Admin note: this post has had its images recovered from a money grabbing photo hosting site and reinstated  |
||
|
29th Nov 2014 11:22pm |
|
|
|
| All times are GMT + 1 Hour |
< Previous Topic | Next Topic > |
Posting Rules
|
Site Copyright © 2006-2024 Futuranet Ltd & Martin Lewis
