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T1G UP



Member Since: 08 Dec 2009
Location: Bath
Posts: 3101

England 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Orkney Grey
THE webasto Thread
Lets keep this one for information regarding Webasto FBH. The models, the differences and installation do's and don'ts.

I am looking to install a webasto thermo top. There are several to chose from. The thermo top C is the universal FBH, fuel burning heater, for the defender as its rated for upto 2.5L engine. There are also a V version, a Z version plus others but we'll stick to the Z and C versions.

They are the same heater, the Z is installed into Rover 75's , Bmw X5s etc etc as an Auxiliary heater NOT a parking heater. They may not have the water pump fitted, although a lot do.

I don't want to pay the thick end of 1k for an occasional heater so i have been researching the DIY option.

I have bought a Thermo top Z/C from a Rover 75 for less than a round Whistle ( i did buy a V version off ebay but sent it back)

I'm going back for the fuel pump as it was under the car and the car was not on wheels so couldn't lift it. The Z i have bought has an external water pump as the C does. I stripped out the plugs and as much loom as i could get.

My plan is not to run it off a timer but a RF fob. I don't want to drill any extra holes in the interior and i can blip it from the kitchen window when i want to pre warm the 110.

I have been researching wiring diagrams, trouble shooting and general webasto Z/C info. I have some .PDFs to upload with loads of technical info plus a parts and price list.

i will update as i go but we are looking at a sub £250 installation. Thumbs Up
Post #166068 2nd Sep 2012 11:23pm
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Landlord



Member Since: 27 Oct 2009
Location: Hampshire
Posts: 582

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 90 Td5 HT Cairns Blue
Looking at installing a Webasto FBH as well so will be looking on with interest Thumbs Up 2007 TD5 90 Hard Top
Post #166078 3rd Sep 2012 6:50am
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VeeTee



Member Since: 06 Mar 2011
Location: Somewhere
Posts: 1512

Netherlands 
I have some Webaste (Installation) Manuals on my wesbsite, may be of interest. Cheers, Vincent
1959 Polynorm 1/4 Ton Trailer, Olive Drab Green (sold)
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1975 Series III 88 V6, Light Green (sadly sold)
1996 Defender 110 CSW 300 Tdi, Epsom Green (sold)
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MySite
Post #166080 3rd Sep 2012 7:06am
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bpman



Member Since: 21 May 2008
Location: Oslo
Posts: 8069

2008 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SVX Station Wagon Santorini Black
with a thermotop c, there are lots of questions you need to ask yourself:

1. Fuel Pickup .. do I "T" into the existing fuel pipes, use a "bean can" fitting or drop the tank and install a new feed
2. electrics: do I run it off the main battery or aux battery ?
3. control: a timer, remote, manual switch or combination?
4. where can the heater be mounted ? do you go wading, will it harm ? it will need to be kept accessable for servicing

But the main question is : Why do I want an engine block heater ?


Once you have answered all of these, you're nearly there. They are pretty straightforward to fit. there's also alot of forum experts on here, all with very different ideas and recommendations, you just need to decide on what's best for you.

Once you have the heater and fuel pump, a sub £250 install should be possible.

The T91 remote fobs are about £150 from the bay
The timers are about £70

Loom - buy a genuine one
Post #166082 3rd Sep 2012 7:30am
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tatra805



Member Since: 16 Aug 2011
Location: Dolany
Posts: 436

Slovakia 2008 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 CSW Bonatti Grey
As a first input

Be aware that a lot of the heaters on ebay were installed by the OEM as additional heater (Zusatz Heizer), not a full parking heater (standheizung)

Although both units have identical output etc the difference is in the electronics. The additional heater cannot be commanded by the normal timers and accessories. Earlier models need a different electronic board, which is not available from webasto. The later ones need a software patch, for which you need an independent webasto installer to do this (if he wants).

Also, most of the brand dedicated devices have brand specific can-bus protocols.

All these non universal heater have the Z indication in their type number= Zusatz Heizer.

On some you will get away using the new-style oval timer, which communicates over bus signal with the unit. (later models)

On others you might get away with putting the on/off signal from the timer (square types) or remote controls to the right pin on the heater unit.

On some you wont be able to make them work at all.

So be aware with the Z types.


Smile
Post #166100 3rd Sep 2012 9:42am
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T1G UP



Member Since: 08 Dec 2009
Location: Bath
Posts: 3101

England 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Orkney Grey
I am aware of the pitfalls of a Z. As I said this is a very simple machine. So the pcb won't run a timer, I don't want a timer!

I have a load of pdfs for peoples perusals once I can get them up.

£250 is my target including the webasto!
Post #166103 3rd Sep 2012 10:11am
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tatra805



Member Since: 16 Aug 2011
Location: Dolany
Posts: 436

Slovakia 2008 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 CSW Bonatti Grey
Tig UP

I’m only mentioning for those not being aware

Quote:
So the pcb won't run a timer,


Webasto principles are not like that.
The pcb of the heater is only taking care about the heating process. (start up, run, power down, temp sensors, circulation and fuel pump, safety parameters etc) It has to receive a signal from a controller when it needs to heat and when not. See it as a modular setup with each module taking care of its complete task.

NON bus communication
This can be any remote, timer, switch.
It are the timer, remote, etc which are having the timing module, or thermostatic, or etc etc
These simply put a +12vdc signal on the right pin as long as the heater has to run.

Bus communication
This can be the oval timer, the webasto remotes, and of course the car itself.
The bus communication between these controllers and the heating unit make that you can get info back, eg status of heater module (on/off/ heating/ventilation)

The bus communication between the heater and the car make that it will take commands from the car (eg run as engine temp is too low) and can command parts of the car (eg switch on cabin ventilator)
Therefore it needs to know the right language, so a VW unit talks different than a BMW unit.

To make it even more complex, the control units also communicate over the bus with the car bus. Eg a brand dedicated T90 remote will not send a bus signal to the heater unit to switch on but to the car’s automatic clima system. It is the clima sytem which will then (depending on inside temp) decide to send the start- signal to the webasto and control the whole cabin pre-heating (temps, ventilation,etc)
BUT this same T90 remote will receive a bus signal from the webasto unit as confirmation that it is switched on/off.


The problem with Z units is that they sometimes lack the software which will over pin (NO/NC contacts) or over bus com send the signals to switch on ventilators for cabin heating. This is because they are only intended to work as engine block heaters.

A lot of manufacturers use their own on-board systems to switch on pre-cabin heating instead of the webasto hard/software. So the onboard interface will replace the webasto timer unit. Eg the D3 dashboard interface, Mercedes menu system or command system, Audi MMI, etc (cabin heating is programmed = at set time switch on webasto, if water temp >= 45°C switch on ventilation system till cabin temp >= 21°C etc etc)

This means in some cases when using a Z unit and you want to have cabin-pre heating you will have to make your own cabin system, commanding the heater unit. If you only want engine pre-heating this is no problem of course.
Post #166110 3rd Sep 2012 10:52am
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T1G UP



Member Since: 08 Dec 2009
Location: Bath
Posts: 3101

England 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Orkney Grey
Tahnks for pointing out the pitfalls. I'm a little ahead I guess. My Z unit only requires an external 12v+ to pin 1 to run.

I am aware of the later Z thjat are can bus rteady. There's a company called danhag that make an interface for 99e that sorts this out Thumbs Up

I have already designed an drive for the internal fan, a defenders a simple machine...no climate here!

Don't get hung up on all the issues, they do not concern me on a defender.
Post #166112 3rd Sep 2012 11:14am
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dgardel



Member Since: 30 Nov 2008
Location: Veneto (Heart & Head)
Posts: 3586

Italy 
Go http://sdrv.ms/1juZzHG

Select the webasto folder........

Enjoy it Discovery 5 td6 HSE Stornoway Gray Outback Engineering Limited Edition

IID Pro MV License


Last edited by dgardel on 8th Feb 2014 6:34am. Edited 1 time in total
Post #166122 3rd Sep 2012 12:21pm
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SteveS



Member Since: 05 Oct 2010
Location: Devon & Berkshire
Posts: 388

England 2009 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Santorini Black
TIG UP - I had mine professionally fitted but for RHD vehicles particularly finding a suitable mounting location seems to be difficult for the TDCi. FWIW mine ended up on the nearside chassis rail inside face along side the gearbox/bell housing.

Other considerations for me were - location of air intake for good wading capability - this ends up in the engine compartment near the heater fan c/w a u-bend to trap air and keep water out
Post #166164 3rd Sep 2012 6:55pm
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T1G UP



Member Since: 08 Dec 2009
Location: Bath
Posts: 3101

England 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Orkney Grey
SteveS wrote:
TIG UP - I had mine professionally fitted but for RHD vehicles particularly finding a suitable mounting location seems to be difficult for the TDCi. FWIW mine ended up on the nearside chassis rail inside face along side the gearbox/bell housing.

Other considerations for me were - location of air intake for good wading capability - this ends up in the engine compartment near the heater fan c/w a u-bend to trap air and keep water out


there small units. Under the heater duct in the NS wings sems the best use of space. Either that or above the turbo like BPmans.

knocking up a test loom and rig. I'll be getting the pump on wednesday soo should have a test fire by the weekend.

The unit has a max cut off temp built in which i will be testing.
Post #166167 3rd Sep 2012 7:05pm
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cobs



Member Since: 12 Jun 2008
Location: North Yorkshire
Posts: 336

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Cairns Blue
Some details of my install here:

https://defender2.net/gallery/thumbnails.php?album=646

There's some general stuff in teh first section about the pitfalls of buying a BMW unit
Post #166278 4th Sep 2012 11:06am
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dgardel



Member Since: 30 Nov 2008
Location: Veneto (Heart & Head)
Posts: 3586

Italy 
Download my DIY Webasto manual for the Puma also

http://sdrv.ms/1cmUyK2 Discovery 5 td6 HSE Stornoway Gray Outback Engineering Limited Edition

IID Pro MV License


Last edited by dgardel on 8th Feb 2014 6:36am. Edited 1 time in total
Post #166299 4th Sep 2012 1:56pm
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bpman



Member Since: 21 May 2008
Location: Oslo
Posts: 8069

2008 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SVX Station Wagon Santorini Black
the location of cobs heater is good, behind the headlight and his install guide is spot on, I used parts of it for my install - T1G - you won't be able to fit yours above the exhaust manifold - you have a brake servo in the way Razz
Post #166375 4th Sep 2012 7:41pm
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T1G UP



Member Since: 08 Dec 2009
Location: Bath
Posts: 3101

England 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Orkney Grey
not taken it off the rover bracket yet for a trial fit.

I'll get it run up first, then i'll strip it and clean replace the consumable items.

maybe behind the headlight. got to take mine out again soon enough Whistle


Last edited by T1G UP on 10th Sep 2012 4:57pm. Edited 1 time in total
Post #166404 4th Sep 2012 9:35pm
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