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Lorryman100



Member Since: 01 Oct 2010
Location: Here
Posts: 2686

This is what I use on top of Zag's list of potions:


Click image to enlarge


http://www.brunox.co.uk/index.php/automotiveselect


Brian.

Post #120636 2nd Feb 2012 5:04pm
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scamp



Member Since: 05 Feb 2012
Location: Lincolnshire
Posts: 29

I have already ascertained that there are far more intelligent members on this forum Bow down so please treat me kindly if my question appears a little stupid. Whistle

Has anyone ever tried using a sacrificial anode to prevent / reduce electrolytic (galvanic) corrosion of the aluminium panels?

Post #123135 10th Feb 2012 10:50pm
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excossack



Member Since: 22 Feb 2012
Location: North West
Posts: 4588

United Kingdom 1999 Defender 110 Td5 SW Caledonian Blue

Interesting read, will need to have another read prior to attacking the landy.
My plan was....
Jet wash down the chassis, let it dry.
Attack with a wire cup on a grinder
Degrease and apply Jenolite and allow to cure/go off
Paint coat with Zinc 182 and when dry key the surface with a wire brush
Paint with chassis black, again allow to dry and maybe a coating of Dinitrol

Something similar for the inside of the chassis, again probably Dinitrol cavity wax. 1999 Defender TD5 110

Regards
John M0VAZ
Econet Station 48 no clock

Post #128857 5th Mar 2012 2:30pm
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Zagato
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Member Since: 08 Jan 2011
Location: Billingshurst West Sussex
Posts: 4861

United Kingdom 

Acid converting the rust is the way to go once you have got most off. If you are going to paint your chassis use POR-15, it will never need doing again and would certainly be a waste of time slapping Dinitrol on top as rust will never come through it and you won't get it off with a hammer let alone it flaking off! If you do it with chassis black you will have to do the whole lot again in 5 years time Sad

See hear http://www.frost.co.uk/automotive-rust-pro...tions.html for bits that are exposed to UV light then you will need the UV resistant POR-15 Wink

Post #128858 5th Mar 2012 2:34pm
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excossack



Member Since: 22 Feb 2012
Location: North West
Posts: 4588

United Kingdom 1999 Defender 110 Td5 SW Caledonian Blue

So I am Ok with the Jenolite Smile
Is it still a wise move to paint over with Zinc 182 and then POR15 or, skip the Zinc and go Jenolite > POR15? 1999 Defender TD5 110

Regards
John M0VAZ
Econet Station 48 no clock

Post #128923 5th Mar 2012 7:11pm
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ZeDefender



Member Since: 15 Sep 2011
Location: Munich
Posts: 4731

Germany 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SW Baltic Blue

I am now utterly rust-paranoid...

I have decided to fix my black chequerplate to the alu rivnuts in my wings using black steel M6 screws (stainless won't take black paint well and is worse with alu for bimetallic corrosion). HOWEVER before I use the screws I will first treat them entirely with Kurust (they are a bit "brownish" from new), then paint them with Hammerite and finally use Duralac for the assembly - well, not quite finally - last I will dowse the whole lot in ACF-50.

Go on then Zag - tell me what I've forgotten Laughing Tell someone you love them today because life is short.
But shout it at them in German because life is also terrifying and confusing...

Post #128929 5th Mar 2012 7:31pm
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Zagato
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Member Since: 08 Jan 2011
Location: Billingshurst West Sussex
Posts: 4861

United Kingdom 

excossack wrote:
So I am Ok with the Jenolite Smile
Is it still a wise move to paint over with Zinc 182 and then POR15 or, skip the Zinc and go Jenolite > POR15?


The call really is on how rusty the chassis is and if you think you can stop it all dead by manual abrasion and acid conversion!

To explain there are two theories on how to deal with chassis rust.

1. You can either go down the wire brush and red oxide/zinc undercoat and chassis black route which will eventually need doing again BUT you can see where it comes through and needs future attention or

2. You can do the same treatment and cover it in POR-15 and guarantee no rust will come through but you will never be able to see whats going on underneath and how bad it is rotting if it is doing so!

So it really is your call on how well you think you can kill the rust. Decent professionals will get the bad rust off and treat the surface rust with an acid converting solution then spray it with Dinitrol. The Dinitrol kit actually has an acid converting spray can in it but you may need more depending on your chassis. Sorry i can't be of more help the same conundrum happens for the inside of an older rusty chassis - some spray it with rust converting solution inside but most just use the cavity treatment.

Once the cavities have been treated it can take years for any existing rust to do any serious harm, just keep the mud out by flushing if you do a lot of wading and top up the treatments Thumbs Up

Post #128953 5th Mar 2012 8:22pm
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Zagato
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Member Since: 08 Jan 2011
Location: Billingshurst West Sussex
Posts: 4861

United Kingdom 

ZeDefender wrote:
I am now utterly rust-paranoid...

I have decided to fix my black chequerplate to the alu rivnuts in my wings using black steel M6 screws (stainless won't take black paint well and is worse with alu for bimetallic corrosion). HOWEVER before I use the screws I will first treat them entirely with Kurust (they are a bit "brownish" from new), then paint them with Hammerite and finally use Duralac for the assembly - well, not quite finally - last I will dowse the whole lot in ACF-50.

Go on then Zag - tell me what I've forgotten Laughing


It's a tricky one Matt, this is why ali rivets are a better choice when you can use them because in the first instance they are obviously made of aluminium and secondly you can put a sheath around them so that the surfaces never meet (electric wire casing with the wires stripped out for instance). Screws are more difficult but some on here have made the equivalent of rawplugs so there is less or no contact between the different metals. K9 recently put bonnet chequer plate on his and explained how he did it which may help, probably plastered it with marine Silkaflex as he gets it free Whistle Wink Thumbs Up

It's not good the screws are rusting already Sad I prefer to use sealants/gunk/sprays etc as most of the paint will peel off when you use the screw and if you are doing it wet it will be a hell of a job to get it back out again when you need to Shocked

Whatever you do i'm afraid by drilling a hole it will corrode, it's just reducing the rot with care and under chequer plate it can last decades before anything serious is seen. Less holes the better of course Bow down

Post #128961 5th Mar 2012 8:33pm
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ZeDefender



Member Since: 15 Sep 2011
Location: Munich
Posts: 4731

Germany 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SW Baltic Blue

Thanks Zag - I know there's trouble brewing Sad

I just hope if anything corrodes it will be the rivnuts. The plates came with standard rivets but TBO they were a poor design as they were "contoured" too much, so the rivets weren't long enough to grip (already the longest rivets I could find). Too late to jib out at that point with the holes drilled so rivnuts were the only option. I was sort of doomed from there really... but I'll take a couple of screws out in 6 months or so to see what's going on.

At least experiments are fun - I always enjoyed the ones I did on myself most Wink

Cheers
Matt Tell someone you love them today because life is short.
But shout it at them in German because life is also terrifying and confusing...

Post #128987 5th Mar 2012 9:06pm
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excossack



Member Since: 22 Feb 2012
Location: North West
Posts: 4588

United Kingdom 1999 Defender 110 Td5 SW Caledonian Blue

Thanks for the reply. Personally prefer to see what's going on under the paint, I would rather find out before an MOT or its too late that the chassis is rusting away and needs major work doing to it. 1999 Defender TD5 110

Regards
John M0VAZ
Econet Station 48 no clock

Post #128994 5th Mar 2012 9:11pm
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Zagato
Site Supporter


Member Since: 08 Jan 2011
Location: Billingshurst West Sussex
Posts: 4861

United Kingdom 

excossack wrote:
Thanks for the reply. Personally prefer to see what's going on under the paint, I would rather find out before an MOT or its too late that the chassis is rusting away and needs major work doing to it.


Agreed the POR-15 route is better kept for new chassis or light rusty chassis and big lumps of metal like axles, hubs etc where you only want and need to do it once Thumbs Up

Post #129003 5th Mar 2012 9:19pm
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Zagato
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Member Since: 08 Jan 2011
Location: Billingshurst West Sussex
Posts: 4861

United Kingdom 

ZeDefender wrote:

At least experiments are fun - I always enjoyed the ones I did on myself most Wink

Cheers
Matt


Laughing I have this image of Mr Hyde furiously scoffing cheese Wink

Post #129007 5th Mar 2012 9:22pm
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warren



Member Since: 14 Oct 2009
Location: East Lancs.
Posts: 902

England 2009 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 HT Santorini Black

Have to admit I've been neglecting Big Blacks underside this winter...


Click image to enlarge


Waxoyled it to death when new, blasted the chassis every week or so, then the pressure washer broke and it started to get expensive down at the petrol station feeding their machine with pound coins, so ended up going less and less and less....

Anyway, got no work on tomorrow so going to give it some TLC.

Unfortunately I'm quite a n00b at such things, and I've only got tomorrow to do it, is there any other stuff I can use that isn't Dinitrol if I can't get hold of any that will stop/cure rust spots popping up? Still got a load of Waxoyl in the garage so once I'm confident the rust spots have been sorted I'll just give the whole thing a douse in that.

Post #134281 25th Mar 2012 5:04pm
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Zagato
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Member Since: 08 Jan 2011
Location: Billingshurst West Sussex
Posts: 4861

United Kingdom 

Ideally you need to stop that rust dead with an acid rust converter. Dintrol do a spray of it as part of their kit, don't know if your local motor factors would have anything similar in spray. Spray makes it quicker and easier than brushing, as the underside will be similar. Give it a good wire brush first, using a drill/grinder with appropriate attachment makes it easier Thumbs Up

Post #134284 25th Mar 2012 5:09pm
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K9F



Member Since: 12 Nov 2009
Location: Bournemouth
Posts: 9607

United Kingdom 2008 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Stornoway Grey

Zagato wrote:
K9 recently put bonnet chequer plate on his and explained how he did it which may help, probably plastered it with marine Silkaflex as he gets it free Whistle Wink Thumbs Up:


Free is good! Thumbs Up Sikaflex 29I it's the mutts nuts.... Laughing Wet assembly is always a good idea IF you do not need to subsequently remove...

warren wrote:
is there any other stuff I can use that isn't Dinitrol if I can't get hold of any that will stop/cure rust spots popping up?


Another great product used prolifically in the marine industry where I work is a product called Fertan.....It works too.. Thumbs Up If it's good enough to treat items that have been immersed in seawater for anything up to a year it's good enough for me.

Zag, guess what? Fertan's free too! Rolling with laughter

Linky fingy....
http://www.fertan.co.uk/ If you go through life with your head in the sand....all people will see is an ar5e!!

Treat every day as if it is your last....one day you will be right!!

Post #134290 25th Mar 2012 6:01pm
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