 | Home > Maintenance & Modifications > A day in the life of Miffy the 110... |
 
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| donmacn Member Since: 07 Nov 2017 Location: Nth Scotland Posts: 1829  |
Ah - can’t quote the last post, but you know what’s coming now……
Could you post pics of your rear of cubby plug arrangement please? I’ve been researching/considering how to do precisely what you’ve described: providing plug-in points for a solar suitcase panel, and a fridge. I’d narrowed it down to the small Anderson connectors too, and have more or less decided that the best/most convenient location is going to be at the rear of the cubby. On my 300Tdi this will probably be on the passenger side, because a) it’s close to the battery box and b) that’s the side we have our awning on anyway. Though the solar plug would go to an MPPT controller, I suppose I could just add another connector for a small mains charger… hadn’t really thought of that yet. Is the longer black thing in your picture a battery charger?? (Edit - clearly not - just looked again and it’s too wee.) Donald 1994 Defender 300Tdi 110 SW - owned since 2002 - 230k miles and going strong (The 'rolling restoration' or tinkering thread: http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic58538.html ) 2000 Range Rover P38 4.0L V8 in the past.. RR classic - fitted with 200Tdi 1984 RR classic - V8 with ZF auto box 1993 Discovery 300Tdi not to mention the minis and the Type 2 VW camper... |
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23rd Nov 2022 4:49pm |
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| geobloke Member Since: 06 Nov 2012 Location: Nottinghamshire Posts: 4388 
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Hi Donald. Of course I can, but it will have to wait until the morning. Too dark now. The black thing is the CTEK quick connect socket that connects to the CTEK MXS 5 charger. To keep you going until then this is actually the double socket housing that I bought. It is a 3D printed version of the Powerwerx item. At the time I couldn't buy the Powerwerx in the UK. It is a solid bit of kit and the Powerpole connectors fit perfectly and are locked in position by a couple of grub screws. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/283644919772?ha...R5CmlNaUYQ |
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23rd Nov 2022 5:50pm |
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| donmacn Member Since: 07 Nov 2017 Location: Nth Scotland Posts: 1829 |
Thanks very much. That does give me a decent idea what it will look like - but I'll still look forward to the pics, just when you get a chance.
 Donald
1994 Defender 300Tdi 110 SW - owned since 2002 - 230k miles and going strong (The 'rolling restoration' or tinkering thread: http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic58538.html ) 2000 Range Rover P38 4.0L V8 in the past.. RR classic - fitted with 200Tdi 1984 RR classic - V8 with ZF auto box 1993 Discovery 300Tdi not to mention the minis and the Type 2 VW camper... |
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23rd Nov 2022 9:40pm |
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| geobloke Member Since: 06 Nov 2012 Location: Nottinghamshire Posts: 4388
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As promised...
This is the Dual Powerpole mounting in the back of the MSS cubby box. I have it positioned just below a standard cigarette socket and a Hella DIN to the right (out of shot). The Powerpole sockets are directly connected to the the +ve and -ve battery terminals and the other sockets are fused off that supply. To be honest I could do with tidying up that lot of wires, its a bit messy for my liking. It works though and being out of sight it has fallen down the todo list 
 Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge The CTEK MXS 5.0 charger is plugged in via one of three looms depending on the vehicle. For Miffy it is via the Powerpole connector, Phoebe (Freelander 2) via the 12S tow socket and then should the battery not be in the vehicle, croc clips. Simple and adaptable. Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Because of the VSR between the two batteries in Miffy the CTEK charges both at the same time, as with the alternator. |
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24th Nov 2022 11:24am |
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| donmacn Member Since: 07 Nov 2017 Location: Nth Scotland Posts: 1829 |
Thanks very much - that's all really clear.
Excuse me posting pics of my car in Miffy's thread  but it's easier to explain, and maybe get opinions.
I have various switches in a panel on top/front of my cubby to control accessories (heated seats & windscreen, roof and A bar lighting etc): Click image to enlarge The wiring for this comes from the electrical installation in the passenger-side battery box; through a grommet to the transmission side, and then through another grommet up into the sub-woofer box. Click image to enlarge Very neat, but for servicing purposes it does need additional plugs/connectors in the wiring. The little grouping of white & black plugs in the pic above go through holes in the woofer lid and the bottom of the cubby. Click image to enlarge However, if I wanted an Anderson/powerpole connector for the solar panels and fridge, I don't think I would want to wire them the same way as this because 1) additional connectors = more resistance, which I think is particularly an issue for the solar supply and 2) I'd need to make the wiring holes even bigger to accommodate another two plugs. So I think I'll maybe do something like putting a simple flexi conduit from the battery box up the outside of the cubby and I'll maybe fabricate a wee box to take two or three of the powerpole connectors. Something like that.... but that powerpole plug housing is food for thought - thanks again. Donald 1994 Defender 300Tdi 110 SW - owned since 2002 - 230k miles and going strong (The 'rolling restoration' or tinkering thread: http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic58538.html ) 2000 Range Rover P38 4.0L V8 in the past.. RR classic - fitted with 200Tdi 1984 RR classic - V8 with ZF auto box 1993 Discovery 300Tdi not to mention the minis and the Type 2 VW camper... |
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24th Nov 2022 12:58pm |
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| geobloke Member Since: 06 Nov 2012 Location: Nottinghamshire Posts: 4388
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A few little jobs today getting ready for Winter. The most important for family comfort was the rewiring of the heated seats to the "warm Bum Button". Love the smell of shoulder in the morning...
Click image to enlarge Then for curiosity sake I remember adding door seals to the bonnet of my old Defender to keep a little more of the limited heat under the bonnet. It worked well in association with a door mat radiator muff. So, first step is to stick some D section seals to the underneath of the bonnet. Wipe down with meths then stick the seal in place. Fits well and really does block up the canyon gap between the bonnet and wingtop. Time will tell if it was worth it, but for now there is definitely less engine noise. Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Next step... MOT... |
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26th Nov 2022 5:40pm |
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| geobloke Member Since: 06 Nov 2012 Location: Nottinghamshire Posts: 4388
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No problem at all hijacking the thread. I see what you are doing. Lovely setup. Which under cubby box is that? I have often thought about one under the MSS. So it looks like there is enough space between the cubby and the passenger seat. How about a waterproof gland and a direct to battery power coupling that points out in to the second row seats? A double power pole mount within something like this pod mount would work and keep it entirely separate from the other wiring. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/303462809271?ha...R9rzzc2WYQ This way it would keep the high voltage separate from the audio wiring etc. The pod could be mounted over the gland to hide it. Should be a neat setup. The only downside (for some folks) would be the need to drill a hole between the seat and matting. It might be that there is a blanked off bolt hole from the centre seat you could use. The other alternative would be to mount the pod to the side of the cubby box or under box. Also, there are other power pole mounts available that are different shapes that might suit your needs better than the round one. [/url] |
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26th Nov 2022 6:05pm |
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| donmacn Member Since: 07 Nov 2017 Location: Nth Scotland Posts: 1829 |
Thanks
It's a Mudstuff subwoofer box. https://www.mudstuff.co.uk/products/mud-sub-locker Have to say I've been pretty happy with it. I did think about going straight through into the 2nd row floor panel, but I'm going to need to put some sort of false floor in there to level it up for the fridge, which would make it inaccessible. So, I think mounting something to the side of the cubby is the way to go. I'd got myself confused between my powerpoles and my SB50s... Without going into all the details I need connectors that will take 4-6mm2 cable for at least one circuit, so I'm just going to go with SB50s for all three - accessory, solar input, fridge. Because I'm in no great rush, and will be taking the car off the road for some drivetrain work, I can wait for these to arrive from Aus. 1 double, one single. They look neat enough and strong enough to me. https://www.etsy.com/uk/listing/764300601/...e_active_1 I will drill a hole between seat and cubby and route the cables up the side of the cubby, then fit these covers/sockets in that space between passenger seat and cubby box. The SB50s will all be different colours for idiot proofing. I've never really minded drilling holes for something functional like this. It's a "working" vehicle in that regard. Health, pandemics and world peace permitting, next year will be the Pyrenees and France again; then Norway/Sweden; then Portugal, then ...who knows. So 4 or 5 years of functionality trumps a wee hole in the seatbox that can always be plugged anyway. Donald 1994 Defender 300Tdi 110 SW - owned since 2002 - 230k miles and going strong (The 'rolling restoration' or tinkering thread: http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic58538.html ) 2000 Range Rover P38 4.0L V8 in the past.. RR classic - fitted with 200Tdi 1984 RR classic - V8 with ZF auto box 1993 Discovery 300Tdi not to mention the minis and the Type 2 VW camper... |
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26th Nov 2022 7:27pm |
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| geobloke Member Since: 06 Nov 2012 Location: Nottinghamshire Posts: 4388
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Congrats to Myfanwy (aka Miffy) for passing her MOT with flying colours on her twentieth year
Click image to enlarge Just an advisory on the drivers seat belt that has got a little damaged being shut in the door lock So those are next on the list to replace. After 20 years A new pair of seat belts is the leat she deserves. |
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5th Dec 2022 3:26pm |
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| geobloke Member Since: 06 Nov 2012 Location: Nottinghamshire Posts: 4388
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Soooooo.... Made a wiring faux-pas when wiring in the heated seats... Wired them in series rather than parallel so they were only getting half the volts and it is too cold for half the warmth 20 minutes later, all wired in parallel and Ooooooo the comfort...
The other two things I noticed were that the door seal around the bonnet really does keep the heat inside the engine. Still warm hours after a short trip out. The second thing is that Prestone screen washer is the most horrendous smelling radioactive looking fluid I have ever used... Horrid stuff... :rolleyes: |
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6th Dec 2022 4:57pm |
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| geobloke Member Since: 06 Nov 2012 Location: Nottinghamshire Posts: 4388
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So back when the UK became an icicle before Christmas Miffy had -15 to -20 degC washer fluid in her bottle, well it froze solid. When the block of ice began to defrost it also resuspended the detritus sitting at the bottom of the washer bottle. In the usual desperation to clear the road dirt off the windscreen this detritus was sucked up in to the washer nozzles... Blocked... Well actually dribbles.
Not wanting to dismantle something only to need a replacement gasket I gave Optimill an email and they replied that I should just unscrew the cap and clean any detritus out. Well today was that day as it is the first day in weeks it hasn't been raining. To do this you need a 2.5mm allen key and a cloth to clean the jet with. Undo the three screws. Give the logo'd cap a tap and off it comes. Clean out the inside being careful not to dislodge the rubber seal. Press the windscreen washer button a press to clear the lines. Refit is the reverse of dismantling. Test. Six lovely jets of fluid. Job done. Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge You can see how little detritus is needed to block the nozzles, but it is incredibly easy to clean out. Plus that pump is massively powerful, it easily shoots a stream of washer fluid 5 metres across the driveway 
Love this washer. Excellent modification for a Defender |
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16th Jan 2023 5:21pm |
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| donmacn Member Since: 07 Nov 2017 Location: Nth Scotland Posts: 1829 |
Excellent! Really useful post if you have one of these, as I do. As you say, such tiny amounts of stuff to cause the problem.
Is it just me, or is there something vaguely obscene/disturbing about pic #5...? Donald 1994 Defender 300Tdi 110 SW - owned since 2002 - 230k miles and going strong (The 'rolling restoration' or tinkering thread: http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic58538.html ) 2000 Range Rover P38 4.0L V8 in the past.. RR classic - fitted with 200Tdi 1984 RR classic - V8 with ZF auto box 1993 Discovery 300Tdi not to mention the minis and the Type 2 VW camper... |
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16th Jan 2023 5:24pm |
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| geobloke Member Since: 06 Nov 2012 Location: Nottinghamshire Posts: 4388
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You're welcome Donald As for picture #5 you should have seen the look from the farmer that past as Miffy discharged the torrent of green... It'll be a topic of conversation in the tearoom tomorrow |
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16th Jan 2023 5:32pm |
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| geobloke Member Since: 06 Nov 2012 Location: Nottinghamshire Posts: 4388
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I spy with my little eye...
Click image to enlarge |
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16th Jan 2023 7:53pm |
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| geobloke Member Since: 06 Nov 2012 Location: Nottinghamshire Posts: 4388
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Took the ol' girl and dogs up a hill for a snow drive/walk... Stunning evening with the showers of snow passing across the countryside.
Click image to enlarge It was an absolutely beautiful drive to the top of the Wayfarer in the ice and snow. Completely different drive to the Freelander 2 being very relaxed with a low RPM diesel backing track and the obvious difference is the lower gearing in the transfer box... Second Low on you go. There was only one bit of ice related slippage which was utterly my failure. Make a note people... If you are parking a Defender, Series or Discovery 1 on a hilly icy road pop it in to diff lock first. If you do not the open rear diff means you will quickly find your pride and joy sliding down the road... If you do find yourself in this situation you will notice that one wheel remains still whilst sliding and the opposite wheel will be rotating like the front wheels  Diff lock engaged and this problem is resolved as the front wheels are locked in to the transmission brake as well. No more slippy slippy...
Driving last night made me remember just how impressive the BFG KO2 tyres are in the ice and snow. Apart from the above which was utterly my fault there was never a moment where I felt the tyres were going to let go. I honestly do not think I will ever buy another set of tyres that do not have the 3 peaks rating and these tyres are slightly more than half worn too. Incidentally there is no TC or ABS on Miffy... 100% Driver talent required :rofl:
Looping back to the low RPM diesel, the other thing that occurred to me on the way up the track is that perhaps the modern fascination with more and more powerful engines has had the effect of lowering the off road skill level, the "if in doubt power it out" mentality that makes good Youtube viewing. I wonder what the rest of you think. The other thing that peaked my interest last night was the juxtaposition of treading lightly off road and the current offerings of electric 4x4s... The new Hummer is 9000lbs without people, gear and accessories. 9000lbs on tyres with a contact patch not much more than the area of your palm. That's 4 metric tons... That is almost twice the weight of an Old or New Defender 110... I am sure the electronics that control the braking systems are top notch, but that it still twice the weight stopping on a similar contact patch as a much lighter vehicle and you know how well even a petrol powered pickup slides on icy highways at speed. Adding 100% more weight turns a pickup shaped battering ram in to a fully laden goods train, ten pin bowling, traffic destroying, death box... Can you imagine being hit by 9000lbs travelling at 60mph.... Good lord, that on even the most simple slippery slope is going to have to work so hard to get to the top and with the incredible torque delivered by the electric motors is surely going to spin tyres even at the sight of a muddy track. Of course the partial solution is to add BIGGER more aggressive tyres and diff locks all around, but still eventually its weight will be its greatest enemy. That is of course if the battery lasts long enough to go far from a charging station or the computer allows you to engage the 4x4 system or raise the vehicle on its air suspension. I am not a technophobe by any stretch of the imagination I just fail to see how doubling the weight of an off-road vehicle (any vehicle on the road coming to think about it) is anything but a terrible and ultimately dangerous idea. Especially when you can just go and pick one up before filtering in to traffic without any additional driver training... I think I will be keeping a Defender for quite some time to come. |
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18th Jan 2023 2:13pm |
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