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donmacn



Member Since: 06 Nov 2017
Location: Nth Scotland
Posts: 1644

Ah - can’t quote the last post, but you know what’s coming now…… Very Happy

Could you post pics of your rear of cubby plug arrangement please?

I’ve been researching/considering how to do precisely what you’ve described: providing plug-in points for a solar suitcase panel, and a fridge. I’d narrowed it down to the small Anderson connectors too, and have more or less decided that the best/most convenient location is going to be at the rear of the cubby.

On my 300Tdi this will probably be on the passenger side, because a) it’s close to the battery box and b) that’s the side we have our awning on anyway.

Though the solar plug would go to an MPPT controller, I suppose I could just add another connector for a small mains charger… hadn’t really thought of that yet.

Is the longer black thing in your picture a battery charger?? (Edit - clearly not - just looked again and it’s too wee.) Donald

1994 Defender 300Tdi 110 SW - owned since 2002 - 230k miles and going strong
(The 'rolling restoration' or tinkering thread: http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic58538.html )
2000 Range Rover P38 4.0L V8

in the past..
RR classic - fitted with 200Tdi
1984 RR classic - V8 with ZF auto box
1993 Discovery 300Tdi

not to mention the minis and the Type 2 VW camper...
Post #972156 23rd Nov 2022 3:49pm
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geobloke



Member Since: 06 Nov 2012
Location: North Wales, UK
Posts: 2721

United Kingdom 
Quote:

Ah - can’t quote the last post, but you know what’s coming now…… Very Happy

Could you post pics of your rear of cubby plug arrangement please?

I’ve been researching/considering how to do precisely what you’ve described: providing plug-in points for a solar suitcase panel, and a fridge. I’d narrowed it down to the small Anderson connectors too, and have more or less decided that the best/most convenient location is going to be at the rear of the cubby.

On my 300Tdi this will probably be on the passenger side, because a) it’s close to the battery box and b) that’s the side we have our awning on anyway.

Though the solar plug would go to an MPPT controller, I suppose I could just add another connector for a small mains charger… hadn’t really thought of that yet.

Is the longer black thing in your picture a battery charger?? (Edit - clearly not - just looked again and it’s too wee.)


Hi Donald. Of course I can, but it will have to wait until the morning. Too dark now.

The black thing is the CTEK quick connect socket that connects to the CTEK MXS 5 charger.

To keep you going until then this is actually the double socket housing that I bought. It is a 3D printed version of the Powerwerx item. At the time I couldn't buy the Powerwerx in the UK. It is a solid bit of kit and the Powerpole connectors fit perfectly and are locked in position by a couple of grub screws.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/283644919772?ha...R5CmlNaUYQ
Post #972161 23rd Nov 2022 4:50pm
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donmacn



Member Since: 06 Nov 2017
Location: Nth Scotland
Posts: 1644

Thanks very much. That does give me a decent idea what it will look like - but I'll still look forward to the pics, just when you get a chance. Thumbs Up Donald

1994 Defender 300Tdi 110 SW - owned since 2002 - 230k miles and going strong
(The 'rolling restoration' or tinkering thread: http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic58538.html )
2000 Range Rover P38 4.0L V8

in the past..
RR classic - fitted with 200Tdi
1984 RR classic - V8 with ZF auto box
1993 Discovery 300Tdi

not to mention the minis and the Type 2 VW camper...
Post #972186 23rd Nov 2022 8:40pm
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geobloke



Member Since: 06 Nov 2012
Location: North Wales, UK
Posts: 2721

United Kingdom 
CTEK Charger, adapters and Powerpole connectors
As promised...

This is the Dual Powerpole mounting in the back of the MSS cubby box. I have it positioned just below a standard cigarette socket and a Hella DIN to the right (out of shot). The Powerpole sockets are directly connected to the the +ve and -ve battery terminals and the other sockets are fused off that supply. To be honest I could do with tidying up that lot of wires, its a bit messy for my liking. It works though and being out of sight it has fallen down the todo list Rolling Eyes


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The CTEK MXS 5.0 charger is plugged in via one of three looms depending on the vehicle. For Miffy it is via the Powerpole connector, Phoebe (Freelander 2) via the 12S tow socket and then should the battery not be in the vehicle, croc clips. Simple and adaptable.


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Because of the VSR between the two batteries in Miffy the CTEK charges both at the same time, as with the alternator.
Post #972210 24th Nov 2022 10:24am
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donmacn



Member Since: 06 Nov 2017
Location: Nth Scotland
Posts: 1644

Thanks very much - that's all really clear.

Excuse me posting pics of my car in Miffy's thread Shocked but it's easier to explain, and maybe get opinions.

I have various switches in a panel on top/front of my cubby to control accessories (heated seats & windscreen, roof and A bar lighting etc):


Click image to enlarge


The wiring for this comes from the electrical installation in the passenger-side battery box; through a grommet to the transmission side, and then through another grommet up into the sub-woofer box.


Click image to enlarge


Very neat, but for servicing purposes it does need additional plugs/connectors in the wiring. The little grouping of white & black plugs in the pic above go through holes in the woofer lid and the bottom of the cubby.


Click image to enlarge


However, if I wanted an Anderson/powerpole connector for the solar panels and fridge, I don't think I would want to wire them the same way as this because 1) additional connectors = more resistance, which I think is particularly an issue for the solar supply and 2) I'd need to make the wiring holes even bigger to accommodate another two plugs.

So I think I'll maybe do something like putting a simple flexi conduit from the battery box up the outside of the cubby and I'll maybe fabricate a wee box to take two or three of the powerpole connectors. Something like that.... but that powerpole plug housing is food for thought - thanks again. Donald

1994 Defender 300Tdi 110 SW - owned since 2002 - 230k miles and going strong
(The 'rolling restoration' or tinkering thread: http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic58538.html )
2000 Range Rover P38 4.0L V8

in the past..
RR classic - fitted with 200Tdi
1984 RR classic - V8 with ZF auto box
1993 Discovery 300Tdi

not to mention the minis and the Type 2 VW camper...
Post #972221 24th Nov 2022 11:58am
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geobloke



Member Since: 06 Nov 2012
Location: North Wales, UK
Posts: 2721

United Kingdom 
A few little jobs today getting ready for Winter. The most important for family comfort was the rewiring of the heated seats to the "warm Bum Button". Love the smell of shoulder in the morning... Wink


Click image to enlarge


Then for curiosity sake I remember adding door seals to the bonnet of my old Defender to keep a little more of the limited heat under the bonnet. It worked well in association with a door mat radiator muff. So, first step is to stick some D section seals to the underneath of the bonnet. Wipe down with meths then stick the seal in place. Fits well and really does block up the canyon gap between the bonnet and wingtop. Time will tell if it was worth it, but for now there is definitely less engine noise.


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Next step...

MOT...
Post #972471 26th Nov 2022 4:40pm
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geobloke



Member Since: 06 Nov 2012
Location: North Wales, UK
Posts: 2721

United Kingdom 
donmacn wrote:
Thanks very much - that's all really clear.

Excuse me posting pics of my car in Miffy's thread Shocked but it's easier to explain, and maybe get opinions.

However, if I wanted an Anderson/powerpole connector for the solar panels and fridge, I don't think I would want to wire them the same way as this because 1) additional connectors = more resistance, which I think is particularly an issue for the solar supply and 2) I'd need to make the wiring holes even bigger to accommodate another two plugs.

So I think I'll maybe do something like putting a simple flexi conduit from the battery box up the outside of the cubby and I'll maybe fabricate a wee box to take two or three of the powerpole connectors. Something like that.... but that powerpole plug housing is food for thought - thanks again.


No problem at all hijacking the thread. I see what you are doing. Lovely setup. Which under cubby box is that? I have often thought about one under the MSS.

So it looks like there is enough space between the cubby and the passenger seat. How about a waterproof gland and a direct to battery power coupling that points out in to the second row seats?

A double power pole mount within something like this pod mount would work and keep it entirely separate from the other wiring.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/303462809271?ha...R9rzzc2WYQ

This way it would keep the high voltage separate from the audio wiring etc. The pod could be mounted over the gland to hide it. Should be a neat setup. The only downside (for some folks) would be the need to drill a hole between the seat and matting. It might be that there is a blanked off bolt hole from the centre seat you could use.

The other alternative would be to mount the pod to the side of the cubby box or under box.

Also, there are other power pole mounts available that are different shapes that might suit your needs better than the round one. [/url]
Post #972478 26th Nov 2022 5:05pm
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donmacn



Member Since: 06 Nov 2017
Location: Nth Scotland
Posts: 1644

Thanks Thumbs Up

It's a Mudstuff subwoofer box. https://www.mudstuff.co.uk/products/mud-sub-locker Have to say I've been pretty happy with it.

I did think about going straight through into the 2nd row floor panel, but I'm going to need to put some sort of false floor in there to level it up for the fridge, which would make it inaccessible.

So, I think mounting something to the side of the cubby is the way to go. I'd got myself confused between my powerpoles and my SB50s... Without going into all the details I need connectors that will take 4-6mm2 cable for at least one circuit, so I'm just going to go with SB50s for all three - accessory, solar input, fridge. Because I'm in no great rush, and will be taking the car off the road for some drivetrain work, I can wait for these to arrive from Aus. 1 double, one single. They look neat enough and strong enough to me. https://www.etsy.com/uk/listing/764300601/...e_active_1

I will drill a hole between seat and cubby and route the cables up the side of the cubby, then fit these covers/sockets in that space between passenger seat and cubby box. The SB50s will all be different colours for idiot proofing.

I've never really minded drilling holes for something functional like this. It's a "working" vehicle in that regard. Health, pandemics and world peace permitting, next year will be the Pyrenees and France again; then Norway/Sweden; then Portugal, then ...who knows. So 4 or 5 years of functionality trumps a wee hole in the seatbox that can always be plugged anyway. Donald

1994 Defender 300Tdi 110 SW - owned since 2002 - 230k miles and going strong
(The 'rolling restoration' or tinkering thread: http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic58538.html )
2000 Range Rover P38 4.0L V8

in the past..
RR classic - fitted with 200Tdi
1984 RR classic - V8 with ZF auto box
1993 Discovery 300Tdi

not to mention the minis and the Type 2 VW camper...
Post #972491 26th Nov 2022 6:27pm
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