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| dunc Member Since: 31 Dec 2015 Location: surrey Posts: 132   
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Hi Chris
Great chatting tonight re corrosion prevention. I can't PM you - please can you PM me or text me your email address. Duncan |
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5th Jan 2016 10:12pm |
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| mcma1 Member Since: 16 Oct 2012 Location: Northern Ireland Posts: 2877 |
Just ordered my Dinitrol kit from Flatdog...really looking forward to getting it all neat and tidy underneath. Andy
2014 Fuji 110 SW LS3 https://www.defender2.net/forum/post751233.html#751233 2014 Corris 110 SW http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic40056.html My old Xtech 90 build.. http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic15681.html LS3 V8 build... http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic49051.html |
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14th Jan 2016 12:34pm |
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It's no longer black underneath.
| adm2243 Member Since: 14 Jun 2015 Location: Mid Wales Posts: 17  
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Hi Chris
Just want to say thank you for the great job that you did treating my 110 and taking the time to chat through the treatment options  |
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14th Jan 2016 6:37pm |
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| Zagato Site Supporter Member Since: 08 Jan 2011 Location: Billingshurst West Sussex Posts: 4992
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Nice to meet you
 Don't forget to take your Series out for fun every now and then now you have your new Defender, it will get very jealous  |
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14th Jan 2016 8:25pm |
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| Zagato Site Supporter Member Since: 08 Jan 2011 Location: Billingshurst West Sussex Posts: 4992
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ACF-50 Corrosion Block the pasty stuff in a tub used mostly in the marine industry will wash off if you do it thoroughly as it tends to remain pastey and not to dry so much but the liquid ACF-50 spray in the Aerosol or pump (Don,t get the pump it,s next to useless although cheaper, you need the aerosol with extension piece!) kind of sticks on and can get quite sticky initially the more layers you put on. One spray and wipe over for the rear crossmember is fine, it gives a nice gloss finish and doesn,t leave it sticky to get on your trousers. You would need to work at it to wash it off! If you get any over spray or drips wipe them off the day it happens otherwise it can take some washing, rubbing, polishing to get it off the next day! The majority of places you use it under cappings, bulkhead hinge, door hinges etc won,t be effected by washing but the rivets on a 110 could do with a quick touch up, you won,t wash the inside out but the surface could do with another dab after a wash and polish. Once ACF-50 is on it works for 8 months they claim but I recommend doing most parts at least twice a year and more regularly other parts like hinges, rivets, rear crossmember etc. It only takes a minute to spray or brush on every now and then. |
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14th Jan 2016 8:43pm |
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| mcma1 Member Since: 16 Oct 2012 Location: Northern Ireland Posts: 2877 |
I would be annoyed too RRUK about the staining... You put real effort and ££ into your truck, they all look great after the treatment. Is this normal then?? I will be doing mine at my mates garage shortly but want to have as much info and advice gather up. Andy
2014 Fuji 110 SW LS3 https://www.defender2.net/forum/post751233.html#751233 2014 Corris 110 SW http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic40056.html My old Xtech 90 build.. http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic15681.html LS3 V8 build... http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic49051.html |
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15th Jan 2016 10:15am |
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| miker Member Since: 13 Sep 2015 Location: Surrey Posts: 1760 
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I am in the process of pulling my engine out to replace it after it had a timing chain snap. I'm thinking it would be worth my while going over the exposed chassis metal while I have the access.
I had planned to buy the dinitrol aerosol kit anyway, but which bits should I use in the engine bay area on chassis legs and mounts? Will be cleaning up the bulkhead and general bay so far as I can too. Might also go at the inside of the wings! |
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18th Jan 2016 1:09am |
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| Zagato Site Supporter Member Since: 08 Jan 2011 Location: Billingshurst West Sussex Posts: 4992
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"exposed chassis metal" "which bits should you use" for the latter, presume you are asking wether to use cavity or underbody wax. If you have bare metal I would personally paint it, eg POR 15 primer and top coat or any chassis black or any suitable paint you have knocking about then put underbody wax 4941 on top if the rest is going to be done.
Cavity Wax 3125 for cavities, as runnier and stickier Underbody Wax 4941 for outside, harder stuff Don,t forget to do your cappings, bulkhead hinge, etc etc with ACF-50 as they have bare metal surfaces, equally important as chassis! Can use ACF-50 also for any areas you want to keep smart that you don't want to be plastered in Dinitrol, under bonnet areas, brackets, bulkhead top etc |
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18th Jan 2016 10:42am |
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| miker Member Since: 13 Sep 2015 Location: Surrey Posts: 1760
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When I say exposed, I mean without an engine in the way! My plan was to get rid of the loose original paint and surface rust then go over with whatever product is best. I'll get a can of por15 as well as a dinitrol kit in that case!!
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18th Jan 2016 11:08am |
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| miker Member Since: 13 Sep 2015 Location: Surrey Posts: 1760
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As I'll be ordering from rejel anyway, is this any good?
http://www.rejel.com/rejel-store/mio-chass...io-25.aspx Colour's not an issue as I'll be going over it with black wax anyway! Cheers for the advice! |
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18th Jan 2016 7:56pm |
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| mcma1 Member Since: 16 Oct 2012 Location: Northern Ireland Posts: 2877 |
Check list:
This is what i currently have: 4 Dinitrol Cavity Wax 8 Dinitrol Surface Wax Tin of Dinitrol Surface cleaner ACF-50 Is there anything else i need, have i got enough?? Its for a 110. I am also planning to upgrade my suspension, anti roll bars, with the twisted progressive kit so thinking it would make more sense to get this all done and then fit the new kit... would it then be better to drop the old suspension parts being replaced out before we start? Treat any loose parts we can off the truck??  Click image to enlarge Admin note: this post has had its images recovered from a money grabbing photo hosting site and reinstated  Andy
2014 Fuji 110 SW LS3 https://www.defender2.net/forum/post751233.html#751233 2014 Corris 110 SW http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic40056.html My old Xtech 90 build.. http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic15681.html LS3 V8 build... http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic49051.html |
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18th Jan 2016 8:21pm |
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| DevonLass Member Since: 24 Jan 2016 Location: Paignton Posts: 3  
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I'd be really interested to know how you got on with this @mcma1 - I'm considering a DIY job on my 90.
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24th Jan 2016 6:30pm |
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| Zagato Site Supporter Member Since: 08 Jan 2011 Location: Billingshurst West Sussex Posts: 4992
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Don,t forget the Dinitrol convorust rc900 rust convertor or equivalent for a compressor. Even new Defender chassis have rust mainly on the weld seams, needs to be done before you put the wax on otherwise you are just sealing in rust!
ACF-50 is for the body especially for bare metal bits under cappings, bulkhead hinge etc DON'T put it on the chassis apart from rear crossmember as it is petroleum based and Dinitrol is solvent based and your Dinitrol won,t go properly or harden! Also Don't forget to seal your windows etc as per the Land Rover water ingress guide, water sitting behind your window seals can rot holes through in under 5 years I have seen. Good luck |
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25th Jan 2016 8:33am |
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| RichLech Member Since: 09 Nov 2015 Location: West Sussex Posts: 115 
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As the title says I am planning to Dinitrol my recently acquired 90. I've read through this amazingly helpful topic but I do still have a couple of questions........
Regarding the application, how temperature sensitive is Dinitrol ? In the past I have used Waxoyl and struggled to apply in anything but warm weather. Does Dinitrol go on OK in the sort of warmish winter weather we are currently experiencing? I note the kits from Rejel contain Stone Chip and Underbody Wax. What is the advantage of Stone Chip over Underbody Wax. I note the Stone Chip does not "self-heal" so isn't the Underbody Wax better? Any advice much appreciated. |
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26th Jan 2016 9:41pm |
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