 | Home > Maintenance & Modifications > A day in the life of Miffy the 110... |
 
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| geobloke Member Since: 06 Nov 2012 Location: Nottinghamshire Posts: 4393  
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Today Miffy's brake overhaul continued and whilst waiting for the calipers to arrive I straightened the new and coiled brake pipes.
For anyone wanting to do this task in a DIY fashion then this is how I did it. Length of 2" x 4" - Best sort is that leftover from some other DIY project and has been sitting in the shed for months to years... Cut a bit off the end and place on top of the remainder 4" parallel to the worktop. Clamp it down with "quick" clamps. Drill a 4.8mm hole between the two pieces of wood, along the joint plane. Unclamp, fit a coiled length of brake pipe inside and re-clamp the top piece of wood in place. Pull the brake pipe through the wood block to straighten. Return the pipe through the block to tweak the straightness. Job done, repeat as necessary. 
 Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge In preparation for fitting to the vehicle tape up the ends so no dirt can get in to the lines whilst they are being routed in to place. Really wish I had a vehicle lift to do this job but hey, it is worth the effort and it will sort out the MOT advisory and give Miffy another 20 something years of braking excellence.  |
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23rd Apr 2022 4:00pm |
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| donmacn Member Since: 07 Nov 2017 Location: Nth Scotland Posts: 1829 |
^^ Nice work. The blocks of wood seem to have worked pretty well. I 'splashed out' on a wee straightening tool..
Shame about the calipers leaking, and it's only when you've "finished" that you can know that. I find brake work, eventually, rewarding in the sense that once it's done, and all bedded in, you can appreciate what proper stopping power you have. Donald 1994 Defender 300Tdi 110 SW - owned since 2002 - 230k miles and going strong (The 'rolling restoration' or tinkering thread: http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic58538.html ) 2000 Range Rover P38 4.0L V8 in the past.. RR classic - fitted with 200Tdi 1984 RR classic - V8 with ZF auto box 1993 Discovery 300Tdi not to mention the minis and the Type 2 VW camper... |
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23rd Apr 2022 4:09pm |
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| geobloke Member Since: 06 Nov 2012 Location: Nottinghamshire Posts: 4393
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Job 1:
We have heat... and just in time for summer  Drained the coolant, fitted the new thermostat, refilled the coolant and bled. We have heat. Took the ol'girl for a drive and she maintained a good 80-84 degC which equates to a lovely toasty cabin
Job 2: This actually began last week when four new calipers arrived. In an attempt to prolong the life of the calipers I decided to paint them. I didn't choose the colour But hey they are now painted and fitted.
A note on painting calipers. It takes a long long long time to do it well and for the paint to harden. This can not be rushed and do not expect a uniform flat glossy finish like you see in the product photos. It can be close and I think I got most of the way to it but not 100% beautiful. Colourful though. So Miffy has had a new servo, brake MC, 60% of the pipes, fluid, calipers and pads. Blimey  She stops and she stops rapidly. Almost as quickly as the Freelander 2 does. I suspect that once I have bled the brakes once more the braking efficiency will be right back to what it was when she rolled out of the factory.
Job 3: Wheel rotation completed whilst all the brakes were being changed. Lovely even wear on all the tyres Next job on the list is to repaint the Boost alloys as they are looking quite scabby now.
Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge |
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4th May 2022 2:30pm |
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| donmacn Member Since: 07 Nov 2017 Location: Nth Scotland Posts: 1829 |
Calipers look fine in the photos - and to be honest, who's going to get any closer than that! I've never felt the need to paint them, but not keen on the rust either.
It's really good when you get a solid pedal though, and you feel that the car has some real stopping power. What I wanted to ask though was whether your tyres are 265s or 235s? I've gone back 2 or 3 pages in the thread and can't find a pic that makes it easy to tell. Why? If they were 265s I was going to ask how you get on with 265s and spacers? How far out do they sit? I'm guessing they are 235s.... but just curious. I have a set of spacers I've not got round to fitting yet, but the 'to do' list is getting shorter, so maybe their time is coming. Donald 1994 Defender 300Tdi 110 SW - owned since 2002 - 230k miles and going strong (The 'rolling restoration' or tinkering thread: http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic58538.html ) 2000 Range Rover P38 4.0L V8 in the past.. RR classic - fitted with 200Tdi 1984 RR classic - V8 with ZF auto box 1993 Discovery 300Tdi not to mention the minis and the Type 2 VW camper... |
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4th May 2022 2:48pm |
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| geobloke Member Since: 06 Nov 2012 Location: Nottinghamshire Posts: 4393
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Thanks Don. They are growing on me. As I said the colour choice was out of my hands  The only reason to paint them in my mind is to hide the inevitable look of corroded calipers. Perhaps if they age well then the next time it will only be the fitting of new pistons and seals
As for the tyres. They are 285/75/16 BFG KO2s and whilst the tyre is a superb tyre I hate the width of the tyres. I really wanted the BFG in 255/85/16 but we all know they do not come in that size. Controversial as it may be, when I need new tyres and in the absence of a decent 255/85 AT option, I will be going back to either 265/75/16 or more than likely the original 235/85/16. The 235/85/16 tyres sit nicely inside the arches and the gearing of a laden 110 is great. Going up to 267/75/16 you actually lose a little in tyre height (negligible though) and increase tyre width. You also lose a little on turning circle through rubbing on the radius arms and having to adjust the steering stops. With increased tyre width you also lose cornering sharpness, but gain a little on tyre to road footprint. Now upping to 285/75/16 you gain a little ground clearance and footprint, but lose more on cornering and turning circle further. Additionally, you absolutely have to fit spacers (assuming fitment on Boost alloys) to improve turning circle but more importantly to space out the rear tyres from the spring mounts on a 110 or 130. They do rub quite a bit on articulation. But... the biggest reasons not to fit 285s on a daily driver is it is impossible to keep the sides of the Defender clean, plus the additional strain on the engine, transmission, steering and fuel consumption in my opinion is not worth the above gains for a daily driver. When I went from 235 to 265 I did fit 30mm spacers for the reasons of wider stance and improved turning circle whilst off road and towing. The downside was dirt flung up the side of the vehicle, but it did "look" more purposeful. If you fit spacers with 235s the tyres sit comfortably within the limit of the wheel arches but expect more dirt flung up the side of the vehicle. It should be said that I have run spacers for many many years and the notion of them destroying wheel bearings has not occurred even the slightest bit. After many 10s of 1000s of miles they are still as good as they ever have been. The big question is, when I go back to 235/85/16s will I fit spacers... Maybe... Whilst not necessary for 235s the stance is good the improvement to turning circle is appreciated. When/if you fit the spacers make sure the mating surfaces are clean and flat, and the original threads are de-greased and use some lock-tite on the spacer nuts. Hope that helps  |
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5th May 2022 9:34am |
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| donmacn Member Since: 07 Nov 2017 Location: Nth Scotland Posts: 1829 |
Thanks guys,
Yeah, don't want to hijack this and turn it into (another) tyre size or spacer debate! To clarify my post above. I have 265/75/16s BFG A/Ts on my car, on Boosts. I've been running this size and tyre for near 20 years, but as you say, the issue of the turning circle is just annoying me more and more. Just like yourself Geobloke, in the absence of a viable 255/85 AT, my next tyres will probably be 235/85s - but I can't afford to waste the life that's left on my 265s. I've been concerned that the spacers would push the sides of the 265s too far out, but if they're OK with 285s then I've no worries! If you get a moment, and could take a photo which shows the 285s vis the wheel arches, that would be useful. Ta. If I do fit the spacers, then I think I'd be tempted to leave them on, even with 235s. I can't see any downside to a better turning circle, and a wee bit extra spray on the sides of the car isn't a great concern to me. Muddy play days aren't a big thing with me. Donald 1994 Defender 300Tdi 110 SW - owned since 2002 - 230k miles and going strong (The 'rolling restoration' or tinkering thread: http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic58538.html ) 2000 Range Rover P38 4.0L V8 in the past.. RR classic - fitted with 200Tdi 1984 RR classic - V8 with ZF auto box 1993 Discovery 300Tdi not to mention the minis and the Type 2 VW camper... |
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5th May 2022 10:17am |
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| geobloke Member Since: 06 Nov 2012 Location: Nottinghamshire Posts: 4393
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It is a funny thing but when LR released the Defender on Boosts with 265/75/16 tyres I just absolutely loved the look of them, but I would still go back to a 235/85/16 tyre size. Best of all worlds IMHO.
As commanded here are the photos you wished from me... Had to get up out of my chair, walk all the way downstairs, out in to the sunshine, through a gate and on to the driveway... Then back... Intolerable liberties taken upon myself in the middle of the afternoon
These are 285/75/16 BFG AT KO2s on Boost alloys with 30mm spacers. Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge |
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5th May 2022 3:47pm |
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| donmacn Member Since: 07 Nov 2017 Location: Nth Scotland Posts: 1829 |
 Apologies for taking liberties! At least the sun is shining where you are!
That's very much appreciated. It shows me I've nothing at all to worry about with the 265s. Ta. Donald 1994 Defender 300Tdi 110 SW - owned since 2002 - 230k miles and going strong (The 'rolling restoration' or tinkering thread: http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic58538.html ) 2000 Range Rover P38 4.0L V8 in the past.. RR classic - fitted with 200Tdi 1984 RR classic - V8 with ZF auto box 1993 Discovery 300Tdi not to mention the minis and the Type 2 VW camper... |
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5th May 2022 4:18pm |
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| geobloke Member Since: 06 Nov 2012 Location: Nottinghamshire Posts: 4393
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Just a quick note on the weirdness of auxiliary sensors
The long and the short of this is they do not last forever and may go wonky...
I fitted a MadMan gauge to Miffy many years ago now and it is a fabulous. Saved Miffy's engine more than once.... Anyway, driving back down the A5 through the mountains last week, nice and gentle, it was a stunning evening. SUDDENLY... BEEP BEEP BEEP BEEP EGT Temp Out Of Range...
Holy crap... Hang on how on earth does the EGT go from 350 not >10000 Deg C Then it returned to normal. Weird.
Settled down for the majority but every now and again the temps would spike like crazy and return back to normal. Anyway, backed off a little more and took it really easy the rest of the way home. Sourced a new K-type sensor and new compression fitting. Outwardly the new probe is twice the quality of the original MadMan sensor. The proof though was in the resistance results, the old sensor was recording 3 times the resistance of the new sensor... Ooops that'll be why the temperatures were a bit... Off...
Click image to enlarge All fitted and looking shiny in stainless steel. Trip out tomorrow so it will be interesting to see what range on temps I get on the way up to Anglesey |
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17th May 2022 6:26pm |
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| geobloke Member Since: 06 Nov 2012 Location: Nottinghamshire Posts: 4393
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Everthing with the EGT gauge went beautifully for the first hour and a half of my drive. The gauge was reading good and steady and the values were miraculously 100-150 DegC lower than previously. OK, so the old sensor was a bit duff then. Phew.
Then, driving along a flat straight stretch of road (yes we do have those in Wales, mostly thanks to the Romans) the EGT gauge went bananas, flashing lights, alarm sounding, 900 DegC... What the... I wasn't even stressing out the engine, not even a little bit. Something queer going on here. So... In short. Engine sounds fine, coolant temp good, oil temp and pressure good but EGT is having a panic attack. Must be either a duff sensor, earth to the gauge or wiring. I pull over on to a side road and bump up on to the grass verge, the dogs are now thinking "heck yeah, this morning might not be as boring as we thought it would be"... Pop the bonnet and the culprit appears to be an obvious one, bad connection at the plugs between the sensor and the loom. I can see one of the EGT wires has vibrated loose and an intermittent connection would definitely produce the weird EGT symptoms. Pull the plugs off completely, break out the gas soldering iron and some heat shrink. 10 minutes later we are back on the road. EGT gauge is now perfect, steady, responsive to load and no fluctuations at all. Plus, the overall temperature values have reduced by another 50 DegC across the board. So, not only was the sensor going bad, but the wiring connectors were also altering the resistance enough to produce a higher DegC reading than was actual. Two important lessons to take from this: 1) Push fit connectors are not applicable for all wiring situations, and 2) travel light but carry a multimeter, gas soldering iron and heat shrink... Oh and 3) which should be number 1) don't panic it may not be as serious a problem as you think it is immediately after that alarm and flashing light activate... |
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24th May 2022 10:14am |
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| L110CDL Member Since: 31 Oct 2015 Location: Devon Posts: 10478 
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Great news that you have found the source of your problem and fixed in a short time
 1996 Golf Blue 300Tdi 110 Pick up. Keeper.
Clayton. |
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26th May 2022 8:37pm |
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| geobloke Member Since: 06 Nov 2012 Location: Nottinghamshire Posts: 4393
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Has a super trip over to Norfolk during the "Great Heat" of 2022. Fully laden with dogs and camp gear and she didn't miss a beat. Ran cool as a cucumber and was an utter pleasure to cruise across the UK in. Love the ol'girl, 230k miles young and good for at least another 230k miles.
Have to say the new brake servo, master cylinder and calipers are immense. Even fully laden when the anchors were deployed the ol'girl stopped super quick and under heavy braking you are hanging from the seat belts. Immense. Apart from Last friday I ran out of clutch fluid No leaks whatsoever, nothing not even a drip of DOT4. Never had that before in any car I have driven. Filled up the system and got home no problem. When at home I pulled the bell housing drain plug off and Splooooooooooosh. Ah that's where all the DOT4 has gone to.
Pilled the slave cylinder and more came gushing out. Huh. Took the slave cylinder apart and the internal bore of the cast housing had corroded terribly, all pitted. No wonder the fluid came gushing out Weird though, it is only 2.5 years old and an OE manufacture.
New slave cylinder ordered
Plus a little bit of excitement as I got all four newly painted doors back for Miffy on Friday. It is time for a bit of bodywork restoration. Really need to refurb the Boost alloys as well, they're looking their age now |
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24th Jul 2022 6:08pm |
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| Retroanaconda Member Since: 04 Jan 2012 Location: Scotland Posts: 2545 
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And that is why the bellhousing (and timing case) plugs should not be fitted unless wading
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24th Jul 2022 6:27pm |
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| geobloke Member Since: 06 Nov 2012 Location: Nottinghamshire Posts: 4393
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For sure Retro, for sure. Except isn't that only for TDI and earlier? My previous 200 and 300 TDI's came with the plugs in a nice little tool kit. But, the TD5's and later came out with the plugs installed in the bell housing as standard. Although I cannot remember who said it to me, but I was told that they aren't meant to be removed on TD5's... I will have to dig out the owners manual I think.
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24th Jul 2022 7:49pm |
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