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Grenadier



Member Since: 23 Jul 2014
Location: The foot of Mont Blanc...
Posts: 5765

France 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Corris Grey
Oh, good to see the well known kitchen ‘workshop’ with ever reliable kitchen workbench, also known as an Aga Whistle Monsieur Le Grenadier

I've not been everywhere, but it's on my list.....

2011 Puma 110DC - Corris Grey
Post #935536 29th Dec 2021 3:44pm
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geobloke



Member Since: 06 Nov 2012
Location: Nottinghamshire
Posts: 4350

United Kingdom 
Honestly Grenadier I do not know what I would do without an Aga at this time of year Rolling Eyes Cooking, drying laundry, baking, basic land rover maintenance Rolling with laughter The usual uses...
Post #935539 29th Dec 2021 4:11pm
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LandRoverAnorak



Member Since: 17 Jul 2011
Location: Surrey
Posts: 11240

United Kingdom 2013 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 USW Orkney Grey
I wonder if your Rug Doctor regime has contributed to the failure of the heater elements? Darren

110 USW BUILD THREAD - EXPEDITION TRAILER - 200tdi 90 BUILD THREAD - SANKEY TRAILER - IG@landroveranorak

"You came in that thing? You're braver than I thought!" - Princess Leia
Post #935622 30th Dec 2021 9:39am
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geobloke



Member Since: 06 Nov 2012
Location: Nottinghamshire
Posts: 4350

United Kingdom 
Either that or sweaty arsed passengers.... But yes that makes sense. The heating element is an unprotected twisted wire rather than the more modern carbon elements. It is a flawed design for sure.



Does anyone know if you can use Waeco elements directly on to the LR wiring, foregoing the Waeco wiring loom?

Or the Britpart (which I suspect are also Waeco items) heater elements?!

It would be too easy to be able to just rewire these elements, right?!
Post #935624 30th Dec 2021 10:14am
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landy andy



Member Since: 15 Feb 2009
Location: Ware, Herts
Posts: 5408

2006 Defender 110 Td5 USW Zermatt Silver
You can wire in the other make heating elements but either need to choose the high, or low heat mode or add a switch to use the facility. You will also have to cut and swap the electrical connectors.
Post #935625 30th Dec 2021 10:16am
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geobloke



Member Since: 06 Nov 2012
Location: Nottinghamshire
Posts: 4350

United Kingdom 
That Andy is exactly what I needed to know. The swapping of connectors is not a problem at all and it would be great to be able to keep the standard LR switches.

I can see there are differences between the Waeco MSH-60 kit and the Britpart DA5717 kit in the way they are wired up. The latter being half the price for the former. Then there is the Exmoor kit EXT010-21 that is in the middle.

Britpart - c. £70
Waeco - c. £135 - the Disco 2 version with the same part number is c. £72 Rolling Eyes Defender-Tax...!
Exmoor - c. £120

The Exmoor, Britpart and the Waeco kits are not the same heater elements. What is interesting is that the Exmoor kit has an additional loom over the standard LR setup that splits the two elements in to a parallel setup as opposed to the standard LR setup that has the elements in series. I would imagine that the back element gets much warmer with this modification.

I would like to know how the Waeco and Britpart kits reduce the temperature. Does anyone know?
Post #935630 30th Dec 2021 11:27am
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geobloke



Member Since: 06 Nov 2012
Location: Nottinghamshire
Posts: 4350

United Kingdom 
Ok, I have answered my own question on how these kits reduce the power to the seating elements Rolling Eyes and the answer was staring me in the face as I mentioned it in my previous post... Rolling Eyes Rolling with laughter

Let's move on...

For kits fitted with a stage 1 - off - stage 2 switch it works by switching the route the current takes between series and parallel. Stage 1 and the low heating option has the current running in series and effectively halving the heat output of the two elements. Like in the standard LR setup. When the switch is moved to stage 2 and high heating position the two elements are now in parallel and getting the full quota of current and outputting twice the heat as stage 1. This is also the modification of the Exmoor additional loom mentioned above.


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This is great news because it means I can fit these on the standard LR wiring and potentially fit the staged heat outputs as well with a few relays Thumbs Up
Post #935637 30th Dec 2021 12:33pm
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Grenadier



Member Since: 23 Jul 2014
Location: The foot of Mont Blanc...
Posts: 5765

France 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Corris Grey
Way above my pay grade. I’ve only just got my head around making fire…. Whistle


 Monsieur Le Grenadier

I've not been everywhere, but it's on my list.....

2011 Puma 110DC - Corris Grey
Post #935640 30th Dec 2021 1:04pm
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geobloke



Member Since: 06 Nov 2012
Location: Nottinghamshire
Posts: 4350

United Kingdom 
Man make fire... Rolling with laughter

Right, so replacement heater elements ordered, should be here in a week or so. I have gone for carbon based heating elements this time so hopefully no more rust related buttock burning Thumbs Up

Cost £38 for a two seat kit. I think I will just wire it up as LR did with one setting. It has not bothered me ever before and if it does it would not take much to adapt the wiring to accommodate the 2 stage relay loom.

Next job is to repair the small tear in the fabric of the side bolster, you know where, the usual position from bum shuffling up and on to the seat Rolling Eyes
Post #935644 30th Dec 2021 2:29pm
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geobloke



Member Since: 06 Nov 2012
Location: Nottinghamshire
Posts: 4350

United Kingdom 
What can I say... It has been a very busy month or so. Goodness, haven't had much time to work on the ol girl, mind you the weather here has been awful anyway. As some of you may know or have realised by my username I do something or other related to Geo... ...logy/morphology/physics... etc.

Well last week was survey week. Every month for the last 9 months I have repeated the same survey lines on four beaches across the north west. Just me, myself and my trusty Leica GNSS. With the way the tides were last week and by that I mean not conveniently timed in the middle of the day. I decided to go "wild" and take Miffy out on the road. So out with the dog crate and in with the thermarest, sleeping bag and camp gear. It was superb to be immersed in the mini solo adventure. Made me realise how much I miss travelling.

Anyway, highlights of the week had to be the meteor shower on Thursday morning and of course...


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...sleeping and eating when you can Smile

Roll on the first week on March...
Post #941834 9th Feb 2022 7:48pm
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geobloke



Member Since: 06 Nov 2012
Location: Nottinghamshire
Posts: 4350

United Kingdom 
New DRLs and DRL controller
A while ago now my bumper mounted DRLs decided they would fizzle out (slowly) and give up the ghost. I tried in vain to get a set of 70mm LED light units from Europe, they did not want to deal with Brexit paperwork. Drove me nuts for a while. Just before Christmas a random search on eBay threw out a set of used/un-used Ring DRL/Fog lights that would do the trick. They were 70mm and importantly had a glass and metal housing. I had tried the cheap as chips plastic fantastic 70mm DRL units and they were quite frankly worth exactly nothing. But these Ring units looked good.

Previously I showed that i needed to modify the mounting system for them to fit in to the bumper and they fitted perfectly. I went ahead and ran the wiring and... nothing... nada...

Balls... Have I just spent hours modifying and fitting a set of duff lights...?! It got dark and I ran for the warmth of the house. Roll on a few weeks and I have bought a replacement DRL controller as the one that came with the kit was suspiciously not RING branded at all and looked very very cheap. I was actually quite happy that I had to buy the new controller as it meant I could get one that would dim the DRL when the headlights came on rather than turned them off.

But... Before fitting it I decided to check out whether the lights actually worked. Positive to white, Negative to black wire and... Nothing... Balls... Ok work backwards from the light units... Unplug the connectors, Positive to white, Negative to black wire and... ITS ALIVEEEEEEEE... Brilliant... Check the other light and thumbs up there too. So that only leaves the wiring loom that can be at fault. Yup no continuity down any of the three wires. So I can now understand why the lights were fitted but removed and put up on eBay.

Thirty minutes later and the loom has been stripped back, fixed with soldered connections (rather than the original crimped ones), heat shrink and wrapped in black electrical tape. Job done. Fitted the loom and controller, turned on the engine and let there be light. Perfect. Flick the side lights on and the light output reduced by half. If anyone decides to fit a no brand DRL controller it is worth bearing in mind that they will not work by simply plugging 12v to them, they require the engine (and alternator) to be running.

One of the leftover mods to the old DRL setup I kept was to add and interruption switch in to the portion of the DRL loom that "senses" when the side lights are on and is responsible for dimming the DRLs. The purpose of this modification is that be flicking the switch you can use the DRLs as front fog lamps as well. Works a treat.

No lights and engine off


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Engine on and DRLs on


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Side lights on and DRLs @ 50%


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Dipped beams on and DRLs @ 50%


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High beam, LED light bar and DRLs @ 50%


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Post #945544 12th Mar 2022 4:08pm
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geobloke



Member Since: 06 Nov 2012
Location: Nottinghamshire
Posts: 4350

United Kingdom 
Well what light thread would be complete without a set of darkness photos Rolling Eyes

DRLs @ 100%


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DRLs @ 50% with side lights


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And the bonus feature that wasn't mentioned...


... Delayed timer get you home lights Shocked Thumbs Up That's a nice surprise...
Post #945601 13th Mar 2022 8:26am
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geobloke



Member Since: 06 Nov 2012
Location: Nottinghamshire
Posts: 4350

United Kingdom 
Too cold to keep warm
Never had a thermostat fail on me but I think Miffy's have stuck in the open position. All weekend whilst out surveying the coolant never got above 65 degC which is not normal at all.

I do not have a fan on at the moment because it has been pretty frigid round here for months, should have invested in a rad muff me thinks... Anyway, rad was fully hot all over so it could have only been that the thermostat is stuck open.

Balls... Rolling Eyes

What I can tell you is waking up to an inch of snow on the vehicle and then not being able to get her to blow warm air through the vents is quite irritating. Thank goodness for heated seats is all I can say, although the temperature difference between the bottom and top of my thighs was many degrees.

Meh...! Now to find a replacement thermostat. It really is never ending Smile Rolling with laughter
Post #948182 5th Apr 2022 2:21pm
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geobloke



Member Since: 06 Nov 2012
Location: Nottinghamshire
Posts: 4350

United Kingdom 
On to the seat back and frame. This is a Puma era seat and whereas the base is the same as previous generations the seat back is different.

The strip down is pretty straight forward, head rest off, then the head rest clamps; These twist and lock in place.

Locked position


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Twist anti-clockwise until the headrest release button is pointing to the rear os the seat (up in the photo)


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Pull it out, NB: the key and associated slot. Refitting is the reverse Smile


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Then remove the cover unclip the long fixing at the rear of the seat (it pulls apart like a zip-lock bag). Begin to pull the cover off upwards, it will only go so far until the fixing clips stop it. Use a pair of wire cutters to remove these one at a time and work upwards.


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Wash the seat covers, it is best to soak these over night then wash them. These covers are in good condition, but have lost a little of their colour and condition.


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The foam on the Puma seats are not glued (or at least mine are not) and just slides off the frame once the head rest clamps have been removed.


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The frame only needed a quick wash, but we all know that there is always fluff and crumbs hiding away in the runners and mechanism. Out with the tooth brush.


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Refitting: Slip the new foam over the back of the seat frame and set in place.


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If fitting head seat pads then this is the time to cut to the right size and glue to the seat foam. Leave top set for an hour.


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Fitting the seat cover is best started with the cover inside out, then fed downwards until the covers seating bar reaches the horizontal slot. I used cable ties instead of metal staples and it works perfectly well. Feed all of the cable ties in to place before pulling he cover down. Working one cable tie at a time work downwards, tightening the ties and trimming them as you go.


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The final step is to lower the seat back and pull the flap around so the black plastic fixing clips together. This part also flows over the metal clips on the seat back. It is a little tricky but doable.


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With the seat cover in place work the seams of the cover so they lie in the right place, refit the plastic trim, then stand back and admire the, oh my goodness how faded have those seats become over time...


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The final touch is to treat the seat with some leather and vinyl polish (black in this case) then some leather balm. Be warned this part can take a week to properly cure, so do this with plenty of time to spare.

The final product complete Smile Pretty happy with the way these have turned out:


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Last steps are obviously putting back in to the vehicle and connecting up the heated seat. In my case it will be adapting the LR heated seat buttons to work with the after market heater kit.
Post #948529 7th Apr 2022 6:44pm
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L110CDL



Member Since: 31 Oct 2015
Location: Devon
Posts: 10427

England 
Great bit of work there with the seat Thumbs Up 1996 Golf Blue 300Tdi 110 Pick up. Keeper.


Clayton.
Post #948716 8th Apr 2022 9:12pm
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