 | Home > Maintenance & Modifications > A day in the life of Miffy the 110... |
 
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| geobloke Member Since: 06 Nov 2012 Location: Nottinghamshire Posts: 4410  
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Ok I have just been checking which relays are which and these are they:
Fuel pump relay (yellow): YWB000150 Main relay (yellow): YWB000150 Glow plug relay (black): AMR3773 or YWB500220 The glow plug relay has two part numbers because the same relay was used for the Disco 2 air compressor pump. It is also worth saying that having just been through the rest of the LR relays on my 19 year old and 219k mile Defender, they all show signs of the same eroding of the electrode. I advise people go and check there's too. Incidentally, since cleaning the electrodes the other day I have not had any trouble starting the old girl up, first turn of the key. So fingers crossed the relays are the culprit. |
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3rd Jul 2021 12:57pm |
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| geobloke Member Since: 06 Nov 2012 Location: Nottinghamshire Posts: 4410
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Ok for future reference:
Solid pipe is ID: 5mm OD: 8mm I removed the damaged portion of the pipe and remembered I have fixed this before... See amalgamating tape repair... What was also interesting was the vast amount of detritus inside the rubber pipe, almost blocked with dirt, very much hoping that it didn't make it backwards in to the tank. The breather works perfectly and the solid pipe is in great condition 
Anyway all cleaned up and new pipe on the way...  Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge |
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3rd Jul 2021 3:16pm |
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| geobloke Member Since: 06 Nov 2012 Location: Nottinghamshire Posts: 4410
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So here is what I did to retro-fit the R380 gearbox cooler thermostat housing. My Defender, being a UK spec model did not come with an oil cooler for the R380, probably because temperatures in the UK do not often get hot enough... right...!? Fast forward a number of years and the gearbox chucked out it's 5th gear and layshaft. Heavy duty bearings my arse...
So I had Miffy transported home on the back of a flatbed and as we had just gone in to the first of the UK's lockdown periods I decided to strip and rebuild the gearbox myself. Quite an experience and well worth doing. The thing that I noticed was that the internals of the gearbox were black, and the oil was not a pretty colour neither. This was the point at which I thought since I am rebuilding this gearbox I may as well do what I can to protect it. It took a while to figure it out but these are the parts I sourced for the job;
Gearbox thermostat adapter FTC2687 x2 Male AN8 to M20x1.5 adapter x2 M20 Dowty washers x4 AN8 (female) to hose 2x 90 deg 3/8" NPT to AN8 (male) adapter 2x 90 deg AN8 (female) to AN8 (male) adapter AN8 braided hose Selection of rivnuts, bolts and washers The reason I went for the Land Rover adapter over the Ashcroft one is that it includes a thermostatic valve which here in the UK would probably be best, or at least that is my view. I went for the solid alloy cooler over a radiator style cooler because it is more robust. I would have loved a double pass alloy cooler but alas they are hard to come by. The only adaptation I had to do was remove about 1/3 of the M20 thread off the AN8 to M20 adapter then it fits perfectly in to the FTC2687 adapter. After that it is just a case of situating the cooler and running pipes to it. I chose to situate the cooler under the nearside footwell panel as it is safe and out of the way of mud slinging etc. If I feel the cooler is not getting enough airflow i will move it to another more exposed position. I did think behind the steering guard under the bumper as a second choice. Ten months on and it is working perfectly. On a normal easy drive around home and to the shops the thermostat does not open and the cooler remains cool. But when the vehicle is heavily laden and/or on a long haul (motorways etc.) the thermostat definitely opens and the cooler gets hot to the touch. Was it worth the effort...? Time will tell... All I know is that here in the UK the R380 mated to a Defender 110 TD5 with a remap and on 33" tyres definitely gets hot enough to warrant the addition of the cooler.
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6th Jul 2021 8:28pm |
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| Co1 Member Since: 19 Aug 2018 Location: North Yorkshire Posts: 3618 
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Jeez’o you’ve been busy!
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6th Jul 2021 8:35pm |
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| geobloke Member Since: 06 Nov 2012 Location: Nottinghamshire Posts: 4410
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As ever Co1 as ever
This was actually done last summer during that long lockdown where we didn't go anywhere. Just not posted much about it. |
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7th Jul 2021 9:23am |
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| geobloke Member Since: 06 Nov 2012 Location: Nottinghamshire Posts: 4410
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It's Miffy present day today
Thank you Mr Postman....
This weekend I will be whipping out the injectors and replacing the seals and most importantly re-setting the tappets. Then oil, filters and injector harness. What is even more important is that the new relays have arrived These will replace all the LR original relays that have seen way to many activations, see above post. It is encouraging to note that the starting problem has not raised its ugly head since cleaning the contacts. Fingers crossed that the fly wheel positioning sensor wiring is not the problem. Incidentally if you are having the above problem then opening up the relay, cleaning the contacts and replacing works a treat, but is obviously not a long-term solution. It's get you home though.
Also in the post is a length of pipe to replace the fuel tank breather pipe that perished in the rear wheel arch. Fun times ahead
Click image to enlarge One last thing, the Smith and Allan oils are superb and are a great company to deal with 100% satisfaction here. |
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7th Jul 2021 12:08pm |
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| excossack Member Since: 22 Feb 2012 Location: North West Posts: 5745 
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I got my R380 gear oil from them.
1999 Defender TD5 110
Regards John M0VAZ Econet Station 48 no clock |
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7th Jul 2021 12:33pm |
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| geobloke Member Since: 06 Nov 2012 Location: Nottinghamshire Posts: 4410
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Super stuff, reasonably priced and delivered to your door. What is not to like
For me they also do a Roverdrive Overdrive compatible API GL4 75/90 oil for the LT230 and it is  |
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7th Jul 2021 12:42pm |
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| geobloke Member Since: 06 Nov 2012 Location: Nottinghamshire Posts: 4410
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I understand that John. Never completely happy with multi-grade oils, just seems too good to be true. One oil to rule them all
More than likely one oil that isn't great at any applications, just OK at some... and easier... |
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7th Jul 2021 12:53pm |
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| geobloke Member Since: 06 Nov 2012 Location: Nottinghamshire Posts: 4410
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There aren’t enough expletives in the world to describe this 🙈
The last time someone worked on Miffy they did a head gasket after a skim. It looks like in rebuilding the top end they have used masses of thread lock and over torqued the rocker bolts. So Flippin’ annoyed, just wanted to sort out the injector seals… 🤬 Click image to enlarge Now what the heck do I do… Has this happened to anyone else, what’s the procedure? |
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10th Jul 2021 2:47pm |
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| geobloke Member Since: 06 Nov 2012 Location: Nottinghamshire Posts: 4410
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On closer inspection it look like the bolts were not replaced when the head was put back on. A lesson here folks regarding re-using bolts in engines...
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10th Jul 2021 6:27pm |
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| Pacha Member Since: 23 Feb 2020 Location: North Yorkshire Posts: 772 
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I was just going to suggest they had re-used the old bolts.  poor workmanship.
I suspect the only option is the head off TBH.  Rgds.
Chris |
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10th Jul 2021 6:33pm |
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| geobloke Member Since: 06 Nov 2012 Location: Nottinghamshire Posts: 4410
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Yup got me a little worried whether they re-used the head bolts as well...
What a PITA eh?! and an expensive oil change at that  Such is life.
I am tempted to get a stud extractor a go, but am well aware that one of those sheared on the bolt is twice the PITA. One like this: [url]https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/screw-extractors/7108959/?cm_mmc=UK-PLA-DS3A-_-google-_-PLA_UK_EN_Hand_Tools_Whoop-_-Screw+Extractors_Whoop+(2)-_-7108959&matchtype=&aud-828197004210:pla-341279429425&gclid=Cj0KCQjwiqWHBhD2ARIsAPCDzanvyrLfraiCo_ibZye_J4Tj9BMwAAIzKPsWlXqccNlkXdLPUaCwVMwaAnQDEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds[/url] Not a conical style extractor so it won't balloon the stud jamming it in place. Still. It is risky... The worst case, the utter worst case is of course a new head but we have a way to go yet before that...  |
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10th Jul 2021 7:06pm |
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| kenzle8a Member Since: 12 Feb 2020 Location: None Posts: 1074 
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Longest left handed drill but you can find. It wont expand the stud and has a greater chance of winding it out without damage
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10th Jul 2021 7:10pm |
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