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donmacn



Member Since: 07 Nov 2017
Location: Nth Scotland
Posts: 1829

Nice one indeed! And a whole lot better than my rubbish attempt.... which I pretty quickly decided was always intended to be a prototype....

https://www.defender2.net/gallery/albums/u...136375.jpg

I think I'm severely under qualified in the needle and thread department! Donald

1994 Defender 300Tdi 110 SW - owned since 2002 - 230k miles and going strong
(The 'rolling restoration' or tinkering thread: http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic58538.html )
2000 Range Rover P38 4.0L V8

in the past..
RR classic - fitted with 200Tdi
1984 RR classic - V8 with ZF auto box
1993 Discovery 300Tdi

not to mention the minis and the Type 2 VW camper...
Post #901551 5th May 2021 6:10pm
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LandRoverAnorak



Member Since: 17 Jul 2011
Location: Surrey
Posts: 11240

United Kingdom 2013 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 USW Orkney Grey
Very nicely done Cool Darren

110 USW BUILD THREAD - EXPEDITION TRAILER - 200tdi 90 BUILD THREAD - SANKEY TRAILER - IG@landroveranorak

"You came in that thing? You're braver than I thought!" - Princess Leia
Post #901583 5th May 2021 8:56pm
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L110CDL



Member Since: 31 Oct 2015
Location: Devon
Posts: 10513

England 
Great workmanship there Bow down 1996 Golf Blue 300Tdi 110 Pick up. Keeper.


Clayton.
Post #901595 5th May 2021 9:42pm
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Danny Fireblade



Member Since: 16 Mar 2018
Location: Hampshire
Posts: 301

United Kingdom 1998 Defender 110 300 Tdi HT Alpine White
Amazing work there, very good Thumbs Up Is that a Barebox its sat upon?

Ok, hit me with it, how much do you charge? Feel free to PM me if you dont want to be inundated with orders Very Happy
Post #901605 5th May 2021 10:32pm
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geobloke



Member Since: 06 Nov 2012
Location: Nottinghamshire
Posts: 4405

United Kingdom 
donmacn wrote:
Nice one indeed! And a whole lot better than my rubbish attempt.... which I pretty quickly decided was always intended to be a prototype....

https://www.defender2.net/gallery/albums/u...136375.jpg

I think I'm severely under qualified in the needle and thread department!


Thanks, I am not sure how successful I would be at your cubby armrest with its indented bit. Funnily I also thought I was woefully under qualified as well, but hey it turned out well. Much better than I thought it would anyway Smile
Post #901645 6th May 2021 9:49am
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geobloke



Member Since: 06 Nov 2012
Location: Nottinghamshire
Posts: 4405

United Kingdom 
LandRoverAnorak wrote:
Very nicely done Cool


Thanks LRA Thumbs Up
Post #901646 6th May 2021 9:50am
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geobloke



Member Since: 06 Nov 2012
Location: Nottinghamshire
Posts: 4405

United Kingdom 
L110CDL wrote:
Great workmanship there Bow down


Thanks L110CDL Thumbs Up
Post #901647 6th May 2021 9:50am
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geobloke



Member Since: 06 Nov 2012
Location: Nottinghamshire
Posts: 4405

United Kingdom 
Danny Fireblade wrote:
Amazing work there, very good Thumbs Up Is that a Barebox its sat upon?

Ok, hit me with it, how much do you charge? Feel free to PM me if you dont want to be inundated with orders Very Happy


Thanks Danny Thumbs Up This is a Mobile Storage Systems cubby box, unless you are talking about donmacn's cubby box.

I am afraid I am a strictly DIY sort of fella and I am happy to inspire and empower others to give it a go too. It doesn't cost much and it is something you can do sat on the sofa with a beer and a flick on the tv. Thanks for the compliment though. Very much appreciated Thumbs Up Thumbs Up
Post #901649 6th May 2021 9:58am
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geobloke



Member Since: 06 Nov 2012
Location: Nottinghamshire
Posts: 4405

United Kingdom 
This evening I continued with the wiring under he seat box. For way tooooooooo long it has been a bit of a forgotten realm, no longer Smile

Or at least the tidy-up began with two new batteries, the previous pair of numb CMX21s lasted over ten years and did sterling work. New batteries, new tidy battery box... but how...

I opted for two Exide EP450 marine deep cycle and stop start batteries that included threaded posts for adding extra ancillaries. To complement these I also opted for a pair of Blue Sea Systems +ve and -ve busbars for the smaller wiring (heated front screen, seats, spots, etc) and a set of battery post busbars for the larger cable connections (winch etc.). The two batteries are connected via a Cyrix-ct 12/24V-120A Intelligent Battery Combiner which includes an emergency jump start facility connecting both batteries together.

I have to say the combination of these busbars works a treat and really keeps the battery box tidy. I am really impressed with the Blue Sea busbars, they look a little flimsy in the photos, but they are not, absolute quality item and I love the protective covers for them too. Super product.



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Post #901754 6th May 2021 7:21pm
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geobloke



Member Since: 06 Nov 2012
Location: Nottinghamshire
Posts: 4405

United Kingdom 
Well, an interesting fault this morning. Never had a (15,2) High Speed Crank (Logged) fault before. Weird...


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The engine didn't stop just illuminates the MIL engine management light. Stop, start, clear faults and it has not returned. Is it a coincidence that I have just replaced the starter motor?! weird...

Any idea folks?
Post #901888 7th May 2021 12:20pm
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geobloke



Member Since: 06 Nov 2012
Location: Nottinghamshire
Posts: 4405

United Kingdom 
In another thread on snorkels I mentioned that I had a PandP cages raised air intake and a Safety Devices roll cage. Here are very few raised air intakes that fit with a roll cage and at the time this was the most cost effective version.

The RAI is meant to be attached to the roll cage upright using a couple of rubberised P-clips, which is an effective and cheap method of attaching the snorkel. I didn't like this so utilised a Safety Devices roof rack fitting clamp and fabricated a simple supporting strap that links the two mounting points on the RAI to the roll cage clamp. Because fixing the cage to the Rai to the wing shouldn't be a solid fixed mounting I utilised a pair of 300tdi air filter box rubber mounting feet to allow the RAI to flex if required and damp vibrations.

Do not get me wrong it is not a perfect design but the best I could do in an afternoon.



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Post #903292 15th May 2021 8:21pm
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geobloke



Member Since: 06 Nov 2012
Location: Nottinghamshire
Posts: 4405

United Kingdom 
To go with the PandP cages raised air intake I decided to upgrade the inner wing manifold and as I was never really happy with the flexible pipe to air box connection that as well.

This was work done last year, but considering the RAI discussion it might be worth showing those who are interested.


Inner wing manifold.

Made from a combination of tube and plate. I designed this to slot in through the wing rather than be fed from behind the wing. The reason for this is to remove the need for two water-tight seals, instead there is just the one between the RAI and the manifold which are then both held in position but he wing. I thought it was a better solution to the standard wing sandwich method.



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From the inner wing the intake is piped using flexible siliconed fabric hose under the steering column and up to the air filter box.

Air filter box manifold.

I realise that this is OTT but having previously completed the normal TD5 air box modification I have never been 100% happy with the hose connection. As the truncated filter box hose connection was short and restrictive... So, time to modify... The air box is an irritating shape, hence the strange shape of the mounting bracket, but essentially there is a length of tube the passes through in to the filter box. It may not be pretty but it is completely functional and importantly... sealed...



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Snorkel top

Just as an extra, I did swap from a Safari scoop RAI top to a cyclonic style top as the scoop just sucked in too much water. The cyclonic version works brilliantly, the next step would a Donaldson style (clear bowl on top), but as of yet it has not been needed.



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Post #903369 16th May 2021 10:41am
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geobloke



Member Since: 06 Nov 2012
Location: Nottinghamshire
Posts: 4405

United Kingdom 
Well guess what arrived in the post this morning...



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Didn’t realise VDO and Continental were related.
Post #904044 20th May 2021 10:35am
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geobloke



Member Since: 06 Nov 2012
Location: Nottinghamshire
Posts: 4405

United Kingdom 
Well a little update. This week Miffy's handbrake began to slip whilst at a steep junction. No problem, popped underneath with a 17mm socket and gave the adjuster a tweak. A good number of miles later however... Billowing smoke and a red hot brake drum... Ahhhh heck...

Next morning popped underneath, whipped the rear propshaft off, backed off the adjuster and removed the drum... Drippy drippy transfer box oil from the crapy felt spline washer. The culprit was the flange retaining nut coming loose, somehow... Could have been much worse mind you. Cleaned up all the oil, de-contaminated the brake shoes, linkages and drum and put it all back together again with a little RTV and some thread lock. Jobs a good'un until I can get a new nut and felt washer sorted.

The good news is that the oil dripping out of it was nice and clean looking, not burnt grey or brown, so the overdrive and additional cooling sump appear to be happy.

Have to confess this transfer box has ben nothing but a pain in the arse since buying it a couple of years ago. This is the forth time I have had output flange leaks and at some point prior to me someone has majorly overtightened the drain plug. The thread in the box is not well at all, but what to do?! Drill, retap and use a bigger plug I guess.

Oh for a garage in which to build (refurbish) my own LT230. Actually, there is ALOT of slop in the rear diff too. Goodness. But that transfer case is what grinds my gears at the moment...



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Post #909563 26th Jun 2021 4:08pm
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geobloke



Member Since: 06 Nov 2012
Location: Nottinghamshire
Posts: 4405

United Kingdom 
Another day and a few more things sorted out, some new things to do too 🤣

The good news is that I have completed the plumbing of the post intercooler boost piping to the gauge and at the same time wired up the rocker switches and gauges to illuminate with the side lights. It’s a small job that is been on the list for a while now.

Whilst doing the switches I also wired up the dual battery link to the split charge relay. I believe the relay calls it start assist. That was a good one to get done and just in time for winter too…



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I have also made a mistake with the Anderson PowerPole connectors and bought the wrong ampage. During a vigorous bit of tyre pumping the other day I managed to over heat a couple of the connectors. So have bought some original 45amp PowerPole connectors which will sort that problem out.

One problem I have been having this past week is a strange case of intermittent non starting. It began after fitting a new starter motor but that might be a coincidence… so tracking down the problem has led to the relays under the drivers seats as reputedly these can cause a heap of weird issues. I opened each of them up to have a look at the contacts and they were all badly pitted and worn. The glow plug relay showed signs of over heating to the point of burning. So for a stop gap I have cleaned up the contacts and will buy a new set of relays for the old girl…

I believe the part number are:

Fuel pump relay (yellow): YWB000150
Main relay (yellow): YWB000150
Glow plug relay (black): AMR3773

Can anyone confirm these are what I need?



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Post #910398 2nd Jul 2021 8:34am
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