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Zagato
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Member Since: 08 Jan 2011
Location: Billingshurst West Sussex
Posts: 4990

United Kingdom 
Busiest time of the year for me with local garages referring work, plus I do most of the UK,s top end classic Supra's and the odd classic Skyline but my bread and butter is still the Defender. I must have done about 500 now.

Just a warning when you buy a Defender that condition is everything, really have a good poke about underneath and check the body cappings etc. I recently had a 10 year old example which looked like it had been sitting in the sea it was that bad. The rust was really aggressive and had just eaten chunks out of it. A quote for £3000 was given just to replace the sills. It is always worth paying the extra for a nice one. I would happily pay £3000 over the odds for one that was treated as close to new as possible. It,s such a shame I see so many untreated Defenders. The owners don,t realise how much destruction is happening in hidden areas and how much money they are losing on it. Take off 3k for a poor one and add on 3k for a nice one!! That's a big range in value.

You have got to love Keswick Green.


Click image to enlarge


The chassis on this 1998 300 TDi is incredible, really good condition Shocked . The engine fires straight up after been standing for a while and no juddering in reverse... You have a great motor here Danny Wink


Click image to enlarge
Post #723546 15th Aug 2018 8:59am
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edo



Member Since: 20 Aug 2018
Location: Surrey
Posts: 358

United Kingdom 
Zagato

Quick question, do you have pricing for your work - I guess every car is different.

I just bought a 2013 '90 11,000 miles from LR and would like to get it protected before the rot starts!
Post #726272 30th Aug 2018 2:15pm
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Zagato
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Member Since: 08 Jan 2011
Location: Billingshurst West Sussex
Posts: 4990

United Kingdom 
Thanks for your enquiry. PM sent with full details of chassis and bodywork interior and exterior, I do more parts than anyone else, from rear tub spreaders to sealing windows to treating bare metal under body cappings, engine bay brackets etc the list goes on, this isn,t a quick wash and whack it up on a ramp in a day and spray a thick coat hiding everything and trapping in moisture Rolling Eyes Most clients leave their Defenders with me for a week which helps as most come from all over the UK and even abroad. £490 to answer your question. I am booking from October at the moment.

Chris
CCalvert@CCAutomotive.co.uk
Post #726520 31st Aug 2018 8:34pm
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Zagato
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Member Since: 08 Jan 2011
Location: Billingshurst West Sussex
Posts: 4990

United Kingdom 
Couple of forum members cars you may recognise Cool


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Post #726623 1st Sep 2018 12:49pm
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LandRoverAnorak



Member Since: 17 Jul 2011
Location: Surrey
Posts: 11240

United Kingdom 2013 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 USW Orkney Grey
Many thanks, Chris. It looks superb Thumbs Up Darren

110 USW BUILD THREAD - EXPEDITION TRAILER - 200tdi 90 BUILD THREAD - SANKEY TRAILER - IG@landroveranorak

"You came in that thing? You're braver than I thought!" - Princess Leia
Post #726649 1st Sep 2018 3:05pm
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Ihod



Member Since: 07 Nov 2015
Location: Berkshire
Posts: 165

United Kingdom 1998 Defender 90 300 Tdi ST Rioja Red
Good to see, Chris. Looking forward to getting LRO back ready for winter! Ian

MY1998 300Tdi 90 Hard Top (Now Soft Top)
MY2015 110 XS SW - Sold
MY2008 110 County USW - Sold
MY1962 Series IIa Truck Cab - Sold
MY1994 300Tdi 90 Hard Top - Sold
MY2001 TD5 90 Truck Cab - Sold
Post #726684 1st Sep 2018 7:08pm
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Scotm



Member Since: 28 Feb 2014
Location: Aberdeenshire
Posts: 638

Scotland 2012 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 SW Orkney Grey
Alternate use for ACF-50 - dealing with the Scottish midge even two weeks after applying:


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Post #728130 9th Sep 2018 7:54pm
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Devon-Rover



Member Since: 22 Jan 2015
Location: South Devon
Posts: 906

United Kingdom 2014 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 USW Aintree Green
Zagato wrote:

Just a warning when you buy a Defender that condition is everything, really have a good poke about underneath and check the body cappings etc. I recently had a 10 year old example which looked like it had been sitting in the sea it was that bad. The rust was really aggressive and had just eaten chunks out of it. A quote for £3000 was given just to replace the sills. It is always worth paying the extra for a nice one. I would happily pay £3000 over the odds for one that was treated as close to new as possible. It,s such a shame I see so many untreated Defenders. The owners don,t realise how much destruction is happening in hidden areas and how much money they are losing on it. Take off 3k for a poor one and add on 3k for a nice one!! That's a big range in value.



Soo True I see a few come through the garage and the number of owners who have no intention of treating the underside is quite staggering.

A 2010 90 the rear crossmember and most of the chassis has a nice russet hue as the surface rust has come through the woeful factory paint pretty much everywhere

I saw a circa 2012 110 on the forecourt last week and the rear crossmember on each outrigger side had gone rusty through the paint. It's a common sight, yet the owners when having a chat always comment on price and market trends yet don't see they have wiped a chunk of value off by their own inactiveness. Also can be found on Fb, Ytube, Insta & Twitter @4WDSouthwest
Post #728139 9th Sep 2018 8:07pm
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Zagato
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Member Since: 08 Jan 2011
Location: Billingshurst West Sussex
Posts: 4990

United Kingdom 
I have a 2007 in at the moment that has already been welded and had a 2008 that needed welding about a month ago. People don,t realise they rot from the inside out. Get them done properly and it will save a lot of hassle and money in the long run Wink
Post #728270 10th Sep 2018 1:55pm
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24heuer



Member Since: 21 Jul 2015
Location: Edinburgh
Posts: 156

Scotland 2010 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 CSW Keswick Green
A few Dinitrol questions...
Hi,
I have a couple of questions re professional Dinitrol coating.
1 - Is the external coating (chassis/diffs etc) usually a heavily textured finish or should it be smooth?
2 - Is it normal to coat all of the nuts, bolts, suspension shocks/springs and bushes etc. or should these all be masked before application?
3 - If normal do you need to pick it all off when you're servicing these parts and then does it need reapplying?
4 - How should the inside of the rear crossmember look after application? Does that have the cavity wax in it or the same external finish as the chassis (ie the bits you can see through the holes)?
5 - Any photos at all re the engine bay protection?
Sorry for the questions, just need to be sure on a few things Smile
Thanks, Cheers,
Andy...
Edinburgh, Scotland
http://24heuer.com
Post #729187 16th Sep 2018 8:38am
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Zagato
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Member Since: 08 Jan 2011
Location: Billingshurst West Sussex
Posts: 4990

United Kingdom 
Andy I cannot answer your questions without knowing a few specifics e.g. If they are directed at my work or someone in your area, which I presume is Scotland to determine which method of application they favour! Age of the vehicle, state of the chassis, wether it has been done before, which Dinitrol products to use from this, which nuts you refer to, etc etc.

Instead of going back and forth with posts which is time consuming for me, it would be easier if I could give you advice over the phone. I will be tied up this evening giving a client a lift to his final destination as he is coming all the way from Ireland tonight but will be free tomorrow. Tel 01403 784686 I will be tied up again with clients and working under a vehicle so if I miss your call leave a message and I will get back to you. Thumbs Up
Post #729296 16th Sep 2018 6:04pm
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24heuer



Member Since: 21 Jul 2015
Location: Edinburgh
Posts: 156

Scotland 2010 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 CSW Keswick Green
Hi Zegato, thanks for the reply.
Sorry this isn't specifically directed at you or anyone in particular's work or indeed a particular vehicle - I'm just interested in the process and expected results, as looking at general googled photos on the web there doesn't seem to be much consistency.
I'm happy to move this to a separate thread if you like(?)

Or, maybe I just need to rephrase my questions.
1) based on googled photos some chassis coatings look smooth as if they're just painted, others look rippled and others look almost grainy - are they all correct?
2) I've noticed the shocks/springs/bushes and steering components/fittings are coated also in a lot of photos - I'm guessing that's fine and normal or should this be avoided?
3) If these fittings etc are coated and need to be replaced is it fine just to pick the coating off or would that compromise the adjacent coated areas and need re-coating?
4) Looking through the socket window on the rear crossmember should that be the same finish as the rest of the chassis exterior?
5) There's a Dinitrol engine compartment product (Corroheat 4010) - anyone used it and if so what does it protect?

Thanks, Cheers,
Andy...
Edinburgh, Scotland
http://24heuer.com
Post #729380 16th Sep 2018 9:23pm
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Zagato
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Member Since: 08 Jan 2011
Location: Billingshurst West Sussex
Posts: 4990

United Kingdom 
1. What do you mean by correct? Depends on what is applied, how it is applied, how the metal was prepared, if it has been done before, how and what with.
2. Depends on how it is done, what is used, preferences by the client, what springs and shocks are being covered, there conditon etc... Some are too nice to spray!
3. Depends on what you are taking off, what was used, how it was applied, how thick it is, what condition it is in etc.
4. What do you mean by should? Depends on what product is used!
5. Depends on what you intend to protect. It was designed as an engine detailer but is used to protect the entire outside of road gritters for instance to mobile air plane steps, to engines, to brand new Morgan chassis, etc. It is heat resistant and clear so can be for many applications. I use it on the underside of show and brand new vehicles, bulkheads etc. It is useful where you want clear, smart protection rather than Dinitrol 4941 underbody wax black/brown protection.

This will not have helped you as I don,t have the info to answer your questions. It,s not about re phrasing questions it,s about giving me more info to help me give you proper info. The answers you are looking for are not so "black and white". As said I can explain quickly and clearly over the phone rather than spend time going back and forth with posts!

EDIT, just spoken to Andy. All clear and sorted now. Andy is practical and knows his Defenders which is half the battle. Good to talk to you Andy, shame we are not nearer each other.


Last edited by Zagato on 17th Sep 2018 10:32am. Edited 1 time in total
Post #729423 17th Sep 2018 7:58am
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24heuer



Member Since: 21 Jul 2015
Location: Edinburgh
Posts: 156

Scotland 2010 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 CSW Keswick Green
All questions answered - thanks a lot for your time - much appreciated Thumbs Up Cheers,
Andy...
Edinburgh, Scotland
http://24heuer.com
Post #729455 17th Sep 2018 9:42am
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edo



Member Since: 20 Aug 2018
Location: Surrey
Posts: 358

United Kingdom 
All dropped off with Chris, looks like mine isnt tooooooo bad!

Looking forward to seeing it all done.
Post #733474 7th Oct 2018 4:25pm
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