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kenzle8a



Member Since: 12 Feb 2020
Location: None
Posts: 1074
 
[quote="Zagato"]
RobKeay wrote:

I have seen window frames corrode even on collectors vehicles that have only ever been dry from new. It is a weird alloy mix that bubbles and crumbles into a powder especially where the seams are but lesser elements do seem to rust like steel. I am afraid (similar to simple alloy corrosion) there is nothing you can do. You can rub it back and paint it but it will come back through in a year or so.

Hopefully someone will produce sound aftermarket window frames Thumbs Up


IMO your better off finding an early frame for the moment, my 20 year old screen thats done 171k has no marks or bubbles in it, my chums 1986 110 has no flakes in the paint in the screen, both landies have lived outside for 20+ years

A chap I know with a 2015 thats done 50k miles looks like is frame has been shot blasted.
Post #980627 31st Jan 2023 12:00pm
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Rashers



Member Since: 21 Jun 2015
Location: Norfolk
Posts: 3337
United Kingdom 2014 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 USW Corris Grey
You may have a point there, lord-haggis.

The Guy who runs the independent garage that I use has said to me that he notices that the latter Defenders are so much more prone to corrosion than the older ones.
Post #980629 31st Jan 2023 12:09pm
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Zagato
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Member Since: 08 Jan 2011
Location: Billingshurst West Sussex
Posts: 4990
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Agreed the later frames are generally much worse... rare to see a 2010 onwards now that isn,t bubbling BUT a few are out there Confused
Post #980663 31st Jan 2023 2:40pm
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kenzle8a



Member Since: 12 Feb 2020
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They must have changed suppliers / metal makeup of the frame as otherwise it makes little sense. I'm no metallurgist but I would think the combination of a change of materials and water based paint combined with Land Rovers legendary standards of finish have something to do with it...
Post #980671 31st Jan 2023 3:21pm
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Zagato
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Agreed.
Post #980692 31st Jan 2023 5:11pm
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Waiteu2



Member Since: 28 Nov 2021
Location: Sheffield
Posts: 3
United Kingdom 2015 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 HT Corris Grey
Zagato wrote:
Waiteu2 wrote:
Zagato wrote:
Pm sent! (Sensitive area commenting on another's work)

Mines is similar to the 2015 one above.
Zag can you PM me with prices too please?
Not eligible to PM you as not enough posts.

Thanks.
Craig



Pm sent Craig Thumbs Up


Thanks Chris.
Thumbs Up
Post #980749 31st Jan 2023 11:40pm
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Rashers



Member Since: 21 Jun 2015
Location: Norfolk
Posts: 3337
United Kingdom 2014 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 USW Corris Grey
lord-haggis wrote:
They must have changed suppliers / metal makeup of the frame as otherwise it makes little sense. I'm no metallurgist but I would think the combination of a change of materials and water based paint combined with Land Rovers legendary standards of finish have something to do with it...


Value engineering Laughing
Post #980778 1st Feb 2023 10:39am
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Mossberg



Member Since: 29 Feb 2020
Location: Lancs
Posts: 552
United Kingdom 1993 Defender 90 300 Tdi HT Aintree Green
Whilst it may well be a lower quality steel, let's face it we all know what a difference a quality coating makes to the longevity of resistance against the dreaded rust. I just can't believe a water based paint is as good as solvent based.
Post #980795 1st Feb 2023 11:58am
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kenzle8a



Member Since: 12 Feb 2020
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Posts: 1074
 
Its not sadly, water based paints while good for the polar bears are not so great for the metal under them.
Post #980811 1st Feb 2023 1:42pm
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Zagato
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Member Since: 08 Jan 2011
Location: Billingshurst West Sussex
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Still some very nice genuine examples around under 50K miles Cool


Click image to enlarge
Post #984441 5th Mar 2023 11:23am
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LR90XS2011



Member Since: 05 Apr 2011
Location: bickenhill
Posts: 3613
United Kingdom 2011 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Galway Green
Check beneath you front door rubbers

Just had reason to pull off my door rubbers and found the start of rust on the bulk head where the door rubbers sit by the top hinge, clearly the door rubbers are a water trap which doesn't help, now all waxed up to hold it at bay DEFENDER 90 TDCI XS,

I hope everyone is well and your land rovers make you happy
Post #984455 5th Mar 2023 1:00pm
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Zagato
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Member Since: 08 Jan 2011
Location: Billingshurst West Sussex
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Another area is on a 110 when you open the rear door at look at the lower seat box end seam under the door rubber. Pull the door rubber off the seam at the bottom near the rear box end on the main body. Both areas mentioned before, with pics somewhere.
Post #984456 5th Mar 2023 1:20pm
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LR90XS2011



Member Since: 05 Apr 2011
Location: bickenhill
Posts: 3613
United Kingdom 2011 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Galway Green
Thumbs Up Thumbs Up glad I've got a 90 less corrosion to worry about. DEFENDER 90 TDCI XS,

I hope everyone is well and your land rovers make you happy
Post #984468 5th Mar 2023 4:00pm
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dainger



Member Since: 08 Feb 2022
Location: Harpenden
Posts: 66
United Kingdom 2015 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 XS CSW Corris Grey
Zagato wrote:
Hi Varyag, welcome to the forum, especially as you are from Sweden and have a SAAB Very Happy It,s all SAABs, LandRovers and the occasional Supercar here at my place this morning. Laughing Oh and a little Swedish Marieholm IF Boat to complete the theme.


Click image to enlarge

As you suggest Dinitrol ML is not resilient enough as an exposed top coat, it Is purely to help adhesion of 4941 and as a thinner cavity wax. For anything which has no rust but you want protected use Dinitrol Corroheat, one layer looks as though you have put nothing on, two layers and more and it becomes opaque. I would put two to three layers on your shock absorber mount, not cheap but superb stuff. It will go hard in time, and you can put it on anything hot without problems as it was designed as an engine detailer. Spray away Thumbs Up


Chris I was just going over the old posts as one does and see the Saab 96!! Wow no wonder she looks so good now, proper full re-build! Amazing!
Post #990761 29th Apr 2023 6:20am
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Zagato
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Member Since: 08 Jan 2011
Location: Billingshurst West Sussex
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Thanks, yes she is due to go to paint in June, I am doing all the prep work myself, especially the rust correction work... of course 😉🤣. Engine will go off soon for new balance shaft etc and then I can finally start putting it all back in.


Click image to enlarge

E.g. I have spent literally days in this engine bay, maticuloulsly treating every rust pit and worm! THe SAAB community have never seen OCD like it BUT do it right and do it once only Wink


Click image to enlarge


Click image to enlarge
Post #990804 29th Apr 2023 1:37pm
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