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X4SKP



Member Since: 29 Nov 2013
Location: Berkshire
Posts: 2284

United Kingdom 2010 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 SW Stornoway Grey
Hello All

Towing Socket Relocation
My 90 came with 7 Pin Towing Electrics which I swapped out to 13 Pin using the OEM Land Rover Wiring Loom for a 90 (this worked well and was well prepared). In the process of doing this I relocated the Towing Socket to the Cross Member 'Hole' that appears to be a 'left-over feature' for the Power Take Off (PTO). Whenever I see the Towing Electrics here it just looks right somehow, utilising an area that looks to be designed for this use. The Socket is less likely to get damaged here than 'suspended' below the Cross Member. There is enough room to navigate the Loom past the Fuel Tank on both the 90 and 110 so (IMO) worth the effort.

110 Starting Arrangement

Click image to enlarge


Destination Location
My plan next year is to refinish the Rear Cross Member with the Tow Frame in-situ. The Towing Electrics will be masked up and remain untouched. I did whilst access was 'ideal' spary into this area with 'several' light coats of Satin Black, both before the Dinitrol Treatment and then 'as a visual finishing coat' after the Dinitol has been applied to the internals of the Cross Member... well as far as access would allow. My hope is to not have to revisit this area for years...

Click image to enlarge



Click image to enlarge




Rubber Gasket
The Rear Rubber Gasket just fits within the rear rectangular hole of the Cross Member setting up the hole positioning for installation.

Click image to enlarge


Marking Out / Centre Punching

Click image to enlarge


M5 Rivnut Drill Size 7mm

Click image to enlarge


M5 Stainless Steel Rivnut Insertion
I did this on the 90 with a homemade Rivnut Tool but after a while and if you find yourself using this type of Fastener often enough it's really worth investing in a Tool, Mine was £40 and so far, has been excellent. I would say it is worth getting the double handed / symmetrical type rather than the single-handed Pop Rivet Gun type from the reviews I've read.

Click image to enlarge



Click image to enlarge


Rear View
Rivnuts are often used in blind situations where rear access is not possible, but here you can check to see an even swollen Rivet Body making a tight installation.

Click image to enlarge


13 Pin Wiring
The 110 Loom looks to be the standard OEM Land Rover 13 Pin Electrics, with around half the Colours following the convention of 'what does what'... I numbered each and returned each accordingly as all worked as it should before I started.

Click image to enlarge



Click image to enlarge


M5 X 45 SS Socket Cap Screws
To secure the Socket I'm following the approach taken on the 90, Swapping out with Stainless Steel Fasteners wherever possible. I have a Nakatanenga Stainless Steel Bolt Kit (VAST 110SW) which is a job yet to be done on the 110, but every time I get an opportunity to swap out, I do in areas like this.

Click image to enlarge


End Result

Click image to enlarge



Click image to enlarge
 SKIP
https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic83242.html


Last edited by X4SKP on 1st Nov 2022 10:59am. Edited 1 time in total
Post #969626 1st Nov 2022 10:54am
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geobloke



Member Since: 06 Nov 2012
Location: Nottinghamshire
Posts: 4350

United Kingdom 
Great job. I wish I had used nutserts... very tidy Thumbs Up

Funny I was thinking about upgrading to the 13pin socket yesterday so I could plug in the CTEK charger through it. Might be the best solution is to re-do the socket/loom Smile
Post #969630 1st Nov 2022 10:59am
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X4SKP



Member Since: 29 Nov 2013
Location: Berkshire
Posts: 2284

United Kingdom 2010 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 SW Stornoway Grey
Hello geobloke

I agree... Thumbs Up

As soon as I knew you could do this, I added it to my to-do-list, it's definitely a neat arrangement to leave your Defender on a Maintenance Charge, easy to plug in with a 'hidden' Defender Battery.

I use a CTEK MXS 5.0

I bought the CTEK to 13Pin Connector from Martin here on the Forum and made up the rest of my set up using Water Resistant External Plugs / an RCD and Enclosures (most from B&Q).

Click image to enlarge


I also configured a 'jump-set' Power Cable so that on-site I can Charge up the Defender whilst the Caravan is hooked up to 230V.

Click image to enlarge


Good luck... SKIP
https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic83242.html
Post #969632 1st Nov 2022 11:18am
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geobloke



Member Since: 06 Nov 2012
Location: Nottinghamshire
Posts: 4350

United Kingdom 
Ah great minds... Rolling with laughter That is exactly what I had in mind. CTEK MXS5 here too. Works a treat on the dual battery setup via the Victron Cyril-ct dual battery link too. Bow down
Post #969634 1st Nov 2022 11:44am
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X4SKP



Member Since: 29 Nov 2013
Location: Berkshire
Posts: 2284

United Kingdom 2010 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 SW Stornoway Grey

Click image to enlarge


Another job on Miffy... Thumbs Up
Keep up the good work Geobloke (liking your thread too Cool ) SKIP
https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic83242.html
Post #969640 1st Nov 2022 12:15pm
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geobloke



Member Since: 06 Nov 2012
Location: Nottinghamshire
Posts: 4350

United Kingdom 
Quote:
Another job on Miffy... Thumbs Up
Keep up the good work Geobloke (liking your thread too Cool )


Better believe it Rolling Eyes Although the persistent rain is a little disruptive to progress...
Post #969644 1st Nov 2022 1:14pm
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blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 16812

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
X4SKP wrote:
... I relocated the Towing Socket to the Cross Member 'Hole' that appears to be a 'left-over feature' for the Power Take Off (PTO). Whenever I see the Towing Electrics here it just looks right somehow, utilising an area that looks to be designed for this use. ...


That hole is not and has never been anything whatsoever to do with a PTO, I thought that this daft Internet myth had been debunked long ago on this forum and despatched to the annals of daftness!

Aside from the obvious dimensional problems, the fact that it is on the offside of the vehicle and almost without exception has a fuel tank directly ahead of it serve as clues.

The hole was designed and intended for ... the trailer electrical socket! No doubt one of the reasons why they look somehow correct there.
Post #969645 1st Nov 2022 1:23pm
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X4SKP



Member Since: 29 Nov 2013
Location: Berkshire
Posts: 2284

United Kingdom 2010 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 SW Stornoway Grey
Thank you blackwolf ... I stand corrected Shocked

I wonder why then (it appears) it is not used more often... SKIP
https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic83242.html
Post #969653 1st Nov 2022 2:05pm
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geobloke



Member Since: 06 Nov 2012
Location: Nottinghamshire
Posts: 4350

United Kingdom 
It was easier for LR to continue fitting the socket as it always had done (on the tow bracket) pre-TD5 when that hole did not exist on cross-members. Cannot think of any other reason...
Post #969656 1st Nov 2022 2:53pm
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X4SKP



Member Since: 29 Nov 2013
Location: Berkshire
Posts: 2284

United Kingdom 2010 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 SW Stornoway Grey
Hello All

Fuel Lines Connected and Fuel Filter Cover Installed
The Fuel Tank had been out of the 110 for almost 3 weeks. It had been near enough emptied prior to its removal to make it easier to handle. I've had no issue with air entering the system when doing the same with the 90. I've also never had (so far) any issue when changing a Fuel Filter. The engine has not shown any hesitation during initial start-up running.

I had bought off a D2N member a Fuel Bleed Pump (just in case) which I hooked up to the larger of the two fuel lines that connect above the Fuel Filter location. I'm not sure what actually goes on here with the two different sized Fuel Lines that run the length of the vehicle but here I was able to connect to the larger Fuel Line from the Tank and on my second 'Pump' fuel flowed out... so these disconnected lines look have retained Fuel within them (up to the Connectors) and so I hoped these would be 'primed' enough to give me no problems.


Click image to enlarge



Click image to enlarge


I had a D2N sourced replacement Fuel Filter Cover thanks to diesel_jim Thumbs Up
This is now 'refurbished' (The 110 came to us without one)
https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic83200.html

Fuel Filter Cover (modified) with New Retaining Clasp

Click image to enlarge



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Click image to enlarge


New Claps
Feels Secure with 180 degree Lock

Click image to enlarge


Added Zip Tie Security
I may be trying to solve a problem that isn't there, but I decided to add a 10mm Heavy Duty
Zip Tie below the new Clasp which passes through an elongated slot in both the Fuel Filter Cover and corresponding position on the Fuel Filter Housing Bracket. This should keep the Cover in Place if the Clasp gives up. The Zip Tie is both more central and opposite to the two location Pins that enguage the Cover in its bracket. On Servicing and replacing the Fuel Filter the Zip Tie will be cut off and replaced. The 90 will get this treatment too.


Click image to enlarge



Click image to enlarge


Back in Action
The extended height of this Guard on the 110 (now matching the 90) hopefully does save
to some degree the general build-up of dirt around the Fuel Line Connection Points.

Click image to enlarge


The 110 also showed no signs of air entering the system, enough anyway to notice, it started and ran well when back on the ground. Happy this Dinitrol Job is now done... ahead of winter with us. SKIP
https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic83242.html
Post #970167 6th Nov 2022 5:24pm
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nitram17



Member Since: 08 Jun 2014
Location: newcastle
Posts: 2260

X4SKP wrote:
Hello All

Towing Socket Relocation
My 90 came with 7 Pin Towing Electrics which I swapped out to 13 Pin using the OEM Land Rover Wiring Loom for a 90 (this worked well and was well prepared). In the process of doing this I relocated the Towing Socket to the Cross Member 'Hole' that appears to be a 'left-over feature' for the Power Take Off (PTO). Whenever I see the Towing Electrics here it just looks right somehow, utilising an area that looks to be designed for this use. The Socket is less likely to get damaged here than 'suspended' below the Cross Member. There is enough room to navigate the Loom past the Fuel Tank on both the 90 and 110 so (IMO) worth the effort.

110 Starting Arrangement

Click image to enlarge


Destination Location
My plan next year is to refinish the Rear Cross Member with the Tow Frame in-situ. The Towing Electrics will be masked up and remain untouched. I did whilst access was 'ideal' spary into this area with 'several' light coats of Satin Black, both before the Dinitrol Treatment and then 'as a visual finishing coat' after the Dinitol has been applied to the internals of the Cross Member... well as far as access would allow. My hope is to not have to revisit this area for years...

Click image to enlarge



Click image to enlarge




Rubber Gasket
The Rear Rubber Gasket just fits within the rear rectangular hole of the Cross Member setting up the hole positioning for installation.

Click image to enlarge


Marking Out / Centre Punching

Click image to enlarge


M5 Rivnut Drill Size 7mm

Click image to enlarge


M5 Stainless Steel Rivnut Insertion
I did this on the 90 with a homemade Rivnut Tool but after a while and if you find yourself using this type of Fastener often enough it's really worth investing in a Tool, Mine was £40 and so far, has been excellent. I would say it is worth getting the double handed / symmetrical type rather than the single-handed Pop Rivet Gun type from the reviews I've read.

Click image to enlarge



Click image to enlarge


Rear View
Rivnuts are often used in blind situations where rear access is not possible, but here you can check to see an even swollen Rivet Body making a tight installation.

Click image to enlarge


13 Pin Wiring
The 110 Loom looks to be the standard OEM Land Rover 13 Pin Electrics, with around half the Colours following the convention of 'what does what'... I numbered each and returned each accordingly as all worked as it should before I started.

Click image to enlarge



Click image to enlarge


M5 X 45 SS Socket Cap Screws
To secure the Socket I'm following the approach taken on the 90, Swapping out with Stainless Steel Fasteners wherever possible. I have a Nakatanenga Stainless Steel Bolt Kit (VAST 110SW) which is a job yet to be done on the 110, but every time I get an opportunity to swap out, I do in areas like this.

Click image to enlarge


End Result

Click image to enlarge



Click image to enlarge


Is there a conversion kit to upgrade the 7 pin to 13 pin?how difficult was it?also thats a mighty rivnut tool you have there skip must be difficult to use in confined spaces though?
Post #972583 27th Nov 2022 12:44pm
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X4SKP



Member Since: 29 Nov 2013
Location: Berkshire
Posts: 2284

United Kingdom 2010 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 SW Stornoway Grey
Hello nitram17

7 to 13 Pin with full functionality of all Pins requires (ideally) a dedicated loom, so it’s a completely different install. The ‘basics’ of a 7 Pin, side lights, breaking lights, indicators and numberplate light won’t give what is required for ‘full’ towing requirements, an additional reversing light, fog light, + powering of a battery / fridge within a caravan (for example).

My Rivnut Tool is more for ‘unrestricted access use’, but it did get in to the (designed for) recessed towing socket position on the rear cross member. It’s much more usable overall than my DIY Rivnut Tool, so for the money worth it… now I have it, I know I’ll find things to use it on. SKIP
https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic83242.html
Post #972623 27th Nov 2022 6:38pm
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X4SKP



Member Since: 29 Nov 2013
Location: Berkshire
Posts: 2284

United Kingdom 2010 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 SW Stornoway Grey
Hello All

110 New Battery
The cold weather recently has revealed that the 110 probably has its Battery nearing the end of its life. It has always started but displays a slow turn over / cranking. The Bosch Battery fitted is clearly not the original LR Battery but (to us) is of unknown age as no record of this came with the Vehicle and it has no obvious Date markings.

So out with the old and in with the new, I've gone with the Yuasa HSB019 Silver / 100Ah / 900CCAmps Dimensions (LxDxH): 353x175x190mm so a good 'full size fit' in the Puma Battery Tray and with 20 percent off using a Halfords Trade Card good value together with its 5 Years Guarantee.

Both the 90 and 110 now have this Battery fitted... time will tell if the generally good reviews for Yuasa extend to us. The 90 has two years so far with the Yuasa and more Electrical 'drain' than the 110, Heated Seats, Electric Windows (never used in seriously cold weather) and a Heated front Window, Sat Nav' and ICE System but so far so good.


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 SKIP
https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic83242.html
Post #979353 23rd Jan 2023 12:29pm
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X4SKP



Member Since: 29 Nov 2013
Location: Berkshire
Posts: 2284

United Kingdom 2010 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 SW Stornoway Grey
Hello All

110 'Rescue'
So a rare event for us yesterday... a flat tyre, well 75% flat, which helped with the degree of side wall
deformation.

I'm trying to remember but can't recall in some 30 years of driving Defenders, having a puncture that needed wheel changing in order to get home.

I once had a plasterboard screw fully through a front tyre on the 90, which didn't leak until it was taken out at my local repair shop, and I seam to remember a very slow leaking valve once revealed by the 'spit test', but I would say we've had around 250K miles without a 'flat' until now.

My wife was out on a Metal Detecting 'Dig' with her 110 about a mile off road and she returned to an
OS Rear Puncture... the recovery solution was the 90.


Click image to enlarge


Her tyres are Continental 235 / 85 R16's, new 1 year ago, now with 5K mileage on them...somewhat irrelevant to a nail or similar, but on all be it with a muddy initial inspection nothing obvious stood out.
There appears to be no side wall damage, which probably points to a simple repair.

Next is a good clean up, closer inspection, inflation and valve test to hopefully establish the cause. SKIP
https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic83242.html
Post #985248 12th Mar 2023 12:10pm
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X4SKP



Member Since: 29 Nov 2013
Location: Berkshire
Posts: 2284

United Kingdom 2010 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 SW Stornoway Grey
Hello All

After a clean up and a few PSI injected the damage revealed itself, a side wall puncture, probably form a nail or similar, so unfortunate to loose an almost new Tyre, but no option here other than to replace.


Click image to enlarge


I took the decision to swap out both the rear Tyres, as the 110 came with 4X New Continentals + X1
Goodyear Wrangler as the Spare (unused but obviously not matching and with a more aggressive tread pattern). All Tyres were on New Landrover Defender SVX Dual Alloy Wheels. So the thinking is to rotate the one undamaged rear into the Spare position and maintain matching ware sets on each axle.


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Tyre Fitting and Balancing at my local Service then home to fit...


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Two more Tyres for the 'graveyard', the Goodyear will be stored in the workshop just in case,
but I can't see myself using it.


Click image to enlarge


Tyre Supplier
Most of us probably have our sources for Tyres, but I ended up using Camskill in the Lake District,
which I've found to be excellent both on service and price, these Continentals were approximately 15%
cheaper than anywhere else I tried with a total of £11.40 shipment over night,... I was pleased. I got my Cooper Zeons for the 90 and previously a set of BFG's from them also... always worth checking but they have been consistently 'better than the rest' IMO SKIP
https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic83242.html
Post #986195 20th Mar 2023 2:41pm
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