 | Home > My Defender > SKIP'S 90110 Diary |
 
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| X4SKP Member Since: 29 Nov 2013 Location: Berkshire Posts: 2287   
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Hello All
Bumper Refurbishment Having completed the main Dinitrol application part of this project now, my attention has switched to the various parts removed and their general condition... 
The 'usual suspects' of Landrover Defender Parts that (IMO) are sent out into this world with only the minimal attempt to protect them all need to be refinished... Front Bumper, Mud Flap Brackets, and Rear Step are the main issues for me. Luckily this 110 has had Landrover Side Steps added recently that are essentially as new, but that means that internally they are unprotected and there is plenty of accounts on D2N that these rust away at speed from the inside out. First up is the Bumper I'll show these 'Part by Part' but in reality, I worked on all Parts simultaneously as (for me) it proves more efficient to work through the various stages with the set up and clear up required. Starting Point Top side and front side apparently OK but elsewhere this is not the case...  Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Bumperettes Removed Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Captive Nuts Removed Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Loose Rust Removal / Surface Abrasion and Rust Conversion Click image to enlarge Red Oxide Application Click image to enlarge Hand Painted Internally / Rollered Externally Because the rusted areas are now so pitted, I opted for a Rollered (stippled) finish on the underside. I applied 3 coats over 2 days. Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Dinitrol A Mist Coat of 3125, followed by 3 coats of 4941 Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Outer Top Coat I applied 3 Coats of Satin / Smooth Black to the outside surfaces of the Bumper (Including over the Rollered Underside) I had also increased the fixing holes for the Bumperettes, with the plan to replace the Landrover Fir-Tree Plastic Rivets with M8 Stainless Steel Fixings. Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Number Plate 'OCD Warning'... I like the number plate to both lay flat and 'float' very slightly in front of a painted surface, (with ideally no vibration and paint rubbing long term... I did warn you )
So a combination of Neoprene and Number Plate foam strips + 2 Mechanical Fasteners... (shown as Number Plate Screws but actually now Security Fasteners) completed this... Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge SKIP https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic83242.html |
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18th Oct 2022 10:47am |
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| geobloke Member Since: 06 Nov 2012 Location: Nottinghamshire Posts: 4395
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Like the button cap bolts for the end caps
What size are they? |
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18th Oct 2022 11:07am |
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| X4SKP Member Since: 29 Nov 2013 Location: Berkshire Posts: 2287
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Hello geobloke
M8 X 30mm A2 SS I used to get near enough all my Stainless-Steel Fasteners from a fantastic family run hardware shop in Reading called Drews, but unfortunately it closed its doors in 2018 after 87 years of trading... 
Now I use Westfield Fasteners, they hold a very comprehensive stock, and provide a first-rate service...
https://www.westfieldfasteners.co.uk/ Defender Stainless Steel Fastener Replacement As with my 90, I plan to replace most of the visible external Fasteners on the 110 to Stainless Steel. I have already bought a 110 Stainless Steel Bolt Kit from 4X4 Overlander, so this too is on my to-do list, adding in the 'Door Security Measures' adopted by some owners...
(Nakatanenga Stainless Bolt Kit VAST 110SW) https://www.4x4overlander.com/product/naka...t-110sw-2/ SKIP https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic83242.html |
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18th Oct 2022 11:42am |
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| geobloke Member Since: 06 Nov 2012 Location: Nottinghamshire Posts: 4395
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Hi Skip. Many thanks for that and the website
I usually go through some bay or Amazon seller for mine, but only because I have not had somewhere else to go... 
Do love SS fasteners and the 4x4 Overland kit is a top product |
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18th Oct 2022 11:50am |
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| LandRoverAnorak Member Since: 17 Jul 2011 Location: Surrey Posts: 11240 
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Drews has gone?! That's very sad, although I haven't been in there for about 20 years and tend to buy all of my hardware from eBay, so I guess I'm part of the problem   Darren
110 USW BUILD THREAD - EXPEDITION TRAILER - 200tdi 90 BUILD THREAD - SANKEY TRAILER - IG@landroveranorak "You came in that thing? You're braver than I thought!" - Princess Leia |
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18th Oct 2022 12:09pm |
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| LandRoverAnorak Member Since: 17 Jul 2011 Location: Surrey Posts: 11240
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Incidentally, your work on the bumper is top notch but I can't help thinking that you'd save yourself a lot of effort in the future if you'd started with a new galvanised one from Paddocks. Sorry
Darren
110 USW BUILD THREAD - EXPEDITION TRAILER - 200tdi 90 BUILD THREAD - SANKEY TRAILER - IG@landroveranorak "You came in that thing? You're braver than I thought!" - Princess Leia |
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18th Oct 2022 12:12pm |
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| X4SKP Member Since: 29 Nov 2013 Location: Berkshire Posts: 2287
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Hello LandRoverAnorak
Drews Sad but true... I did my best along with many others, favouring it over 'the sheds' where possible, but as good as any of these 'old school' DIY suppliers are (were)... they need a first-rate on-line stock presence (even a 'community / tips and tricks' sharing thing too)...to survive. Galvanised Bumper... 
You are probably right... I almost went this route (for around £70)... but I still like the Black Finish, especially as this 110 has a Black and White thing going on, so I would have painted the Galvanised Bumper (upgrade), all be it now with the need for a special metal's etching primer. I took the decision, with limited time and the thought that I'm doing this quite late in the year, just to 'job lot' paint everything needed for now and probably then take stock with selective replacement parts later on. SKIP https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic83242.html |
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18th Oct 2022 1:01pm |
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| geobloke Member Since: 06 Nov 2012 Location: Nottinghamshire Posts: 4395
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I am going to add that although it would have been "easier" to source, paint and fit a new galv bumper it is good in a way to see the old one being refurbished and reused.
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18th Oct 2022 1:06pm |
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| X4SKP Member Since: 29 Nov 2013 Location: Berkshire Posts: 2287
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Hello All
Mud Flap Refurbishment Time to refurbish the 110's Mud Flaps... as a bit of background... I may repeat the approach I took on my 90 and make a set of Stainless-Steel Mud Flap Brackets as they will be far more suitable for the job required, especially being in the direct 'firing line' of all that gets thrown up from the wheels. The 90's Mud Flaps Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge 110 Mud Flaps In order to feel happy enough in bolting these back on the 110 I decided to set up the principle of making the Rubber Mud Flap detachable from the Bracket easily with Stainless-Steel Fixings and to repaint the existing Brackets, in a similar method to the Bumper, loose Rust Off, Rust Conversion, Red Oxide, 3 Top Coats. The Stainless-Steel Fasteners were M8 and I separated the Brackets from the Rubber Flaps with a larger SS Washer to encourage the water to run out and not be trapped between these parts 'aiding' corrosion. OK as an end result but as said I view this as temporary. The Rear Mud Flaps on a 110 are more 'complicated' than the Rear on a 90 (which bolt directly to the rear cross member) but with a bit of effort I think the 110 is also doable. Near Side Click image to enlarge Off Side Click image to enlarge Break Down Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Build Back Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge SKIP https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic83242.html |
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20th Oct 2022 5:47pm |
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| Sea sick Steve Member Since: 30 Jul 2022 Location: Surrey Posts: 8
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So Skip, the next one will be UBX. Just let me know when you can do her.
Nice job mate. |
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21st Oct 2022 10:39pm |
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| X4SKP Member Since: 29 Nov 2013 Location: Berkshire Posts: 2287
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Hello Sea sick Steve
Thanks and welcome to D2N… I’ve only got the ‘motivation’ in me to do this at the beginning of ownership for us so I'm definitely not taking bookings...
Zagato is the go-to man for this, with many a testimonial as to his diligent approach. If anyone commercially really does this to a high standard IMO it's worth the money, almost every step can be messed up and it is definitely one of those jobs that can be superficially passed off as having been done correctly but within a short period of time or if really closely inspected can reveal that you still have problems. With poor preparation you can probably make areas worse by trapping in corrosion and making any remedial work more complicated than if you had done nothing at all. I'll monitor both the 90 and 110 going forward but my aim really was to do the 'main event' ideally only once and then repair any surface deterioration (which I expected within the wheel arches but so far no) and to redo the Chassie internals every 5 years (or so)... the 90 will get this next year. Good luck with UBX… SKIP
https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic83242.html |
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28th Oct 2022 5:32pm |
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| X4SKP Member Since: 29 Nov 2013 Location: Berkshire Posts: 2287
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Hello All
Fuel Tank Cradle / Guard Refurbishment The 110 (and 130) has a much simpler geometric arrangement than a 90 for this piece, with it being relatively simple to both remove and reinstall. The Guard was in reasonable condition but again the applied paint looks to be the minimum you could get away with if the criteria for painting is as soon as you can't see the base metal...Stop 
Fuel Tank Cradle / Guard and 'over the top' Securing 'Strap' Click image to enlarge Key Surface Remove Loose Rust (if any) Rust Convert If you look closely, you can see where the Blow Moulded Tank has sat within the Cradle and over time vibrated / removed the paint on the surface... these are the areas showing surface rust 'patches'. Click image to enlarge Rust Conversion Completed Best practice is to only paint where rust is present and extend further a minimum amount. Click image to enlarge Direct to Metal Topcoat X3 Rollered application (again) as this (for me) has become the 'stippled finish' I'm going for generally for all under body parts. Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Fuel Tank Retaining Strap Equal treatment to the Guard, with a combination of both Roller and Brush work. Click image to enlarge Cushioned Internal Layer I decided to add a 5mm layer of Closed Cell Neoprene to the internal surface of the Tank Cradle / Guard. There is room to accommodate this without interfering with anything that is positionally 'sensitive'. I also added a patch of Neoprene to the required cross member section of the Chassie that Land Rover themselves sticks two Foam Pads to to protect the leading edge of the Tank, one of these was in the correct position and doing a job of work the other was not in contact with the installed Tank, so overall I've improved the end result. Click image to enlarge Fuel Tank Breather Pipe Early on in my ownership of the 90 I had what appeared to be a leaking Fuel Tank which turned out to be the time-honoured short life expectancy of the Fuel Breather Pipe. This was my journey to understand this and fix (and improve IMO) the OEM Land Rover offering. https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic25866.html The significant factor to make this problem better is to change the quality of the part (IMO). Supplier Sea Screw 19mm A1 Fuel / Breather Hose ISO 7840 https://www.seascrew.com/browse.cfm?s=1-57805&adsrc=ADW0 At the time of writing for about 1/10th the Price of the OEM Land Rover Breather Hose you can swap out this piece and IMO (sorry but this my 'caveat note' as some will not want to deviate from OEM) get a superior quality Product. It seems converse to normal logic that a cheaper (less expensive ) part can be better, but I put this down to Land Rovers Pricing Policy for some parts.
The Nautilus Marine Pipe is supplied in 1M lengths, which is actually enough to make up two Breather Pipes... bargain
Starting Arrangement Click image to enlarge Air Venting Pipe I'm assuming this is also the standard fitting Land Rover part of the main Breather Pipe Click image to enlarge Main Breather Pipe 'Interestingly' this is a replacement Breather Pipe from the original installed in 2011, with a date mark of 2019... so around 3 years old, and if a Land Rover OEM Pipe its time is nearly up (possibly). Click image to enlarge Replacement Fuel Breather Pipe Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge T Junction Extra Security I retained the smaller Air Venting Pipe and the two SS Snap Over Securing Rings, but added two Zip Tie Fasteners just tight enough to hopefully stop any unwanted... undoing. Click image to enlarge Fuel Tank Installation Reverse of extraction... all be it with a bit more care now with painted parts...
Click image to enlarge SKIP https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic83242.html Last edited by X4SKP on 30th Oct 2022 11:05pm. Edited 2 times in total |
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30th Oct 2022 6:20pm |
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| geobloke Member Since: 06 Nov 2012 Location: Nottinghamshire Posts: 4395
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Tidy Skip
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30th Oct 2022 6:42pm |
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| X4SKP Member Since: 29 Nov 2013 Location: Berkshire Posts: 2287
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Hello All
Rear Step Refurbishment I learnt the hard way with our previous 300tdi when the Land Rover Rear Step corroded badly from the inside out and around each rivet holding the Rubber Step Mat in place... before I noticed how bad things had got... it was too late. The 90 has never had a standard Rear Step fitted in our ownership, always having a NAS Rear Step instead, (also prone to rusting before it should). The thin metal support element under the Rubber Step Strip is just not up to it IMO, this I have now removed completely and added a central step attached to the Dixon Bate Adjustable Coupling. I have refinished the NAS Step twice in the last 8 years including getting Dinitrol RC900, ML and 3125 inside the tubing to give it a chance to survive longer. As part of the Tow Frame set up on the 90 it is a 'safety critical component'. Click image to enlarge For the 110 I wanted to try and preserve what we have and so treated it in a similar way to the other components that were stripped of for this 'project'... Drilling Out Rubber Step Cover Rivets Heads Click image to enlarge Removing Rubber Step Cover...
Click image to enlarge Drilling Out Rivet Bodies/ Preparing Replacement Rivets Click image to enlarge Removal Of Rubber Step Cover Adhesive Click image to enlarge Applying Dinitrol ML Internally Through Rivet Holes Click image to enlarge Applying Dinitrol 3125 Click image to enlarge Refinishing Rear Step X3 Coats applied with a combination of Roller and Spray Finish. 3M VHB External Use Contact Tape to hold Rubber Step Cover. Click image to enlarge Rubber Step Cover Securing The 3M Tape Specification asks for applied pressure to improve long term adhesion. Click image to enlarge Riveting the Rubber Step Cover These matching size Rivets 'pulled' too far into the Rubber thickness. There is a tendance for this in the original arrangement and i've seen the Rubber Split from these Rivet positions... Click image to enlarge Rivet Spread Washers I drilled out the first (now) trial Rivet and added a shaped 'Spread Washer' under each Rivet Head. Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Back in Place Click image to enlarge SKIP https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic83242.html |
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31st Oct 2022 6:00pm |
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| X4SKP Member Since: 29 Nov 2013 Location: Berkshire Posts: 2287
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Hello All
Bonnet Finishing When swapping out the Bonnet Hinges previously in order to fit the Optimill Security Hinges it was clear that the area directly under the Hinges could do with a little extra help... I applied X3 Coats of Direct to Metal Paint in an area set back 5mm from the outer edge of the Original Land Rover Hinge perimeter, should I ever want to replace these. The Optimill Hinges have essentially a matching 'footprint' so the newly painted areas remain unseen. Click image to enlarge Unpainted Bonnet Hinge Area Click image to enlarge Mask and Painting Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge First of X3 Coats I removed the Masking Tape between Coats as 3M advise not to leave this in place for more than 3 days Click image to enlarge Bonnet 'Manoeuvres' May be obvious after the 'experience' but I seemed to be always moving the Bonnet around in order to work on it through its various stages and to allow access to the front of the 110. It needed to be upside down in order to spary it with Dinitrol but 'covered' over night or if there was any chance of rain, anyway it's probably the most handled / travelled part in the whole project so having somewhere to rest it, work on it, and store easily became 'a thing'... Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge SKIP https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic83242.html |
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31st Oct 2022 6:40pm |
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