 | Home > My Defender > SKIP'S 90110 Diary |
 
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| X4SKP Member Since: 29 Nov 2013 Location: Berkshire Posts: 2287   
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Hello All
110 Security Layers And so it begins... It took me around a year and a half to get the 90 to where it is now and almost all of the measures I intend to repeat for the 110... with most being Passive (they are just there with no need to do anything) but with a couple (that are my favourites) requiring Active participation... the 'deal' I struck with my wife is that two are always do... total time to complete < 1 Minute (with familiarity 30 seconds) Optimill Purchase Nearly everything here was from Optimill, my first purchase and very impress with both customer enquiries before hand, delivery, packaging and more importantly... quality of product (especially the stuff they are responsible for)...  Click image to enlarge Startech Vs Momo Quark I inherited my Startech with the 90 and love it... my wife however likes it but is not really a fan of the stitching on the inner circumference. The Startech is mad money also with a current price (2022) of £530 Inc VAT...even claiming the VAT back your at £442 which I could just about live with but it's touch and go really as to whether this is value for money...Our solution was to try the Momo Quark, at an almost give away price of £140 (£117 Ex VAT)... It has a 'fatter' grip generally than other Momo wheels is predominantly Polyurethane (like the original LR Steering Wheel) with leather inset pieces... Click image to enlarge Momo Quark on top of Startech... Click image to enlarge Quick Release Boss Fitting... Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Off with the Old on with the New... Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Self Cancelling Indicator Pins... Click image to enlarge Old Vs New 'Pins'... Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Widening Pins to try and keep self cancelling 'activation timing'... Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Optimill Steering Column Boss... Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Optimill Steering Column Boss Docking Station... Click image to enlarge Cubby Box Home for Steering Column Boss... Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Britpart Cubby Box 'strengthening'... The 110 came with a Britpart Cubby Box (and to be fair to Britpart) this is about as good as the original from Land Rover so expect to strengthen it, replace hinges and generally re-apply the vinyl covering as it becomes un-stapled... Click image to enlarge Road Test... Click image to enlarge First 100miles with the Momo Quark and I'm (we're) impressed it feels really solid, no discernible flex very comfortable and if there was no such thing as the Startech this would do fine. The Optimill Quick Release Boss and the Steering Column Swivel Lock Boss are things of beauty, as an engineer its so good to see when the effort has been put in...one observation which is probably manly due to the exceptional hot weather recently, but the Swivel Lock Boss can get too hot to handle after being in direct sunlight, we will live with it for a while and if a consistent issue I will refinish it in Fuji white... 
Bonnet Hinges Next... SKIP https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic83242.html |
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21st Jul 2022 6:48pm |
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| X4SKP Member Since: 29 Nov 2013 Location: Berkshire Posts: 2287
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Hello All
110 Bonnet Security Hinges Time to fit the Optimill Bonnet Hinges. Clean the underside of Hinges Click image to enlarge Apply the Self-Adhesive Rubber Gaskets Click image to enlarge Preparing to remove the Bonnet Click image to enlarge Bonnet Off This is 'definitely' a two person job... Click image to enlarge Existing Bulkhead Bonnet Mounts In need of a clean... Click image to enlarge Removing Existing Bonnet Hinges Philips + 10AF Socket... Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Existing Hinge Only just painted by Land Rover... Click image to enlarge Cleaning Up Hinge Sites Click image to enlarge Not Painted by Land Rover My guess is that the Bonnet was held at the Hinge Sites whilst sprayed... Date Stamp is interesting... Click image to enlarge Preparing the Optimill Hinges for assembly to Bulkhead Click image to enlarge Hinges Installed Tolerances allow the Hinges to open to approximately 60degrees Click image to enlarge Preparing to install Bonnet Click image to enlarge Bonnet Positioned Another two person job... Click image to enlarge Open Bonnet to Stay Position Approximately 45degrees Click image to enlarge Rear Rubber Drainage Channel / Seal Ensuring this is the right side of the Bonnet 'Lip' is worth checking Click image to enlarge Securing Bonnet Hinges Click image to enlarge Finished 30 Minutes (when prepared) Click image to enlarge Observations Quality product, aligns and secures to existing bonnet holes, results in matching bonnet gaps from those you were use to with the OEM Hinges, end result deters at best or slows down a theft rather than outright preventing it. DIY upgrades... swap out the under bonnet fixings for custom, add the anti bonnet opening security measures. for Optimill
On finishing the installation I noticed a very small 'chipped part' missing from one of the Bushes this area was very small approximately 1mm wide x 3mm long, and was not detrimental to the function of the Bush so could be viewed as a 'cosmetic fault'... Optimill sent out a replacement Bush Set by next day post. Next Job I plan to undertake a full Dinitrol treatment of the 110 shortly, as she has never been touched in her 11 years. This will include the Bonnet, so it gets removed again, allowing the Bush swap over. SKIP https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic83242.html |
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22nd Aug 2022 5:52pm |
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| X4SKP Member Since: 29 Nov 2013 Location: Berkshire Posts: 2287
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Hello All
Time to give the 110 it's Dinitrol Treatment First... thanks again to Zagato and his Corrosion Prevention Guide! and to all those who have contributed over the years, it is probably now the go-to source for information on this topic. I have 'previous' here, tackling my 90 soon after purchase, at 3 years old, additional underside protection remains probably the most important step for preserving your Defender. 90's Dinitrol Treatment https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic10467-165.html Click image to enlarge I'm still amazed that Land Rover dispatched these vehicles, with a high chance that many will see a hard life, in most climates and surface conditions possible with essentially little or no extra consideration given to protecting such a vehicle. It would have been interesting to see what Volvo or Saab would have done if they had had a hand in designing the protection for the Defender. Having been lucky enough to find a 2011 110 which looks to have spent most of its life so far under cover, and which certainly shows no signs of having been driven through 11 winters I was sure this was going to be one of the first steps in our ownership... Cleaning Power washing, flooding through the chassis, and as it turned out removing some of the body colour paint from the underside of the two rear wheel arches... (I didn't see any mud or even discoloured water draining from within the chassis). Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Foam 'infill strips' between Sills and Body 'blown out' I've seen these 'disintegrate' before so wasn't surprised that they didn't like close attention from a power washer. Click image to enlarge The 110 was then left for 2 weeks at a long stay airport car park to thoroughly dry out. Preparation I spent a day getting the 110 safely up in the air and covered... Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge I managed to lift her 400mm giving me 740mm clearance underneath to the underside of the chassis Click image to enlarge Draining Fuel Tank My plan as with the 90 was to remove the 110's Fuel Tank as this opens up the whole section behind the rear Axle and 'exposes' the full width of the Rear Cross Member. Click image to enlarge Fuel Tank Out Tow Frame off, Fuel Tank Supported, Filler Hose and Breather Hose removed also Fuel Lines back to Fuel Filter disconnected... Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge General Strip Down Everything really that either gets in the way or if removed allows better access into treatment areas, I took off the Wheels (obviously) Side Steps, (also Sills to replace / improve 'lost' foam strips) Wheel Arches, Mud Flaps, All Lights, Front Grill and Bumper and Bonnet. Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Overall, I spent the best part of two days stripping down the 110 in preparation for the Dinitrol Treatment SKIP https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic83242.html Last edited by X4SKP on 3rd Oct 2022 10:51am. Edited 2 times in total |
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30th Sep 2022 6:07pm |
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| geobloke Member Since: 06 Nov 2012 Location: Nottinghamshire Posts: 4395
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Great job Skip. A heck of a lot of effort been put in here. Heck of a lot...
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30th Sep 2022 6:21pm |
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| LandRoverAnorak Member Since: 17 Jul 2011 Location: Surrey Posts: 11240 
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That does look like a great job, Skip. You've clearly got much more free time than me
 Darren
110 USW BUILD THREAD - EXPEDITION TRAILER - 200tdi 90 BUILD THREAD - SANKEY TRAILER - IG@landroveranorak "You came in that thing? You're braver than I thought!" - Princess Leia |
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2nd Oct 2022 9:15am |
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| X4SKP Member Since: 29 Nov 2013 Location: Berkshire Posts: 2287
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Thanks Gents...
geobloke you are right... but I don't see many (if any) short cuts here that i'd be prepared to take, Dinitrol is (I believe) a quality product with a 'reassuringly expensive' price to match, I spent £425 (2022) to treat the 110 + some preparation paints and consumables, so this is a £500+ Project before you factor in the time. As has been said on Zagato's guide many times preparation is key, this is not a 'drive through' project for anyone, you ideally need a forensic eye and fastidiousness in approach to ensure that you are not just giving the underside an expensive 'cosmetic cover up' that doesn't stand up to examination. Zagato has many testimonials to his approach and if my circumstances and geography were different, I'd be happy to hand over this 110. I'm not placing myself in the same league as Zagato but I'm very happy with the results on the 90 which after 8 years remain very good.
LRA I had a window 'between projects' that after our holiday, and with remaining good weather permitting I'd tackled this. The 90 took me a week, the 110 will be 2 weeks, not that it is twice the project, maybe 20-25% more (surface area + 2 extra doors) it's just that I've found I don't have the amount of free time I thought I've have... 
Scotm you are right that this area is prone to clogging up, but (if we are talking about the same place) this would involve drilling out rivets, and with this approach you begin to head down the path of feeling like you're dismantling the Defender. I did get into here (as this bit is new to me in comparison with the 90) there is an approximately 40mm wide box section inclined at an angle matching the rear door, luckily at its base there is a 20-25mm grommet allowing access to both flush out and ultimately treat, so in these two areas i will get both the ML and 3125 Cavity Dinitrol in place (exactly the same process of application as treating the base of all 5 Doors and within the A and B Pillars via the Door Hinges). Photos to follow...  SKIP
https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic83242.html |
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3rd Oct 2022 9:11am |
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| X4SKP Member Since: 29 Nov 2013 Location: Berkshire Posts: 2287
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Hello All
Door Sills Relacing the foam seals is relatively straight forward, I first removed all traces of the previous seals, the foam itself had given up, falling apart in my hand, the adhesive backing was 'intermittent', good at both ends and hit and miss during its path, white spirit lifted this with some help from a wooden 'stick' so as to be non-damaging. Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge New Body Work Sills / Seals Before removing the Sills (on this 110) I measured the gap of the Seals, approximately 5-6mm at the Rear Doors and 8-10mm at the front of the Front Doors, (a noticeable variation overall  ). I opted for Exterior Grade 5mm self-adhesive Closed Cell Neoprene Foam, applying two strips each side, one to the Sill and one to the Vehicle itself.
Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge These Seal's...what do they do 
The 'old' foam seal's soak up the water, both from the lower drain holes along the bottom edges of each door + the road spray that comes up to the underside of the vehicle... I've opted for Closed Cell replacements and took the view that draining water from the Doors will run-off (or dry out) from sitting on top of these Seal's, having a Seal that doesn't hold on to water within itself seamed to me a better option. Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Dent Fix On the front NS wing conveniently situated under the Snow Cowl was a Dent that with the removal of the Wheel Arch I took the opportunity to try and correct (or make better at least), I fashioned an internal wooden former closely matching the Wing profile and then progressively applied enough pressure with a bridging external Clamp, both 'Formers had Neoprene (anti-slip / non-damaging) pads applied. Overall, a reasonable improvement. Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Full Strip Down The 110 is more or less there now ready for further close inspection cleaning and overall being prepared for the main event the application of Dinitrol Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Dinitrol X2 Dinitrol RC900 Conversion Fluid X1 Dinitrol Aerosol Wand (for the above) X2 1LTR Dinitrol ML X6 1LTR Dinitrol 3125 Cavity Treatment X12 1LTR Dinitrol 4941 Surface Treatment Click image to enlarge To some degree, this now feels like the start of the Project... SKIP
https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic83242.html |
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3rd Oct 2022 10:44am |
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| Scotm Member Since: 28 Feb 2014 Location: Aberdeenshire Posts: 640  
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Based on posts from Zegato on the main corrosion protection thread, this year I tried Dinitrol 447 for the rear wheel arches and other hi impact areas on top of the 4941 on top of 1000.
Feels pretty tough finish and hoping it lasts longer on the harsh salted roads we get up here in NE Scotland than 4941 on its own. |
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3rd Oct 2022 2:01pm |
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| X4SKP Member Since: 29 Nov 2013 Location: Berkshire Posts: 2287
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Hello Scotm
A 'soft southerner' here reporting back... I looked at this too, my understanding is the Dinitrol 447 has Zinc additives with a claim that it increases corrosion prevention in close proximity to steel. I also looked at Dinitrol 445 which is aimed at high impact areas + has salt water and road salt resistance (did you use this one?) I have stayed with the Dinitrol 4941 giving the 110 4 Coats over two days, whilst we live in a rural area often with muddy roads covered in grit from the farm vehicles my 90's protection has remained intact. We visit Scotland at least twice a year, my wife is from Fife and she has family in Bamfshire and Lanarkshire... maybe if we lived in 'god's country', I'd toughen up the Defender more... SKIP
https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic83242.html |
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3rd Oct 2022 6:47pm |
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| Scotm Member Since: 28 Feb 2014 Location: Aberdeenshire Posts: 640
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445 does sound interesting - I hadn't seen that - just went with Zegato's recommendation without too much thought.
I wish I had the time to do such a good as job as yours. I need to take my sills off next spring to replace the seals as you have done and treat some minor rust behind them. |
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3rd Oct 2022 7:20pm |
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| X4SKP Member Since: 29 Nov 2013 Location: Berkshire Posts: 2287
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Hello All
110 Stripped / Sill Seals repaired and reinstalled Click image to enlarge Condition of Underside Generally untouched in its 11 year life, the Dealer we bought the 110 from had power washed the vehicle and remarked how good it was generally. We inspected underneath this during the first 'viewing' and knew generally the condition from what is visible. I found as with my 90 that most visible surface rust is present on the stuff bolted to the Chassie, almost all parts of the Axels and Running Gear had some minor areas requiring treatment. The unknown is the internal condition of the Chassie, without access to a endoscope (although I did look at what is now available) I decided that in any event it wouldn't change the treatment planned for this 110 so I pressed on. Rear Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Front Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Central Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Rust Conversion Anything loose was removed, sanded (keyed) or wire brushed, with all Conversion Products they rely on the presents of Rust to activate. Conversion Products also should be used (more or less) only where there is Rust as they add nothing to an otherwise good 'neighbouring' painted surface. After the Conversion Product has worked (turned the Rust Black) you are Free to Paint with the 'top-coat' of your choice. Click image to enlarge Chassie Dinitrol RC900 Application I used X2 Cans of Dinitrol RC900 with a 360degree Spray End Nozzle within the cavity of the Chassie. Click image to enlarge Covering Up What You Don't Want to Dinitrol Exhaust, Prop Shafts (using Silver Foil), Fuel Line Connection Points, Fuel Filter, Axel 'Ends' / Breakdiscs, Fuel Filler Plastic Pipe, I also grouped and bagged at each corner all Light Connection Plugs. Following this I masked the Defender with News Paper up to the Window Line (Essential for mist over spray). Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Spray Set Up I used a 24LTR Compressor set at a Spray Pressure of 6 Bar. A 'Spray Table' Also helps with a 'Test Spray Box' and Cleaning Fluids between applications. For Dinitrol use White Spriit, I use an Old Can just for this purpose to spray through and 'back pressure' the White Sprit to clean the Schwaltz Spay Gun. Whilst spaying generally in 15-20 degrees, I have found that things work just that bit better if you heat up the Dinitrol. I used an Ice Bucket (with a thermos like interior and protective plastic liner) to hold boiling water from a kettle, which lifted the Dinitrol's temperature, making it less viscous (runnier) this is particularly helpful for the 3125 and 4941 but I used it for the ML too. Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Chassie Dinitrol ML Application Click image to enlarge Bonnet Dinitrol ML Application Let this run into all unseen areas between the inner and outer Bonnet Skins Click image to enlarge It's good to get to this point, my advice (for what it's worth), really try to resist rushing any of the application stages from here on, after you have spent a few hours under a Defender and looked at what is there (not surprisingly) there are a lot of holes, bungs, folds, lapped joints, recesses, blind spots, a 'riot' really... of hand built possible corrosion points. On the plus side it could be worse, what you see is what you get with a Land Rover and there is space to move around, JLR could have semi-covered / plated over areas with a view to protect the Defender from knocks and off-road damage, this would have required more effort to expose what needs protecting. SKIP https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic83242.html |
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5th Oct 2022 2:10pm |
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| nitram17 Member Since: 09 Jun 2014 Location: newcastle Posts: 2260 |
Great job as always skip
if i may ask two questions..what size is the quark wheel 14 0r 15 inch? and how do the bonnet hinges work ,do they simply stop the hinge being unscrewed because they cover the screws or do they stop the bonnet from being lifted off? |
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7th Oct 2022 10:38am |
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| X4SKP Member Since: 29 Nov 2013 Location: Berkshire Posts: 2287
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Hello nitram17 Thanks...
Q1. Click image to enlarge Q2. Neither... With the standard Defender Bonnet Hinges (as we know) if you lift the Bonnet to a vertical position, you can then lift the Bonnet off the vehicle. All (as far as I know) Bonnet Security Hinges work on the premise of 'securing' the Bonnet by adding 'security fasteners', so the above cannot happen 'easily'. You can however disassemble the set up with the right tools and remove the Bonnet... so all you have really done is add time and the requirement for the right tools to achieve the same result... this may be (hopefully will be) enough to send an opportunist on their way. PM me if you want more info'  SKIP
https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic83242.html |
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7th Oct 2022 12:11pm |
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| X4SKP Member Since: 29 Nov 2013 Location: Berkshire Posts: 2287
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Hello All
Dinitrol 3125 Internal Chassie Application Heated (warmed) Dinitrol 3125 + 360 Spray Nozzle End...this is probably the most important stage in the whole process, if your principal aim is to stop the Chassie rotting from the inside out. I used X4 1LTR Cans to complete the 110's Internal Chassie Cavities. You are Spraying blind so methodically work your way around in an order that makes sense to you. Try to manoeuvre the Feed Pipe (and therefore Nozzle End) in a way that maximises the (imagined) internal coverage. I worked my way around the vehicle twice in around 3 hrs Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Dinitrol 3125 Underside External Application The goal here is to 'Mist Coat' all areas that are planned for the later application of the Dinitrol 4941. This is where it can (will) get messy. I used a full spray cover suit (with hood) a balaclava, numerous pairs of disposables rubber gloves eye goggles and 'experimented' with 3 different types of breathing face masks. White sprit cleans off the over-spray. I used X2 1LTR Cans to surface prepare the 110. Dinitrol 3125 remains tacky for quite some time (to a degree always) so you can clean up without needing to rush things should you get this stuff places to don't want. Absolute key H&S here is don't breathe in this stuff and avoid any contact with your eyes...best practice is to have on standby a eye bath kit should you get this wrong. This step took around 3 hours also (lots of manoeuvring to get into position, and rehearsed spray patterns). Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Dinitrol 4941 Underside External Application This is where the whole build up has been leading. The aim is to cover all areas that have been progressively prepared through the various stages. The Spray Gun can be used directly with its nozzle producing a very even cone of spray. For my set up this gave about a 150mm dia spray field at about a 300mm stand-off distance. With practice you can spray right up to and more or less miss anything you want to, so up and around the Gearbox / Transferbox and Engine. With care all areas can join in the general coverage. The finish is a satin-matt with a stippled / textured surface... if you over do any area, it will be glossy at first then dull down a bit, if you go back to these areas and lightly overspray at a slightly increased distance you can aesthetically get a matching appearance (if you're a touch OCD about things). There is a real sense that this is the business end of the protection you are aiming for. Overall I applied 4 Coats, over two days, using X10 1LTR Cans. Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge SKIP https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic83242.html |
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7th Oct 2022 6:07pm |
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