 | Home > My Defender > Swiss 110 Keswick 2.4 |
 
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| JOW240725 Member Since: 04 May 2015 Location: Suffolk Posts: 7873   
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Great photos!!
 James
MY2012 110 2.2TDCi XS SW Orkney Grey - http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic43410.html MY1990 110 200TDi SW beautifully faded Portofino Red - https://www.defender2.net/forum/post743641.html#743641 MY1984 90 V8 Slate Grey - https://www.defender2.net/forum/post744557.html#744557 Instagram @suffolk_rovers |
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7th Nov 2021 9:44pm |
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| Supacat Member Since: 16 Oct 2012 Location: West Yorkshire Posts: 11018 
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+1 stunning.
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8th Nov 2021 8:30am |
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| L110CDL Member Since: 31 Oct 2015 Location: Devon Posts: 10476 
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+2 stunning
 1996 Golf Blue 300Tdi 110 Pick up. Keeper.
Clayton. |
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8th Nov 2021 10:32pm |
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| lolo Member Since: 18 Jul 2021 Location: Vaud Posts: 118  
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Nakatenanga stainless bolts kit
Finished fitting the Nakatenanga stainless bolts kit. All original bolts were easy to remove but the lower rear door hinge on the B pillar, those needed a bit more torque to get out as they were more rusted than all other ones. I was surprised that all bolts were lightly torqued. So i reapply a light torque when bolting back. I applied a liberal quantity of anti-seize Weicon 26000045 paste on all bolts. A pack of 450gr is more than enough for all the bolts as I used maybe not more than one third. The kit is good quality, but washers diameter for the rear body x-member are more large than the original, and also note that the 4 upper B pillar door hinges bolts are 10mm longer than the original. As original are already a bit long I had to cut the new ones by 15mm.  Click image to enlarge Fitting all those bolts can be a one man job, even if easier with four hands. For doors there is no need to remove the panels to deal with the non captive nuts. No need if... you don't let fall any nut inside the panel when unbolting 
To unbolt I used a needle nose plyer to hold and remove the non captive nuts Click image to enlarge I took the opportunity to clean the hinges holes with polish and use of a Dremel Click image to enlarge Then to bolt in I used a little trick to hold the nut in place, some tape on the 13mm wrench and so the nut can be easily aligned with the hole as the wrench is maintained in place squeezed between the door and the panel. Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge It's an easy job if things goes well. Hopefully no issue with seized or broken bolts or rounded heads. But it takes some time to do it carefully. The end result is good looking brand new bolts. One thing I am wondering: why there is plenty of stainless bolts kits, but no OEM mild steel bolts kit ready to use  |
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14th Nov 2021 7:49pm |
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| lolo Member Since: 18 Jul 2021 Location: Vaud Posts: 118
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TD4 110 SW 2008 - Rear tub detailed dimensions
This weekend I got rid of my third row seats. Pretty straight forward job, providing that you keep the seats folded UP. Gosh those seats are heavy  Removing them is a very cheap way to get at least +10 cv 
To start the design sprint of my removable camper setup I was looking for the detailed dimensions of the rear tub. Not easy to find ready to use technical drawings/blueprints for the TD4. All valuable resources found around do not converge on same measures, some are for the TD5, some other updated for the TD4 TD5 : https://www.defender2.net/forum/post608024.html TD4 : https://www.aulro.com/afvb/90-110-130-defe...r-tub.html TD4 : https://medium.com/giraffe-13/innenausbau-...5b73cb4aa4 Capitalizing on those schemas I have measured again and updated all dimensions (green boxes). No warranty, expressed or implied, measures are based on my TD4 110 and according my old eyes 
Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge |
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21st Nov 2021 10:20pm |
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| lolo Member Since: 18 Jul 2021 Location: Vaud Posts: 118
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Windows deflectors and water ingress fighting
Very cold and rainy weekends here in Switzerland. Time to start fixing water ingress, at least trying to. Only ingress spoted for the moment are on the footwells, both sides. I had already those rubber fender seals (#LR038612) fitted Click image to enlarge It helped reducing water ingress, but not eliminated it. Than I have done a quick and dirty temporary job with some "dum dum" like 3M scotch seal (#5313) between the front fenders and bulkhead, and on each bottom front windows corners. This also helped reducing water ingress Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge I will have to redo it cleanly with Sikaflex 521UV once weather will permit. But heck, still some residual water ingress in the footwells... The next suspects are windshield brackets Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge OEM windscreen bracket gasket lowers (#LR055347) and uppers (#MXC9983) have been ordered, but still not yet received. I hope that replacing them will solve the ingress... but I am fully aware that the water ingress manual is pretty thick! Wait & see. By the way just for fun, a brand new rear door foot step after 2 weeks of rainy days This is cr*p
Click image to enlarge An helpful addition to keep water out and lower turbulence while driving with cracked window: deflectors. Those are from Climair, tinted smoke. I am very satisfied and visual field not too much impacted Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge |
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5th Dec 2021 7:10pm |
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| kenzle8a Member Since: 12 Feb 2020 Location: None Posts: 1074 
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You need to seal the bolts that hold the door retainer in the top of the footwell, i covered mine in dumb dumb, i will get some photos when itโs light tomorrow
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5th Dec 2021 7:18pm |
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| lolo Member Since: 18 Jul 2021 Location: Vaud Posts: 118
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Thank you Lord-Haggis for your hint
Looking forward to seeing your pics as I have no clue where are those bolts |
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5th Dec 2021 7:25pm |
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| Dinnu Member Since: 24 Dec 2019 Location: Lija Posts: 3186  
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I think LH is referring to the bolt seen in picture 5 & 6.
But water seems to be dripping from further up. The windscreen blocks are possibly the source. Use sealant (not silicone, as silicone has acetic acid, highly corrosive) as the gaskets in my opinion only help to protect the paintwork rather than sealing anything. 1988 90 Hard Top, 19J Diesel Turbo, Shire Blue - Restoration ongoing 2012 90 CSW, 2.2TDCI, Santorini Black |
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5th Dec 2021 8:28pm |
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| LandRoverAnorak Member Since: 17 Jul 2011 Location: Surrey Posts: 11240 
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Or make some better gaskets from thin rubber sheet:
Click image to enlarge Darren 110 USW BUILD THREAD - EXPEDITION TRAILER - 200tdi 90 BUILD THREAD - SANKEY TRAILER - IG@landroveranorak "You came in that thing? You're braver than I thought!" - Princess Leia |
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6th Dec 2021 7:38am |
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| lolo Member Since: 18 Jul 2021 Location: Vaud Posts: 118
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Thank you Darren, looks like to be a good solution and cheap solution as those gaskets are very expensive for what they are.
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6th Dec 2021 1:28pm |
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| lolo Member Since: 18 Jul 2021 Location: Vaud Posts: 118
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Happy holiday season to all โ๏ธ๐
Click image to enlarge |
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12th Dec 2021 8:29pm |
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| Supacat Member Since: 16 Oct 2012 Location: West Yorkshire Posts: 11018
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How thick is that? It almost looks like it's made from inner tube material? |
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13th Dec 2021 7:29am |
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| LandRoverAnorak Member Since: 17 Jul 2011 Location: Surrey Posts: 11240
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1mm, from memory. Can't remember where the material came from as I have a habit of storing odd bits of stuff away 'just in case'. Darren
110 USW BUILD THREAD - EXPEDITION TRAILER - 200tdi 90 BUILD THREAD - SANKEY TRAILER - IG@landroveranorak "You came in that thing? You're braver than I thought!" - Princess Leia |
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13th Dec 2021 8:03am |
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