 | Home > Puma (Tdci) > Constant Horn |
 
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| 110 John Member Since: 11 Jan 2014 Location: Northumberland Posts: 158   
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All seems fine bought another spare plipper off ebay programmed all three plippers ok
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15th Apr 2014 1:19pm |
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| VeeTee Member Since: 06 Mar 2011 Location: Somewhere Posts: 1512 
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May be buy a new keyboard with some punctuation marks?
 Cheers, Vincent
1959 Polynorm 1/4 Ton Trailer, Olive Drab Green (sold) 1970 M416 Military Trailer (Camping Trailer Conversion), Epsom Green (sold) 1975 Series III 88 V6, Light Green (sadly sold) 1996 Defender 110 CSW 300 Tdi, Epsom Green (sold) 2000 Freelander 1 TD4 3-drs, Silver (sold) 2006 Freelander 1 TD4 5-drs Facelift Automatic, Tonga Green (sold) MySite |
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15th Apr 2014 4:14pm |
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| 110 John Member Since: 11 Jan 2014 Location: Northumberland Posts: 158
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Thanks for the grammer lesson
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15th Apr 2014 4:20pm |
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| ken Member Since: 18 Aug 2009 Location: Banging Birds with my bitches !! Posts: 4328
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^
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15th Apr 2014 6:01pm |
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| XS Pete Member Since: 13 Jan 2011 Location: Suffolk Posts: 632  
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If your booster box is anything like mine (a Clarke item from Machine Mart), when selecting the engine start 'boost' switch position, the open circuit output voltage increases a lot. I've never opened it up to check but I'm assuming it does this using a different tapping on the transformer to provide a bit of extra drive voltage while cranking the engine, the load of which would normally partially collapse the voltage (put a multimeter across your battery and see how much it drops under normal cranking).
Anyway, from memory the instructions for mine tell you to only select the 'boost' position immediately before trying to start, and switch it back to normal immediately after. This is obviously because left on the boost setting providing 20-something volts to the whole system is not healthy. I don't want to put a downer on things, but I can't help thinking that if you left it like this for five hours, something may well have let go, hence the smell. Items such as the the charging circuit for the BBUS which is expecting 11~14 Volts, is probably not going to survive long at say, 22V (and nor will the batteries, depending on the intended charging regime). Also, other things like the 10AS which dim down the interior lights using a stepped open-collector output will not appreciate seeing double the voltage at the output, which may explain the strange behaviour you've seen. There may be more to this than meets the eye. Pete |
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16th Apr 2014 10:59am |
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| 110 John Member Since: 11 Jan 2014 Location: Northumberland Posts: 158
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I'll get it checked out but up till now seems ok just the Interia light when doors open not working but think it has a day light saving sensor I'll have to check it out properly when I get him Friday
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16th Apr 2014 11:08am |
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| 110 John Member Since: 11 Jan 2014 Location: Northumberland Posts: 158
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Not sure if it just increases the amps not voltage I'll test that with my multi meter yes it's the Clarks one I'm away from home so can't check that till friday
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16th Apr 2014 11:54am |
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| XS Pete Member Since: 13 Jan 2011 Location: Suffolk Posts: 632
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I think you'll find when you measure it, it does also increase. Ohm's law (V=IR) says the two are intimately linked. Looking at it very simplistically and transposing for I=V/R, assuming R (your load) is fixed, then any increase in I (the Current) requires a proportional increase in V (the Voltage). Pete |
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16th Apr 2014 1:02pm |
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| X4SKP Member Since: 29 Nov 2013 Location: Berkshire Posts: 2303 
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Hello All
I would guess this is a good thread to ask this question... I drove around in my 300tdi CSW 90 for 19 years, and on the very odd occasion I used the horn I was reminded how pathetic it sounded, I promised myself that I would get around to changing it probably going to my local breakers, where I would get a twin High + Low X Jaguar unit (or similar) and give the Defender something more suitable... I never changed it. So having now moved on to a 2010 2.4 tdci 90 I was surprised at its 1st MOT to hear that this looks to be one of those rare items that Land Rover must of over looked in its relentless drive forward to improve everything... it's still rubbish. I have resolved to change it and as separate from the Alarm Sounder feel free to get the horn the Def' deserves. What have you done? SKIP https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic83242.html |
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16th Apr 2014 6:54pm |
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| WelshGas Member Since: 01 Oct 2010 Location: Vale of Glamorgan Posts: 935  
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Mines plenty loud, and the neighbours would agree also. 2010my, Defender 90 XS.
 LANDYWATCH
Neighbourhood Watch for Land Rover Owners http://www.landywatch.co.uk/smf2/index.php |
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16th Apr 2014 7:10pm |
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| ericvv Member Since: 02 Jun 2011 Location: Near the Jet d'Eau Posts: 5816  
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LR install different horns on Pumas, depending on the model. The horn on my SVX 110 SW is really impressive, but once I was visiting ABP in the port of Immingham, and they showed me their facilities in a standard spec Puma 110 SW, and that horn was just a poot poot embarrasment.
 You never actually own a Defender. You merely look after it for the next generation.
http://youtu.be/yVRlSsJwD0o https://youtu.be/vmPr3oTHndg https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_GtzTT9Pdl0 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ABqKPz28e6A https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rLZ49Jce_n0 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XvAsz_ilQYU https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K8tMHiX9lSw https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=dxwjPuHIV7I https://vimeo.com/201482507 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZSixqL0iyHw |
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16th Apr 2014 8:07pm |
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| 110 John Member Since: 11 Jan 2014 Location: Northumberland Posts: 158
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When I look at it now it wasnt my normal horn it was my alarm twin horns that activated, I checked with my Nanocom and it was set for contant sounding not intermittant, seems i changed the setting with out realising it I will have to put it back to intermittant later today
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18th Apr 2014 7:21am |
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| 110 John Member Since: 11 Jan 2014 Location: Northumberland Posts: 158
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Low and behold this morning the alarm horn started again continuous not the usual intermittant alarm sound the alarm wasnt on and doors were unlocked ,but started with a flicking off and on then went continuous, stopped after a while then started continous again had to pull the fuse ,under the seat to kill it so the problem is still there
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24th May 2014 10:22am |
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| martinfiattech Member Since: 13 Nov 2013 Location: leicester Posts: 422
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Boost starters are a very dangerous piece of equipment, if you have left it connected for the stated length of time.
You have more than lightly damaged one or more of the vehicles ecu`s. Have you given the ecu nodes a sniff to see if they are burnt Have you tried to code read any of the vehicles ecu nodes. Do any of these show a over voltage code. abs does`ent like to much power, thank your lucky stars it does`ent have an air bag that would be fried by now you might want to get the battery and charging system tested, just in case. I have a snap on 400 amp boost starter charger, which on starter has an open circuit of 16 vdc, under cranking it can give up to18 vdc. It now has a built in anti zapper, just in case. I know for I fact if you leave a fiat ducato on boost for more than a few mins the body computer / air bag ecu is dead, god bless CAN systems. And stupid motorhome owners............ Excuse the spelling I`am better with spanners and wires. |
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24th May 2014 11:13am |
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