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shaggydog

Member Since: 12 Aug 2012
Location: Kent
Posts: 3346

1991 Defender 110 200 Tdi USW Arles Blue

Awesome news

What about the old battery though? Running Restoration Thread http://www.defender2.net/forum/post323197.html#323197

Self confessed mileage hunter

22nd Dec 2014 7:43pm

Cupboard

Member Since: 21 Mar 2014
Location: Suffolk
Posts: 2971

2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 HT Corris Grey

shaggydog wrote:

Quote:
The only other thing I can think of is going back to the alternator, you could try testing the resistance of the coils and the wiring, if the diode fails then it wil draw current back from the battery with the engine off. I have come across this before but never as an intermittent fault. Just a thought, fingers crossed.

I'm not sure I have coils as its a diesel But could stand corrected! How would I test that?

coils in the alternator

A magnet (whether permanent or an electromagnet) spins inside a load of coils of wire. The coils are very tight and have thin insulation on them so can develop faults. The spinning magnet creates an oscillating ~ positive/negative (AC) wave centred on zero which isn't much good for charging a battery, so a collection of diodes is used in a rectifier circuit to make the "negatives" positive.

A diode is like an electrical check valve, only allowing current in one direction. With just one diode you get just the positive humps (so half power), with 4 you can get the negative humps as well. Typically alternators have more than one set of windings so that as the power from one set is decaying, another is coming up to its peak. That way you don't get so much ripple.

Edit to add: in a car, the magnet is usually an electromagnet. That requires current to flow through it in order to produce a magnetic field that then induces a current in the stator (the non-spinny-bit).

Last edited by Cupboard on 22nd Dec 2014 7:51pm. Edited 1 time in total

22nd Dec 2014 7:44pm

K9F

Member Since: 12 Nov 2009
Location: Bournemouth
Posts: 9610

2008 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Stornoway Grey

Read my post about possible battery regeneration 3 pages ago.....Or simply bin it.

If you go through life with your head in the sand....all people will see is an ar5e!!

Treat every day as if it is your last....one day you will be right!!

22nd Dec 2014 7:46pm

shaggydog

Member Since: 12 Aug 2012
Location: Kent
Posts: 3346

Quote:
What i ment was sometimes if the alternator is faulty in a certain way then the dash battery light can glow faintly even when engine not running , ign off and you can only see it at night in the dark its that faint

Just gone out in the dark and had a look and everything is dark with not the faintest glimmer from anything on the dashboard.

Quote:
coils in the alternator

Interesting didn't realise that

K9F will have a read and make a decision

Thanks again chaps!

Running Restoration Thread http://www.defender2.net/forum/post323197.html#323197

Self confessed mileage hunter

22nd Dec 2014 7:54pm

munch90

Member Since: 26 Oct 2013
Location: guildford
Posts: 3558

To be honest the thing of flushing batterys out is really from years ago when the individual cells were connected by lead links on top and cells could be removed from the outer casing as they were sealed in with pitch

not really worth the hassle now days as there in glued plastic casings as it would be near impossible to clear out sediment from the bottom

Give it a good charge and keep it topped up if its still got abit of life in it as a jump battery just in case , use it for a 12v lead light when working outside, in workshop for testing bulbs etc

but if it gos flat bin it , not worth mucking about with

you can get a tube of tablets called bat-aid that are ment to give a battery new lease of life , i have used them , do they work not a bl@@dly clue !
But it was worth a try on a bank of fork lift batterys that it wasnt worth buying a new pack for , and yes its still going so maybe ????

22nd Dec 2014 8:17pm

shaggydog

Member Since: 12 Aug 2012
Location: Kent
Posts: 3346

I will leave it on charge tonight so its had a full 24 hours to recharge, if it doesn't hold its power I'll drop it off at my local recycler.

I don't want to risk gassing myself or the dog or being splashed with acid - I have a good working replacement so if it doesn't hold charge its dead. Running Restoration Thread http://www.defender2.net/forum/post323197.html#323197

Self confessed mileage hunter

22nd Dec 2014 8:38pm

yostumpy

Member Since: 01 Aug 2010
Location: n/kent
Posts: 327

shaggydog wrote:

Just gone out in the dark and had a look and everything is dark with not the faintest glimmer from anything on the dashboard.

Ah but did you feel the new battery to see if it was warm?

22nd Dec 2014 10:33pm

jst

Member Since: 14 Jan 2008
Location: Taunton
Posts: 7688

2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Stornoway Grey

What's the voltage across battery engine running Cheers

James
110 XS Utility
130 Puma Station wagon/camper (in the making)
90 Puma Hardtop

23rd Dec 2014 8:20am

shaggydog

Member Since: 12 Aug 2012
Location: Kent
Posts: 3346

Just checked the battery and was same temp as rest of vehicle so all is well there.

Voltages are as follows:

12.64 - engine off, everything else off.

13.64 - engine on tick over , everything else off

13.80 - engine on revved then on tick over

13.45 - engine on tick over high beams on

13.50 - engine on tick over low beams on

13.14 - engine off everything off, voltage slowly dropping back to 12.64

Did debate testing the amps but I'm not sure my multimeter would take that kind of power. Running Restoration Thread http://www.defender2.net/forum/post323197.html#323197

Self confessed mileage hunter

23rd Dec 2014 3:02pm

dorsetsmith

Member Since: 30 Oct 2011
Location: South West
Posts: 4554

That looks good to my and your alternator 45 to 50 amps output to much amp of your multimeter 10 amps max

23rd Dec 2014 3:37pm

Cupboard

Member Since: 21 Mar 2014
Location: Suffolk
Posts: 2971

to measure that sort of current you'd be looking at a clamp meter:
http://cpc.farnell.com/tenma/72-9480/multi...dp/IN06560

23rd Dec 2014 4:56pm

munch90

Member Since: 26 Oct 2013
Location: guildford
Posts: 3558

shaggydog wrote:
Just checked the battery and was same temp as rest of vehicle so all is well there.

Voltages are as follows:

12.64 - engine off, everything else off.

13.64 - engine on tick over , everything else off

13.80 - engine on revved then on tick over

13.45 - engine on tick over high beams on

13.50 - engine on tick over low beams on

13.14 - engine off everything off, voltage slowly dropping back to 12.64

Did debate testing the amps but I'm not sure my multimeter would take that kind of power.

all looks about right

don't test amps with your meter

23rd Dec 2014 6:56pm

shaggydog

Member Since: 12 Aug 2012
Location: Kent
Posts: 3346

Thanks chaps for all your help

Running Restoration Thread http://www.defender2.net/forum/post323197.html#323197

Self confessed mileage hunter

23rd Dec 2014 7:58pm

jst

Member Since: 14 Jan 2008
Location: Taunton
Posts: 7688

shaggydog wrote:
Just checked the battery and was same temp as rest of vehicle so all is well there.

Voltages are as follows:

12.64 - engine off, everything else off.

13.64 - engine on tick over , everything else off

13.80 - engine on revved then on tick over

13.45 - engine on tick over high beams on

13.50 - engine on tick over low beams on

13.14 - engine off everything off, voltage slowly dropping back to 12.64

Did debate testing the amps but I'm not sure my multimeter would take that kind of power.

alt is all good then it seems. Cheers

James
110 XS Utility
130 Puma Station wagon/camper (in the making)
90 Puma Hardtop

2nd Jan 2015 8:03pm

shaggydog

Member Since: 12 Aug 2012
Location: Kent
Posts: 3346

Seems to be

Touch wood new battery seems to have cured it.

Thing I notice most is the lights on the dash seem to glow brighter having changed it.

Still, for now, mischief managed thanks again for all your help

Running Restoration Thread http://www.defender2.net/forum/post323197.html#323197

Self confessed mileage hunter

2nd Jan 2015 9:02pm

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