 | Home > Modifications & Maintenance (L663) > Anyone fitted a split charge dual battery |
 
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| Moo Member Since: 01 Oct 2021 Location: Bath Posts: 1035  
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Looking good.
 Eiger Grey MY23 D250 SE with bits. Known as Noddy. |
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23rd Oct 2023 11:04pm |
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| JackW Member Since: 10 Jan 2017 Location: Roswell, Georgia Posts: 110  
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 Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge A little more progress - battery mount completed, floor panels cut, pieces for the upper cage support cut. Need to get about six more feet of 3/4" square steel tubing and weld some more of the frame together. Click image to enlarge Big AGM battery - weighs 67 pounds. Click image to enlarge |
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27th Oct 2023 12:17am |
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| Moo Member Since: 01 Oct 2021 Location: Bath Posts: 1035
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That's proper engineering!
Any reason you didn't go for a lithium battery. It's much lighter? Eiger Grey MY23 D250 SE with bits. Known as Noddy. |
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27th Oct 2023 8:34am |
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| JackW Member Since: 10 Jan 2017 Location: Roswell, Georgia Posts: 110
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Lithium was too expensive and this battery will also be used to power the winch through the Redarc relay. I'm not sure lithium batteries are suitable for that kind of load.
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27th Oct 2023 1:10pm |
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| Moo Member Since: 01 Oct 2021 Location: Bath Posts: 1035
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My current thinking is to put a dual purpose battery under the bonnet (hood) linked to a split charge and Lensun solar panel on the bonnet through MPPT controller. I then plan to fit a 200ah lithium battery in the rear via a DC-DC charger from the main battery.
With this is I will have two cranking batteries and a leisure battery to power everything. It'll be charged either with the engine or solar if camped for a while. It should give me enough to deal with most situations. I might also get a power bank with solar when we need light and power away from the car. Eiger Grey MY23 D250 SE with bits. Known as Noddy. |
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27th Oct 2023 3:36pm |
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| Lightwater Member Since: 28 Jun 2020 Location: Sydney NB Posts: 61 
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Don't put a battery in the engine bay unless it can be isolated from heat & well ventilated, otherwise it will have a short life. Visitor - Freelander owner
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28th Oct 2023 4:59am |
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| Moo Member Since: 01 Oct 2021 Location: Bath Posts: 1035
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It should be fine. I was going to put it in the same place as this. Go to 7.16 in the video.
&t=196s I've run both D3 and D4 with second batteries in the engine bay and they've been fine. Eiger Grey MY23 D250 SE with bits. Known as Noddy. |
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28th Oct 2023 11:51am |
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| aajr Member Since: 18 Dec 2022 Location: San Diego Posts: 32
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Nicely done. I've been planning using this area for a second battery, but I might change what I had in mind for the platform to something similar to what you have done. Thank you for posting, interested in seeing more. |
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28th Oct 2023 11:13pm |
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| JackW Member Since: 10 Jan 2017 Location: Roswell, Georgia Posts: 110
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I'm adding some upper framework to the platform as well to have separate compartments for the stuff I want to carry under the rear floor like recovery gear, my Viair portable air pump, an old school Rover bottle jack in addition to the stock scissor jack and a first aid kit. The frame will also be where mount the Redarc components and the fuses - stay tuned as it will be a combination of metal working and woodworking that is probably way more complicated than it needs to be. I have a Land Rover event next weekend to prepare for so it may be a few days before I can make any progress reports but I'll keep it updated as it comes together. Its got to look cool as well as be functional.
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29th Oct 2023 3:58am |
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| JackW Member Since: 10 Jan 2017 Location: Roswell, Georgia Posts: 110
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Click image to enlarge Got the frame all welded up today - need to paint it and skin it wit the 1/2" Baltic birch plywood. It's divided into three sections and has a ledge for an old Range Rover bottle jack. The Redarc bits will mount to the outside of the frame leaving the interior for a battery compartment, a space for the Viair compressor kit and the factory scissor jack and a recovery strap |
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31st Oct 2023 9:33pm |
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| Moo Member Since: 01 Oct 2021 Location: Bath Posts: 1035
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That really is coming together nicely
I don't suppose you have any drawings and dimensions etc you'd be willing to share would you? 🙏 Eiger Grey MY23 D250 SE with bits. Known as Noddy. |
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31st Oct 2023 9:47pm |
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| JackW Member Since: 10 Jan 2017 Location: Roswell, Georgia Posts: 110
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Be glad to once I get it all assembled - its still very much a figure it out as I go along work in progress. So far I've used about 22' of thin wall 3/4" square steel tubing. I have a friend who is a much better welder than I am. We've spent about 3-1/2 hours welding this thing together - hope it fits.. I'll find out tomorrow. A reminder - my car is a P300 with none of the MHEV system back in the underfloor area.
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31st Oct 2023 11:17pm |
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| Moo Member Since: 01 Oct 2021 Location: Bath Posts: 1035
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Thanks. I forgot you had a P300 but I'm sure there will be enough similarities.
Fingers crossed it all fits. Eiger Grey MY23 D250 SE with bits. Known as Noddy. |
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1st Nov 2023 1:40am |
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| aajr Member Since: 18 Dec 2022 Location: San Diego Posts: 32
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Excellent work. Interested in seeing where exactly you are going to put the Redarc stuff. I have mocked up a skeleton, and I'm not sure how you are able to get as low in the back as you are without interfering with the wiring harness at the back of the trunk and the control module that sits in front of the air compressor for the air bags, specially if you are trying to keep your platform level. I know you said you did some slight rerouting of the wiring harness, but even doing that I cannot get that low without rubbing the harness.
Doesn't seem like too much time welding at all. The V8's (which is what I have) have the same set up back there, which is why I am very interested in what you are doing. On the V8, the vertical spacing decreases from the front to the back (it slopes towards the back with respect to where the removable floor sits) by something like 1/2 inch. Is that the same for the P300? |
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1st Nov 2023 3:03am |
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