 | Home > Td5 > Retrofit puma doors on base spec td5 |
 
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| ROBBONTHEROCK Member Since: 23 Jun 2014 Location: Aberdeenshire Posts: 637   
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Sorry, I'm' not much help, but I'm planning on a similar conversion myself in the not too distant future.
Gonna keep an eye on this 
Cheers Andy |
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15th Aug 2014 10:06am |
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| rallysteve Member Since: 10 Feb 2014 Location: Cumbria Posts: 2201  
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You will need the following:
Front door wiring looms (with rubber boots) - These should connect to the window motor and c/l actuators and provide wiring into the bulkhead. You then need to run the wiring from the door pillar/bulkhead around into the back of the dashboard. You will then need terminals to connect the C/L actuator (four from memory) into the 10AS alarm unit (these are AMP multilock 070 connectors (terminals available online). Your 10AS unit might not support C/L though so you will also need either one that does (and it programming) or buy the bits to modify (solder) into you existing one. For the elec windows you shall also require 2x switches (I have used earlier discovery ones which look identical but take standard female blade terminals on the back rather than the AMP 5way housings. These will need to be supplied by a new fused supply (ignition fed). If you have factory heated seats you might already have a relay and wiring into the fuse board. If not you will have to find a new supply. As you have a TD5 without the centre dash I am assuming you will have to make/fabricate a bracket somewhere to fit the switches (maybe in a cubby box like the FCX ones) or try and source the switch housing from a NAS spec defender. Hope this helps, Steve 02' 110 TD5 Double Cab Rebuild Thread 84' 90 3.9 V8 Caged Pickup Build Thread - Now For Sale |
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15th Aug 2014 11:55am |
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| Macpaul Member Since: 26 Mar 2013 Location: SW Surrey Posts: 439 
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I did exactly this - or at least asked Ian at IRB to do it, having provided the bits.
I got a second-hand loom from an XS (off ebay) together with a second hand *280 10AS, and Ian took the rest of the hardware off the donor doors. I needed window switches; heated screen switch (Ian connected the heated mirrors to this so they came on in tandem); screen (best is Landyglass) etc, etc. Fitted Waeco heated seat panels as well. Because it was all genuine, it all went together easily. Once the dash was off......... It's a fair-sized project, but having these things really transformed the usability of the car, especially in winter. Hope this is not too frightening and as I say, Ian did it!  2003 Td5 110 Hardtop
Now a 2013 110 USW too. |
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15th Aug 2014 12:00pm |
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| JR Member Since: 07 Dec 2012 Location: Auchtermuchty Posts: 532 
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You could speak to I AM Driver, Mark from Edinburgh as he's just done this. Well at least fitted the doors, I'm not sure how much else he had to do too.
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15th Aug 2014 12:31pm |
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| gilarion Member Since: 05 Dec 2013 Location: Wales Posts: 5084  
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You cannot run the door loom into the back of the dash from the A pillars inside the cab. You have to do so from the other side of the bulkhead. From the engine bulkhead right in the top corners at the side of the wings you will find on each side a small square hole at the top of the A pillar, you need to feed the door wiring looms through the A pillars inside the cab where there are similar holes just under the door retainer using a fish wire and then out through the bulkhead suare holes and intoi the dash using the grommets The drivers side square hole is quite easy to get at but the passenger side is a sod owing to the heater being there, so you are working blind on that one. Last edited by gilarion on 15th Aug 2014 12:41pm. Edited 1 time in total |
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15th Aug 2014 12:37pm |
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| rallysteve Member Since: 10 Feb 2014 Location: Cumbria Posts: 2201
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Thanks, that was what I was trying to say but a little clearer
Steve 02' 110 TD5 Double Cab Rebuild Thread 84' 90 3.9 V8 Caged Pickup Build Thread - Now For Sale |
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15th Aug 2014 12:41pm |
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| gilarion Member Since: 05 Dec 2013 Location: Wales Posts: 5084
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Hope this helps
Electric WINDOWS DESCRIPTION Introduction Defender is now fitted with electric front windows, which operate when the ignition switch is turned to the 'ignition' position. The window lift switches are non-latching, and are located on the fascia console. OPERATION Power Distribution Feed from the positive battery terminal (C0192) is supplied to fusible link 1 and fusible link 5 of the passenger compartment fuse box (C0632) on an N wire. Fusible link 1 is connected in series with fusible link 3, which is also located in the under seat fuse box. Fusible link 3 (C0571) provides a constant battery feed to the ignition relay (C0218) on an NR wire. Fusible link 5 (C0570) provides a constant battery feed to the ignition switch (C1043 on LHD, C0028 on RHD) on an NW wire. When the ignition switch is turned to the 'ignition' position, current flows across the switch (C1732 on LHD, C0094 on RHD) to fuse 15 of the passenger compartment fuse box (C0580) on a W wire. Fuse 15 (C0580) provides an ignition feed to the ignition relay coil (C0218) on an LGP wire. The relay coil (C0218) is earthed on a B wire. RH Window The energised ignition relay (C0218) provides a feed to fuse 34 of the passenger compartment fuse box (C0595) on an NS wire. Fuse 34 (C0595) is connected to the RH window switch (C0242) by an SO wire. Up When the window switch is moved to the 'Up' position, current flows across the switch (C0242) to the RH window lift motor (C0326) on an OR then R wire. The window lift motor (C0326) is provided an earth path via the window switch (C0242) on a U then OU then B wire. The window lift motor is now able to power the window up. Down When the window switch is moved to the 'Down' position, current flows across the switch (C0242) to the RH window lift motor (C0326) on an OU then U wire. The window lift motor (C0326) is provided an earth path via the window switch (C0242) on an R then OR then B wire. The window lift motor is now able to power the window down. DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION 4.12 DEFENDER 02MY LH Window The energised ignition relay (C0218) provides a feed to fuse 35 of the passenger compartment fuse box (C0595) on an NS wire. Fuse 35 (C0595) is connected to the LH window switch (C0321) by an RG wire. Up When the window switch is moved to the 'Up' position, current flows across the switch (C0321) to the LH window lift motor (C0326) on an R wire. The window lift motor (C0326) is provided an earth path via the window switch (C0321) on a U then B wire. The window lift motor is now able to power the window up. Down When the window switch is moved to the 'Down' position, current flows across the switch (C0321) to the LH window lift motor (C0326) on a U wire. The window lift motor (C0326) is provided an earth path via the window switch (C0321) on an R then B wire. The window lift motor is now able to power the window down. Electric Windows The factory switches swap the positive and negative polarities to the window motors (there's no Window ECU in the Defender) the switches switch the motors directly, here's the description of how they work -All the 2002 switches, except the Hazard Warning Switch, are not suitable for switching loads directly - use them to switch relays. Two ways of doing it, firstly you can replicate the standard wiring: (Remember pin numbers are looking at the end of the connector, as if you were the switch) For the front electric windows, there are no relays as standard. The power is run directly through the switches to the motors, and comes from fuse 34 for the RH window and fuse 35 for the LH window. Power is supplied to both these fuses from the ignition relay on a brown/slate wire (4.00mm² - should already be present as I believe it feeds many other fuses - just needs extending to feed the two empty slots). From fuse 34 a slate/orange wire (2.00mm²) runs to pin 2 of the driver's E/W switch. Then an orange/red wire (1.50mm²) comes from pin 4 and feeds one side of the electric window motor. If you use the standard in-door looms then this needs to connect to the red wire on the RH door motor. The orange/blue wire from pin 3 on the E/W switch (also 1.50mm²) connects to the blue wire in the door loom. There is a black wire (1.50mm²) from pin 1 on the switch which is an earth path, it goes to header 0287 but earth it where you like! The passenger's window is very similar. A red/green (2.00mm²) wire feeds the switch on pin 2 and there is another earth (1.50mm²) on pin 1 to the same header as before. The feeds for the motor are on pins 3 and 4 as before, and use a blue wire and a red wire respectively (both 1.50mm²). These connect directly to the red and blue wires in the door loom. Both E/W switches have illumination provided to pin 6 on a red/orange wire (0.5mm²). Take this from the illumination header (0290) behind the centre console. For what it's worth, I'm planning on doing this method as I have gotten hold of a high-spec Td5 loom and I am stripping all the wires, connectors etc. out of it and I will splice these into my ROW-spec loom. The other option is as you say to use your own wiring. I wouldn't bother with relays as the switches are designed for the load and you just add unnecessary wiring. You will need: ■Two 20A fused supplies (one for RH and one for LH window) in your aux fusebox. ■Some wiring (preferably four colours, red and blue, black and another for the feed). ■Feed both the switches on pin 2. ■Run pin 3 of each switch to the blue wire in the door loom. ■Run pin 4 of each switch to the red wire in the door loom. ■Provide an earth path on pin 1. ■Illumination on pin 6 if you desire. ■Use either 1.5mm² or 2.0mm² throughout (except for the illumination feed which is 0.5mm²). ■Terminal 1 - Fused Live IN ■Terminal 2 - Dash Illumination ■Terminal 3 - Not Used ■Terminal 4 - Switched Live OUT (to Relay) ■Terminal 5 – Earth There are no relays in the Defender's Electric Window circuit, the switches do the switching directly. Make sure you have the later switches, part number YUF101521LNF . Power is fed from battery into the door (20 amps fuse box satellite through ignition relay) on the driver’s side. This is transferred through the control panel for the window switch to a contact point located at the middle of the switch of each of four windows Last edited by gilarion on 15th Aug 2014 12:55pm. Edited 1 time in total |
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15th Aug 2014 12:45pm |
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| gilarion Member Since: 05 Dec 2013 Location: Wales Posts: 5084
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Just remembered that LRM with the help of Mobile Centre did a feature on Defender Electric windows with lots of pictures and talk through guides
have a look here http://www.mobilecentre.co.uk/images/Data_...indows.pdf http://issuu.com/mobilecentre/docs/lrm_electric_windows |
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15th Aug 2014 12:53pm |
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| Fozzauk Member Since: 05 Feb 2014 Location: Derbyshire Posts: 268 
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Thanks for all the help guys! I am trying to source the 10as unit does anyone have a part number as my local dealer looked at me gone out when I asked him for one?
I want to make sure I have everything needed before stripping out the dash etc. |
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15th Aug 2014 9:28pm |
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| Macpaul Member Since: 26 Mar 2013 Location: SW Surrey Posts: 439
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I bought a YWC 106280 unit for which I paid £34.50 inc p&p last year. 2003 Td5 110 Hardtop
Now a 2013 110 USW too. |
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15th Aug 2014 9:36pm |
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| diesel_jim Member Since: 13 Oct 2008 Location: hiding Posts: 6041 
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Or use a normal non CDL unit (number ends in 70 I think), and solder in an NEC EP2-3L1ST relay, which is all the difference there is between the CDL and non CDL units.
Trouble is, trying to get hold of one of those relays! |
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16th Aug 2014 2:51pm |
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| PaulMc Member Since: 17 Jan 2009 Location: Kent Posts: 488 
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I have the NEC relays, and the varistor that's soldered across the relay's output contacts -
I also have the additional terminals for the 10AS connectors, you will require - 2 x 070 terminals for the Green connector (C0057) 1 x 040 terminal for the Grey connector (C0061) Click image to enlarge I can also supply a kit of the central locking/electric windows connectors to mate with the late TD5/TDCi front door harnesses -
As well as central locking connector kits to mate with the 2nd-row doors harnesses -
And tail door harness -
I currently have a small stock of the White 6-way connectors to fit the electric windows switches (YUF101521LNF) - Click image to enlarge You can also use the Discovery-1 (300Tdi)/RR Classic (Soft Dash) electric windows switches AMR2496 - Click image to enlarge Which can be connected using 6.3mm Lucar terminals - although, I currently have some of the proper connectors for these as well 
. Admin note: this post has had its images recovered from a money grabbing photo hosting site and reinstated  Paul.
1989 Arles Blue 2.5TD 110 Hardtop 1999 Epsom Green Discovery II 4.0 V8i 'XS' Last edited by PaulMc on 19th Dec 2015 12:07pm. Edited 3 times in total |
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16th Aug 2014 3:47pm |
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| Fozzauk Member Since: 05 Feb 2014 Location: Derbyshire Posts: 268
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Hi Paul,
Could you please pm me a price for the connector kit. I think I am going to use the carling switches for the windows so won't need the switches. Thanks Ben |
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17th Aug 2014 8:10am |
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| I.AM_a driver Member Since: 11 Jun 2009 Location: Edinburgh, Scotland Posts: 404 
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I did indeed, however the 90 already had central locking and electric windows, all I had to do was swap the bits over onto the new doors as they were manual windows & manual locks! I did a short writeup in the 'My Defender' section, it's on page four of THIS THREAD. The puma doors are a direct fit on the Td5 (and were fitted to late Td5s 2006 MY) it's the addition of electric windows & central locking that makes it more tricky. Mark S CONVOY for HEROES www.facebook.com/convoy4heroes www.lothian4x4response.org ------ Td5 90 Thread in 'My Defender' Forum |
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17th Aug 2014 8:52pm |
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