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blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 16857

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
Out of interest, can you tell me the weight of the cage? I was thinking it might be marked on the crate/pallet. I'd like to fit one to mine but as I kerb at about 2700kg already I'm a little concerned at the GVW.

Also I know that SD supply the cages as black powder-coated as standard but is there any coating inside the tubes? Do people rust-protect the inside before fitting (I've never heard it mentioned)? How durable I'd the powder-coat, given that most powder-coated LR accessories seems to rust enthusiastically?
Post #968687 22nd Oct 2022 11:13pm
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bodstruck



Member Since: 09 May 2020
Location: Wiltshire
Posts: 774

United Kingdom 
The consignment weight was 182kg but that includes the pallet. A fair chunk.

I did worry about this as we were trying to lug it onto the garage.

Add that to the weight of the winch and bumper, towbar, wheel carrier, dog guard, storage cages in the rear it creeps up. Then there is the fridge, recovery gear etc when on trips. Oh yes, and people. I have no idea how much that is all going to weigh Shocked
Post #968691 22nd Oct 2022 11:31pm
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blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 16857

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
Thank you, much appreciated. Any thoughts on the rust resistance of the cage?
Post #968700 23rd Oct 2022 7:35am
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bodstruck



Member Since: 09 May 2020
Location: Wiltshire
Posts: 774

United Kingdom 
I have not unwrapped it yet so can't tell what the inside of the tubes is like. I do share your concerns on the powdercoat though.

I had P&P one a while ago which I bought second hand. That had a few rusty tubes that I had to get blasted and re coated. And powdercoat in general is definitely off my Christmas card list. Lovely finish when new but a devil to touch up and if water get underneath then it is a right pain.

I think you can specify a SD cage in bare metal which could then be painted instead.

Feels like come cavity wax inside would not harm but hopefully someone who has had one installed for a while could better vouch for their long term prospects.
Post #968702 23rd Oct 2022 7:57am
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blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 16857

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
I was thinking cavity wax before installation (or the bare metal option followed by hot dip galv - and that's another 30kg!)
Post #968704 23rd Oct 2022 8:40am
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bodstruck



Member Since: 09 May 2020
Location: Wiltshire
Posts: 774

United Kingdom 
Half term last week so as I had taken the week off and the kids were intent on monging themselves to death I had a little time to crack on with a few jobs.

As ever when you start big jobs, there are other things that need to be done and other things you would like to do but have to accept it will be a job for another day. The concurrent tasks were to fit as many of the new toys as possible. Priority was the out of sight work for the cage so at least I could get it driving again, I didn't want it off the road too long, been there before with the td5.

By the time this brief write-up is complete I will have done the following:

Cage install
RAI install
Inlet manifold clean and new seals
EGR blanked
Rear swingaway carrier fitted
Rear towbar replaced with 2" receiver
Rock sliders with tree bars
Double din facia and android stereo fitted
New seals on the heater blower
Oil and filters change
New stainless floor screws
Roof insulated
Chassis and body cavity wax
Roof console fitted

I did intend to do a detailed write up of the cage install but to be honest, I ended up being a bit to preoccupied with actually doing the job. This will be the 'greatest hits' but if anyone needs anymore detail just shout. I have more pics and scars are still fresh Smile

The cage comes well packaged. All well strapped and wrapped.


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I started with what I considered to be the scariest bit - the front wing supports. OS was fairly straightforward - I could access all the screws to remove the outer skin.


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Whilst at it I removed the sill ready for the rock sliders later.


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I also removed the std induction pipework in preparation for the RAI. The pipe was OK but the airbox is a pain to remove. Installation was even worse but more on that in a bit.


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The NS was impossible. I could get to all but one screw which was just forward of the heater inlet duct. I tried everything and just could not get to it. In the end I removed the whole wing. This served a second purpose as it gave me better access to remove the heater blower.


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Marked out and cut the first holes in the wing


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Then on to the rear tub


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C post internals fitted


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D post internals


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and the bits below ground connecting to the rear crossmember. With liberal application of waxoly all round while I could still get to it.


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Post #969568 31st Oct 2022 8:27pm
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bodstruck



Member Since: 09 May 2020
Location: Wiltshire
Posts: 774

United Kingdom 
The cage supports are all now fitted with the clamp plates on the outside but I'll need to take some daylight pics of that. Next job for the cage is the internal B hoop and then the external bits.

In the meantime, some other jobs.

The EGR has been disabled with a BAS remap but I had not physically blanked it. While the wing was off access was better so a straightforward job. Still tight though so hats off to those that do it with everything still in the way Bow down


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I suspected the inlet manifold was going t be mucky so removed that and cleaned up.


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and refitted with new seals.

There was a leak into the passenger footwell which I traced to the heater to bulkhead lower seal. I bought that and the seal that joins the blower to the intake from the local LR dealer, cheaper than other suppliers and next day supply. Still £47 for 2 bits of foam Shocked


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RAI install is underway but I'll group the pics of that together later. This evenings job (well, start of anyway) is the new stereo. I have opted for an Atoto S8 double din. The new facia was sourced from facebook.


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Next job is to cut the dash for the new switch panel and then rejig the wiring. I am hoping that I can unwrap the loom, separate the wires required, re-wrap in loom tape and then plug in. I'd rather not get the soldering iron out if I can help it.
Post #969571 31st Oct 2022 8:38pm
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bodstruck



Member Since: 09 May 2020
Location: Wiltshire
Posts: 774

United Kingdom 
Roll cage clamp plates on the outside:


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Stereo is now all fitted but too dark for pics, they will follow.

Last night and today (whilst dodging the rain) was fitting the Safari Equipment wheel carrier. I confess I thought it would be easier, turned out to be a bit of a pain. Anyhow, done now:


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I didn't like the fact that the heater inlet duct was open and filling with rubbish and water. I cleaned out all the drain holes while the wing was off and they were very bunged up. Snow cowl now fitted:


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and finally for now, the Nakatanenga snorkel. I wanted to get the car roadworthy again so rather than wait for the cage install to finish I fitted it to the screen frame and will move it later. Not that impressed with the duct routing. I would have preferred to go around the back of the brake servo but the pipe was about 30cm too short. I think I will order a longer pipe and re-do it at some point but for now it is routed in front of the servo which puts a considerable bend in it and also runs it very close to the turbo. Overall, very pleased with both the look and function of this, and I would hope so for 400 notes Shocked . Even using the stock airbox it is fully sealed (have tested it).


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Next job is the internal B-hoop for the cage. I think I may need to remove the rear seats for this and I will need an extra pair of hands so not likely to happen this weekend. Once that is done I can fit the external bits of the cage Thumbs Up .

Bit our of sequence but while the wings were off I thought I had perfect access tot eh A-pillars so got the waxoly and poky hose extension thing and went to town on doing all of the body and chassis cavities.


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Last edited by bodstruck on 11th Nov 2022 6:37pm. Edited 1 time in total
Post #970081 5th Nov 2022 11:19pm
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blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 16857

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
That's a lot of good work done Thumbs Up

That looks like the standard (non-roll-cage) version of the Nak RAI rather than the cage version, is this not going to give you a problem when you fit the front hoop?
Post #970083 6th Nov 2022 12:21am
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bodstruck



Member Since: 09 May 2020
Location: Wiltshire
Posts: 774

United Kingdom 
Thanks.

It is the standard version. I knew I wanted a cage at some point but bought the snorkel first. One of the many reasons I chose that one was that it would be reasonably easy to mod. Having chatted to Brendan at 4x4 overlander it seems that the bracket is the only thing different. The cage version is fixed with jubilee clips so I am confident I can make it fit. Plenty of scope for movement in the flexible pipe and worse case scenario lop bit of the wing top tube.

That is the theory anyway Smile
Post #970084 6th Nov 2022 12:47am
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LandRoverAnorak



Member Since: 17 Jul 2011
Location: Surrey
Posts: 11240

United Kingdom 2013 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 USW Orkney Grey
bodstruck wrote:
and finally for now, the Nakatanenga snorkel. I wanted to get the car roadworthy again so rather that wait for the cage install to finish I fitted it to the screen frame and will move it later. Not that impressed with the duct routing. I would have preferred to go around the back of the brake servo but the pipe was about 30cm too short. I think I will order a longer pipe and re-do it at some point but for now it is routed in front of the servo which puts a considerable bend in it and also runs it very close to the turbo.


I ran mine in the same way although I shortened the pipe slightly, which seemed to give a bit more clearance. It's been fine for two and a half years:


Click image to enlarge

I did wonder whether behind the servo would have been preferrable but only after I'd shortened the pipe! Interesting to see that it wouldn't have worked, anyway. Darren

110 USW BUILD THREAD - EXPEDITION TRAILER - 200tdi 90 BUILD THREAD - SANKEY TRAILER - IG@landroveranorak

"You came in that thing? You're braver than I thought!" - Princess Leia
Post #970100 6th Nov 2022 10:14am
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blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 16857

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
bodstruck wrote:
Thanks.

It is the standard version. I knew I wanted a cage at some point but bought the snorkel first. One of the many reasons I chose that one was that it would be reasonably easy to mod. Having chatted to Brendan at 4x4 overlander it seems that the bracket is the only thing different. The cage version is fixed with jubilee clips so I am confident I can make it fit. Plenty of scope for movement in the flexible pipe and worse case scenario lop bit of the wing top tube.

That is the theory anyway Smile


I was in much the same situation, so I bought one of each! Laughing

Still not fitted a cage yet, but the RAI is on the shelf ready for when I do.
Post #970103 6th Nov 2022 10:45am
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bodstruck



Member Since: 09 May 2020
Location: Wiltshire
Posts: 774

United Kingdom 
LandRoverAnorak wrote:
I ran mine in the same way although I shortened the pipe slightly, which seemed to give a bit more clearance. It's been fine for two and a half years


That is encouraging, thanks.

Blackwolf, that must be quite an expensive shelf you have with spares like that hanging around Smile

Stereo install pics, although not much that has not been seen many times before with double-din installs.

Before:


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And after:


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The Atoto unit seems to work well and is a good fit in the facia. Has all the functions I need and as it is an android unit itself I can install the apps I usually use my phone for on the stereo.
I didn't fit the external wifi antenna or the USB (for wired Android Auto) cable. I did buy an extra, a wireless steering wheel controller which is simple but effective, and plug and play.


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I deliberated over the type and position of the reverse camera. This one is a £12 eBay job but works well. As for position, ideally I would have it in the middle but the rear washer would have obscured some of the view so I decided to offset it. I couldn't quite deal with just a bit of offset so I popped halfway along the door. It does make the image also offset but still gives all the visibility I need. I wasn't really after a parking aid, more something to give some rear visibility when loaded up and the rear window is blocked.


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Post #970196 6th Nov 2022 11:42pm
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blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 16857

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
bodstruck wrote:
...Blackwolf, that must be quite an expensive shelf you have with spares like that hanging around...


I try not to think about that!

Although it's a well-used sentiment, I really hope when I'm gone that my family doesn't sell my stuff for what I said it cost.
Post #970197 7th Nov 2022 12:15am
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bodstruck



Member Since: 09 May 2020
Location: Wiltshire
Posts: 774

United Kingdom 
Fitted rock sliders over the last few days. Not a long job but I only had a few mins at a time grabbed between work stuff.


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These are Dixon Fabrication ones. Galvanised and powdercoated with fatty (60mm) tree bars. Probably a wider bar than I would normally choose but they were a facebook purchase so they will do the job nicely. Straightforward to fit and I would recommend these to anyone thinking about some sliders. I added the grip tape.

Current job is the internal B-pillar for the cage. Yet more things to do along the way Smile
The floor screws were rusty so I bought some SS ones to replace them with but the old ones had to be cut off. While these were off it seemed a great opportunity to take the panel out and inspect/clean the top of the chassis.


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Overall it was pretty good. Some surface rust, particularly on the rail that carries the fuel and brake lines. This is now cleaned up, rust treatment applied and will have a good coat of Dinitrol before the floor panel goes back on. Then on to the Krypton factor puzzle of getting the internal hoop in. I have a feeling the rear seats may need to come out.
Post #970745 11th Nov 2022 12:38pm
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