BigMike wrote:

Glyn does the FR one sit beneath the floor? ie you have to remove the panel and the floor of the box sits in space above the transmission tunnel?

Yes it does.

You have to take out the blanking plate that is there and turn the clamps that hold hoses across the transfer box upside down.

TBH the space created by going down is only enough to hold the defenders service portfolio.... the most space is created by it extending up.

Glyn

BigMike wrote:

Nakatenenga safe
Does anyone have one of these? If so would you mind sticking up a pic of how it sits in the vehicle with cubby on top? I ask because there are no shims on the base to lift it to the horizontal. Quite like to know if you had to drill any further holes in it or put in more riv nuts in the vehicle floor. Also interested in where the top right hand corner (for rt hnd drive vehicles) of the cubby sits and if you find it a problem for your left elbow

I have emailed Peter to ask some other questions about it but if anyone has one I'd appreciate the above.

Lorryman100 wrote:

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Here is how I fixed it in place:
1. Took out original cubby boxes 4x machine screws and removed cubby box.
2. There are two timber angled lengths affixed to the bottom of the cubby box held on with 3x staples and glue. I carefully removed them just in case and tapped the staples legs flat.
3. Took the safe out to car and test fitted it. First problem is that only two of the fixing points on the car are available, the rear two as the front two fixing points are under the power sockets which is fresh air.
4. Placed cubby box on top of safe and found the holes were close enough. Used M4 machine screws and washers and lined the two up. I then tightened the front two bolts tight enough as not to distort the metal top plate on the safe to let the key lock mark the bottom of the cuddy.
5. After undoing the bolts and lifting of cubby saw that the bottom was marked for drilling the access hole for the lock. Used a forstner bit and drileed the hole. matched up the safe and cubby box and found everything lined up...TF.
6. Took the now complete assembly out to car and sat it between the seats. Found the top of the cubby box was not level and when you use only the rear fixing points the front lifts up and vibrates.
7. Took the complete cubby box out and placed the original timber angled lengths( see note 2..... TF) back onto the floor and used the front two fixing bolts to fix them in place. Tightened them right up so the head was buried into the timber.
8. Placed the completed cubby box back into place and fixed the rear bolts. Then used two self tappers into the timber rails at the front fixing point. Whole unit now solid and level.

Once the weather clears up and I can get into the garage I will make a couple lengths of steel with the angle set and weld on a nut to allow me to use the 4 fixing points on the safe with bolts.

Quote:

You have to take out the blanking plate that is there and turn the clamps that hold hoses across the transfer box upside down.

TBH the space created by going down is only enough to hold the defenders service portfolio.... the most space is created by it extending up.

Prompted by Gly's comment above and partly out of curiosity as to whether a Webasto would fit under, I removed the cubby box and blanking plate. There's not much room above the transfer box but if you could move the fuel lines and fabricate a box for the heater/safe there's quite a bit of room behind the transfer box.


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Admin note: this post has had its images recovered from a money grabbing photo hosting site and reinstated

BigRuss wrote:

Well after you started talking about cutting the cubby box down you got me thinking. Now the cubby box is clad in leather which is only stapled in place as you can see underneath, no I would think that if you remove the inner lining you would find that the inside would also be stapled.

So if you were to remove the inner lining (and the lid) and then remove the staples from the leather and pull it back to give you enough room to make the cut required. Then just simply replace the leather and then with it attached at the bottom just pull it inside nice and tightly. You may have to make some small snips in the corners inside the box so it fits better.

So tools requires are; a screw drivers, a staple gun, staple remover and a saw. Oh don't forget a tap measure and remember measure twice and cut once.

Russell

Needs a new lid, since the cut would lengthen the aperture on the top. Not difficult though

I have a free weekend this weekend, so will make some shims and take a more detailed look at the stock cubby box

CR wrote:

can anyone tell me the total height from the base of the safe to the top of the cubby box ?

thanks

CR

safe dimensions are on the naka website and I guess you can measure your own cubby box