 | Home > Maintenance & Modifications > Rear Half Shaft Replacement |
 
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| PCM Member Since: 25 Jan 2019 Location: North East Posts: 862  
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Phew. Thanks again gents.
I'm even impressed with boltworld. Never knew such a world existed, but now I know they do them in black I'm definitely doing the job. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/M10-10mm-HIGH-T...PSu1hev7Mw But should probably go for zink plated then paint the caps, just to be sure. |
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12th Apr 2020 8:48pm |
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| keith Member Since: 15 Aug 2012 Location: Edinburgh Posts: 2164 
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Landroveranorack
Bolts delivery today. They come from a company called..... ‘ Balls grindings ‘ 
Awesome Keith  Click image to enlarge |
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14th Apr 2020 4:17pm |
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| Grenadier Member Since: 23 Jul 2014 Location: The foot of Mont Blanc... Posts: 5765  
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^^^ I bet a couple of my gay mates would find a wholly different set of ‘nuts’ if they googled ‘Balls Grindings’ on their various apps....
  Monsieur Le Grenadier
I've not been everywhere, but it's on my list..... 2011 Puma 110DC - Corris Grey |
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15th Apr 2020 8:07am |
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| LandRoverAnorak Member Since: 17 Jul 2011 Location: Surrey Posts: 11240 
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Excellent 
I can't help noticing your tube of threadlocker. Personally, I'd favour spring washers for this application. Darren 110 USW BUILD THREAD - EXPEDITION TRAILER - 200tdi 90 BUILD THREAD - SANKEY TRAILER - IG@landroveranorak "You came in that thing? You're braver than I thought!" - Princess Leia |
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15th Apr 2020 8:19am |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 16901 
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^^ Second that, avoid thread locker like the plague in this application. Use spring washers instead. Additionally, should you choose to use a gasket compound such as Hylomar instead of a drive flange gasket, be very careful not to let any get in the flange bolt holes.
Most bolt breakages are the result of gunge in the holes. |
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15th Apr 2020 10:07am |
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| PCM Member Since: 25 Jan 2019 Location: North East Posts: 862
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Going to tackle the half shaft replacement this weekend due to the vehicle becoming more clunky. Have all the bits from above and have use of a lift for a few hours to make it easier to whip off the wheels.
Just wondered if there is a specific grease recommended to 'lube up' the ends before insertion as I don't like the idea of inserting them dry. PCM |
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18th Jul 2020 3:24am |
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| Co1 Member Since: 19 Aug 2018 Location: North Yorkshire Posts: 3618 
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I don’t think there is a great need For anything specific, the dry ends don’t move so you don’t need anything high temp etc, you are just looking to create a barrier between surfaces. Something high viscosity and PTFE based would be ideal if you have it.
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18th Jul 2020 7:45am |
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| LandRoverAnorak Member Since: 17 Jul 2011 Location: Surrey Posts: 11240
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If you're talking about the end of the shaft that goes into the diff then I wouldn't worry about it. The bits it'll come into contact with will already be coated and the whole lot will be soaked within 50 yards. Darren
110 USW BUILD THREAD - EXPEDITION TRAILER - 200tdi 90 BUILD THREAD - SANKEY TRAILER - IG@landroveranorak "You came in that thing? You're braver than I thought!" - Princess Leia |
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18th Jul 2020 10:08am |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 19620
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I just used lithium grease on the splines on mine. Purely to help prevent ‘fretting’. This is of course on the drive wheel side, in the diff side as mentioned it is coated in diff oil, but when I did mine I did coat the end in diff oil anyway before fitting..
You may have one piece shafts, if so then no grease needed. Diesel$ Live$ Matter. ⛽️🛢️👨🔧🧰⚙️ RED, WHITE & BOOST! 🇬🇧 |
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18th Jul 2020 1:24pm |
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| PCM Member Since: 25 Jan 2019 Location: North East Posts: 862
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Perfect. Just a smear of Diff oil works for me.
Going to change it to Motul Gear 300 anyway. |
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18th Jul 2020 10:31pm |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 19620
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Fuchs in my diffs. Motul as my screenwash though, good stuff. 👍🏻 Diesel$ Live$ Matter. ⛽️🛢️👨🔧🧰⚙️ RED, WHITE & BOOST! 🇬🇧
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18th Jul 2020 11:01pm |
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| sako243 Member Since: 08 Jul 2014 Location: Wales Posts: 1190  
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If you're commonly getting breakages due to thread-locker that is screaming to me that they've either had way too much applied or the wrong strength. For example - I can't think of any application on a Land Rover that should be using red thread-lock, I think the strongest I've ever seen specified has been blue and then it's only been in a few situations. https://www.henkel-adhesives.com/ar/en/ins...ckers.html Separately on the point of not using impacts I can say that I've snapped far fewer bolts with my impact than I have with a breaker bar (obviously undoing not doing up). Mind you I only have the one size - big. The huge benefit it provides is delivering a large shock which aids in breaking any seal, but it is to be used with respect. The same impact has snapped M24 bolts when I might have been tightening them instead of undoing them  . Served the same purpose in the end.
Click image to enlarge Ed 82 Hotspur Sandringham 6x6 95 Defender 110 300Tdi |
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18th Jul 2020 11:10pm |
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| PCM Member Since: 25 Jan 2019 Location: North East Posts: 862
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One of the best and clearest videos I've seen. I love the diff on the bench
Part 1 Part 2 |
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19th Jul 2020 1:44am |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 19620
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When I did mine I used a breaker bar all by hand so you can feel the tension.
I did exactly what Blackwolf mentioned regarding spring washers and no thread lock or any of that. I’m no expert and would never use thread lock in this application but when I do have to use it I tend to put a drip or two on one side of the fixing and call it a day at that. I certainly don’t go and cost all the threads on it or the whole but or bolt threads. If I can I prefer Nylocs or spring washers but isn’t always possible in all applications. Diesel$ Live$ Matter. ⛽️🛢️👨🔧🧰⚙️ RED, WHITE & BOOST! 🇬🇧 |
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19th Jul 2020 1:53pm |
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