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| jbcollier Member Since: 29 Apr 2024 Location: Edmonton AB Posts: 229   
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It's the wrong valve for this kind of heater. This type of valve has three settings: on, off and something in the middle. It is not actually gradually increasing or decreasing the flow of hot coolant. Hot coolant is flowing all the time. You are only regulating whether it flows through the core or not. The problem is that it gets all mixed up in the middle with no fine graduation. This type of valve is meant to be either full on or full off with the heat regulation done by mixing outside and heated air within the heater box itself.
It gets worse, the available cable travel is not enough to both turn it full on or full off. You have to adjust the cable to bias it one way or the other. This is what comes from mixing and matching available components rather than designing components to suit. If you look at a Ford Transit heater valve, it is a vacuum controlled valve with no intermediate setting. It just bypasses the flow of coolant when AC is selected. Otherwise the heater core gets full coolant flow and heat regulation is done by air blending as per 99% of modern vehicles. Still, all annoyances aside, it puts out more heat than any previous Defender ever did, and the AC is pretty good as well. A win-whine situation if you ask me! |
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14th Mar 2025 7:57pm |
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| jbcollier Member Since: 29 Apr 2024 Location: Edmonton AB Posts: 229
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Dr Black Wolf is correct UNLESS you live in an area of extremes. We get -40C in the winter and darn near +40 C in the summer. This means you want the valve to be FULLY open with no bypass when it is cold and fully closed with no bypassing in the heat. Even a little bit of bypassing when it is cold really affects the heater output. The reverse is true when it is hot.
I have had two factory valves, two aftermarket valves and 2 valves from other OEMs (Fiat in my case though it was also used in Peugeot and Citroens). None of them both seal fully closed and fully open; some wouldn't do either and were always bypassing at least a bit. YMMV |
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14th Mar 2025 8:04pm |
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| andy63 Member Since: 30 Jun 2023 Location: north east Posts: 743 
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I have an spare heater valve that I decided to get as a spare for a trip away after reading they can be prone to leak..
The only position of the control that is a positive control is in the cold position where the inlet to the heater matrix and return into the valve body are definitely shut off.. The coolant still flows through the body of the valve and back to the pump inlet in this shut position.. From there operating the valve to the hot position is not as predictable..ie the inlet to the heater matrix opens and the return pipe flow back into the valve body also offers less resistance to flow but it's as indicated not a precise control.. all the while the recirculating circut through the valve body still allows some flow potential.. I think I've mentioned this before.. On my 2.2 I found the heating to be uncomfortable at times.. much better now mind and I can live with it as it is now.. Way to hot in the drivers footwell when it was regenerating the dpf..and nothing you could do about that.. The hot air vent blows air out in the wrong direction , sorted by an aftermarket plastic fitting that is easily fitted.... and after I fitted a Cowell over the wing air intake you had to use the fan to get air flowing into the cab.. On a long journey I have been able to find a sweet spot for a comfortable heat level, but as said the fan has to be running.. Point noted about most heating systems regulating temp by mixing air these days , but if I remember correctly all my early cars regulated the flow of water through the heater matrix, and worked well enough for me.. |
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15th Mar 2025 11:45am |
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