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excossack



Member Since: 22 Feb 2012
Location: North West
Posts: 5738

United Kingdom 1999 Defender 110 Td5 SW Caledonian Blue
Cheers. I have a leak (more than one I think)
One at the rear - half moon.
One towards the front. Oil on the steering column/engine mount/chassis/PAS pipes and around the alternator....
Certainly one to check but not sure if I fancy taking the car apart in the rain on the drive..... 1999 Defender TD5 110

Regards
John M0VAZ
Econet Station 48 no clock
Post #926389 19th Oct 2021 3:09pm
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geobloke



Member Since: 06 Nov 2012
Location: Nottinghamshire
Posts: 4395

United Kingdom 
Quote:
Cheers. I have a leak (more than one I think)
One at the rear - half moon.
One towards the front. Oil on the steering column/engine mount/chassis/PAS pipes and around the alternator....
Certainly one to check but not sure if I fancy taking the car apart in the rain on the drive.....


The half moon is a classic. I always add a little extra gasket sealer just there. I have also found that Land Rover rocker cover gaskets do not leak as much as other brands. Plus do not over tighten.

And I completely sympathise about DIY maintenance in the rain. I have our Phoebe in bits at the moment doing a timing belt, coolant flush, oil change, hoses, Haldex oil change, etc... Rained off, parts en-route and damn I hate gravel drives... Rolling with laughter


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Post #926391 19th Oct 2021 3:20pm
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excossack



Member Since: 22 Feb 2012
Location: North West
Posts: 5738

United Kingdom 1999 Defender 110 Td5 SW Caledonian Blue
I have tried genuine LR gaskets with and with out sealant and the same. Sad

But the small pipe might be a good thing to check.
My drive is not gravel but still outdoors Sad 1999 Defender TD5 110

Regards
John M0VAZ
Econet Station 48 no clock
Post #926392 19th Oct 2021 3:23pm
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blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 16870

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
The vacuum part of the pump cannot be connected to the oil feed or drain since since if it was the brake servo would not only be completely inoperative but would also fill with oil - bear in mind that the oil pressure entering the pump should presumably be considerable (engine oil pressure probably up to 60 psi with cold oil) which would utterly overwhelm the vac side, plus oil would be squirting out of the pump's exhaust. Even if the oil feed is via a restrictor and is in effect at 0 psi returning to the sump under gravity, if the vacuum chamber in the pump was connected to the oil drain the pump would simply be scavenging the sump and would not produce any vacuum for the brakes (although perhaps this is why your brakes were u/s).

It is possible that the oil pressure somehow improves the performance of the pump seals, but I suspect that it is more likely that during the act of removing and refitting the alternator and pump assembly to replace the pipe you have unwittingly repaired a vacuum leak.

It is certainly a fascinating observation, and I am tempted to try it on my Disco2 which from new has had the legendary Disco2 pre-facelift brake performance, requiring the infamous double-tap on the pedal to achieve any meaningful retardation. Very Happy
Post #926395 19th Oct 2021 3:52pm
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geobloke



Member Since: 06 Nov 2012
Location: Nottinghamshire
Posts: 4395

United Kingdom 
excossack wrote:
I have tried genuine LR gaskets with and with out sealant and the same. Sad

But the small pipe might be a good thing to check.
My drive is not gravel but still outdoors Sad


Interesting. Do you think that the rocker cover is pressurising slightly and pushing oil out? I thought this and fitted a provent in between the rocker cover and standard one-way valve. Problem solved...

I put it down to the standard valve not doing a great job and the addition of a catch can has reduced the pressure build up in the rocker cover. Makes sense to me anyway and I have no leaks anymore... or oil in the intake system Thumbs Up
Post #926396 19th Oct 2021 3:54pm
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geobloke



Member Since: 06 Nov 2012
Location: Nottinghamshire
Posts: 4395

United Kingdom 
blackwolf wrote:
The vacuum part of the pump cannot be connected to the oil feed or drain since since if it was the brake servo would not only be completely inoperative but would also fill with oil - bear in mind that the oil pressure entering the pump should presumably be considerable (engine oil pressure probably up to 60 psi with cold oil) which would utterly overwhelm the vac side, plus oil would be squirting out of the pump's exhaust. Even if the oil feed is via a restrictor and is in effect at 0 psi returning to the sump under gravity, if the vacuum chamber in the pump was connected to the oil drain the pump would simply be scavenging the sump and would not produce any vacuum for the brakes (although perhaps this is why your brakes were u/s).

It is possible that the oil pressure somehow improves the performance of the pump seals, but I suspect that it is more likely that during the act of removing and refitting the alternator and pump assembly to replace the pipe you have unwittingly repaired a vacuum leak.

It is certainly a fascinating observation, and I am tempted to try it on my Disco2 which from new has had the legendary Disco2 pre-facelift brake performance, requiring the infamous double-tap on the pedal to achieve any meaningful retardation. Very Happy


Makes sense to me. I do not know why it has improved, but it has. What is odd is that in replacing the pipe I didn't undo any of the other pipe connections, just moved the alternator outwards, cut the old pump off, slid the new pipe in to place. It is a little fiddly but easy enough for a DIYer.

It is easy to check if the pipe is hard with the bonnet up. Remember the pipe should be soft and pliable. Not hard.

I have also upgraded to DOT 5.1 brake fluid which gives a slightly harder pedal feel and doesn't boil quite as quickly. Still think it is a worthwhile upgrade. Thumbs Up
Post #926398 19th Oct 2021 4:02pm
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excossack



Member Since: 22 Feb 2012
Location: North West
Posts: 5738

United Kingdom 1999 Defender 110 Td5 SW Caledonian Blue
geobloke wrote:
excossack wrote:
I have tried genuine LR gaskets with and with out sealant and the same. Sad

But the small pipe might be a good thing to check.
My drive is not gravel but still outdoors Sad


Interesting. Do you think that the rocker cover is pressurising slightly and pushing oil out? I thought this and fitted a provent in between the rocker cover and standard one-way valve. Problem solved...

I put it down to the standard valve not doing a great job and the addition of a catch can has reduced the pressure build up in the rocker cover. Makes sense to me anyway and I have no leaks anymore... or oil in the intake system Thumbs Up


I do think there is some pressure pushing oil out. No leaks. That's luxury ! 1999 Defender TD5 110

Regards
John M0VAZ
Econet Station 48 no clock
Post #926402 19th Oct 2021 4:13pm
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geobloke



Member Since: 06 Nov 2012
Location: Nottinghamshire
Posts: 4395

United Kingdom 
Lanoguard
Ok I have bought in to the new anti corrosion boy on the block, Lanoguard. I have seen a lot of reviews from Oz and NZ and I am willing to take the punt on the natural alternative to waxoyl. I have been a waxoyl fan for many years but always hated how chemically it is. Needs must at the time though.

Now that I live on someone else's farm and an organic one at that this naturally produced product that is biodegradable makes a lot of sense. How good it is we will see in the year or so to come Smile


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I am intrigued by the grease and look forward to using it to protect the bolts nuts and exposed electrical contacts on the vehicle. That and not having to heat the stuff up in order to use it...

But first it is out with the wire brush Smile Well actually the first thing is to finish the timing and servicing on Phoebe the Freebie Smile
Post #926659 21st Oct 2021 12:10pm
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markb110



Member Since: 22 May 2010
Location: Guildford
Posts: 2520

England 2002 Defender 90 Td5 HT Epsom Green
You won’t regret it.

Super easy to use and satisfying that it is a job you can do yourself

If fact, I did mine this morning as the sun is out and quite warm.

Apart from a pair of safety glasses and gloves I was wearing shorts and a tee shirt ( only to stop the neighbours complaining…. Whistle )

It was fairly clean to start with as I cleaned the underside within an inch of its life last year during the heatwave before Fluid Filming it.

So two days ago I was under it with degreaser first and Muc Off via the jet wash, then another blast with water.

Went round it with the airline before putting it in the garage as the weather was rubbish yesterday. It also gave me time to use the grease. Pop it into a bucket of hot water so it becomes runny then ‘paint’ away. Also use in on seams and spring hangers that hold onto dirt.

This morning I put the 90 up on blocks under the tyres as axle stands just get in the way and then blasted away before turning to the cavity extension.

It’s surprisingly quick to use and even though I was not being conservative with it I still have about two and a half inches of fluid left in the container.

Enjoy……and embrace the sheep smell.. Sheep

Forgot to mention. Hardly any dripped onto the driveway.

If anyone is interested check the lastest JK Overland video on YouTube. In the description is an offer to get the professional spray bottle for free at the moment.



Goodluck
Post #926667 21st Oct 2021 2:01pm
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kenzle8a



Member Since: 12 Feb 2020
Location: None
Posts: 1074

 
I'm a big fan, I haven't noticed the smell as the smell of horse tends to overpower the interior anyway...
Post #926668 21st Oct 2021 2:04pm
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geobloke



Member Since: 06 Nov 2012
Location: Nottinghamshire
Posts: 4395

United Kingdom 
Amazing thanks for the replies, this is why I have taken the plunge Thumbs Up Although perhaps the wrong time of year to do this job hey-ho...

Never used fluid film, what does it do?

I saw the JK Overlanding vid the other day Thumbs Up Love their old Pajero, reminds me of living out in Asia as a youth where it was the vehicle of choice along with the hilux.
Post #926670 21st Oct 2021 2:21pm
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markb110



Member Since: 22 May 2010
Location: Guildford
Posts: 2520

England 2002 Defender 90 Td5 HT Epsom Green
Hi

Fluid film is another version of Lanolin but I was getting it in aerosol cans and a cavity hose from Amazon Germany…….before Brexit, now they won’t send it over.

There is a UK supplier now but at £15 a can it’s expensive.

Fluid Film and Wool Wax are two American brands and both get good praises on US YouTube channels. The latter is coloured black which is a good idea.

Interestingly when I was researching Lanolin products a few years back when watching a US vid the advice back in the day was to spray the underside then take it for a drive up a dusty track so the dust sticks to it to make an extra protective layer. Lanoguard advice is to not to drive the vehicle for 24 to 48hrs later.

There is a Lanoguard vid showing it being applied in cold weather, just keep a bucket of hot water to hand to put the container and grease in to keep it runny. As it is so quick to apply you won’t have time to get cold….. Laughing
Post #926686 21st Oct 2021 4:23pm
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8619simon



Member Since: 05 Nov 2016
Location: North Wales
Posts: 227

Wales 1995 Defender 110 300 Tdi CSW Epsom Green
Did mine last year with Lanoguard and have to say I am converted. It’s stood up to a whole year of abuse and North Wales crud really well. Just about to top up for another year Thumbs Up
Post #926705 21st Oct 2021 6:04pm
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geobloke



Member Since: 06 Nov 2012
Location: Nottinghamshire
Posts: 4395

United Kingdom 
Excellent Thumbs Up If there was ever a better recommendation than one from a fellow North Wales Defender owner Thumbs Up
Post #926758 22nd Oct 2021 10:39am
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geobloke



Member Since: 06 Nov 2012
Location: Nottinghamshire
Posts: 4395

United Kingdom 
markb110 wrote:
Hi

Fluid film is another version of Lanolin but I was getting it in aerosol cans and a cavity hose from Amazon Germany…….before Brexit, now they won’t send it over.

There is a UK supplier now but at £15 a can it’s expensive.

Fluid Film and Wool Wax are two American brands and both get good praises on US YouTube channels. The latter is coloured black which is a good idea.

Interestingly when I was researching Lanolin products a few years back when watching a US vid the advice back in the day was to spray the underside then take it for a drive up a dusty track so the dust sticks to it to make an extra protective layer. Lanoguard advice is to not to drive the vehicle for 24 to 48hrs later.

There is a Lanoguard vid showing it being applied in cold weather, just keep a bucket of hot water to hand to put the container and grease in to keep it runny. As it is so quick to apply you won’t have time to get cold….. Laughing


I came across the dusty track advice too, fat chance of that around these Welsh country lanes at this time of year Rolling with laughter
Post #926759 22nd Oct 2021 10:40am
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