 | Home > Maintenance & Modifications > A day in the life of Miffy the 110... |
 
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| geobloke Member Since: 06 Nov 2012 Location: Nottinghamshire Posts: 4405  
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...Is the Corwen Carwash
Or Miffy... 
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28th Sep 2021 10:18am |
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| L110CDL Member Since: 31 Oct 2015 Location: Devon Posts: 10513 
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Nice pic there, good timing
 1996 Golf Blue 300Tdi 110 Pick up. Keeper.
Clayton. |
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28th Sep 2021 10:14pm |
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| geobloke Member Since: 06 Nov 2012 Location: Nottinghamshire Posts: 4405
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So, this was just a quick test, nothing scientific whatsoever. Consisted of a relatively straight and flat dark country road, a Defender 110, pair of JW Speaker Evo 2 headlights in chrome (it matters to light output, honest) and a generic light bar hung under a bumper mounted A-bar.
Click image to enlarge In order: Low Beam, High Beam and High Beam + Light Bar. Then just for completeness sake Low Beam dipped to position 3 on the headlight levellers. The reason for the last one is I have found it incredibly useful when driving in fog and for not dazzling on-coming drivers when in built-up areas or a twilight when headlights are useful but range is not necessary. These are very bright lights, it is good to be considerate. Click image to enlarge NB: The iPhone 8s is not a great device for doing this sort of test, but you get the idea I hope.
Also the light bar I have is great at producing light, but it just pours light out in all directions. Awful focusing. Then again it was a very cheap light bar... |
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29th Sep 2021 11:21am |
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| geobloke Member Since: 06 Nov 2012 Location: Nottinghamshire Posts: 4405
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Yeah it was, just wish I had my proper camera with me, could have made a much better job of it |
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29th Sep 2021 11:21am |
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| geobloke Member Since: 06 Nov 2012 Location: Nottinghamshire Posts: 4405
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As mentioned previously I have recently flushed and refilled Miffys coolant system and unlike times past I pre-mixed the coolant this time around. Well what a ball ache getting the entire system up to the 50:50 recommended ratio...
I will revert back to my tried and tested method the next time around: Flush until just water flows. Plug the drain hole. Refill with required quantity of 100% antifreeze. fill up the system with water. Run. Test. Done. Lesson learnt. Anyway, after a week of testing, emptying and adding antifreeze the system is now running at 50:50 ratio.
Finally... |
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2nd Oct 2021 12:28pm |
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| geobloke Member Since: 06 Nov 2012 Location: Nottinghamshire Posts: 4405
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Is there a need for it?
Heck yes...!
Without the seal it is amazing how much exhaust gets sucked in to the cabin  Cannot fathom why I feel so sleepy whilst driving Miffy recently
When I replaced the fuel pump I thought I had to lift the rear floor mat to get to the access hatch I put in the floor a few years back. In doing so all but one of the self tapping screws I used to fit the threshold sheared their heads off.  A  of a job to get those nub-ends of screw out...
Anyone doing this job do not use cheap screws you will regret it. Plus slather those threads in anti-seize grease too on assembly
Anyway, job done in the rain (it is Wales in Autumn after all) and hopefully the dogs and humans won't come all over dozy on our next drive out to the woodlands or shops
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4th Oct 2021 1:43pm |
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| geobloke Member Since: 06 Nov 2012 Location: Nottinghamshire Posts: 4405
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One more little job for today, still dodging the showers. I lost a wheel weight at some point in the last few weeks, it created a lovely speed wobble around 60mph. Handy speed
Anyway, as I have a small quantity of dynabeads in my tyres I have just topped them up to the required amount for 285/75/16 tyres (8oz) and now we have smooth driving once more. Love Dynabeads, absolutely superb method of balancing when you do not have a rim capable of attaching weights too, hate the look of weights or just wish to fine tune the balance when the tyres are big and standard weights couldn't go the whole way. For those that are interested the best way I have found to get the beads inside the tyres is by using the applicator bottle Dynabeads supply, but to encourage the flow through the small diameter valve use a drill with a Torx bit on the end. I use a small rattle gun and it speeds up the transfer to a few minutes, five at most. Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge On a related note, the upgraded Anderson Powerpole connectors I replaced a month or so ago worked perfectly with the T-Max pump. Two tyres from flat and barely got warm. This is a marked improvement from before servicing the pump and fitting the lower amperage connectors (right plonker for doing that). Just in time for a road trip tomorrow morning... |
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4th Oct 2021 4:03pm |
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| Pacha Member Since: 23 Feb 2020 Location: North Yorkshire Posts: 772 
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Well every day is a school day!!
Never heard of Dynabeads - looks a neat solution. Rgds. Chris |
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4th Oct 2021 4:27pm |
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| geobloke Member Since: 06 Nov 2012 Location: Nottinghamshire Posts: 4405
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Hi Chris. Always glad to educate
I absolutely love Dynabeads, have been using them for years. I used to re-balance my wheels five or six times a year, Ker-ching, cannot stand unbalanced wheels Anyway, took a punt on the beads. Spoke with Colin the distributor in the UK and he advised a small weight worth of beads initially to fine tune the weights already on the rim. Brilliant, love a product that actually works and keeps on working.
And just so you know, no you cannot hear them swirling around in the tyres
There are some scaremongers out there that say the beads will mask bearing failures etc. and possibly they might do. But, if you regularly check your vehicle over for wear etc then a sloppy bearing will be obvious. Incidentally, Miffy's bearings are 6-7 years old, 3 or which have had Dynabeads in the wheels and not a bit of bearing slop or grinding. Scaremongering... This is the website https://www.dynabeads.co.uk if anyone is interested. I wouldn't be surprised if he'd do a forum discount |
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4th Oct 2021 8:35pm |
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| geobloke Member Since: 06 Nov 2012 Location: Nottinghamshire Posts: 4405
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TD5 vacuum pump oil drain pipe
Fixed... Had to do an oil change today so it was the perfect time to replace the above rubber oil drain pipe from the vacuum pump to the sump. The part number is SQC500010 (supersedes ERR6996) - Number 10 in the below image
It's no longer available anywhere... Anywhere...! To replace this you do not need to remove the whole alternator assembly but most of it. Drain the oil. Remove engine cover, fan shroud, fan, belt and belt tensioner. Undo the alternator top bolt (10m) and bottom bolt (torx 55). Remove the oil feed from the head (14mm spanner). Remove the clips from the oil drain hose (x2). The hose was rock solid and leaking like a sieve. It needed cutting off. Ease the alternator away from the engine to give a little space. The new hose must be 10mm ID, 17mm OD and 65mm long. I used two spring clips as they flex with the pipe as it warms and cools. The space is tight so a little silicone grease to ease the pipe in to position is needed. Spring clips in place. Refit everything back to where it should be. New filters, sump plug and refill with 5w30 oil. Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Jobs a goodun' 
All filters are not made the same Just as an aside two Genuine Land Rover oil filters and they are very different. The size of the holes in the top are very different, approx 50% bigger in the now fitted white oil filter. Weird... Not sure what the black versus the white means neither... Click image to enlarge A few weeks later: Really interesting development since replacing that small hard vacuum drain pipe... Miffy's brakes are 50% (at least) better than they were before the replacement pipe... Incredible difference. Anyone that owns a TD5 needs to check this pipe and replace it as I bet they are all hard and leaking oil by now. |
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19th Oct 2021 1:27pm |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 16879 
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That is very interesting, since it is hard to understand how a leak in an oil return pipe should affect the vacuum produced by the pump. Well worth remembering as a check point.
Another vote for Dynabeads, by the way, wonderful things. When I had the last set of tyres changed I was interested to see what the beads in the old tyres would look like after something like 80k miles, and was surprised to find that they had become a sort of gungy paste after mixing with the remains of the tyre bead lubricant used to fit the tyres originally. They still worked fine though. |
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19th Oct 2021 2:14pm |
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| geobloke Member Since: 06 Nov 2012 Location: Nottinghamshire Posts: 4405
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Yeah odd for sure... It makes me think that there might be a leak between the vacuum side of the pump and the lubrication side. It has done 222k miles and change.
Looking at this dead pump, it does look as if the oil feed and drain might enter and exit the vacuum chamber, but I cannot say for sure. Click image to enlarge Too difficult to say, however the thread that image came from did say that when the pump broke it spewed oil everywhere. All I know is that the brakes are much better, and the effort I put in is being multiplied to great effect. Funny thing is that I have been chasing dull feeling brakes for about 6 months. Checked all the usual suspects (servo, pipes, etc...) and nothing was wrong. Now I have inadvertently found it.
The first time I used the brakes in anger whilst driving the twisting A5 through Snowdonia it was a little like throwing an anchor out the back door. Whomever was filling me in that BMW... Sorry, I wasn't brake testing you... Honest... |
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19th Oct 2021 2:41pm |
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| excossack Member Since: 22 Feb 2012 Location: North West Posts: 5743 
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Was your pipe leaking? 1999 Defender TD5 110
Regards John M0VAZ Econet Station 48 no clock |
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19th Oct 2021 3:01pm |
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| geobloke Member Since: 06 Nov 2012 Location: Nottinghamshire Posts: 4405
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Oh yes, on the Land Rover scale of oil leaks I would class it as a decent weep
From the pipe, down on to the lip of the sump, along to the bell housing and drip drip on to the floor... The pipe was absolutely ROCK solid and braking at the ends. |
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19th Oct 2021 3:04pm |
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