 | Home > Maintenance & Modifications > A day in the life of Miffy the 110... |
 
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| geobloke Member Since: 06 Nov 2012 Location: Nottinghamshire Posts: 4395  
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I have recently started having a very irritating fault where the engine will turn over and fail to start, Sometimes it throws out the MIL lamp and fault codes for High Speed Crank and Noisy Crank Signal, sometimes it doesn't. I can start her first turn of the key in the morning, drive around, pull up turn off and then she fails to start throwing the faults... Irritating to say the least...
So fault diagnosis, this is where I am at Electrical system Relays - Under the drivers seat. Open the relay up and check the contacts, they corrode over time. Can stop fuel pump. Earth points - Chassis and ECU. Clean up, grease and replace. Sensor connector - Check for corrosion of the terminals Sensor wiring - Continuity check the sensor wiring. This is known to get brittle and fracture. There are by-pass looms to replace this. Or you can make one yourself with twin core shielded wire, connector and shouldered in to the red ECU plug. Sensor - Fairly robust units. Replace if unsure, but it is more likely the wiring. Starter motor - This is known to "interfere" with the signal from the crank sensor at start-up, especially budget motors. Shielding the wiring may help. Wrap sensor wiring with tinfoil to test?! Fuel system Injector seals - Check for diesel smell in oil. Maintenance item. Replace. Fuel regulator - Check for leaks Fuel filter one way valve and filter - Known to fail and allow fuel to empty from engine. Fuel filter housing - Known to corrode at the inlet/outlet connections and allow air in to the system. Fuel pump - Is it working? Is it pumping at the required pressure. Can make all the right noises and not be pumping correctly. It is completely intermittent. It doesn't happen after an overnight sit, so it is unlikely something to do with the injector seals, regulator or the fuel filter one way valves. If it were then the fault would be consistent with extended periods of dis-use. The exception is that it could be the pump not pumping quite enough... 
I have previous checked the relays and found that after 20 years the contacts had worn with evidence of arcing and smoke staining in the plastic housing. These have been replaced so are not the source of the problem. I have been through all the earthing points recently, cleaned them up and greased them. I have also added a direct earth from the ECU to the negative terminal of the battery. I have recently changed the starter motor, again after 20 years of use, for a Britpart item and there is a possibility that given its proximity to the crank sensor wiring it is interfering with the relatively weak signal of the crank sensor. I plan to shield the sensor wire with a homemade faraday cage as an experiment to see whether that helps. Could do...
The sensor itself is a OEM LR item that I have no reason to suspect is faulty. I have not found anywhere of a test for these. Anyone?! The sensor wiring itself is my next step. It is possible that after 20 years the thin wires have perished or even broken inside their sheaths. Sometimes working sometimes sort of working and throwing out the fault codes. It is possible to make a complete by-pass loom going from the sensor all the way back to the red ECU plug, so I have bought the components and I will make up the loom shortly. At the same time I will test the original loom for breaks etc. The bypass parallel loom consists of two core screened cable (approx. 1m), cable sheathing, heat shrink, Econoseal sensor connector and pins, plus pins for the red ECU plug. cost = £15 Should be a nice evening project...  |
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19th Aug 2021 10:26am |
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| geobloke Member Since: 06 Nov 2012 Location: Nottinghamshire Posts: 4395
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Re-bushing update...
It is funny but having just got back from a quick drive out to the woodlands for a dog walk and I realised that the marginally concerning clonk I had thought was a transmission clonk seems to have been in fact worn bushes. No clonks no rattles and Miffy feels like she's as light as a feather in the corners 
Now all that is irritating is the squeaky sometimes unoccupied passenger seat... 
I did find a little carpark ramp to test the bushes out and I am very happy with how they flex and take the punishment of pot holed forest tracks. Very impressed actually. Big difference... Some almost pointless Miffy flexing images... The 285/75/16 tyres only just fit in the standard Defender rear wheel arch, millimetres to spare. This is pretty much full articulation that the +2" Old man Emu shocks would allow. I really miss the Gwyn Lewis +5" suspension I used to have on her. Immense suspension that...
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19th Aug 2021 4:49pm |
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| geobloke Member Since: 06 Nov 2012 Location: Nottinghamshire Posts: 4395
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Here you go, 30 minutes of effort and the bypass loom is ready to be installed.
I wonder if it will cure the intermittent starting faults
We will know soon… Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge |
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19th Aug 2021 8:40pm |
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| geobloke Member Since: 06 Nov 2012 Location: Nottinghamshire Posts: 4395
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Ahh yes. You got me thinking I had missed out on MAJOR POOOOOWWWWEEEERRRRRr
Fingers crossed for the loom. |
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20th Aug 2021 9:18am |
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| geobloke Member Since: 06 Nov 2012 Location: Nottinghamshire Posts: 4395
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So this reared its ugly head again today. Miffy just would not fire up. Kept faulting with a 19,6 noisy crank signal. She'd turn over and over but just would not fire up We were getting some interesting looks from folks in Denbigh Morrisons I can tell you...
I guess today is the day to fit the crank sensor bypass loom and see if that helps. Failing that it mightt be interference from the newly replaced Britpart starter motor or possibly the noisy fuel pump... Keep ticking off the diagnosis check points. |
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24th Aug 2021 3:12pm |
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| excossack Member Since: 22 Feb 2012 Location: North West Posts: 5740 
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A few years back my 110 would not start if the starter was warm. Over night or end of the work day, it would start OK.
But would go with a bump/tow start. In the end, took the starter off and repaired it, OK for a bit but went again. Got the starter checked and there was some issue with the contacts and wasn't worth fixing. New started required and touch wood, so far so good. I didn't have a nanocom at the time and as such unable to check for errors. 1999 Defender TD5 110 Regards John M0VAZ Econet Station 48 no clock |
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24th Aug 2021 3:32pm |
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| geobloke Member Since: 06 Nov 2012 Location: Nottinghamshire Posts: 4395
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So I have thoroughly tested the standard loom from the ECU to the crank sensor and nothing, it is in perfect working order. I could not get it to break continuity and the resistance through each wire is good too. I also ran the bypass loom to double check and the ol girl is still failing to fire up. I am beginning to think that the Britpart starter motor may be so darned noisy (electrically speaking, actually it is a screecher too) as to be interfering with the weaker sensor signal. Possibly... I am not sure how to test for that though...
Anyone? The other thing that happened yesterday was that the Bearmach fuel pump became suspiciously quiet, having always been a noisy pump from the day I fitted it two years ago. From day one you could hear the pump over the noise of the engine and exhaust whilst inside with the doors close and windows up. Perhaps, this is also on the way out... Eeeshk... I just want it to be trustworthy once more, I think Miffy would appreciate that too being the stalwart gal that she is... I will sort this out one way or another...  |
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25th Aug 2021 1:45pm |
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| excossack Member Since: 22 Feb 2012 Location: North West Posts: 5740
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Worth removing the starter and checking for issues/corrosion etc. 1999 Defender TD5 110
Regards John M0VAZ Econet Station 48 no clock |
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25th Aug 2021 2:14pm |
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| geobloke Member Since: 06 Nov 2012 Location: Nottinghamshire Posts: 4395
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Absolutely John
Have to say I took the risk on the Britpart starter motor because how different could t be to the original... Quite it the answer to that. Outwardly it looked similar but as if you are looking at it through someone else's prescription glasses. Nearly, but not quite the same... |
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25th Aug 2021 2:45pm |
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| excossack Member Since: 22 Feb 2012 Location: North West Posts: 5740
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Time to fork out for a new one of non Britpart quality.
Is it less than 2 years old, warranty claim ? PS No bunting at the weekend, I looked both on the way into Bala and out from Bala…  1999 Defender TD5 110
Regards John M0VAZ Econet Station 48 no clock |
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25th Aug 2021 3:53pm |
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| geobloke Member Since: 06 Nov 2012 Location: Nottinghamshire Posts: 4395
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Ah you know what the council told us to pull it down and pack it all up, apparently the dancing girls lining the road were a bit of a distraction
There is only a 1 year warranty on Britpart items, so yes, guess what I just bought???? Denso this time, not going to faff about again. Once singed twice shy... Same goes for the fuel pump  |
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25th Aug 2021 4:00pm |
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| excossack Member Since: 22 Feb 2012 Location: North West Posts: 5740
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That's a shame...
24month on their website https://www.britpart.com/about-us/24-month-guarantee I went Denso for alternator, packed in after 18months, Used the 2 year warranty, got a refund and then bought another from another supplier for less than the other one and still 2 years 1999 Defender TD5 110
Regards John M0VAZ Econet Station 48 no clock |
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25th Aug 2021 4:08pm |
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| geobloke Member Since: 06 Nov 2012 Location: Nottinghamshire Posts: 4395
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It must be Christmas...
...or possibly a Thursday in the life of a Land Rover owner...!
So I have bitten the bullet and bought some parts to chase down this ridiculous non-firing issue I am having with Miffy. I believe more and more that it is down to the choice of buying budget parts. I guess I will find out whether that holds water or not this week
So to correct the starter motor interfering with the crank sensor signal I have purchased a Denso alternator, same as the LR original one, identical in fact. I will stick a comparison photo of the Britpart one later. The to correct the cheap as chips possible fuel pump issue there is a new VDO pump to replace it. Along with a new fuel filter that will hopefully accept the water sensor, the current one has a small thread at the bottom for some reason...!?!?! Plus a new set of one way and bleed valves for the filter housing. It's a bit belts and braces, but the ones in there are now very old. Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge |
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26th Aug 2021 3:16pm |
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| donmacn Member Since: 07 Nov 2017 Location: Nth Scotland Posts: 1829 |
Well.... something in there should do it!
Sometimes I'm quite glad I drive a simple old 300Tdi. 
I do sympathise though - tracking down things like this can be a pain, and as you've said above it can get to a point where you lose heart slightly. No doubt confidence in Miffy will be restored shortly. Donald
1994 Defender 300Tdi 110 SW - owned since 2002 - 230k miles and going strong (The 'rolling restoration' or tinkering thread: http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic58538.html ) 2000 Range Rover P38 4.0L V8 in the past.. RR classic - fitted with 200Tdi 1984 RR classic - V8 with ZF auto box 1993 Discovery 300Tdi not to mention the minis and the Type 2 VW camper... |
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26th Aug 2021 3:45pm |
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