kingofthesparks wrote:

thats why i want a traditional one, has anyone run cables above headlining and how easy was it

alantd wrote:

@leeds: got any good LED worklights you could recommend? I want to get one but I assume there are good 'uns and bad 'uns

Alan one of the biggest problems with the majority of lights on the market is the way they advertise/sell them. What the hell has the power consumed by the light (watts) have anything to do with the light output (lumens) or light intensity (lux)

Some of the few out of a myriad of lights that give the light output are Light Force and Vision X.

LED lights go from sub £50 to several thousand £. There are many lookalikes as well

The LED worklights on the back of our black 110


Click image to enlarge

Rated at 1 watt, don't ask me what light output is as I can not/do not know a figure. We have two on and they are great for camping/reversing by and have minimal current draw.

A friend of mine has one of these Vision X 10 watt light as a reverse light



This light has 900 lumen light output. More details HERE

The GENUINE Vision X light is about £85-90. There is a Chinese knock off which is about £75-80. Durite are doing an extremely similar one for about £99. Prices and quality on ebay go all over the place

ALan if you get to any of the shows you are welcome to have a good look at the lights on our trucks.


HTH


Brendan

Admin note: this post has had its images recovered from a money grabbing photo hosting site and reinstated

18stone wrote:

Anyone heard of this problem when wiring roof spots?

My auto sparks/LR inde has done thousands over the years (most on all LR models) but on my new Puma there's a dash light that comes on (a light bulb 'icon') when the lights are operated. They all work but there seems to be some feed back onto the dash through the new loom suggesting a problem. He's proposing to fit a diode in-line today to prevent the 'feedback'.

Any thoughts chaps?

Fitting a blocking diode is quite common

leeds wrote:

alantd wrote:

@leeds: got any good LED worklights you could recommend? I want to get one but I assume there are good 'uns and bad 'uns

Alan one of the biggest problems with the majority of lights on the market is the way they advertise/sell them. What the hell has the power consumed by the light (watts) have anything to do with the light output (lumens) or light intensity (lux)

Some of the few out of a myriad of lights that give the light output are Light Force and Vision X.

LED lights go from sub £50 to several thousand £. There are many lookalikes as well


Rated at 1 watt, don't ask me what light output is as I can not/do not know a figure. We have two on and they are great for camping/reversing by and have minimal current draw.

A friend of mine has one of these Vision X 10 watt light as a reverse light

This light has 900 lumen light output.

The GENUINE Vision X light is about £85-90. There is a Chinese knock off which is about £75-80. Durite are doing an extremely similar one for about £99. Prices and quality on ebay go all over the place

ALan if you get to any of the shows you are welcome to have a good look at the lights on our trucks.


HTH


Brendan

Hmm. There are problems in advertising any light in lumens. The issue is that the area to be lit can vary hugely. It's actually lux and flux which are the important measurements of a lights intensity as opposed to lumens. Watts or joules are a very useful measure since if you know the power output that can be a reasonable indication of what kind of lux you're going to get. The only reason that light power is now advertised in lumens is due to yet another stupid EU law which about emissions which tries to get away from wattage as a measurement.

The important figure is the radiant flux given by a light as opposed to the luminous flux from which is derived "lumens". Luminous flux is basically just how the eye sees light, it's not actually an accurate measure of the light fall itself. That's not to say that a 1 watt LED won't be bright, it may well be, but its the radiant flux which is important or how far that light falls and with what kind of intensity. eg a worklight on the back of a vehicle does not need a huge lumen output. what it needs is a decent radiant flux. However, I've found that putting the transfer box in neutral and the main gear in reverse gives a decent enough light to work with assuming the engine/ignition is on. If not then a worklight is obviously more appropriate but realistically there is little point in getting carried away with buying lights which throw out many lumens. Your mates 900 lumen light for example - a worklight can get away with being 20 lumens only and still be highly effective. A 60 lumen LED light (like those found on the better spec petzl headtorches) will give significant light and decent radiant flux. In fact my petzl will reach over 100 metres in total darkness with no problem at all, and it's radiant flux is significant.

A further issue is that the marketing people in various light manufacturers have really seized on the term "lumens" and in the same way as retail camera manufacturers promoting more megapixels = good, less megapixels = bad, the light firms are doing the same. It's highly misleading the consumer unfortunately.

confused?

BigMike wrote:

leeds wrote:

alantd wrote:

@leeds: got any good LED worklights you could recommend? I want to get one but I assume there are good 'uns and bad 'uns

Alan one of the biggest problems with the majority of lights on the market is the way they advertise/sell them. What the hell has the power consumed by the light (watts) have anything to do with the light output (lumens) or light intensity (lux)

Some of the few out of a myriad of lights that give the light output are Light Force and Vision X.

LED lights go from sub £50 to several thousand £. There are many lookalikes as well


Rated at 1 watt, don't ask me what light output is as I can not/do not know a figure. We have two on and they are great for camping/reversing by and have minimal current draw.

A friend of mine has one of these Vision X 10 watt light as a reverse light

This light has 900 lumen light output.

The GENUINE Vision X light is about £85-90. There is a Chinese knock off which is about £75-80. Durite are doing an extremely similar one for about £99. Prices and quality on ebay go all over the place

ALan if you get to any of the shows you are welcome to have a good look at the lights on our trucks.


HTH


Brendan

Hmm. There are problems in advertising any light in lumens. The issue is that the area to be lit can vary hugely. It's actually lux and flux which are the important measurements of a lights intensity as opposed to lumens. Watts or joules are a very useful measure since if you know the power output that can be a reasonable indication of what kind of lux you're going to get. The only reason that light power is now advertised in lumens is due to yet another stupid EU law which about emissions which tries to get away from wattage as a measurement.

The important figure is the radiant flux given by a light as opposed to the luminous flux from which is derived "lumens". Luminous flux is basically just how the eye sees light, it's not actually an accurate measure of the light fall itself. That's not to say that a 1 watt LED won't be bright, it may well be, but its the radiant flux which is important or how far that light falls and with what kind of intensity. eg a worklight on the back of a vehicle does not need a huge lumen output. what it needs is a decent radiant flux. However, I've found that putting the transfer box in neutral and the main gear in reverse gives a decent enough light to work with assuming the engine/ignition is on. If not then a worklight is obviously more appropriate but realistically there is little point in getting carried away with buying lights which throw out many lumens. Your mates 900 lumen light for example - a worklight can get away with being 20 lumens only and still be highly effective. A 60 lumen LED light (like those found on the better spec petzl headtorches) will give significant light and decent radiant flux. In fact my petzl will reach over 100 metres in total darkness with no problem at all, and it's radiant flux is significant.

A further issue is that the marketing people in various light manufacturers have really seized on the term "lumens" and in the same way as retail camera manufacturers promoting more megapixels = good, less megapixels = bad, the light firms are doing the same. It's highly misleading the consumer unfortunately.

confused?

fantastic  Mike