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fekete



Member Since: 24 Dec 2008
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United Kingdom 2007 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 HT Bonatti Grey
Paul your link don't work Thumbs Up NEVER TAKE LIFE SERIOUSLY. NOBODY GETS OUT ALIVE ANYWAY
Post #53974 19th Jan 2011 7:47pm
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Paul_1978



Member Since: 08 Nov 2009
Location: South Yorkshire
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England 2004 Defender 90 Td5 CSW Zermatt Silver
Check again, ive edited the post.
Post #53975 19th Jan 2011 7:48pm
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fekete



Member Since: 24 Dec 2008
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United Kingdom 2007 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 HT Bonatti Grey
Excellent Thanks Thumbs Up NEVER TAKE LIFE SERIOUSLY. NOBODY GETS OUT ALIVE ANYWAY
Post #53976 19th Jan 2011 7:49pm
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mse



Member Since: 06 Apr 2008
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United Kingdom 2016 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 XS CSW Scotia Grey
The difference between that diagram and mine is mine switches earth not +ve.

Most land rover stuff swtiches at earth (less cables to run Mike
Post #53978 19th Jan 2011 7:51pm
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leeds



Member Since: 28 Dec 2009
Location: West Yorkshire
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United Kingdom 
Fuse boxes?

Choices abound. Anything from an inline fuse to 4/6/8/12 fuse boxes.

Prices from a few £ to up to about £50

Which one to go for?

Well the ones we use in our vehicles are 12 fuse box with a common negative bus bar. We take negative cable from the equipment back to the fuse box and hence battery rather then using the chassis as earth return path. Hopefully helps avoid those potential earthing problems




If you have a twin battery set up don't put it in the main battery box (unlike Devon Rolling with laughter ) If you need to change fuses and have it in main battery box with twin batteries you may just have to take a battery out to replace a fuse! OK small hands, small batteries you might get away with it.

In black puma it is located in drivers box. In red overland vehicle it is in the battery box Banging Head Yes I need to sort out that battery box one day Whistle


HTH

Brendan

Brendan

Admin note: this post has had its images recovered from a money grabbing photo hosting site and reinstated Mr. Green
Post #53980 19th Jan 2011 7:54pm
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fekete



Member Since: 24 Dec 2008
Location: Here on the other end of the computer
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United Kingdom 2007 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 HT Bonatti Grey
Paul_1978 wrote:
fekete wrote:
Paul i have the LR Switchs and the plug that go's in the back Thumbs Up


Ive orded it now and paid, doh!
Thanks.

Ive been looking for the diagram, i had a print out, but a bit of searching and ive found it..


Click image to enlarge


Right guys what is the high beam warning lamp wire for 86 ?.........and do's the 12v dash illumination wire just connect to a live in the dash ?

Admin note: this post has had its images recovered from a money grabbing photo hosting site and reinstated Mr. Green  NEVER TAKE LIFE SERIOUSLY. NOBODY GETS OUT ALIVE ANYWAY
Post #53984 19th Jan 2011 7:57pm
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Paul_1978



Member Since: 08 Nov 2009
Location: South Yorkshire
Posts: 384

England 2004 Defender 90 Td5 CSW Zermatt Silver
Quote:
The difference between that diagram and mine is mine switches earth not +ve.

Most land rover stuff swtiches at earth



Looking at the wiring diagram for the TD5, windows, heated seats, fuel pump etc are all controled in the +ve circuit.

Land Rover use earth to switch relays, as like you say this cuts down on cable runs, but in most high current circuits +ve is allways switched and the device bonded locally to earth, again cutting down on cables run.

Best practice is to switch +ve load on relay applications.


Last edited by Paul_1978 on 19th Jan 2011 8:02pm. Edited 2 times in total
Post #53985 19th Jan 2011 7:58pm
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Paul_1978



Member Since: 08 Nov 2009
Location: South Yorkshire
Posts: 384

England 2004 Defender 90 Td5 CSW Zermatt Silver
Quote:
Right guys what is the high beam warning lamp wire for 86 ?.........and do's the 12v dash illumination wire just connect to a live in the dash ?


The high beam wire is to supply +12v to the relay, so spots can not come on without high beam being selected on the stalk.

The colour of that wire is as land rover loom, can be found at the rear of the dash.

Easy way to pick up illumination is to piggy back off the fag lighter lamp, just need +.
Post #53986 19th Jan 2011 8:00pm
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mse



Member Since: 06 Apr 2008
Location: UK
Posts: 5024

United Kingdom 2016 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 XS CSW Scotia Grey
Paul_1978 wrote:
Looking at the wiring diagram for the TD5, windows, heated seats, fuel pump etc are all controled in the +ve circuit.

Land Rover use earth to switch relays, as like you say this cuts down on cable runs, but in most high current circuits +ve is allways switched and the device bonded locally to earth, again cutting down on cables run.

Best practice is to switch +ve load on relay applications.


I actually beg to differ in this application.

Spotlights have their own +ve anyway without any input from the fact the switch is driving the earth circuit - the +ve is a feed from the battery via the relay to the lights all the earth feed is doing is the exact same thing as the +ve swtich feed - which is making the relay able to switch the current - both earth and feed only need an amp at most.

I also wouldnt wire it like that (although i accept its a wiring diagram issue probably) if i was wiring to +ve Mike
Post #53989 19th Jan 2011 8:02pm
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fekete



Member Since: 24 Dec 2008
Location: Here on the other end of the computer
Posts: 3626

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 HT Bonatti Grey
leeds wrote:
Fuse boxes?

Choices abound. Anything from an inline fuse to 4/6/8/12 fuse boxes.

Prices from a few £ to up to about £50

Which one to go for?

Well the ones we use in our vehicles are 12 fuse box with a common negative bus bar. We take negative cable from the equipment back to the fuse box and hence battery rather then using the chassis as earth return path. Hopefully helps avoid those potential earthing problems






If you have a twin battery set up don't put it in the main battery box (unlike Devon Rolling with laughter ) If you need to change fuses and have it in main battery box with twin batteries you may just have to take a battery out to replace a fuse! OK small hands, small batteries you might get away with it.

In black puma it is located in drivers box. In red overland vehicle it is in the battery box Banging Head Yes I need to sort out that battery box one day Whistle


HTH

Brendan

Brendan


Cheers Brendan that's the type of thing i'm looking at

Admin note: this post has had its images recovered from a money grabbing photo hosting site and reinstated Mr. Green  NEVER TAKE LIFE SERIOUSLY. NOBODY GETS OUT ALIVE ANYWAY
Post #53990 19th Jan 2011 8:03pm
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fekete



Member Since: 24 Dec 2008
Location: Here on the other end of the computer
Posts: 3626

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 HT Bonatti Grey
Paul_1978 wrote:
Quote:
Right guys what is the high beam warning lamp wire for 86 ?.........and do's the 12v dash illumination wire just connect to a live in the dash ?


The high beam wire is to supply +12v to the relay, so spots can not come on without high beam being selected on the stalk.

The colour of that wire is as land rover loom, can be found at the rear of the dash.

Easy way to pick up illumination is to piggy back off the fag lighter lamp, just need +.


Thanks and sorry for all the stupid questions i just want to get it right Thumbs Up NEVER TAKE LIFE SERIOUSLY. NOBODY GETS OUT ALIVE ANYWAY
Post #53992 19th Jan 2011 8:06pm
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mse



Member Since: 06 Apr 2008
Location: UK
Posts: 5024

United Kingdom 2016 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 XS CSW Scotia Grey
I kept them independent - the spots are higher wattage than the road allows in the UK anyway.

Plus its nice to have them as a back up should you need or on without mainbeam as well - when mine are on there is no need for mainbeam.

For those reasons it doesnt trigger from main beam Mike
Post #53993 19th Jan 2011 8:06pm
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Paul_1978



Member Since: 08 Nov 2009
Location: South Yorkshire
Posts: 384

England 2004 Defender 90 Td5 CSW Zermatt Silver
mse wrote:

I actually beg to differ in this application.

Spotlights have their own +ve anyway without any input from the fact the switch is driving the earth circuit - the +ve is a feed from the battery via the relay to the lights all the earth feed is doing is the exact same thing as the +ve swtich feed - which is making the relay able to switch the current - both earth and feed only need an amp at most.

I also wouldnt wire it like that (although i accept its a wiring diagram issue probably) if i was wiring to +ve


I think we are talking about different sides of the relay, in the diagram i posted, the relay is switched on the negative side with the switch and + side with the high beam, this is to control the relay.

On the power side of the relay, + is switched, which is normal practice, to supply power to the load.

If switching -, this means the + wire is live, and can short to earth causing fire if the fuse dosent blow. Also causes problems during maintenance, touching parts against the car.
Post #53994 19th Jan 2011 8:08pm
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fekete



Member Since: 24 Dec 2008
Location: Here on the other end of the computer
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United Kingdom 2007 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 HT Bonatti Grey
you guys are getting me all confused Big Cry with all your tec Censored about high current circuits and earth circuit Rolling with laughter Rolling with laughter NEVER TAKE LIFE SERIOUSLY. NOBODY GETS OUT ALIVE ANYWAY
Post #53995 19th Jan 2011 8:14pm
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fekete



Member Since: 24 Dec 2008
Location: Here on the other end of the computer
Posts: 3626

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 HT Bonatti Grey
mse wrote:
I kept them independent - the spots are higher wattage than the road allows in the UK anyway.

Plus its nice to have them as a back up should you need or on without mainbeam as well - when mine are on there is no need for mainbeam.

For those reasons it doesnt trigger from main beam


Mike this is how i want it independent.... will this diagram still work Whistle NEVER TAKE LIFE SERIOUSLY. NOBODY GETS OUT ALIVE ANYWAY
Post #53996 19th Jan 2011 8:17pm
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