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Home > Puma (Tdci) > Air box mod help please.
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Anderzander



Member Since: 08 Feb 2011
Location: Lancashire
Posts: 1000

United Kingdom 
I had a clunk behind the wheels and it was the bottom spring plate.
Post #423865 15th May 2015 8:15pm
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Caterham



Member Since: 06 Nov 2008
Location: Birmingham
Posts: 6341

England 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Stornoway Grey
Interesting....i'll have a look.

Here's the video

Click image to enlarge
....
Post #423887 15th May 2015 9:17pm
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Caterham



Member Since: 06 Nov 2008
Location: Birmingham
Posts: 6341

England 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Stornoway Grey
That'll be a picture then......How do u do a vid?
Post #423890 15th May 2015 9:18pm
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Happyoldgit



Member Since: 14 Sep 2007
Location: Norfolk
Posts: 3471

United Kingdom 2015 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 USW Corris Grey
Upload to Youtube, copy the link from the share option and post link here Smile Steve.
Owned numerous Land Rover vehicles of all shapes and sizes over the decades.
Current Defender: A non tarts hand-bagged Puma 110 XS USW.

[Insert something impressive here such as extensive list of previous Land Rovers or examples of your prestigeous and expensive items, trinkets, houses, bikes, vehicles etc]

http://forums.lr4x4.com

I used to be Miserable ...but now I'm ecstatic.
Post #423895 15th May 2015 9:26pm
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HardCharger



Member Since: 03 Mar 2013
Location: Manila
Posts: 765

Philippines 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SW Stornoway Grey
Going back to the air box mod, if I want to have a reasonably sealed air intake system, going straight tube from RAI to air box without sealing drain holes will work?

I don't intend to unnecessarily ford deep water but since it floods around these parts every now and then, it would be nice to be able to traverse, with a good bow wave and sealed intake system, without killing the truck. Of course this will also come in handy in trail conditions where you will have to cross occasional deep water.
Post #424357 18th May 2015 9:09am
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newhue



Member Since: 28 Apr 2014
Location: Brisbane
Posts: 351

Australia 
That's what I have done, siliconed the duck bill drain, siliconed around the guard intake, and ran 100mm pipe from there to the air filter. My Defender and travels
Post #425881 24th May 2015 11:09am
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Supacat



Member Since: 16 Oct 2012
Location: West Yorkshire
Posts: 11018

United Kingdom 2013 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 XS DCPU Keswick Green
I've heard of a couple and seen one video on youtube of an engine beign swamped and the issue was the sealing of the duck bill with silicone failing. Sealing a flexible slit is obviously harder than you think - maybe better to have a bung or some form of one way valve?
Post #425967 24th May 2015 8:22pm
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newhue



Member Since: 28 Apr 2014
Location: Brisbane
Posts: 351

Australia 
No doubt crossing water is a lottery, and the reason LR only recommend .5m. The possibilities of killing the donk from a small slit or crack somewhere in the intake system are real. To say she's good for a meter or bonnet height and warrant it is probably madness from a manufacturing perspective.
A bloke down here killed his Puma due the mechanic not fitting the air box lid correctly. It is a fiddly job stuffed up under the guard, and poor placement really in the first place. But the gap was there and the water made its way in.
I have silicon oozing out the duck bill and smeared around the bottom. Inside I finished the top off with the air box moulding so the grommet mounting/mounting lip is covered. 100% who knows. If I wasn't going to the Cape next year I probably would not bother, as it will probably be the only time the car crosses bonnet high water several times. All one can do is prepare and trust you have done a decent job of it. Personally I'd prefer a seamless approach to an inline drain approach. My Defender and travels
Post #425993 24th May 2015 10:14pm
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blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 17788

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
I know that this is resurrecting a VERY old thread, but I don't think that this question was ever answered:-


Supacat wrote:
Out of interest does anyone know what this refers to:

Click image to enlarge


is it the cyclone?

It's moulded into the inside of the the air box lid:


Click image to enlarge



In this case the "ring" refers to the steel reinforcing ring which is fitted inside the rim of the lid where the pipe from the airbox lid to the turbo is clamped. The ring is intended to prevent the lid collapsing when Mr Neutron overtightens the hose clip. I have never actually seen a lid without one, so the two part numbers may only be relevant to the manufacturing process.

The "PP-T20" marking, which you will find on a great many of the Defender's underbonnet plastic components, indicates that the component is made from polypropylene with a 20% by mass talc loading. This is a commonly used polymer in the motor industry, since it is tough, fairly heat resistant, and has a good balance of rigidity to flexibbility.

It is also. like most poplypropylene, polyethylene, and similar plastics with a low surface energy, notoriously difficult to glue with adhesives of any kind, or to get adhesives compounds (like sealant) to stick to.

I know that there are many on this forum who have done "the airbox mod". If you have, I'd be interested to know what sealant, adhesive, or mechanical technique you used to seal the holes where the centrifugal precleaner clipped in, and the two drain holes in the airbox, and how durable the method was.
Post #573935 28th Oct 2016 9:55am
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Supacat



Member Since: 16 Oct 2012
Location: West Yorkshire
Posts: 11018

United Kingdom 2013 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 XS DCPU Keswick Green
Excellent resurrection and indeed the question was never answered previously - but now I know - Thumbs Up
Post #574502 31st Oct 2016 9:17am
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