 | Home > Puma (Tdci) > Air box mod help please. |
 
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| Anderzander Member Since: 08 Feb 2011 Location: Lancashire Posts: 1000  
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I had a clunk behind the wheels and it was the bottom spring plate.
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15th May 2015 8:15pm |
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| Caterham Member Since: 06 Nov 2008 Location: Birmingham Posts: 6346  
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Interesting....i'll have a look.
Here's the video  Click image to enlarge.... |
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15th May 2015 9:17pm |
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| Caterham Member Since: 06 Nov 2008 Location: Birmingham Posts: 6346
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That'll be a picture then......How do u do a vid?
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15th May 2015 9:18pm |
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| Happyoldgit Member Since: 14 Sep 2007 Location: Norfolk Posts: 3471 
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Upload to Youtube, copy the link from the share option and post link here
 Steve.
Owned numerous Land Rover vehicles of all shapes and sizes over the decades. Current Defender: A non tarts hand-bagged Puma 110 XS USW. [Insert something impressive here such as extensive list of previous Land Rovers or examples of your prestigeous and expensive items, trinkets, houses, bikes, vehicles etc] http://forums.lr4x4.com I used to be Miserable ...but now I'm ecstatic. |
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15th May 2015 9:26pm |
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| newhue Member Since: 28 Apr 2014 Location: Brisbane Posts: 351 
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That's what I have done, siliconed the duck bill drain, siliconed around the guard intake, and ran 100mm pipe from there to the air filter. My Defender and travels
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24th May 2015 11:09am |
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| Supacat Member Since: 16 Oct 2012 Location: West Yorkshire Posts: 11018 
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I've heard of a couple and seen one video on youtube of an engine beign swamped and the issue was the sealing of the duck bill with silicone failing. Sealing a flexible slit is obviously harder than you think - maybe better to have a bung or some form of one way valve?
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24th May 2015 8:22pm |
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| newhue Member Since: 28 Apr 2014 Location: Brisbane Posts: 351
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No doubt crossing water is a lottery, and the reason LR only recommend .5m. The possibilities of killing the donk from a small slit or crack somewhere in the intake system are real. To say she's good for a meter or bonnet height and warrant it is probably madness from a manufacturing perspective.
A bloke down here killed his Puma due the mechanic not fitting the air box lid correctly. It is a fiddly job stuffed up under the guard, and poor placement really in the first place. But the gap was there and the water made its way in. I have silicon oozing out the duck bill and smeared around the bottom. Inside I finished the top off with the air box moulding so the grommet mounting/mounting lip is covered. 100% who knows. If I wasn't going to the Cape next year I probably would not bother, as it will probably be the only time the car crosses bonnet high water several times. All one can do is prepare and trust you have done a decent job of it. Personally I'd prefer a seamless approach to an inline drain approach. My Defender and travels |
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24th May 2015 10:14pm |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17823 
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I know that this is resurrecting a VERY old thread, but I don't think that this question was ever answered:-
In this case the "ring" refers to the steel reinforcing ring which is fitted inside the rim of the lid where the pipe from the airbox lid to the turbo is clamped. The ring is intended to prevent the lid collapsing when Mr Neutron overtightens the hose clip. I have never actually seen a lid without one, so the two part numbers may only be relevant to the manufacturing process. The "PP-T20" marking, which you will find on a great many of the Defender's underbonnet plastic components, indicates that the component is made from polypropylene with a 20% by mass talc loading. This is a commonly used polymer in the motor industry, since it is tough, fairly heat resistant, and has a good balance of rigidity to flexibbility. It is also. like most poplypropylene, polyethylene, and similar plastics with a low surface energy, notoriously difficult to glue with adhesives of any kind, or to get adhesives compounds (like sealant) to stick to. I know that there are many on this forum who have done "the airbox mod". If you have, I'd be interested to know what sealant, adhesive, or mechanical technique you used to seal the holes where the centrifugal precleaner clipped in, and the two drain holes in the airbox, and how durable the method was. |
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28th Oct 2016 9:55am |
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| Supacat Member Since: 16 Oct 2012 Location: West Yorkshire Posts: 11018
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Excellent resurrection and indeed the question was never answered previously - but now I know -
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31st Oct 2016 9:17am |
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