 | Home > Maintenance & Modifications > Front Shock Absorber Replacement |
 
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to get out. The trick is to push the hose down under the metal inter cooler connector pipe rather than pulling it up. You can also take out the captive bolt holding the air con pipe to give a bit more space.
Much easier going back on with new Gywn Lewis turrets; they take up much less room
| steveww Member Since: 05 Jan 2022 Location: Malton Posts: 592   
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As other people have already mentioned, changing the front dampers on PUMA models is a bit more fraught as there are various pipes, air box etc. in the way.
When I did mine I found that getting the old turret passed the various obstructions to be a right PITA. I was installing new Gwyn Lewis HD turrets and rings so I did not need the old original ones. I used a small cut off tool https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/clarke-cat...-off-tool/ to cut around the top of the turret. The much smaller top part of the turret and the old damper are much easier to pass through the limited space. Once the damper is out of the way, the bulky bottom part of the turret can come out sideways. |
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6th Mar 2023 3:31pm |
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| nitram17 Member Since: 09 Jun 2014 Location: newcastle Posts: 2261 |
just doing some scouting before i change my front shocks shocks (puma 2015) the turret plastic access cover on the wing shield appears very difficult to remove on the puma with aircon pipes on the near side as the airbox is in the way ......do you have to remove the airbiox first?
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20th May 2023 8:31pm |
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| piechipsandpeas Member Since: 12 May 2021 Location: Albany, Western Australia Posts: 227  
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Hey Nitram
Just done this last week new shocks all round. On the drivers side the screw hidden by the airbox can be unscrewed from under the wheel arch with a pair of pliers. No need to remove the airbox. When you refit you can screw it in upside down from inside the wheel arch with a screw driver. |
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21st May 2023 2:11pm |
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| nitram17 Member Since: 09 Jun 2014 Location: newcastle Posts: 2261 |
 is anybody concerned with the plastic turret cap not exactly being sealed very well and crud /dust making it into the engine bay?
just t confirm the torque settings for the shock bushes is 38 nm top and bottom ? |
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31st May 2023 11:49am |
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| jst Member Since: 14 Jan 2008 Location: Taunton Posts: 8248  
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It doesnt seal. Dont worry about Cheers
James 110 2010 XS Utility 130 2011 M57 bespoke Camper 90 2010 Hardtop 90 M57 1988 Hardtop |
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31st May 2023 4:10pm |
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| nitram17 Member Since: 09 Jun 2014 Location: newcastle Posts: 2261 |
Thanks jst ..changed my springs and didnt need spring compressors and you wont uless your using huge springs.
I simply used a procedure see ride confort thread bottle jack on axle to give enough room for springs to fall out. My drive is sloping so i cannot safely jack up both wheels. !.Remove turret cover 2.Jack up car on chassis axle stands for safety 3. Remove wheel 4.Jack under axle(bottle) of side your doing and support axle only. 5.Remove botton nut of shock(bracing shock with mole grips) 6.Remove turret nuts 7.lift out shock ant turret 8.lower jack on axle and remove 9.Place bottle jack on flat surface of bump stop on axle and jack up against chassis (pushing the axle down in controlled way)slowly in a controlled fashion being wary of brake hoses,springs will fall out ..no levering .pushing or shoving this should work for all except very long springs.  Click image to enlarge I was surprised how controlled it was and if i can do it anybody can.Obviously there is limit to the articulation due to the brake hoses but it should work easily enough on all but the larger springs. |
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10th Jun 2023 4:46pm |
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| TriniDaddy Member Since: 23 Nov 2020 Location: 10.57422, -61.28906 Posts: 39 
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Thank you thank you thank you!!!!
Completed the job last week. Lost one of the turret ring bolts though. Small price to pay, Will just drill a hole and fit a new bolt. Definitely changing to the stainless turrets next time around. 110 SW 2.4 IZUMI BLUE |
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10th Aug 2023 8:28pm |
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| Wobblehead Member Since: 06 Feb 2025 Location: East Sussex Posts: 1  
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For completeness and to stop any nasty surprises: On my 1986 n/a 110 the inside of the wing protrudes over the top of the suspension turret, which means that you cannot just unbolt it and pull it up through the wheel arch. In this case you have to jack up the chassis until you can make enough gap above the top of the spring in order to drop the mounting ring down so that the captive bolts no longer stick up through the turret. Then the turret can be slid outbaord enough that the lip clears the inside of the wheel arch and THEN the unit can be pulled up through the wheel arch.... oh, and the brake line is clamped to the back of the turret, so you need to lever open the metal fixing with a screwdrive (using fingers as a guide... it is not possible to see what is going on) so that you don't rip out the brake line when you pull the turret up.
There seem to be a number of idiosyncracies in these early 110s... and this one might be why the manuals go on about dropping the suspension to get the turret out; without this flange issue I wouldn't need to jack the chassis, but with the flange issue I do. On the plus side I can get enough of a gap with a highlift on the front of the chassis and no other messing (though be careful, the other roadwheel is almost off the ground at this point and the whole vehicle could fall of the jack sideways, although with the wheel still on it isn't that big of a deal. |
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6th Feb 2025 12:29am |
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| Tumbiri Member Since: 01 Nov 2016 Location: Caribbean Posts: 53 
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My front shock bushes were shot and when researching how to go about replacing them I came up with instructions that all seemed to point to the removal of the shocks up through the engine compartment. Of course, the Air Box is in the way on the driver's side, and a bunch of tubes and pipes on the passenger side. The Manual Instructions for my vehicle are as follows:
Removal 1. Loosen road wheel retaining nuts. 2. Support chassis on stands and remove road wheel. 3. Support axle weight with jack. 4. Remove shock absorber lower fixing and withdraw cupwasher, rubber bush and seating washer. 5. Remove four shock absorber bracket fixings. 6. Withdraw shock absorber and bracket assembly. 7. Withdraw lower seating washer, rubber bush and cupwasher. 8. Remove fixings, shock absorber to mounting bracket. 9. Withdraw mounting bracket. These instructions would work if you can get the shock and mounting bracket up through the engine compartment. Below is what worked for me. It took inside two hours to replace the bushes on both shocks. I would first recommend a mechanic with a car lift. It makes things so much easier. Here is what my mechanic did. Note: both sides have to be done at the same time. Removal: 1. Support chassis by lifting the vehicle. 2. Support the axle weight with jack. 3. Remove shock absorber lower fixings and withdraw cupwasher, rubber bush and seating washer. 4. Remove the two bolts for the coil spring lower seat. 5. Lower the axle and remove the coil spring lower seat and the coil spring. 6. Fully retract the shock absorber into the shock absorber bracket (turret). 7. Remove the four attachment bolts for the shock absorber bracket (turret). 8. Angle the shock absorber bracket (with the shock absorber inside) away from the wheel arch and remove the assembly. 9. Remove shock absorber upper fixings and remove shock absorber from the shock absorber bracket (turret). 10. Remove remaining cupwashers, rubber bushes and seating washers. All done and dusted with no stress! Reverse the instructions to re-install. |
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2nd May 2025 6:48pm |
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