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custom90



Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 19568

United Kingdom 
Following the workshop manual today re-fitting the turret rings there is no mention of torque figures.
So all are tightened to 40NM a figure that I thought would be appropriate.
Would you say this is about right / do you know the correct figures?
Feels about right too, I know over tightening could be disastrous also.

Any comments appreciated.
Post #350182 7th Aug 2014 6:43pm
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MartinK



Member Since: 02 Mar 2011
Location: Silverdale (Lancashire/Cumbria Border)
Posts: 2664

United Kingdom 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Orkney Grey
I'm sure I found 14Nm in the manual...that's what it says in my first post...

Yup - just found it again:

Quote:
Securing ring for mounting turret 14Nm


On Page 78 of my manual... Thumbs Up Defender "Puma" 2.4 110 County Utility (possibly the last of the 2.4's)
Post #350200 7th Aug 2014 8:16pm
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custom90



Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 19568

United Kingdom 
Thanks. Thumbs Up seems not very much though.
Shall have to loosen them back to that now. Confused
Post #350216 7th Aug 2014 9:17pm
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custom90



Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 19568

United Kingdom 
20NM would probably be best on this occasion because I have re-used the original rings anyway.
14NM would be for brand new rings and nuts.
Normally on re-used nuts and bolts (if used) they tighten up a little tighter when fitted again.
Wish I read the whole thread here first, think I missed printing a page of my manual. Whistle
Post #350220 7th Aug 2014 9:32pm
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custom90



Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 19568

United Kingdom 
Sorted the whole job now. Mr. Green Very pleased with the result and thanks Martin for the guide. Thumbs Up
I took just a couple of photos pre cleaned for others reference.
Turret rings were okay, just needed plenty of WD40 lubrication and a careful removal.
Gently does it to start them off and not wrench them, I loosed them in a 1 3 4 2 pattern to help too.
Most difficult job was the front shocks lower nuts because they are so stiff, I also had to cut off the top mounts on the old front shocks because there was no way they'd come off what ever I'd have tried being seized.
I never used any mole grips or similar like many others have as they do damage the shock surface unless your very careful.
I instead used a Boa tool that I have:

It did the whole job and it is not weak it held up for the lot even removing the old ones, even dirty and never damages the shock one bit.
All cleaned up and Dinitrolled whilst I was at it too.
This was pre cleaned but thought it'd be good for extra reference:


Click image to enlarge


Click image to enlarge
Post #350419 8th Aug 2014 10:32pm
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yetiman45



Member Since: 22 Dec 2014
Location: Tamworth
Posts: 69

England 2005 Defender 110 Td5 CSW Blenheim Silver
Imo if you need to remove the springs when doing this job don't use spring compresors. Landrover springs are pretty big and hold a lot of energy when compressed, Ive seen the results of compressors coming off when not used correctly and its not pretty. It's a bit long winded but the safest way is to jack the vehicle up and support the chassis on axle stands, then with the wheel removed let the axle drop (keep an eye on flexi brake hoses) then the spring will come out easily, you may have to just push the axle down a little for the last bit of clearance.
Post #381007 22nd Dec 2014 5:04pm
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excossack



Member Since: 22 Feb 2012
Location: North West
Posts: 5740

United Kingdom 1999 Defender 110 Td5 SW Caledonian Blue
Ok I give up. 2.5 hrs yesterday for one side. Top shock nut seized as was the bottom one.
Anyways after a fit with the grinder, buzz gun and swearing its out.
Shock out and spring out.

1.45hr today just finishing the passanger side. (well almost)
Its all back together now the only Censored is the top shock bolt in the turret.
How the hell do you compress the bushes enough to get the top wash on and the nut?
I can get the nut on to pull the shock up, but as soon as i remove the nut, the top of the shock goes too low to get the washer and the nut on?

Please....How...!!!!! 1999 Defender TD5 110

Regards
John M0VAZ
Econet Station 48 no clock
Post #444439 9th Aug 2015 11:47am
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Macpaul



Member Since: 26 Mar 2013
Location: SW Surrey
Posts: 439

United Kingdom 2013 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 USW Loire Blue
Do you still have the old bush stuck to the internal underside of the turret?

It's very hard to see as its all filthy up there.

Give it a prod and make sure you're back to bare metal.

Good luck 2003 Td5 110 Hardtop
Now a 2013 110 USW too.
Post #444517 9th Aug 2015 3:17pm
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excossack



Member Since: 22 Feb 2012
Location: North West
Posts: 5740

United Kingdom 1999 Defender 110 Td5 SW Caledonian Blue
Sussed! I had the bushes in the wrong order. I had two bushes below the turret. Once I had one below and one above the turret it all went back together ok !!! Doh! 1999 Defender TD5 110

Regards
John M0VAZ
Econet Station 48 no clock
Post #444523 9th Aug 2015 3:41pm
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custom90



Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 19568

United Kingdom 
Good thing you checked. Thumbs Up
The turrets are something I'm still considering as to go for D44 or stick to OE.
D44's have good access and are HD as well.

Don't need to decide yet though..
Post #444568 9th Aug 2015 6:27pm
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excossack



Member Since: 22 Feb 2012
Location: North West
Posts: 5740

United Kingdom 1999 Defender 110 Td5 SW Caledonian Blue
It was a good thing I checked. For me I have no need for HD turrets and I don't intend on changing shocks and springs again! 1999 Defender TD5 110

Regards
John M0VAZ
Econet Station 48 no clock
Post #444576 9th Aug 2015 6:37pm
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custom90



Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 19568

United Kingdom 
Bushes likely will let go at some point though, D44 turrets give better acess to remove top nut without having to bin the shock or cut them off.
The OE turret gives you no access to grip the top of the shocker, not without damaging it / the seal.
Post #444651 9th Aug 2015 9:07pm
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excossack



Member Since: 22 Feb 2012
Location: North West
Posts: 5740

United Kingdom 1999 Defender 110 Td5 SW Caledonian Blue
Very true Steve 1999 Defender TD5 110

Regards
John M0VAZ
Econet Station 48 no clock
Post #444652 9th Aug 2015 9:09pm
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custom90



Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 19568

United Kingdom 
How did you find it trying to get the right torque on the top nut?
When I changed them last they just tightened up enough to the torque setting without spinning.
Post #444653 9th Aug 2015 9:11pm
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excossack



Member Since: 22 Feb 2012
Location: North West
Posts: 5740

United Kingdom 1999 Defender 110 Td5 SW Caledonian Blue
I have tightened as much as I can but now it spins. So I will give it a day or so and tighten again by spanner and adjustable on the flat 1999 Defender TD5 110

Regards
John M0VAZ
Econet Station 48 no clock
Post #444816 10th Aug 2015 11:27am
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