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BajanRover



Member Since: 12 Feb 2021
Location: Barbados
Posts: 74

1995 Defender 130 300 Tdi HCPU Alaska White
PAT303 wrote:
Is the slave cylinder bleed nipple at the top?.


Yes, I believe it's at the top.
Post #969552 31st Oct 2022 6:04pm
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BajanRover



Member Since: 12 Feb 2021
Location: Barbados
Posts: 74

1995 Defender 130 300 Tdi HCPU Alaska White
I took some time off from the Landy because of work, so today I decided to sit inside and fiddle and what I've noticed is that both the T-case gear lever and the gearbox lever is stuck.

I can move the T-case lever to the left and right, but it won't select high or low.

Can this be a hidden clue to the issue?
Post #969553 31st Oct 2022 6:08pm
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BajanRover



Member Since: 12 Feb 2021
Location: Barbados
Posts: 74

1995 Defender 130 300 Tdi HCPU Alaska White
Impossible to select any gear while engine is running.
I managed to free the gear stick out of gear by pulling it back and forth.

Couple key things I've noted that hopefully should shed some light on this issue.

When I start the engine, I am hearing something rattling off and on, sounds like its coming from between the gear stick and where the gearbox mates to the engine.

While the engine is on its impossible to select any gear, it rakes and prevents me from sliding the gear stick into any gear.

When the engine is off, I am able to select the gear stick into any gear, but it feels gritty when I do.... not smooth at all.

I have good pressure at the clutch pedal.

Could it be that I damaged the pressure plate and clutch when trying to mate the gearbox to the engine previously?

I highly doubt its anything to do with gears or Syncros seeing as I can't get into any gear whatsoever when the engine is on.
Post #979408 23rd Jan 2023 6:29pm
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TexasRover



Member Since: 24 Nov 2022
Location: Paris
Posts: 790

France 2002 Defender 110 Td5 DCPU Chawton White
I would focus on clutch bleeding first. Your clutch is not disengaging, maybe because you have air in the system. Your gear lever was stuck as there was pressure on the gears. You can shift with TC in neutral smoothly because of the synchros.

Try removing the slave from the bell and pushing the plunger in to push the fluid (and air) upwards.

Possibly budget is tight but not changing the clutch and pressure plate unless you know the clutch is fairly new looks to me like an opportunity missed. I would also change that flexi to avoid getting stranded.
Post #979422 23rd Jan 2023 7:14pm
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BajanRover



Member Since: 12 Feb 2021
Location: Barbados
Posts: 74

1995 Defender 130 300 Tdi HCPU Alaska White
Alright i will attempt removing the SC now and update you, to be honest i did see some ballooning on the flex cable going to the slave but i believe it was like that before i changed out the clutch fork.

Also what do you think might be the rattling noise while the engine is running and the gearbox is in neutral?
Post #979427 23rd Jan 2023 7:22pm
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BajanRover



Member Since: 12 Feb 2021
Location: Barbados
Posts: 74

1995 Defender 130 300 Tdi HCPU Alaska White
So, I decided to take the engine out and since I've done that I've stumbled on some findings.

1. The clip that holds the throw-out bearing to the fork was missing which means the bearing will not retract with the fork after the clutch pedal has been pressed.

2. The splined shaft that goes into the clutch from the gearbox is shaking, is this a problem or is it supposed to be shimmering around?

Can these findings be the determining factor to why I can't select any gear without grinding as well as the rattling noise as well I hear inside the gearbox bell housing while the truck is idling and in Neutral?
Post #979859 26th Jan 2023 1:13pm
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TexasRover



Member Since: 24 Nov 2022
Location: Paris
Posts: 790

France 2002 Defender 110 Td5 DCPU Chawton White
Best to have all of the clips in place, although maybe they don't fundamentally change the operation I think.

the gearbox splined input shaft is support by the pilot bearing in the flywheel. Together with the bearing inside the gearbox obviously the shaft will not move around at all.

If the shaft is moving the pilot bearing might be broken or badly worn (not uncommon at all), or the input shaft is bend. Maybe you bent the input shaft during assembly but I would think that would be a pretty strong shaft to bend.
Post #979868 26th Jan 2023 3:04pm
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BajanRover



Member Since: 12 Feb 2021
Location: Barbados
Posts: 74

1995 Defender 130 300 Tdi HCPU Alaska White
I agree....

So do you think the rattling sound coming from the gearbox tunnel could very well be the input shaft vibrating inside of the pilot bearing?

And finally do you think the ballooning of the hydraulic hose going to the slave could result in me being unable to shift into any gear?
Post #979913 26th Jan 2023 7:48pm
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BajanRover



Member Since: 12 Feb 2021
Location: Barbados
Posts: 74

1995 Defender 130 300 Tdi HCPU Alaska White
What also doesn't add up to me is that why would the bearing be making noise if the gearbox is in neutral? Shouldn't the shaft be stationary once the gearbox is in neutral?

I'm assuming it would make noise when a gear is selected.

I stand corrected if I'm wrong.
Post #979921 26th Jan 2023 8:37pm
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BajanRover



Member Since: 12 Feb 2021
Location: Barbados
Posts: 74

1995 Defender 130 300 Tdi HCPU Alaska White
TexasRover wrote:
I would focus on clutch bleeding first. Your clutch is not disengaging, maybe because you have air in the system. Your gear lever was stuck as there was pressure on the gears. You can shift with TC in neutral smoothly because of the synchros.

Try removing the slave from the bell and pushing the plunger in to push the fluid (and air) upwards.

Possibly budget is tight but not changing the clutch and pressure plate unless you know the clutch is fairly new looks to me like an opportunity missed. I would also change that flexi to avoid getting stranded.


Question Texas, what's the reason for pushing the rod back into the slave cylinder? Am I looking for bubbles at the top of the reservoir at the master cylinder?

Final question i hope lol. have you had any experience or heard about a ballooning hydraulic line being the sole cause of being unable to select all gears?

I'm thinking to just get the clip for the throughout bearing to ensure proper alignment and a new hydraulic line to replace the ballooned one currently on the truck, put everything back together and pray for the best. Big Cry

Appreciate your time Thumbs Up
Post #979922 26th Jan 2023 8:45pm
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BajanRover



Member Since: 12 Feb 2021
Location: Barbados
Posts: 74

1995 Defender 130 300 Tdi HCPU Alaska White
Now the engine won't turn over *sigh*
TexasRover wrote:
Best to have all of the clips in place, although maybe they don't fundamentally change the operation I think.

the gearbox splined input shaft is support by the pilot bearing in the flywheel. Together with the bearing inside the gearbox obviously the shaft will not move around at all.

If the shaft is moving the pilot bearing might be broken or badly worn (not uncommon at all), or the input shaft is bend. Maybe you bent the input shaft during assembly but I would think that would be a pretty strong shaft to bend.


So i changed the MC , SC and clutch hose as well as the clutch fork, bolted the sucker back with the gearbox..... and now when i swing the key all i'm hearing is the starter clicking which by the way is a starter i got only a year ago and was working perfectly before i tore down.

This is giving me engine seizure vybes.... which doesnt make sense because it was working before i took the engine out.

I checked the wiring from the battery to the starter and everything is tight and connected.
Post #981556 6th Feb 2023 9:45pm
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Dave T



Member Since: 07 Jun 2013
Location: Glasgow
Posts: 487

United Kingdom 1994 Defender 90 300 Tdi SW Cairns Blue
You tried turning it over by hand with a socket on the main crank bolt? After checking all cabling is ok, it’s fairly simple to whip the starter out and test it with jump leads. Sometimes the cog on the end (forgive the name, can’t remember proper name) that comes out gets a little stuck, it may just need a bit of freeing of and use 2015 RRS Autobiography SDV6
1994 Def 90 300tdi
Post #981569 6th Feb 2023 10:28pm
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BajanRover



Member Since: 12 Feb 2021
Location: Barbados
Posts: 74

1995 Defender 130 300 Tdi HCPU Alaska White
Thanks Dave, I will give those suggestions a try tomorrow morning and update.
Post #981580 6th Feb 2023 11:14pm
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Dave T



Member Since: 07 Jun 2013
Location: Glasgow
Posts: 487

United Kingdom 1994 Defender 90 300 Tdi SW Cairns Blue
maybe give it a tap before removing..........you never know Whistle Whistle 2015 RRS Autobiography SDV6
1994 Def 90 300tdi
Post #981642 7th Feb 2023 1:15pm
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BajanRover



Member Since: 12 Feb 2021
Location: Barbados
Posts: 74

1995 Defender 130 300 Tdi HCPU Alaska White
Yes, I will do that as well before I go unbolting anything, also I had a question that was on my mind...

When I installed the Vacuum pump, I didn't put the engine at TDC, will this cause the cam to jam against the lift mechanism of the vacuum pump?
Post #981691 7th Feb 2023 6:26pm
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