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Co1



Member Since: 19 Aug 2018
Location: North Yorkshire
Posts: 3605

United Kingdom 2013 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 HT Loire Blue
Great detail as always. Looking forward to the running video!
Post #959656 27th Jul 2022 5:19am
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JOW240725



Member Since: 04 May 2015
Location: Suffolk
Posts: 7866

United Kingdom 2012 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 XS CSW Orkney Grey
Sounds complicated to say the least! Shocked

Hope all goes well with first start up, nerve racking I bet! James
MY2012 110 2.2TDCi XS SW Orkney Grey - http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic43410.html
MY1990 110 200TDi SW beautifully faded Portofino Red - https://www.defender2.net/forum/post743641.html#743641
MY1984 90 V8 Slate Grey - https://www.defender2.net/forum/post744557.html#744557
Instagram @suffolk_rovers
Post #959660 27th Jul 2022 6:41am
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mrfirepro



Member Since: 06 Nov 2020
Location: kent
Posts: 218

United Kingdom 1996 Defender 90 300 Tdi HT Bonatti Grey
Will what a fantastic day, wasn't all plain sailing but it's finally running and super smooth.


Notes

The two rad fans were directly wired to the alternator as part of the GM loom without any fuses, so we wired in a couple of inline fuses. (blew 15 amp fuses, finally setteled on 20 amp fuses)

The Futuranet interface between the JLR and GM controllers all worked straight out of the box, and as you can see from the video we were getting a lot of data via the OBD port.

Now some honesty, in all my planning and thinking, Embarassed I had missed running a 150 amp cable from the battery to the alternator, how I missed this, god only knows, as it's only a minor, very small detail.. right.......But running it with everything in place was not at all fun.

I am assuming the temp and fuel sender gauges need me to position the needles correctly so that they both read correctly but they appear to be reading OK. (I'll do this when I put the new petrol V8 dials in)

There is something happening with the handbrake ground cable, the air suspension should only go into access with it grounded however the light on the dash is intermittant and I need to do some more testing, I'm open to comments.

I can now top up the trans with fluid as it needs the engine running, so will also know if that helps the shifter position indicator which upto now had only shown P and N.

To the main event.....We removed the trans relay from the GM loom which killed all the ignition and turned the engine over to prime and make sure we got good engine oil pressure which was just below 40 psi (the manual states minimum of 6 psi, did wonder if we had too much pressure)

We topped up all fluids, the cooling system took a total of 17 litres and the power steering took 1.7 Litres, the noise when first started is coming from the PAS pump which disappeared when we finally got enough fluid into it.

As far as we can find everything is working...enjoy the video.

Post #959736 27th Jul 2022 4:58pm
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Co1



Member Since: 19 Aug 2018
Location: North Yorkshire
Posts: 3605

United Kingdom 2013 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 HT Loire Blue
What a milestone!! Sounds immense, you just be chuffed!!
Post #959742 27th Jul 2022 5:10pm
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mrfirepro



Member Since: 06 Nov 2020
Location: kent
Posts: 218

United Kingdom 1996 Defender 90 300 Tdi HT Bonatti Grey
I'm really pleased with the outcome of the electrical works, everything (nearly everytyhing) is now installed and is working. here are some tips that may help if doing something similar.

1. The neutral safety switch has to be connected into the GM loom pin 58 on the black plug. The numbering of this plug is hard to see and there is conflicting info on the net. Pin 58 has a White/Grey wire and is the trans signal for Nueutral.

2. I bought some extention looms (for double din conversion and some extra switches) however the existing LR loom was long enough when the wires to each switch were deloomed (if thats a word Laughing )

3.Found that the switches worked differently switching grounds on some and positive on others and also the illumination was different between the switches. If I'd known this beforehand I'd have saved some heartache.

4. eventually could not avoid a connection between centre console and battery box, I should have installed this when the seat box was out.

5. It's not a good idea to undo the pos battery terminal with a socket and touch the body Embarassed Embarassed Embarassed

The only issue oustanding is to do with the handbrake switch which is used by the electronic handbrake, the transmission and the air suspension. All these systems rely on the gounding of this wire and all of the systems work when grounding the appropriate wires however, when we connect in the OE cable (assume it goes back to the dash) the whole circuit works one minute and not the next and sometimes the dash handbrake light is on/off/flickering I'm assuming this is to do with something I've installed, I'd be interested in any suggestions....

Belive it or not this picture was nearly at the end of whole wiring works


Click image to enlarge


With all the electrics installed in the cubby box, there is now way the central panel was every going to be removed for access, so have made an access panel in the rear tub for this area along with the fuel tank.


Click image to enlarge


The next focus is going to be the body work.
Post #960443 3rd Aug 2022 5:25pm
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mrfirepro



Member Since: 06 Nov 2020
Location: kent
Posts: 218

United Kingdom 1996 Defender 90 300 Tdi HT Bonatti Grey
with all the wiring nearly completed


Click image to enlarge


it is onto the audio setup, to make sure all holes and wiring routes are in place before the trimming starts, here are some pics of the items and progress.

Started by fitting the double din unit to the facia, I opted for the shallow Kenwood unit



Click image to enlarge


and made some retainers for the remote switch panel


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Not the neatest job but can tidy it up later

Switch panel and double din fitted


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Audio kit I used


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Was testing the Bluetooth dongle and apple car play and it all seems to work quite well.


Click image to enlarge


where is the best place to fix these?


Click image to enlarge



Click image to enlarge


Also, the tweeter seem to be a quite a loose fitting in the cup mount, is this usual? is there a better way or have I missed something??
Post #963579 31st Aug 2022 7:45pm
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Co1



Member Since: 19 Aug 2018
Location: North Yorkshire
Posts: 3605

United Kingdom 2013 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 HT Loire Blue
For the tweeters, wrap them in insulation tape to give them a bit more bulk, you don’t need much, 3 or 4 wraps will be enough to get them snug.

I used double sided 3m foam strips, about 50mm by 25mm to secure the filters or whatever they’re called!

Don’t know why your bothering though, what could you possibly want to listen to other than what’s under the bonnet?!!
Post #963582 31st Aug 2022 8:08pm
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mrfirepro



Member Since: 06 Nov 2020
Location: kent
Posts: 218

United Kingdom 1996 Defender 90 300 Tdi HT Bonatti Grey
help please, I've got two different OS front wing looms. I am assuming one was on the van (with resistor) and one was from the donor bulkhead (probably a later year??).

The original loom has this


Click image to enlarge


I assume this is the dip dim resistor that puts the (voltage limited) out put from the side lights to the dipped beam, when the side lights are on. (I've read 10% output somewhere??)

But the loom I've installed on the car does not have this connector.

is this Ok or am I missing something???

One other item is that my DRL's are always on whilst charging the battery, I'm using an AGM battery and a really good charger, any suggestions on how to stop this as right now I'm removing the fuse. Depedning on reponses I may wire from a switched output rather than a permenant output????
Post #964201 6th Sep 2022 6:43pm
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LandRoverAnorak



Member Since: 17 Jul 2011
Location: Surrey
Posts: 11240

United Kingdom 2013 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 USW Orkney Grey
Yes, you'll be ok to use the loom without the dim dip resistor. It's s stupid system anyway.

Many DRL systems use what is effectively a voltage sensing relay and it looks like your is being triggered by the charger. Rather than a switch, you could make the feed ignition live rather than permanent live, which would solve the problem. Darren

110 USW BUILD THREAD - EXPEDITION TRAILER - 200tdi 90 BUILD THREAD - SANKEY TRAILER - IG@landroveranorak

"You came in that thing? You're braver than I thought!" - Princess Leia
Post #964212 6th Sep 2022 8:17pm
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mrfirepro



Member Since: 06 Nov 2020
Location: kent
Posts: 218

United Kingdom 1996 Defender 90 300 Tdi HT Bonatti Grey
Thanks for your comments and help, I did eventually rewire the DRL's to a switched live and that sorted the issues.

Not been a lot of time spent on this project but here's what been going on.

Been doing a bit of work with the brakes


Click image to enlarge


I bought a diagnostics dongle so that I could actuate the ABS valves and properly bleed the brakes. I bled the brakes in the conventional manner and the pedal is solid, however when I finish with the power bleed function nothing happens at all, no fluid is discharged. I've tried several times buit always the same result, is this normal or not?? the ABS valves seem to go though the self bleed function all OK.

opted for the Startec steering wheel ready for trimming.


Click image to enlarge


Also added an optimill boss


Click image to enlarge


Made the hole for the paneramic roof and fitted that and the fixed sunroof so that the roof could go off to the body shop.


Click image to enlarge



Click image to enlarge



Click image to enlarge


The body shop now has more of the project than I do Laughing

Over the next few weeks I'm getting all the interior ready to take up to Transcal for trimming.

Thats it for now, hopefully I'll start getting painted parts back from the body shop soon.

Oh and I finally found a wireless charger that is going to look good in the cubby box lid


Click image to enlarge
Post #969795 2nd Nov 2022 11:59pm
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Co1



Member Since: 19 Aug 2018
Location: North Yorkshire
Posts: 3605

United Kingdom 2013 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 HT Loire Blue
No half measured here eh?! Great work, as per usual!
Post #969797 3rd Nov 2022 6:16am
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JOW240725



Member Since: 04 May 2015
Location: Suffolk
Posts: 7866

United Kingdom 2012 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 XS CSW Orkney Grey
Great to catch up with this project, very inspiring! Can't wait to see it finish! Thumbs Up Bow down James
MY2012 110 2.2TDCi XS SW Orkney Grey - http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic43410.html
MY1990 110 200TDi SW beautifully faded Portofino Red - https://www.defender2.net/forum/post743641.html#743641
MY1984 90 V8 Slate Grey - https://www.defender2.net/forum/post744557.html#744557
Instagram @suffolk_rovers
Post #969799 3rd Nov 2022 6:38am
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Pickles



Member Since: 26 May 2013
Location: Melbourne
Posts: 3748

Australia 2013 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 CSW Keswick Green
Panoramic roof=unreal,....never seen anything like it on a Defender before.
Brilliant work, & an enthralling thread.
Thank You, Pickles.
Post #969897 3rd Nov 2022 10:18pm
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GREENI



Member Since: 22 Aug 2010
Location: staffs
Posts: 10354

United Kingdom 
Nice job. Very.
Post #969905 4th Nov 2022 6:16am
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mrfirepro



Member Since: 06 Nov 2020
Location: kent
Posts: 218

United Kingdom 1996 Defender 90 300 Tdi HT Bonatti Grey
I've not done a lot recently as I've sent the project to the guys at Mahker for a new exhaust and a new larger fuel tank.

I wasn't particularly unhappy with my existing exhaust except the sound and the rear section Embarassed . My project is in parts of this video from Mahker.



I've also taken the whole interior to Transcal, I'm hopeful I'll have it all back at some stage in March.

The body shop is also ready to give my the front end, so loooks like it will be a busy 6 months, may even get the thing finished in 2023 Laughing Laughing
Post #975735 26th Dec 2022 8:48am
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