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custom90steve



Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West England
Posts: 18777

United Kingdom 
As above ISO colours are your friend here. Diesels Lives Matter.
Like Thunder We Do Roll’
Post #916609 12th Aug 2021 7:07pm
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Matt110



Member Since: 29 Jun 2014
Location: UK
Posts: 633

United Kingdom 
I'm confused....

This is on a boat so slightly off topic but the boat is getting my old Alpine headunit that came with my 110, so vaguely relevant!

The boat headunit connection...



The connection on the back of my alpine unit...



Click image to enlarge


How on earth do I connect these 2 together Rolling with laughter Rolling with laughter
Post #960082 31st Jul 2022 10:56am
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DSC-off



Member Since: 16 Oct 2014
Location: North East
Posts: 1112

United Kingdom 2015 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 XS CSW Aintree Green
I don't know what/if the boat is a standard connector, so converting both to ISO might be the easiest option.

The Alpine unit leads to iso are readily available and cheap. (NOT THIS ONE, SEE EDIT)
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/181844938646?mk...s=ispr%3D1


Click image to enlarge


Determining what the boat is and if leads are available will be the hard part.

In the old days everyone butchered looms and leads to make connections, hardly anyone would recommend that approach today.

Edit,
The boat connector looks to be this one.
https://www.jpmsupply.com/product-p/95357.htm

Buying both the Alpine lead and the connector, using both to make a custom lead may be the way to go.



There are 2 versions of the Alpine plug, white with round pins, or black with square pins. Looks like you need the black one, NOT the white one pictured and linked above.


Click image to enlarge
Post #960091 31st Jul 2022 11:32am
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Matt110



Member Since: 29 Jun 2014
Location: UK
Posts: 633

United Kingdom 
Thanks so much for the feedback really appreciate that. Great find. Will get something ordered later.
Post #960131 31st Jul 2022 6:27pm
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custom90steve



Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West England
Posts: 18777

United Kingdom 
In effect the HU rear socket takes a an Alpine specific connector, that then terminates to a DIN ISO connector which is common to all aftermarket manufacturer head unit makes.

The vehicle (or boat) connector) is specific to itself, sometimes like in the case of the 2007 to 2012 Defender you can plug straight into it as the vehicle is DIN ISO connectors.

As all aftermarket head units terminate to a DIN ISO can typically get an adaptor specific to the vehicles connector that terminates to DIN ISO so then you can plug into that.
So vehicle connector > to adaptor connector > din ISO connector >|<din> head unit connector.

DSC Off has covered it above for you above, I’d suggest checking the permanent and ignition live are the right way around also.

If you want to you can fit DIN ISO male connectors to the vehicle or boat, which removes the need for an adaptor loom but means you’d need to identify the connections, crimp new crimp connections following a DIN ISO wiring diagram readily available online.
But can be tricky with little room, and you’d need at least a basic uninsulated crimp tool.
(You can get the DIN ISO male connectors and terminals on eBay)

So it’s common to simply use an adaptor instead which means more connectors but simply plug in but with a little more wiring bulk than needed. Diesels Lives Matter.
Like Thunder We Do Roll’
Post #960161 31st Jul 2022 10:49pm
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balmybaldwin



Member Since: 17 Apr 2021
Location: Surrey
Posts: 153

United Kingdom 2002 Defender 90 Td5 CSW Buckingham Blue
Does anyone know what the connector is called that goes from the ISO harness into the vehicle? As mine was a hard top I've only got the female pins for front speakers, and want to add some rears but I need to add extra female connectors into the connector (the head unit and ISO harness have the outputs) They are round, approx 3mm in diameter
Post #960569 4th Aug 2022 7:11pm
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custom90steve



Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West England
Posts: 18777

United Kingdom 
You would need to look it up for the vehicle model and year, I think places like Mud U.K. do these looms and some others.

There are various things you can do with the connectors, such as with mine the head unit is powered by the standard vehicle power plug but the speaker plug is not used and disconnected as I use RCA outputs instead which is a more clean signal and separately upgrade speaker wiring between speaker and Amplifier.
Original speaker wiring just gets tucked away.

As some of you may have noticed from my other posts regarding windscreen wiper replacement.
This meant I had to take the whole dash out, which was an ideal chance to do a wiring tidy up.

Whilst doing that, I was wondering if I could improve my DAB signal, it was working previously but I knew it could be bettered.
I had noticed the signal had declined a little after some other items were fitted such as USB power supplies and items like that.

So a few items that were not of concern with heat generation I wrapped in Mylar foil and loom tape, do not do this with anything that generates heat like a small amplifier or needs ventilation with a fan etc.
I also fitted ferrite clips all over the place on power supplies inputs about 2” back from each device some times on both ends of the cable.
Only required on power supplies, so ground and live often both fit in the same ferrite clips.
Surprisingly I needed two bags of multi size ferrite clips so around £20 in total.

To add to this I bought some 50mm wide adhesive aluminium tape and some 20mm double sided tape and made a hybrid Mylar / foil sleeve using the Mylar foil, the aluminium foil (because it’s a bit thicker) and the double sided tape to adhere the sleeve around the cable.
Finished off by a wrap of cloth loom tape, which means the cable won’t be all taped up and the lot would come off it need be. (The double sided tape seals the sleeve to each surface so the inner cable has no adhesive on it only the Mylar / Alu tape non sticky back on it so it can slide on the cable plus no residues if removed).
I fitted this sleeving to the entire DAB Antenna cable under the wing, so as this was outside I used adhesive PVC electrical tape until through the bulkhead rubber, from there then I swapped over to the cloth loom tape.
So I continued doing that using 2m overlapping sleeves until finished all the way back to the AM / FM connector and DAB Connector on the HU box or unit.
I did the same with he cable between the HU and the DAB box.
Zip tied the antennas cables behind the bulkhead bar that’s behind there and kept it as far away from electric units and power supplies as possible as I also did the same with RCA signal cables which can go with it in places.

Basically segregate RCA and Radio signal as far away from electronic boxes or power wires and cables as possible.
Secured the DAB unit so it was not in contact with any metal parts and also a bit of aluminium foil tape in places over factory loom just to block a little EMI.
Not too much or that would trap heat but strategic placement.

Tested today for the first time and more DAB stations scanned and picked up, definitely has worked and FM is even more clear too.
Better than before for sure and better than new with the Nak antenna
(which is good in its own right anyway).
So definitely the EMI blocking exercise did work and so did the ferrite clips / chokes, there are a few places some more ferrite clips could go on still if ever I remove anything such as headlights but overall the exercise was worth it.

I made my own EMI blocking sleeving and in the process that only cost around £12 to do what must be 6 meters or more, you can buy EMI shielding wrap off the shelf but expect to pay £12 - £16 per meter.


Either way, it does work I have noticed a difference and where I park and tested it signal isn’t easy to gain anyway between walls and buildings but it picked up a better signal across the board.
More clarity, more stations and on FM as a well as DAB.

So if ever you feel like such a job or the dash is out it’s worth considering doing these things.

If you wanted to make your own wrap all you have to do is lie the Mylar foil down with about a 1.8m length approx (6ft give or take) stick the 50mm aluminium tape along it.
Stick the 20mm double sided tape adjacent to on Mylar sheet (butt against the edge of the Alu tape)
Don’t take off the other side of the double sided backing yet.

Cut off the excess Mylar each side of the Alu tape and double sided, then you can wrap the cable bit by as you pull off the double side tape backing tape so the cable is left in a sleeve with the double sided tape stuck to each side of the Mylar with the Aluminium tape non adhesive tape side inside against the cable (think a hammock shape).
Then you can wrap it around a little and it’ll keep its shape due to the aluminium tape, and when you need more length just overlap a little.
Then you can use some PVC electrical tape or cloth loom tape over that, which prevents rattles, keeps bulk down and stops contact with other things and acts as a isolator.

My RCA cables are EMI shielded as standard, but I also rerouted them all to keep them away from power wires also.
There is further clarity in the audio and less white noise (not that there was much beforehand).

So the moral is ferrite clips and EMI shielding does work when used strategically and where required.

I do have DVB-T (Freeview tv plus dual antennas for that). However, I haven’t tested that yet and only half of the antenna cable is shielded so far. (As the unit is bending dash and is shield and antenna into us behind the dash but terminated just at dash edge before going up A pillar trim and towards the roof.
I’ll continue with that shielding soon when I get time and try that as well.

Obviously these AV things are only for use when parked and not whilst actually driving for very obvious reasons. Diesels Lives Matter.
Like Thunder We Do Roll’
Post #960752 5th Aug 2022 11:05pm
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Matt110



Member Since: 29 Jun 2014
Location: UK
Posts: 633

United Kingdom 
DSC-off wrote:


There are 2 versions of the Alpine plug, white with round pins, or black with square pins. Looks like you need the black one, NOT the white one pictured and linked above.


Click image to enlarge


So interestingly - bought the black one, as i absolutely agree its that one that should fit, doesn't go in. Same pin pattern, same size pins, looks like it SHOULD go in, but stops as the pins appear very slightly wider than the new plug.

So given I tried an Ebay seller, i may nip in to halfords and get an adaptor and actually get them to plug it in whilst its there to avoid any issues.

Frustrating to be so near but so far!!! Rolling with laughter Rolling with laughter
Post #961330 11th Aug 2022 11:39am
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