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| Matt110 Member Since: 29 Jun 2014 Location: UK Posts: 673  
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How you getting on Steve?
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3rd Apr 2021 12:14pm |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 19574
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Good Matt, thank-you for asking.
How are you?
Still working on my install, mostly done but there is some more to go, this summer should be the benchmark I’m hoping for completion. It is a big ol’ install, and I’ve had to wait many times for shipping from the States. Having free time from working, various other commitments and of course Covid put the axe into my hope of finishing it up last year. This is looking good for this year though. Funny enough, I’ve been doing some more work to it just today, and I have another package on route from the USA as we speak. 
Most of the really hard work, and tricky, tedious jobs are already complete. Diesel$ Live$ Matter. ⛽️🛢️👨🔧🧰⚙️ RED, WHITE & BOOST! 🇬🇧 |
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3rd Apr 2021 6:50pm |
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| Matt110 Member Since: 29 Jun 2014 Location: UK Posts: 673
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Sounds excellent. Have you got a spec list of what you're aiming at?
Just out of interest having got my system up and running with the stinger RCA cables you suggested the whole system sounds dramatically better so that was money well spent. Currently trying to solve my rather boomy sub performance. I've got a 12" JL W0V3 in the back in a ported JL enclosure and it's phenomenal but only if I tune it to specific types of music. The ports stuffing up good "general" sound it seems. So thinking of bringing the port up (slot) with thick foam piece and seeing if that fixes it. Tried an 8" sealed JL sub and it sounded much less boomy but lost something in the sizing. Sure there's a happy medium in there somewhere. |
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3rd Apr 2021 7:14pm |
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| familymad Member Since: 13 Dec 2011 Location: Bucks Posts: 3463  
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Really nice. Did you do much soundproofing as part of the install? 1951 80" S1 2.0
1995 110 300TDI 1995 90 300TDI |
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3rd Apr 2021 9:20pm |
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| Matt110 Member Since: 29 Jun 2014 Location: UK Posts: 673
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Did on mine yep sides and floor but only to the front of the rear seat box, but then mine seems pretty rigid now as it's got an external cage and I've made up a cross beam side to side to fit my daughter's isofix seat to. So it's all very solid now.
Pondering looking up the port tune frequency and deliberately running that right down in EQ in the headunit equaliser. Just that somehow that feels wrong? Like I'm cheating somehow lol feels like I shouldn't have to do that. Don't think I'd buy another ported sub. |
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3rd Apr 2021 9:58pm |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 19574
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I’ve always stuck with sealed sub boxes personally, but bear in mind each sub enclosure whatever that may be has a cubic internal volume to suit. Bigger Subs need extra internal volume as well.
The internal volume is typically provided by the manufacturer of the sub. I aimed for the higher end (80 / 90%) of the maximum internal volume on mine, which is where you will get best bass but you mustn’t go too far. The smaller the sub the more punchy it will be, and more accurate, but will lose some of the real deep bass frequency that larger Subs do. Larger subs are obviously more powerful, and drop to lower frequency and bass but they are less accurate in response. There are some subs that are specifically designed for shallow smaller enclosures with smaller internal volume. It’s always worth ensuring the gain is set just right on the Amplifier, glad to hear the RCA’s are sounding good Matt.
If you are getting booming bass, check for vibration especially the roof if it’s in the rear. That could well be it, due to vibration created by the sub. If it is that Dynamat or similar soundproofing is the answer to that. I will have three Amps, the same 8’ sub I always had, two tweets, 8x speakers. Power output from what I had before will be doubled, and I was quite happy before so should be really good. Diesel$ Live$ Matter. ⛽️🛢️👨🔧🧰⚙️ RED, WHITE & BOOST! 🇬🇧 |
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4th Apr 2021 8:36pm |
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| doncarloz Member Since: 29 Oct 2017 Location: Styria Posts: 60  
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Hi guys!
I installed the following in my 110 DC: Focal IBUS 2.1 (mudstuff undercubby box) Focal PS 130 F Alpine Headunit The system works fine so far, especially the active sub  , but the droning noises coming from the cubby box are quite severe.
How did you guys adress that? I was thinking about putting some alubutyl (Reckhorn) into the mudstuff subwoofer enclosure before mounting the sub in it. Do you have any other suggestions how I could reduce those droning noises? I know that this mounting spot is a compromise, but my Landy is a workhorse, so space is limited and I don´t have any other mounting options. Cheers Karl ___________________________________ 1993 D1 200 Tdi 2015 110 DCPU 2.2 Tdci 2017 RRS 3.0 TDV6 |
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15th Apr 2021 8:37pm |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 19574
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Soundproofing such as Dynamat is your friend, my sub is in the same area. And it works well and solves the problem largely.
On mine I Dynamatted the whole of the seat box and the covers individually and the bases of the seat boxes inside. Any panel with a large thin surface area will create booming, you don’t actually need to soundproof everything but on mine I chose to do just that on them. Once done you’ll be surprised at the difference. Diesel$ Live$ Matter. ⛽️🛢️👨🔧🧰⚙️ RED, WHITE & BOOST! 🇬🇧 |
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15th Apr 2021 9:56pm |
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| doncarloz Member Since: 29 Oct 2017 Location: Styria Posts: 60
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Thanks alot! I guess I'll start soundproofing then😁 ___________________________________
1993 D1 200 Tdi 2015 110 DCPU 2.2 Tdci 2017 RRS 3.0 TDV6 |
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16th Apr 2021 10:25am |
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| landy andy Member Since: 15 Feb 2009 Location: Ware, Herts Posts: 5420 
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Have you got a gap between sub enclosure and the cubby box? |
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16th Apr 2021 12:51pm |
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| doncarloz Member Since: 29 Oct 2017 Location: Styria Posts: 60
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Good point there. Thanks! I have taken those wooden blocks off quite same time ago when I installed a cubbybox riser. ___________________________________
1993 D1 200 Tdi 2015 110 DCPU 2.2 Tdci 2017 RRS 3.0 TDV6 |
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16th Apr 2021 8:57pm |
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| landy andy Member Since: 15 Feb 2009 Location: Ware, Herts Posts: 5420
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I’ve packed mine so I have a gap between the two and am happy with the results
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17th Apr 2021 8:48am |
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| Bingo Member Since: 27 May 2020 Location: Moscow Posts: 84  
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Hello, friends!
The other day I connected the radio and was faced with the fact that there are three wires in the bundle of wires that go to the radio, the purpose of which I do not know. It is clear to me that there are three power wires:"+", "+Acc" and" -", as well as 8 wires for the speakers. What are 3 more wires for?  Click image to enlarge Thanks! “A word of command has made these silent figures our enemies; a word of command might transform them into our friends. At some table a document is signed by some persons whom none of us knows, and then for years together that very crime on which formerly the world’s condemnation and severest penalty fall, becomes our highest aim.” — Erich Maria Remarque |
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12th Aug 2021 2:13pm |
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| ngins Member Since: 15 Jan 2017 Location: Down South Posts: 69 
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this thread will sort you out I think ....:
https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic6222....io+diagram Off the top of my head, one is for the mic (pr maybe that was separate), one for the permanent live for the memory/settings on the stereo and one for the trigger for the electric aerial that no-one has but I think that's also the amp trigger! I might be wrong as its a bit of a distant memory now... this (scroll down on the page) is quite handy for the ISO colour codes for the wires too: https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questi...olor-codes |
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12th Aug 2021 2:20pm |
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