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blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 16809

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
I like the way the words "SCREW UP" are embossed on the filler cap! Ironic!
Post #836944 13th Jun 2020 8:10am
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Supacat



Member Since: 16 Oct 2012
Location: West Yorkshire
Posts: 11018

United Kingdom 2013 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 XS DCPU Keswick Green
That's all I'm going to see every time I open that flap now... 🙈
Post #837066 14th Jun 2020 4:47am
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X4SKP



Member Since: 29 Nov 2013
Location: Berkshire
Posts: 2284

United Kingdom 2010 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 SW Stornoway Grey
macfrank wrote:
Quote:
Going one stage further the whole floor panel could come out and be fixed back in as a deck/hatch arrangement.

Here's a swiss guy's how-to page:
https://translate.google.com/translate?hl=...Boden.html


Love it... Cool

Providing a sealed floor is possible between 'service use' this is excellent, I too looked at all those rivets around the
perimeter and half contemplated the same, it appears, near enough, it's always the case that some land rover owner
has gone the extra mile to find a work around when things just aren't right. This character trait is not exclusive to land rover but i'd care to bet 'we' are right up there in our willingness to give it a go, even if the failures are chalked up as 'work in progress' more often than not a highly impressive improvement on a 'that i'll do' standard arrangement results...

I solute the DIY Engineers Thumbs Up SKIP
https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic83242.html


Last edited by X4SKP on 17th Jun 2020 4:41pm. Edited 2 times in total
Post #837126 14th Jun 2020 1:20pm
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Pacha



Member Since: 23 Feb 2020
Location: North Yorkshire
Posts: 771

United Kingdom 2008 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 HT Stornoway Grey
Ok, today was the dreaded day......!

I had already decided to go down the YRM replacement alloy tank guard route.

Main reasons were that once try old one is out it's a very simple install compared to the original.

Had no real issues unbolting the old cradle - had an axle stand and wood block to support the tank as it was lowered.

I decided to cut the corners off the old guard with a cutting disc - this really did make removal very easy, but obviously a bit terminal unless you are going to do the mods. shown earlier in the thread.

Once off, the tank was a few inches lower and I managed to get in from the O?S wheel arch and please the clip on the old manky breather pipe. New one slid in easy-peasy and a stainless jubilee clip was used to hold it in place. Did a bit of Dinitrol RC900 to the places that were previously hard to get to - will use the Flexi lance to Dintrol ML and underbody wax tomorrow after the RC900 has cured.

Fitting the YRM guard was pretty simple and love the look and protection.

Old guard - corners cut.


Click image to enlarge


YRM Guard.


Click image to enlarge


Comparison.


Click image to enlarge


New pipes!


Click image to enlarge
 Rgds.

Chris
Post #837615 16th Jun 2020 7:09pm
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Supacat



Member Since: 16 Oct 2012
Location: West Yorkshire
Posts: 11018

United Kingdom 2013 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 XS DCPU Keswick Green
What have you done with the vent pipe?
Post #837703 17th Jun 2020 5:45am
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Pacha



Member Since: 23 Feb 2020
Location: North Yorkshire
Posts: 771

United Kingdom 2008 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 HT Stornoway Grey
Replaced 'like for like'. Rgds.

Chris
Post #837732 17th Jun 2020 8:41am
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Minch90



Member Since: 15 Sep 2017
Location: Gloucestershire
Posts: 226

United Kingdom 
Pacha

You have shamed me into doing this - likewise been putting it off for ages, but last fill up I had to use the sand of shame as diesel was running freely out the overflow pipe!

Like the idea of replacing the tank guard with some bling, so have ordered the YRM one and feel happier about putting this back in rather than squeezing the old one in (have been known to bounce sockets out of the garage in frustration!!)

Rolling with laughter 2.4TDCI 90 - everyday brilliance
S3 V8 Lightweight - in the garage being ignored #newchassistime
S3 lightweight - 2nd car 24V fire risk with a full tilt and the windscreen down
S1 80" - first car fun - 75mph in neutral downhill once #wobblesallround
Post #837845 17th Jun 2020 4:34pm
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donmacn



Member Since: 06 Nov 2017
Location: Nth Scotland
Posts: 1829

hi folks,
Apologies for the very slight thread hijack - I don't have a Puma, but it's absolutely the same topic.

I now have this tank in my car:

Click image to enlarge


The car is often kept in a "tin" garage which gets pretty hot in direct sunlight. Now I'm getting what looks like diesel escaping from the filler tube, perhaps through the cap. It's hard to photo but you can see evidence of it on the galved rear capping, and on the wheel arch:


Click image to enlarge


The tank has this breather arrangement in the n/s or passenger wheel arch:


Click image to enlarge


So three specific questions;
1) Is it likely that the breather is blocked and causing the tank to pressurise in the heat?
2) Looks like it's about £65 - which seems a lot for what it is - any options?
3) I replaced the original cap with a locking one, but I don't seem to hear it doing anything (as I used to with the old one) are all the caps vented, or is it possible I have an unvented one by mistake?

Ta Donald

1994 Defender 300Tdi 110 SW - owned since 2002 - 230k miles and going strong
(The 'rolling restoration' or tinkering thread: http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic58538.html )
2000 Range Rover P38 4.0L V8

in the past..
RR classic - fitted with 200Tdi
1984 RR classic - V8 with ZF auto box
1993 Discovery 300Tdi

not to mention the minis and the Type 2 VW camper...
Post #837860 17th Jun 2020 5:44pm
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bear100



Member Since: 22 Mar 2010
Location: South Wales
Posts: 1867

Wales 2010 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Santorini Black
Well i took the plunge and done it this morning Shocked

TBH it was quite enjoyable......i think i was just lucky Very Happy

The clip holding at the tank end i managed to get a long flat head screwdriver in and just gave it a little tap and it popped off!!
It came out quite easy from there, it was quite badly split at the tank end.


Click image to enlarge


i then made up the new section with marine hose off eBay with an ID of 28mm and used stainless jubilee clips, using the old hose as a template but added a bit extra because i wanted to reroute where the filler pipe resides. use the bend in the new tube to your advantage.

The new jubilee at the tank end i tightened about an 1" in front of its new home, i could then use it and lever against the chassis to aid fitting onto the spigot off the tank, this worked really well.

Then simply undo the jubilee and move into its new home over the spigot, the hardest part was tightening it Confused
i used a 7mm socket onto a bit adapter which went onto a flexible extension which went onto a 1/4" extension and ratchet, it was a tight fit with my big hands and holding the torch which i nearly launched on more than one occasion because it kept falling!! lol

But it was all done in less than an hour! cant believe i have put it off for so long Shocked covered in Waxoyl and muck, a couple of cuts and a big smile.



Click image to enlarge



Click image to enlarge
 2016 Range Rover Autobiography 4.4 TDV8
2010 110 XS Utility 2.4TDCI
2010 Range Rover Sport TDV8 (gone)
2007 Discovery HSE TDV6 (gone)
1993 110 csw 200 tdi (gone)
1994 90 HT 300 tdi (gone)
1994 discovery 300tdi (gone)
90 hybrid 3.5 v8 (gone)
Range rover bobtail 3.5 v8 (gone)
Post #839123 23rd Jun 2020 12:20pm
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BruceT



Member Since: 01 Nov 2010
Location: South Africa
Posts: 516

South Africa 
Please can someone help me.

My 2011 Defender 130 has just started leaking near the filler. I have found several different options for replacement pipes. Some with "T" pieces and some without.

Does anyone have a diagram or pictures of the correct pipes for the 2011 130 please. I would like to tackle this on the weekend but want to make sure I have the correct parts first.

Thank you.



Click image to enlarge




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Click image to enlarge
 "Overlanding With Bruce" - Youtube https://www.youtube.com/@OverlandingwithBruce
11MY Defender 130
23MY Defender 110 D300 HSE X-Dynamic

https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCzrHKcjA-LJ470_H4QwPgVA
Post #861493 14th Oct 2020 6:56am
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Minch90



Member Since: 15 Sep 2017
Location: Gloucestershire
Posts: 226

United Kingdom 
OMG who designs this crap.

Anyway the fuel pipe has been replaced, took all day to get the tank out and much crowbar action. I went the cut the cradle off, replace with YRM tank guard route. Only problem is now the tank moves around - ie it is not held in place by the YRM guard. I notice one poster put some neoprene between their modified guard and the tank to stop this, do I need to do this too?

Honestly this pipe replacement is the biggest PITA, next time someone else is doing it. 2.4TDCI 90 - everyday brilliance
S3 V8 Lightweight - in the garage being ignored #newchassistime
S3 lightweight - 2nd car 24V fire risk with a full tilt and the windscreen down
S1 80" - first car fun - 75mph in neutral downhill once #wobblesallround
Post #880846 25th Jan 2021 6:31pm
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Timcat



Member Since: 20 Jul 2016
Location: Malawi at the moment
Posts: 1003

United Kingdom 2012 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 SW Indus Silver
donmacn wrote:
hi folks,
Apologies for the very slight thread hijack - I don't have a Puma, but it's absolutely the same topic.

I now have this tank in my car:

Click image to enlarge


The car is often kept in a "tin" garage which gets pretty hot in direct sunlight. Now I'm getting what looks like diesel escaping from the filler tube, perhaps through the cap. It's hard to photo but you can see evidence of it on the galved rear capping, and on the wheel arch:


Click image to enlarge


The tank has this breather arrangement in the n/s or passenger wheel arch:


Click image to enlarge


So three specific questions;
1) Is it likely that the breather is blocked and causing the tank to pressurise in the heat?
2) Looks like it's about £65 - which seems a lot for what it is - any options?
3) I replaced the original cap with a locking one, but I don't seem to hear it doing anything (as I used to with the old one) are all the caps vented, or is it possible I have an unvented one by mistake?

Ta


Does it pressurise? Can you hear a whoosh of air it you undo the filler cap?
Post #909902 28th Jun 2021 10:28pm
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clifflandy



Member Since: 13 Mar 2014
Location: Lichfield
Posts: 107

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 HT Zambezi Silver
Has anyone managed to change the breather pipe on a 90 without dropping the tank? Or is it only possible on the 110/130 which have a little more gap between the chassis and tank?
Post #927804 30th Oct 2021 12:05pm
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Bradders130



Member Since: 27 Nov 2021
Location: Southampton
Posts: 74

United Kingdom 2012 Defender 130 Puma 2.2 HCPU Indus Silver
I’ve got a 130, but have had the same problem as everyone else in this 6 year long thread - phew, it takes some reading, but what great advice. Thanks to all for that.
I was reading through the Haynes manual to get a bit of a leg up for dropping my tank out and it mentioned in there that on a 90 it was not possible to remove it from underneath despite LR saying to the contrary, and that in order to get it out, the body had to be removed. This seems a bit drastic relatively speaking. Anyway, I think someone managed it earlier in this thread a couple of years ago, so it might be worth having a bit of a recap through the previous replies to see how it panned out.
Post #931779 30th Nov 2021 12:36am
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Race.it



Member Since: 27 Aug 2019
Location: Algeciras
Posts: 739

Spain 2010 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SW Alaska White
Juice motors is doing a conversion on a 90 in his latest vid he took the 90 tank out from below with body in place Searching for my first Defender...and started just as Covid hit, so talk about timing.

5 months after starting the search I found it, and here is the details
Post #931791 30th Nov 2021 7:28am
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