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Grenadier



Member Since: 23 Jul 2014
Location: The foot of Mont Blanc...
Posts: 5765

France 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Corris Grey
Starter Motor - Photo and question
Some of you may be aware of my on-going starter problems. If not, a description can be found here:

https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic76268.html

Decided to dive under the DC today to see what’s what with the starter, which I feel is the culprit. I noticed that there is a clear, 2mm gap between the ‘head’ or drive-end bracket of the starter motor and it’s mounting point, as per the photo. I gave up long ago assuming something like this would be wrong, as I have learnt what peculiar beasts Defenders are. However, I watched a video where a chap removed his starter from his 2.4 Tdci and before he started it was flush. Can anyone confirm what the case should be? Is this badly fitted? Is this an incorrect starter? It seems odd to me that it’s not flush as surely that adversely affects the drive pinion’s connection to the engine’s pinion?

On a wider note, the starter not working a new battery draining in 48hrs, there seems to be a fair amount of corrosion around the solenoid. Could this be draining the battery?

Hhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhelp!! Big Cry


Click image to enlarge
 Monsieur Le Grenadier

I've not been everywhere, but it's on my list.....

2011 Puma 110DC - Corris Grey
Post #877975 12th Jan 2021 3:21pm
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landy andy



Member Since: 15 Feb 2009
Location: Ware, Herts
Posts: 5417

2006 Defender 110 Td5 USW Zermatt Silver
I don’t think there should be any gap there, so something is wrong.
Post #877986 12th Jan 2021 4:16pm
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Grenadier



Member Since: 23 Jul 2014
Location: The foot of Mont Blanc...
Posts: 5765

France 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Corris Grey
Doesn’t look right, does it? As it happens I have finally resolved the non-starting problem, it was nothing more complicated than a 5€ battery swap in the fob. The old battery was affecting the passive immobiliser, hence turning over but not starting. With the new battery it starts like a dream now, but this gap is still curious. Monsieur Le Grenadier

I've not been everywhere, but it's on my list.....

2011 Puma 110DC - Corris Grey
Post #877992 12th Jan 2021 4:31pm
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rallysteve



Member Since: 10 Feb 2014
Location: Cumbria
Posts: 2198

United Kingdom 2002 Defender 110 Td5 DCPU Keswick Green
Have you ever had the starter off/replaced? Almost looks as though it has been replaced with a locating dowel still in the housing and one on the starter meaning that it couldnt sit flush.

Other than that it must be the bolts are loose.

Might be wrong as to which bit exactly the gap is showing in though!


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Post #877997 12th Jan 2021 4:42pm
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swt



Member Since: 24 Aug 2018
Location: Cumbria
Posts: 149

United Kingdom 2008 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Stornoway Grey
I changed mine a couple of years ago and it definitely didn't have a gap like that on the factory fit starter, or after the replacement was fitted. Given where it engages, you certainly wouldn't want an opening.

Just to check, and excuse what may be a really silly question, but is it definitely a gap and not just a recess filled with dirt or oil? The gap looks too even to be the result of one dodgy or loose bolt. I have a vague memory that the casing on one of mine (I forget whether it was the old or the new) turned inwards in the same way, leaving a channel at the mating point. It's a bit dark and wet to have a look at present, though.
Post #878041 12th Jan 2021 7:06pm
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discomog



Member Since: 09 May 2015
Location: Notts/Lincs Border
Posts: 2495

United Kingdom 2015 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 XS CSW Santorini Black
Normally there is an annular register on the starter motor which locates the starter into the bell housing. This is to ensure correct alignment of the starter pinion to the flywheel ring gear. The starter motor should also abut against the bell housing to ensure that the starter pinion correctly meshes with the ring gear, if there is a gap then you are relying on the tightening of the bolts to axially position the starter.

It may be worthwhile removing the starter, inspecting the flanges and refitting ensuring that the starter abuts against the bell housing prior to fitting the bolts. You can also look at the wear patterns on the pinion and ring gear at the same time.

Not easy to explain but hope it makes sense. Defender 90XS SW
Mini Countryman Cooper S
Morgan Plus 8
Post #878049 12th Jan 2021 7:13pm
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Grenadier



Member Since: 23 Jul 2014
Location: The foot of Mont Blanc...
Posts: 5765

France 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Corris Grey
Thanks all for answers. Wasn’t easy working today, -7c and snowing heavily. I’ve looked on line and the Britpart version (I have no actual idea of the make of mine) does seem to have a rubber grommet around the bracket, which may be what mine has. It will be filled with crud. I’ll give it a dig out and see what is in there. But it is starting perfectly normally. Indeed strongly.



Click image to enlarge
 Monsieur Le Grenadier

I've not been everywhere, but it's on my list.....

2011 Puma 110DC - Corris Grey
Post #878087 12th Jan 2021 10:40pm
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X4SKP



Member Since: 29 Nov 2013
Location: Berkshire
Posts: 2287

United Kingdom 2010 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 SW Stornoway Grey
Hello Grenadier

This is a close up of my replacement Starter Motor (also for a 2.4 MY2011).... from Land Rover


Click image to enlarge


A couple of observations:

1. If you DIY this it is possible but you'll become convinced that LR started with the Starter Motor and built the rest
of the vehicle around it... a common observation when working it out as you go with self (harm) maintenance, but the whole job is in an area that is very tight / unseen / working blind and often at arms reach... but with care + time it's achievable, I dare say that some will find it easier than others.

2 Look again at your starting position, in particular the tightness of the bosses (to the left of the mating / sealing gasket)
these come into close contact / alignment with the bell housing, it is possible yours is ok. From memory the Starter Motor locates 'positively' and 'nestles' into position nicely.

3 Going back to DIY if you do this yourself... as it may well feel like a semi-major effort consider carefully what you bolt on,
you really don't want to do this too often. I've come to the view that saving so much but maintaining my own vehicle I tend to avoid any factored part containing either metal, rubber or any wiring Shocked

Good Luck Thumbs Up SKIP
https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic83242.html
Post #878202 13th Jan 2021 1:51pm
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