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custom90



Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 19533

United Kingdom 
👍🏻 Cool Diesels Lives Matter. ⛽️🛢️👨‍🔧🧰⚙️
Red, White & Boost! 🇬🇧
Post #863864 27th Oct 2020 5:32pm
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williamthedog



Member Since: 29 Dec 2012
Location: south wales
Posts: 3441

2011 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 PU Tamar Blue
blackwolf wrote:
custom90steve wrote:
Does the above fit Puma UJ’s? That’d be my concern? The UJ’s are a pain with the nipple orientation the way they are being a narrow access.
Lost count of how many times with my old one that it wouldn’t lock on. Just makes the job more tedious and even more of a mess.


It fits mine (the blue ones)! Mr. Green


Click image to enlarge


Snap , mine too, greasing propshafts have never been so easy.
😁😁😁👍
Post #863869 27th Oct 2020 6:26pm
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Race.it



Member Since: 27 Aug 2019
Location: Algeciras
Posts: 741

Spain 2010 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SW Alaska White
Si my normal grease gun is good I just need to change the prop shaft.

I love the man maths on this site 😂 Searching for my first Defender...and started just as Covid hit, so talk about timing.

5 months after starting the search I found it, and here is the details
Post #863878 27th Oct 2020 7:12pm
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williamthedog



Member Since: 29 Dec 2012
Location: south wales
Posts: 3441

2011 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 PU Tamar Blue
Being the uj's on mine were toasted, ok i have rebuilt it since for a spare fitting a double cardan propshaft on a puma also irons out a lot of vibration they're known for.
Post #863887 27th Oct 2020 7:55pm
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Ianh



Member Since: 17 Sep 2018
Location: Essex
Posts: 1736

United Kingdom 
I’ve read many great reports on the g coupler, not only its ability to easily lock onto the nipple, but how it also easily decouples. I have noticed it is longer than a standard coupler, but from what I’ve read can still be used effectively on standard defender props, or more advanced ones such as those from Glyn Lewis.

My Alemite 500e (flexi hose) came with a good standard coupler which is reasonably compact. I have not had issues coupling if I hold the coupler on straight while I create some initial grease pressure by depressing the gun leaver. Once locked on I have not had issues with grease escaping via the nipple as I gently pump. Decoupling is achieved by pulling back the outer sleeve and gently rotating the coupler while twisting it at a slight angle.Again no issues.

I did contemplate getting a G coupler day one, but thought I would hold off until I tried the one that came with the Alemite.As I’ve had no issues I’ve not as yet found the need for the G coupler.
However i’m still keen on getting one ( you can never have too many tools) , and I think it is the easiest to use, most effective and reliable coupler available as long as there is sufficient room to accommodate its slightly longer length. So if a group buy on the G coupler comes about I’m certainly in.

One thing to take account of, if you already have a grease gun and your issue is locking on, grease escaping, or decoupling issues then just the G coupler or a better quality standard coupler may be the cheapest option. If it’s air locks, lack of pressure or you are looking to buy a first grease gun then investing in a good gun that will last generations is money well spent.
Post #863894 27th Oct 2020 8:25pm
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L110CDL



Member Since: 31 Oct 2015
Location: Devon
Posts: 10476

England 
I use this Sealey cartridge gun and i put the flexible hose on for better access, does the Tdi rear prop shaft with no problems and the front prop is a Td5 one and has no problems with that either with three nipples on each prop shaft Very Happy




Click image to enlarge


Thumbs Up 1996 Golf Blue 300Tdi 110 Pick up. Keeper.


Clayton.
Post #863935 27th Oct 2020 10:37pm
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custom90



Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 19533

United Kingdom 
In the end I bought an Allemite 500-E, excellent service from Allube that Ianh suggested. (Thank you Ianh). Thumbs Up
Looks a really nice bit of kit, I haven’t used it yet and bought a few “extras” from the USA as well for it.

I decided to swap over to the Morris K48 grease too, which I have on order.
Once I have everything, no doubt I’ll post up again.

Thumbs Up Diesels Lives Matter. ⛽️🛢️👨‍🔧🧰⚙️
Red, White & Boost! 🇬🇧
Post #891930 16th Mar 2021 8:12pm
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custom90



Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 19533

United Kingdom 
Little update on this on my above post, I got the above grease gun. The Morris K48 grease and some other goodies from the States.

The grease seems a bit more viscous than I was using before, no bad thing as it should last longer in better condition especially with the weather bashing the UJ’s get.
I got a narrow tip lock and lube connector for it from the States and a lock and lube 90 degree adaptor I found perfect for the grease nipple for the clutch pedal.
I also got some lock and lube grease gun covers too, especially for the tip to stop it getting dirty and leaking liquid, I keep it in a plastic bag thought anyway.

Works really well, both the grease gun and coupler as I had the pleasure (misfortune? Whistle ) of doing my latest greasing round yesterday, and it rained halfway though as well as sods law dictates but done anyway in the end.

I jack up one wheel and secure all the rest with concrete blocks so you can manipulate the UJ yolk to be most open to access the nipple.
The lock and lube things works well as it locks on, then you do the greasing and then unlock it off.
None of that business of finding it difficult to lock on and it popping off or grease goes out the side.
The likelyhood of grease going out the side is much much much reduced as well.
No bashed hands pulling and twisting the coupler to get it off either, just a basic wipe of the nipple before coupling and good to go.
Slider nipples are even easier, wipe, lock on, grease, unlock, done!

When I first installed the grease cartridge I followed the instructions and all went well, the cartridge loading method and action is excellent and the air bleed valve worked superbly.

Only downside is they are not cheap, but you get what you pay for and I am pleased with it and makes it a better and easier job than before and with a lot less mess as well.

The Allemite 500E is higher pressure than my last one too, on the UJ greasing it was a lot more effective at the “pop” when pushing the old grease out which it did very well indeed and despite limited room I didn’t have much problem using the lever action either.

The Morris K48 grease seems good too, I will stick to using that from now on as well.


Many thanks to those who recommend the Allemite, it is very good indeed. Thumbs Up Diesels Lives Matter. ⛽️🛢️👨‍🔧🧰⚙️
Red, White & Boost! 🇬🇧
Post #910730 4th Jul 2021 5:46pm
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Angus_Beef



Member Since: 30 Apr 2015
Location: Oslo
Posts: 434

Norway 2015 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 SW Corris Grey
There is a grease nipple on the clutch pedal?
Can someone share its location? Roaming around 🇳🇴🇨🇭
Post #910733 4th Jul 2021 6:13pm
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Dinnu



Member Since: 24 Dec 2019
Location: Lija
Posts: 3188

Malta 2012 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 CSW Santorini Black
Never heard of or saw a grease nipple on a clutch pedal, so must be a diy job.
Not a bad idea as they tend to squeak... but more at the top joint, that pushes on the master pushrod than the pivot point. The push rod joint is easily accessible though. You do not want to put too much grease that makes a mess on the footwell. 1988 90 Hard Top, 19J Diesel Turbo, Shire Blue - Restoration ongoing
2012 90 CSW, 2.2TDCI, Santorini Black
Post #910736 4th Jul 2021 6:37pm
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custom90



Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 19533

United Kingdom 
RHS of the clutch pedal box there is a threaded hole, you can fit a grease nipple into it which is what I did. And yes with most things obviously don’t over grease about three levers I think I did.

If I remember rightly I used the spare grease nipple off of my old failed UJ’s when I took them out and that was an exact fit. Or I had a spare new around.
Either way the grease nipples on the UJ’s or slider fits, sadly I can’t remember what I did now or the exact size.
It definitely is genuine sized nipples that fit though, if you have a few lying around try it and see.
The threads are already there as well.

I think, but could be wrong that Blackwolf on here told me about it but was a few years ago.

Costs peanuts to do and makes an easy job, that’s why I got a 90 degree adaptor to make that one easier to do.
Thumbs Up Diesels Lives Matter. ⛽️🛢️👨‍🔧🧰⚙️
Red, White & Boost! 🇬🇧
Post #910739 4th Jul 2021 7:05pm
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blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 16857

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
Some clutch pedal pivot pins have the threaded hole into which a grease nipple can be fitted, but many do not. There doesn't seem to be any pattern or method in this, it is just luck of the draw.

If you have the threaded hole and fit a nipple, don't over-grease since any excess will end up either on your shoe or the floor. It does help reduce the squeaky clutch effect though.
Post #910741 4th Jul 2021 7:20pm
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Oldowner



Member Since: 26 Dec 2018
Location: South west
Posts: 601

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 HT Aintree Green
M6 45 degree grease nipple is the best option for the clutch pivot
Post #910749 4th Jul 2021 8:00pm
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Ianh



Member Since: 17 Sep 2018
Location: Essex
Posts: 1736

United Kingdom 
Post #910752 4th Jul 2021 8:09pm
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Pacha



Member Since: 23 Feb 2020
Location: North Yorkshire
Posts: 771

United Kingdom 2008 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 HT Stornoway Grey
^^^^^

Thanks Ian! Rgds.

Chris
Post #910756 4th Jul 2021 8:40pm
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