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newton-tony



Member Since: 18 Sep 2016
Location: Wiltshire
Posts: 77

United Kingdom 2005 Defender 90 2.5 TD SW Rimini Red
Focal ES100K speaker fitting clarification

I am sure asked and answered before, but I can't find searching on the forum...

I have a Pioneer z7100 flip out head unit, that is perfect for me.

Just purchased some Focal ES100K speakers so need to fit. Will add sub etc later.

QUESTIONS:

Do I need to connect the 2 crossover boxes to the wiring that plugs into to the back of the head unit, or is there somewhere better/more sensible to connect the left and right crossover inputs to? .

The Focal speakers have their own wires to connect to the crossover boxes. Do I just tape up the wires I removed from the standard Puma speakers?

If these are dumb questions, I apologise (and blame lock down!)

Cheers all! Thumbs Up

Post #832550 22nd May 2020 10:55am
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The Zee



Member Since: 26 May 2019
Location: Salisbury
Posts: 61

United Kingdom 2014 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 USW Indus Silver


Click image to enlarge


The FrL/FrR output refer to the speaker outputs from the headunit, if you have fitted better speaker cable from the headunit to your current speakers use that, otherwise use what is fitted, the crossover is best suited as close to the speakers as possible.

I hope the diagram above is clear (note power, and other connections + any subs/amps/rear speakers omitted for clarity) Zaid-M
www.DefencePhotos.com
2014 Defender 110 Utility, 2.2 Puma, Indus Silver
Not just transport more like a religion

Post #832657 22nd May 2020 5:29pm
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cold



Member Since: 15 Dec 2018
Location: Yorkshire
Posts: 56


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`Beat me to it, but posting sketch anyway - what he said Rolling with laughter [/img]

Post #832658 22nd May 2020 5:33pm
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The Zee



Member Since: 26 May 2019
Location: Salisbury
Posts: 61

United Kingdom 2014 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 USW Indus Silver

Sorry - Do like the Headunit sketch - better than mine! Smile Zaid-M
www.DefencePhotos.com
2014 Defender 110 Utility, 2.2 Puma, Indus Silver
Not just transport more like a religion

Post #832660 22nd May 2020 5:36pm
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CharlieDonuts



Member Since: 16 Jun 2019
Location: Illiers Combray
Posts: 105

France 2008 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 SW Galway Green

I just did mine last week.

I took out the old tweeters put in the new ones - the new wires just drop down - the old wires I taped inside the dash.

I took out the old mid speakers (4 inch speakers below dash) pulled the tweeter wires through the hole these new tweeter wires go to the tweeter outputs of the cross over.

The old wires that went to the old mid speakers I cut the spade connectors off - I used these as the input from the head unit to the cross over.

The new mids I had to crimp spade connectors (two different sizes) to a new piece of speaker wire - spade connectors go to new speakers - the other end of the speaker wire goes to the mid speaker output of the cross over

Currently I have just twisted wires going into the cross overs. When the sub goes in I will remake these connections with crimped on c shaped connectors.

Cross overs are stuck inside the dash with double sided adhesive foam pads. You need to clean inside the dash to get them to stick properly.

It works. Now I am just trying to figure out the best way to mount the sub below the cubby box.


Last edited by CharlieDonuts on 22nd May 2020 7:18pm. Edited 2 times in total

Post #832678 22nd May 2020 6:54pm
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newton-tony



Member Since: 18 Sep 2016
Location: Wiltshire
Posts: 77

United Kingdom 2005 Defender 90 2.5 TD SW Rimini Red

Brilliant - many thanks all.

Will get sorted tomorrow.

Post #832681 22nd May 2020 7:13pm
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cold



Member Since: 15 Dec 2018
Location: Yorkshire
Posts: 56


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Charlie - I used the mudstuff under cubby- removed the ends and added acoustic carpet - sounds great

Post #832686 22nd May 2020 7:50pm
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newton-tony



Member Since: 18 Sep 2016
Location: Wiltshire
Posts: 77

United Kingdom 2005 Defender 90 2.5 TD SW Rimini Red

CharlieDonuts wrote:
I just did mine last week.

I took out the old tweeters put in the new ones - the new wires just drop down - the old wires I taped inside the dash.

I took out the old mid speakers (4 inch speakers below dash) pulled the tweeter wires through the hole these new tweeter wires go to the tweeter outputs of the cross over.

The old wires that went to the old mid speakers I cut the spade connectors off - I used these as the input from the head unit to the cross over.

The new mids I had to crimp spade connectors (two different sizes) to a new piece of speaker wire - spade connectors go to new speakers - the other end of the speaker wire goes to the mid speaker output of the cross over

Currently I have just twisted wires going into the cross overs. When the sub goes in I will remake these connections with crimped on c shaped connectors.

Cross overs are stuck inside the dash with double sided adhesive foam pads. You need to clean inside the dash to get them to stick properly.

It works. Now I am just trying to figure out the best way to mount the sub below the cubby box.


So did you use the speaker wires that initially fed the 4 inch mids as the feed to the crossover box?

I had initially thought that is what I needed to do, then convinced myself it wasn't!

Post #832689 22nd May 2020 7:59pm
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CharlieDonuts



Member Since: 16 Jun 2019
Location: Illiers Combray
Posts: 105

France 2008 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 SW Galway Green

Newton Tony. Yes I took the wires the went from the head unit to the old mid speakers and used those as the input to the cross over. My understanding is that this is a high level output. It works. I don''t know if this is the best way but it works.

Now the 2:1 Sub should provide a better more amplified input to the cross overs but I haven't figured this bit out yet. It says plug and play on the box. So I'll plug it and play and let you know.

Post #832690 22nd May 2020 8:11pm
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CharlieDonuts



Member Since: 16 Jun 2019
Location: Illiers Combray
Posts: 105

France 2008 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 SW Galway Green

Cold.

The mud locker is in the post.

Do you have to drill it to bolt the sub to it?

Did you put any insulation between the mud locker box and the isolation plate to stop the floor vibrating ?

Did you do anything to re-enforce the inspection plate to stop the floor vibrating ?

Really I'd like the air to move and not the floor.

Post #832691 22nd May 2020 8:15pm
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The Zee



Member Since: 26 May 2019
Location: Salisbury
Posts: 61

United Kingdom 2014 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 USW Indus Silver

"So did you use the speaker wires that initially fed the 4 inch mids as the feed to the crossover box?
I had initially thought that is what I needed to do, then convinced myself it wasn't!"

Hi newton-tony - Your rioght first time - Use the 4" Feeds

Your looking at it from the speaker point of view - your best option is to look at the Headunit end - and find/trace the Front L&R outputs - they probably go to both the tweater and the 4" mid - so you could take either. Best option is see which has the thicker conductor and use that pair (prob 4" Mids) and feed these into the crossover. (If your really stuck PM me) Zaid-M
www.DefencePhotos.com
2014 Defender 110 Utility, 2.2 Puma, Indus Silver
Not just transport more like a religion

Post #832692 22nd May 2020 8:17pm
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The Zee



Member Since: 26 May 2019
Location: Salisbury
Posts: 61

United Kingdom 2014 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 USW Indus Silver

CharlieDonuts wrote:
Newton Tony. Yes I took the wires the went from the head unit to the old mid speakers and used those as the input to the cross over. My understanding is that this is a high level output. It works. I don''t know if this is the best way but it works.

Now the 2:1 Sub should provide a better more amplified input to the cross overs but I haven't figured this bit out yet. It says plug and play on the box. So I'll plug it and play and let you know.


Yes they are High Level outputs - to drive speakers
Low level out puts - via RCA/coax cables drive Amps

2.1 sub box connection is easy - depending on how many RCA Pairs there are on your headunit (HU), if it's just a Sub RCA pair (Sub freq only) output then connect the Sub , and the Speaker stay on the HU

If theres a Front out then this will be full range and the crossover in the 2.1 box will split the Front L&R ouputs and feed the Sub via the inbuilt Amp

If theres a Front & Sub output and your 2.1 system has the 2 pairs of connector then feed both, and use the headunit to set the crossover point. - Most flexible the onboard amp will sort the Front L&R output Zaid-M
www.DefencePhotos.com
2014 Defender 110 Utility, 2.2 Puma, Indus Silver
Not just transport more like a religion

Post #832693 22nd May 2020 8:28pm
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cold



Member Since: 15 Dec 2018
Location: Yorkshire
Posts: 56

CharlieDonuts wrote:
Cold.

The mud locker is in the post.

Do you have to drill it to bolt the sub to it?

Did you put any insulation between the mud locker box and the isolation plate to stop the floor vibrating ?

Did you do anything to re-enforce the inspection plate to stop the floor vibrating ?

Really I'd like the air to move and not the floor.


Mine is the Focal iBus- time again I probably would have gone with the 2.1 but I have since bought 2 x amps to power front and back

Drilling:
Initially I used the velcro pad that came with the sub to fix it to the mudstuff under cubby - later I did drill it and used the rubber feet that came with it - I found the velcro solution lacking depth, the sound with the rubber feet significantly better

Insulation
My cubby had carpet underneath it so didn't add any insulation - no distortion and no rattling!

Post #832694 22nd May 2020 8:31pm
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newton-tony



Member Since: 18 Sep 2016
Location: Wiltshire
Posts: 77

United Kingdom 2005 Defender 90 2.5 TD SW Rimini Red

All done - many thanks all for the guidance Thumbs Up

Final question: to find the optimum sound settings is this purely trial and error, based on individual preference/hearing (the sliders in the crossover boxes)?



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Post #833431 26th May 2020 11:42am
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CharlieDonuts



Member Since: 16 Jun 2019
Location: Illiers Combray
Posts: 105

France 2008 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 SW Galway Green

Newton Tony well done mate !

I'm waiting to put the sub woofer in before I thought about audio balance. However I was going to start with adjustments on the head unit. Coz thats easy.

I have a question also.

Whilst I figure out my sub woofer audio wiring. Can I power the sub woofer from my battery booster? Just for long enough to make sure I have connected anything together in the right way. My thinking is that its just another battery. However I don't want to make an expensive mistake

The reason being is that I want to do the wiring into the car battery last as this has to be a very clean and tidy job and I need to have a think about the best way to do it. I am thinking about fitting a secondary fuse box. Then I can install 12 V for charging points and a 12v socket to run accessories such as an air compressor.

innit.

Post #833460 26th May 2020 2:44pm
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