 | Home > Maintenance & Modifications > Filling in rivet holes |
 
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| tookaphotoof Member Since: 18 Mar 2013 Location: dordrecht Posts: 1279   
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 Click image to enlarge |
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1st Apr 2020 9:04am |
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| Roger Member Since: 26 Apr 2018 Location: Hampshire Posts: 71  
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The other option for fixing holes without a welder is to braze them. The rods are really cheap, readily available and while I must confess to having no experience of brazing, it does look like a relatively simple option.
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1st Apr 2020 7:46pm |
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| ickle Member Since: 22 Jul 2010 Location: South Vendee Posts: 1727  
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On aluminium alloy?
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1st Apr 2020 8:21pm |
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| VVS210 Member Since: 12 Nov 2016 Location: Hampshire Posts: 953
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Might be for a Puma but for pre-Puma I thought it was an alloy skin on a steel frame? - am sure that the bonnet on my DCPU had 'ally worm' on it.
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1st Apr 2020 9:44pm |
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| LandRoverAnorak Member Since: 17 Jul 2011 Location: Surrey Posts: 11240 
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Only on Puma models. Not on Charcoal's TD5 or anything earlier. Darren
110 USW BUILD THREAD - EXPEDITION TRAILER - 200tdi 90 BUILD THREAD - SANKEY TRAILER - IG@landroveranorak "You came in that thing? You're braver than I thought!" - Princess Leia |
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1st Apr 2020 9:45pm |
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| ickle Member Since: 22 Jul 2010 Location: South Vendee Posts: 1727
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I thought that the bonnet on my 100" tdi bitsa was alloy skinned on a steel frame, but it could have come off any age truck - it was in sand glow and fairly beaten up so I did wonder???
Going back a bit more on topic, if you try brazing the middle of a steel panel you'd end up with massive heat distortion. Paint the chequer plate!!!! Keith |
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2nd Apr 2020 7:00pm |
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| charcoal Member Since: 28 Jul 2014 Location: Hampshire Posts: 941 
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On the bonnet I just bought it has some surface rust on the frame so that is definitely steel, dont know about the skin though but there is no rust on the skin. I've never brazed before so not sure its a good option to try, if it'll get heat distortion from brazing it'll probably be the same tig welding then? 1999 Land Rover Defender 110 td5 station wagon
1998 Land Rover Defender 110 County Station Wagon ~ Sold 1995 Land Rover Defender 110 V8 Station Wagon ~ Sold 
1985 Land Rover 110 ex mod project Tithonus ~ Sold |
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2nd Apr 2020 7:06pm |
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| VVS210 Member Since: 12 Nov 2016 Location: Hampshire Posts: 953
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The skin will be alloy, if in doubt try it with a magnet!
If it were me I'd seriously consider keeping the chequer plate as it will help with the structural integrity & give you a suitable surface to rest the wheel on when you lift it on & off the bonnet! My brother has a bonnet spare mounting on his & getting the wheel on & off is such a pain that it has lived in the back most of the 29 years he's had the Ninety! |
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2nd Apr 2020 7:23pm |
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| charcoal Member Since: 28 Jul 2014 Location: Hampshire Posts: 941
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Ill have to see when it arrives, from the pictures the chequer plate looks too skanky to keep and replacing it might mean more holes for a new piece. The bonnet would be fine without the chequer plate as its especially reinforced to take a wheel. 1999 Land Rover Defender 110 td5 station wagon
1998 Land Rover Defender 110 County Station Wagon ~ Sold 1995 Land Rover Defender 110 V8 Station Wagon ~ Sold
1985 Land Rover 110 ex mod project Tithonus ~ Sold |
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2nd Apr 2020 7:34pm |
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| amschnellsten Member Since: 23 Apr 2020 Location: Nati Posts: 3  
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look for the low heat alloy rods and flux. They braze in very nicely and with very little heat. Its a lot easier and faster than using a tig.
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27th Apr 2020 12:01am |
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| charcoal Member Since: 28 Jul 2014 Location: Hampshire Posts: 941
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I never brazed before though so dont really want to ruin the bonnet. Was thinking of trying with a tig as at least I somewhat know what Im doing. Got the bonnet now though so am looking to get this sorted out sooner rather than later so it can get painted though. 1999 Land Rover Defender 110 td5 station wagon
1998 Land Rover Defender 110 County Station Wagon ~ Sold 1995 Land Rover Defender 110 V8 Station Wagon ~ Sold
1985 Land Rover 110 ex mod project Tithonus ~ Sold |
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27th Apr 2020 1:59am |
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| BuckBlu110 Member Since: 19 Apr 2014 Location: in the pub Posts: 709 
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Is this what you mean amschnellsten?
It looks almost too good to be true. If it works as good as it looks on the videos then I’ve got an 88’ tub that’s got few holes that need this treatment. |
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27th Apr 2020 9:18am |
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| VVS210 Member Since: 12 Nov 2016 Location: Hampshire Posts: 953
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That looks the business, although I'd question the strength of those joints in the thicker pieces as this seems to be a 'hot glue' rather than a true weld where base & filler metals are melted to form the join. Still looks ideal for filling in holes & other non-structural jobs.
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27th Apr 2020 1:16pm |
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| Mo Murphy Member Since: 01 Jun 2008 Location: Letchworth Garden City, Herts Posts: 2076 
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I always put a rivet in an old rivet hole. The rear tub is full of them so they don't look out of place.
Mo The Land Rover 90 - Many are called, few are chosen. |
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27th Apr 2020 5:38pm |
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