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bear100



Member Since: 22 Mar 2010
Location: South Wales
Posts: 1499

Wales 2010 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Santorini Black
Parasitic load I think

So I’ve got a parasitic load!
Both the main battery and the auxiliary battery drained Shocked

I have a yellow and red optima connected to a National Luna split charge with controller.

Both read 11v and dropping, I charged them both last week because it’s been stood still for 3 weeks, disconnected Sunday and today 11v

Going to test for draw but what is the average draw and how is it performed? Doors open etc?

Am I right in saying the solenoid should be disconnected from the auxiliary? There’s nothing connected to the auxiliary just yet (accessories that is). 2016 Range Rover Autobiography 4.4 TDV8
2010 110 XS Utility 2.4TDCI
2010 Range Rover Sport TDV8 (gone)
2007 Discovery HSE TDV6 (gone)
1993 110 csw 200 tdi (gone)
1994 90 HT 300 tdi (gone)
1994 discovery 300tdi
90 hybrid 3.5 v8 (gone)
Range rover bobtail 3.5 v8 (gone)

Post #815076 14th Feb 2020 1:07pm
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Bluest



Member Since: 23 Apr 2016
Location: Lancashire
Posts: 2536

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Java Black

Sounds like something wrong with the split charge. It should separate the batteries at something like 12.5 or so volts. The manual should tell you.

I think the National Luna system has the option for a button to combine the batteries for jump starting. Maybe a fault with that circuit if you have it?

That being said it still doesn't explain why your batteries are drained so low. Have you got any accessories fitted that could be drawing current? 2007 110 TDCi Station Wagon XS

Post #815082 14th Feb 2020 1:58pm
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custom90steve



Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West England
Posts: 17952

United Kingdom 

Best to test most suspicious circuits you think it may be. Often you’ll find the culprit.
I once had a permanently energised relay coil drawing about 120mA at rest that did it.
It was incorrectly wired from previous owner. Diesels Lives Matter

Post #815110 14th Feb 2020 4:46pm
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bear100



Member Since: 22 Mar 2010
Location: South Wales
Posts: 1499

Wales 2010 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Santorini Black

I think i have a parasitic load on the main battery and the aux battery is also getting drained from it and maybe the solenoid is sticking open?

what reading am i looking for in mA?

no accessories fitted at the moment i have got that far yet.

There is a feature on the controller to manually open the solenoid, it self opens after 15 mins i think, i will have too check it shuts down when the engine is turned off Idea 2016 Range Rover Autobiography 4.4 TDV8
2010 110 XS Utility 2.4TDCI
2010 Range Rover Sport TDV8 (gone)
2007 Discovery HSE TDV6 (gone)
1993 110 csw 200 tdi (gone)
1994 90 HT 300 tdi (gone)
1994 discovery 300tdi
90 hybrid 3.5 v8 (gone)
Range rover bobtail 3.5 v8 (gone)

Post #815119 14th Feb 2020 5:38pm
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custom90steve



Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West England
Posts: 17952

United Kingdom 

Sorry I missed your post. Did you get this sorted?

I'd say up to 30mA max would typical load at rest, I think mine was around 21mA which seems to ring a bell.
That is for factory security systems and radio memory etc. Diesels Lives Matter

Post #816780 24th Feb 2020 8:38pm
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bear100



Member Since: 22 Mar 2010
Location: South Wales
Posts: 1499

Wales 2010 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Santorini Black

Hi Steve

Sorry been working away for a bit, I’ve disconnected the main battery from the split charge and at rest I have 26ma which I understand is correct?

What I don't understand is the Nation Luna Solenoid has at rest a draw of 40ma coupled with the controller 20ma. So I have a total of 26+40+20= 86ma
Surely I have missed something here?
I put it all back together and tested the draw with both connected and I measured 89ma which is why my battery is in the red after a week to 10 days, and that’s both battery’s. Shocked Shocked


Click image to enlarge
 2016 Range Rover Autobiography 4.4 TDV8
2010 110 XS Utility 2.4TDCI
2010 Range Rover Sport TDV8 (gone)
2007 Discovery HSE TDV6 (gone)
1993 110 csw 200 tdi (gone)
1994 90 HT 300 tdi (gone)
1994 discovery 300tdi
90 hybrid 3.5 v8 (gone)
Range rover bobtail 3.5 v8 (gone)

Post #818764 8th Mar 2020 11:01am
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custom90steve



Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West England
Posts: 17952

United Kingdom 

Yes, that’s definitely too much current draw at rest.
When I had a load about 130mA on a relay coil in the past the battery would be dead in about 3 days max so the current you describe and time period check out.

It seems in some way you have something energised permanent live that should be ignition on only as I see it.
It definitely seems like you’ve found the culprit. What I would do is study the manuals if you have them or online or ask the manufacturer or both. Diesels Lives Matter

Post #818790 8th Mar 2020 2:47pm
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bear100



Member Since: 22 Mar 2010
Location: South Wales
Posts: 1499

Wales 2010 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Santorini Black

Things have taken a drastic turn for the worst Shocked

So i put the defender back together with just the standard electrics and not the split charge because im pretty sure the solenoid is faulty. i took a reading of 11.6v

Had a day off work today so cleaned the 110 inside and out Very Happy

I started the engine at 2.30 and let it idle for a while and then set off for the 3 mile trip on the school run, sat with the engine running for 20 mins waiting, kids got in and off we went for the 3 mile trip back, just as i set off my daughter said what's that smell? a few mins later a very eggy sulphur smell was present, i thought it was from out side, then took a longer ride home and a zip down the dual carriageway just to give it a blast, but the smell was getting worse, pulled up on the drive checked everything no sign of anything, until i thought what about the battery, i opened the seat box and a waft of sulphur, heat and fizzing noise from battery hit me!
I immediately turned the engine off and grabbed the multi meter and found 13v, it was very hot, i then restarted the engine and found the alternator was charging at 14v.
i immediately disconnected everything and removed the battery where its still fizzing and hot 20mins later on the drive.
What can it be? its a red top Optima which was new (or led to believe its new)
maybe a faulty Battery or ???? 2016 Range Rover Autobiography 4.4 TDV8
2010 110 XS Utility 2.4TDCI
2010 Range Rover Sport TDV8 (gone)
2007 Discovery HSE TDV6 (gone)
1993 110 csw 200 tdi (gone)
1994 90 HT 300 tdi (gone)
1994 discovery 300tdi
90 hybrid 3.5 v8 (gone)
Range rover bobtail 3.5 v8 (gone)

Post #819441 13th Mar 2020 5:06pm
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ZeDefender



Member Since: 15 Sep 2011
Location: Munich
Posts: 4731

Germany 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SW Baltic Blue

Sorry about your problems. It seems the alternator is okay (mine charges at over 14v) and the battery is now fooked, maybe due to a very high load/short on it causing it to overheat when you're driving - it would seem to make sense if there is a parasitic load when you're not...

In any event, a few years back my battery kept draining every week or so until I realised the Scangauge was drawing significant current all the time from the OBD (about 80 mA). Tell someone you love them today because life is short.
But shout it at them in German because life is also terrifying and confusing...

Post #819447 13th Mar 2020 5:25pm
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bear100



Member Since: 22 Mar 2010
Location: South Wales
Posts: 1499

Wales 2010 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Santorini Black

Thanks for the info, it does sound plausible to have a big load or drain while driving, but how would i go about testing this one?

i might buy an oddesy battery but a bit hesitant to put it on until I've sorted the issue Crying or Very sad 2016 Range Rover Autobiography 4.4 TDV8
2010 110 XS Utility 2.4TDCI
2010 Range Rover Sport TDV8 (gone)
2007 Discovery HSE TDV6 (gone)
1993 110 csw 200 tdi (gone)
1994 90 HT 300 tdi (gone)
1994 discovery 300tdi
90 hybrid 3.5 v8 (gone)
Range rover bobtail 3.5 v8 (gone)

Post #819464 13th Mar 2020 7:13pm
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custom90steve



Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West England
Posts: 17952

United Kingdom 

Sounds like a battery issue.
Are these batteries sealed or vented? If the latter then has the vent cap been removed and breather attached?
Standard batteries are vented with a breather to the exterior, the smell you mention is something to be very careful of as it’s explosive in some cases.
The battery should read about 12 - 12.4v at rest what is it now?

Sounds like you have correct alternator charging voltage. Diesels Lives Matter

Post #819466 13th Mar 2020 7:22pm
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bear100



Member Since: 22 Mar 2010
Location: South Wales
Posts: 1499

Wales 2010 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Santorini Black

I think it’s a battery issue just a hunch all has worked fine before I changed it, I changed because the original was loosing charge not bad for 8 years.

The Optimas are sealed units with no vents, I initially thought thought they were solid but just checked, and they full of sulphuric acid hence the smell, I was a bit worried to say the least taking it out but couldn’t leave it in there.
I will check the volts in the morning, Thumbs Up 2016 Range Rover Autobiography 4.4 TDV8
2010 110 XS Utility 2.4TDCI
2010 Range Rover Sport TDV8 (gone)
2007 Discovery HSE TDV6 (gone)
1993 110 csw 200 tdi (gone)
1994 90 HT 300 tdi (gone)
1994 discovery 300tdi
90 hybrid 3.5 v8 (gone)
Range rover bobtail 3.5 v8 (gone)

Post #819473 13th Mar 2020 8:02pm
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custom90steve



Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West England
Posts: 17952

United Kingdom 

Yes, the chances are it is the battery if that is when it started.
As it has produced an aromatic output so to speak I would say it leaks, and sounds like it's wet cell too.

I would be tending to wonder if it may have been dropped prior to purchase. Confused
Perhaps a hairline crack in the casing but above the acid level.

I recently fitted this:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Yuasa-YBX5019-C...2749.l2649
I have found it to be really good so far, straight swap for the factory fit. Specs are actually an upgrade in AH and CCA specs and a battery condition indicator too.
Made in Wales.

I would consider contacting Optima Battery direct and see what they say. Very Happy Diesels Lives Matter

Post #819481 13th Mar 2020 8:33pm
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MadTom



Member Since: 10 Sep 2013
Location: Olomouc
Posts: 397

Czech Republic 1999 Defender 130 Td5 HCPU Baltic Blue

Remove the battery, let it be one day and measure voltage. Good battery should be 12,5V. Your looks like one shorted cell, so probably the voltage will be 10V or lower. With one or more shorted cells in battery the rest is heavilly overcharged, hence the acid smell. "Drobek" = The Small One - Discovery 2, "Blufínek" = The Blue Thing - Defender 130, and for me at least Ford Mondeo Smile

Post #819486 13th Mar 2020 9:03pm
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Stripygitface



Member Since: 16 Sep 2014
Location: Kent
Posts: 61

If you still have problems after trying batteries, the disconnect the alternator, and leave overnight, as if the diodes have gone then there will be a constant draw through it.

Post #819548 14th Mar 2020 9:10am
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