 | Home > In Car Electronics > Light Bar Fuse Melting |
 
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| DuncanS Member Since: 07 Dec 2013 Location: Cumbria Posts: 295   
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Always assume the figures for wattage and current draw are garbage. Only very few manufacturers (Rigid, Laser etc) quote somewhat realistic figures rather than theoretical ones. I tend to use one of these for unknown circuit draws.LINK HERE although cheaper ones are available.
24A would seem realistic for a 50" Bar. I tend to use (depending on cable run) 4.5mm2 (42a) by default for lightbar wiring as it covers every base I've come across so far and I usually fuse at 25ish amps. As you have discovered, the wiring is too thin for the bar, but the fuse is blowing due to the high current, not because the wiring can't handle it, the two are mutually exclusive. Also when sizing cable we need to take into account distance to account for voltage drop. A really helpful guide has been written by 12 volt planet and is available here and is well worth a read: https://www.12voltplanet.co.uk/cable-sizing-selection.html https://www.12voltplanet.co.uk/fuses-guide-uses.html There is also a voltage drop calculator on there for those wanting to learn more and have a play around. North Cumbria Search and Rescue - Team Leader |
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14th Jan 2020 12:29pm |
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| Supacat Member Since: 16 Oct 2012 Location: West Yorkshire Posts: 11018 
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Why not put a meter into the circuit and see what the actual current draw is, instead of going off 2nd hand info?
Out of interest why didn't you use the wiring kit the light is supposed to come with? |
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14th Jan 2020 8:04pm |
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| 90 Dreamer Member Since: 13 Jul 2019 Location: Oop North Posts: 2050 
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Slightly OT but where are people routing wiring for the roof lights??
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14th Jan 2020 8:53pm |
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| topless_matt Member Since: 29 Mar 2015 Location: norfolk Posts: 68  
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Through the roof behind passenger side bulkhead. Down into the seat box where the relay is housed. Hold my beer and watch this!
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14th Jan 2020 9:30pm |
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| 90 Dreamer Member Since: 13 Jul 2019 Location: Oop North Posts: 2050
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As in physically drilling the roof or is there an alternative??
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14th Jan 2020 9:31pm |
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| DSC-off Member Since: 16 Oct 2014 Location: North East Posts: 1350 
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If there is a raised air intake fitted, the wires can exit the engine bay under the bonnet gap. Then run up the side of the snorkle. Some intake kits have facility to neatly run wires or breather pipes inside the snorkle.
Mud stuff have some shrouded cable glands that look an acceptable solution if the cable has to go through the roof. |
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14th Jan 2020 11:32pm |
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| donmacn Member Since: 07 Nov 2017 Location: Nth Scotland Posts: 1829 |
Mine are wired through the roof. If you do opt for that, rather than go to look at a 'car' accessory provider, I'd suggest having a good look at marine cable glands. I think the one I've got is "blue sea" but there will be others.
While a Defender roof will get wet, and deal routinely with 50-60mph 'winds', a marine fitting will be expected to deal with big lumps of water arriving with some force. (Apologies to the OP - I hadn't appreciated that I was continuing the 'off topic' thing - though I hope it was useful!) Donald 1994 Defender 300Tdi 110 SW - owned since 2002 - 230k miles and going strong (The 'rolling restoration' or tinkering thread: http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic58538.html ) 2000 Range Rover P38 4.0L V8 in the past.. RR classic - fitted with 200Tdi 1984 RR classic - V8 with ZF auto box 1993 Discovery 300Tdi not to mention the minis and the Type 2 VW camper... |
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14th Jan 2020 11:53pm |
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| Supacat Member Since: 16 Oct 2012 Location: West Yorkshire Posts: 11018
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Missed your link first time of reading - that's a nice bit of kit:  Click image to enlarge and rated to 80A according to the spec sheet. I use a lowly TA123, only rated to 20A: |
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15th Jan 2020 11:02am |
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| BaronDefenders Member Since: 28 Jun 2019 Location: London/Cotswolds Posts: 805 
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I shall see if I can get my hands on one of those!
And for the route question, my wiring goes between the windscreen frame and the door seal. Charlie 1949 Series 1 80 (SOLD) 2002 Td5 90 (SOLD) 2008 Freelander 2 (SOLD) 1958 Series 2 88 Pastel Green (2019 LR Legends Best Restored) 1983 V8 110 Limestone (Previously owned by Tom Sheppard MBE) 2004 Td5 90 Santorini Black (Td5INSIDE Powered & Rebuilt by CSK) 2012 Puma 110 Zermatt Silver (Overlanding Build) Instagram: @BaronDefenders |
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15th Jan 2020 12:03pm |
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| hank Member Since: 12 Sep 2016 Location: South Wales Posts: 2224  
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15th Jan 2020 12:08pm |
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| Supacat Member Since: 16 Oct 2012 Location: West Yorkshire Posts: 11018
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You could look to improve that with something like this: https://www.12voltplanet.co.uk/scanstrut-h...ables.html Click image to enlarge
But you could also say the way you have done it is the "official" way: Click image to enlarge |
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15th Jan 2020 2:27pm |
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| DuncanS Member Since: 07 Dec 2013 Location: Cumbria Posts: 295
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Yep I have a scanstrut multiseal for the rear lightbar and rear roof accessories when I finally get round to fitting it. The front lightbar is going internally to the snorkel with some compression glands. North Cumbria Search and Rescue - Team Leader
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15th Jan 2020 9:48pm |
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