![]() | Home > Maintenance & Modifications > Ball Bearing Security |
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LandRoverAnorak Member Since: 17 Jul 2011 Location: Surrey Posts: 11325 ![]() ![]() |
They're easy enough to insert and difficult, although not impossible to lever out again, which is of course the whole point.
As an aside, I recently came across these on eBay, which appear to be a slightly more elegant solution. I suspect removal would require some very careful drilling: ![]() Click image to enlarge https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/BjQAAOSwm~daaF5i/s-l1600.jpg Darren 110 USW BUILD THREAD - EXPEDITION TRAILER - 200tdi 90 BUILD THREAD - SANKEY TRAILER - IG@landroveranorak "You came in that thing? You're braver than I thought!" - Princess Leia |
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bankz5152 Member Since: 02 Feb 2017 Location: South London/North Kent Posts: 2213 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Id buy the bombproof door hinges instead. Serves the same purpose but you havnt got a total ass of a job when you need a door off.
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blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17767 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Personally I don't think that the bombproof hinge plates offer any security at all as they assume that the hinges are being unbolted in order to gain access to the vehicle. In practice it is so easy to open the door first that the only reason to unbolt the hinges is to steal the doors, and once they are open the hinge plates do nothing.
Ball bearings are very effective but if securely bonded can take a long time to remove, which is exactly what you want. |
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hank Member Since: 12 Sep 2016 Location: South Wales Posts: 2325 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
I appreciate that for some welding is not an option,
However if I were to weld the bolts to the hinge (from behind the hinge to maintain OE appearance), effectively turning the bolts into studs, then this would render the bolts "tamper proof" externally? Can anybody see a reason why this would not be advised? > 110 XS Double Cab |
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TheShrink Member Since: 25 Apr 2019 Location: Somerset Posts: 47 ![]() ![]() |
Would someone PM me to explain how a ball bearing can be extracted?
Also, does putting silicone over the heads of bolts work? Thanks |
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blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17767 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
It doesn't address the real issue, the screws which go into the captive nuts in the A posts (and B posts on a 110). |
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blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17767 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Balls can usually be removed with great difficulty and a lot of patience. I replaced my ball-bearinged hinges a while back (110 DC, so 4 doors) and it took a variety of tools and about a day of my time to get enough balls out to get the hinges off. Filling the socket heads of the fasteners is effective and it is still fairly time-consuming to dig out enough to unscrew them, though not in the same league as balls. If you have pin torx 'security' screws you cannot use balls so silicon or similar filler is an easy alternative. |
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hank Member Since: 12 Sep 2016 Location: South Wales Posts: 2325 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Sorry, if these were replaces with conventional nuts > 110 XS Double Cab |
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LandRoverAnorak Member Since: 17 Jul 2011 Location: Surrey Posts: 11325 ![]() ![]() |
The problem is that you can't get to the backs of those to use conventional nuts. They're inside the A and B posts. Darren
110 USW BUILD THREAD - EXPEDITION TRAILER - 200tdi 90 BUILD THREAD - SANKEY TRAILER - IG@landroveranorak "You came in that thing? You're braver than I thought!" - Princess Leia |
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hank Member Since: 12 Sep 2016 Location: South Wales Posts: 2325 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Trying to think back to remember what it's like, am away from my Defender in Saudi Arabia at the moment . Will have to refresh my memory when home over Christmas! > 110 XS Double Cab
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blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17767 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
You can actually get to the B post nuts on a 110/130, but you'd have to cut holes in the bulkhead for the A post.
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X4SKP Member Since: 29 Nov 2013 Location: Berkshire Posts: 2303 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Hello TheShrink
I agree that the door bolts are a worth while security level and easy enough to implement and probably take the vehicle to a point that put off the opportunist as it adds time to get round this step. If all doors (and probably the bonnet too) are removed from a Defender, cutting the loom to the central locking / electric windows in the process, this can potentially result in the vehicle being written off (there is a post on D2N that ended this way) I hadn't seen the Torx infills posted by LandRoverAnorak and I would view these as essentially a 'sealed for life' security step, may ok... but the ball bearings do give you a reverse option. I haven't needed to do it on the Defender but have needed to remove a component from a bicycle (Brooks saddle) by drilling out, basically a small drill bit (I used a Dremel) at 3 of the Torx 'end points' and the metal based resin isopon 'gave way'...with some gentle encouragement. I replaced all Torx bolts with SS versions (site sponsor) used cycle ball bearings to infill I also painted the end result body colour here is mid process... ![]() Click image to enlarge Good Luck SKIP https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic83242.html |
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Caterham Member Since: 06 Nov 2008 Location: Birmingham Posts: 6331 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
I've been thinking about the silicon option but still haven't got round to it' I'm sure it would suffice in slowing removal down sufficiently. ![]() |
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Paul1275s Member Since: 21 Apr 2019 Location: East Sussex Posts: 80 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
I’m probably just going to drill the head of the bolts to remove the torx profile once bolts are fitted securely. So basically it’s like having a rounded head. I’ve got enough cobalt drill bits and easy-outs if I ever need to remove the doors. Might back up with a ball bearing. At the end of the day my doors are dented to
![]() 2003 Caterham 7 2006 Mini Cooper GP |
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