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Not_Given



Member Since: 25 Dec 2017
Location: UK
Posts: 29

United Kingdom 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SW Orkney Grey

Brilliant! Thanks, blue.

Also found this pdf on here for others reading this thread

https://www.defender2.net/gallery/albums/u...8v2-a1.pdf

Post #801335 8th Nov 2019 10:40am
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Harry.O



Member Since: 25 Jul 2014
Location: Leicestershire...or Ghana
Posts: 534

United Kingdom 1989 Defender 90 300 Tdi ST Nato Green

For the relatively minor cost, magnetic drain plugs might be a good idea also. 2005 Td5 110 Hardtop
1989 300Tdi 90 Soft top
1992 200Tdi 90 Truck cab with Land Cruiser axles

Post #801337 8th Nov 2019 10:48am
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Not_Given



Member Since: 25 Dec 2017
Location: UK
Posts: 29

United Kingdom 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SW Orkney Grey

Thank you, Harry. I had assumed Ashcroft replacement diffs come with Mag plugs. I will check.

Post #801340 8th Nov 2019 11:18am
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bankz5152



Member Since: 02 Feb 2017
Location: South London/North Kent
Posts: 1427

2004 Defender 110 Td5 DCPU Epsom Green

Not_Given wrote:
Bluericky,

Flanges on the list, thank you. It’s also getting some Gwynn Lewis half-shafts, to refresh the drive train. Considered the triple ATB option, but I’ve recently had a new Clutchfix clutch and Ashcroft output shaft and so I’m loath to much about in an around there at the moment.

Anyone have a link for the ‘catch brackets’? I’m coming up short on my Search engine skills. I saw what happened to Grizzly&Bear. Looked very nasty, but I had no idea out-of-recall axles were at-risk too.

NG


Go direct to Bailey Morris. Newer version and cheaper

If youre having the diffs built go to Nige at Xcess 4x4. Second to none in the UK. Instagram @defender_ventures

Post #801341 8th Nov 2019 11:39am
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sako243



Member Since: 08 Jul 2014
Location: Wales
Posts: 652

Wales 1994 Defender 110 300 Tdi CSW Alpine White

bankz5152 wrote:
If youre having the diffs built go to Nige at Xcess 4x4. Second to none in the UK.

Second Nige, a friend has had both of his diffs into Ashcrofts a total of 4 or 5 times now with various issues after having new centres installed with various bearing and pinion issues, this is a vehicle that does about 2-4k per year. Since going to Nige he hasn't had an issue.

Ashcrofts build some fantastic stuff but I'd go to Nige for the actual build up. Bonus is that Ashcrofts will ship direct to him for nothing. Ed
95 Defender 110 300Tdi
96 P38 4.6 HSE

Post #801343 8th Nov 2019 12:16pm
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Mo Murphy



Member Since: 01 Jun 2008
Location: Letchworth Garden City, Herts
Posts: 1153

United Kingdom 1984 Defender 90 200 Tdi HT Orkney Grey

So are you planning to far afield or just everyday use ?
Will you carry spares ?
The reason I ask is that by fitting HD everything you just move the weak link further down the drive train.
Ultimately the transfer box becomes the weak link which is a lot harder to repair in the field than a broken half shaft or stripped drive flange.
All the HD kit was developed for the hardcore winch challenge scene where powerful engines and 35'' tyres ate the standard items for breakfast.
If you are getting them just because you can, then fair play enjoy, if you are equipping for a proper overland trip then think carefully about where your weak link is going to be and how easily will it be to repair.
My own spec, is a standard 10 spline front diff, 24 spline rear diff with ARB locker, standard shafts all round (disco one piece on the rear) and a standard LT230 transfer box.
Never broken a half shaft in 25 years of use but I do carry spare long half shafts just in case Wink on foreign jaunts and laning.
Not being critical of your choice just advising a little thought and caution depending, of course, on your intended use.
HTH
Mo The Land Rover 90 - Many are called, few are chosen.

Post #801380 8th Nov 2019 6:06pm
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bankz5152



Member Since: 02 Feb 2017
Location: South London/North Kent
Posts: 1427

2004 Defender 110 Td5 DCPU Epsom Green

+1 on the above. Though I tend to snap short shafts!

Shafts are cheap and easy to replace (with the right wheels rears can be done in less than 10 mins)

Fronts little more involved but I have done two front shafts/CVs in the field with limited spares.



Click image to enlarge


Even though ive now broken 4 front shafts/CVs I wont be going HD as itll just do damage elsewhere.

However me and a mate did have a chat and thought if you did have HD everything make some weak flanges. I
E remoce every other toother on a standard cheap flange. That way if something breaks its 10 mins and a £5 part not £2k on a box and youre stranded. That said each to their own. Instagram @defender_ventures

Post #801395 8th Nov 2019 8:00pm
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Mo Murphy



Member Since: 01 Jun 2008
Location: Letchworth Garden City, Herts
Posts: 1153

United Kingdom 1984 Defender 90 200 Tdi HT Orkney Grey

^^^^ Ruff arse ! Rolling with laughter
Mo The Land Rover 90 - Many are called, few are chosen.

Post #801441 9th Nov 2019 7:09am
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Not_Given



Member Since: 25 Dec 2017
Location: UK
Posts: 29

United Kingdom 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SW Orkney Grey

Some great food-for-thought there. I appreciate the time you‘ve all taken to respond. My philosophy is ‘Buy once, buy right.’ So, why a defender, you may ask? Infinitely repairable and upgradeable, but with a soul. And it makes me smile. I don’t intend to buy another vehicle. Ever.

The drivetrain upgrades are part of a long term plan that hopefully will culminate in a LS and auto box (which may end up living in Canada). The transfer box will get its love and attention then.

The point about only being as strong as the weakest link is very valid, but I don’t do hard wheeling, just like to get out there. Hopefully I am not speaking too soon!.

It’s only money!

Thanks again, all

Post #801471 9th Nov 2019 11:13am
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Piggy501



Member Since: 27 Sep 2017
Location: Scotland
Posts: 21

Scotland 2001 Defender 110 Td5 SW Alveston Red

bankz5152 wrote:
If youre having the diffs built go to Nige at Xcess 4x4. Second to none in the UK.


While Nige can build a super strong diff he also sells modifications that, while they might not add outright strength, do add to the longevity of your components, his diff pinion flange as an example, or magnetic plugs. Little things that wouldn't take much to add while getting a diff built up, but like you say, would be a bit of a pain to fit once the axles are back under the vehicle.

Post #801484 9th Nov 2019 12:39pm
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bankz5152



Member Since: 02 Feb 2017
Location: South London/North Kent
Posts: 1427

2004 Defender 110 Td5 DCPU Epsom Green

Yup and ever improving. Both my diffs are Ash centers in a Pegged ultrabuild casing. Far from cheap but flawless. Instagram @defender_ventures

Post #801497 9th Nov 2019 2:43pm
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oneten110



Member Since: 02 Jul 2011
Location: North Yorkshire
Posts: 610

United Kingdom 

The basic trouble with a Land Rover drivetrain is that you spend money strengthening one item only for the next part up or downstream to break.
If you want stronger axles, it might be worth your while considering these, ideally in conjunction with Dana (Salisbury) axles front and rear.
http://lvboverland.co.uk/tibus-portals/4593873706 It is not a Defender, it is a One_Ten

Post #801631 10th Nov 2019 4:12pm
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Not_Given



Member Since: 25 Dec 2017
Location: UK
Posts: 29

United Kingdom 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SW Orkney Grey

I’ll bet they’re not cheep!

Seen a G-wagon 6x6 with portals in the Middle East. Could practically walk underneath the thing.

Post #801768 11th Nov 2019 1:30pm
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SteveT247



Member Since: 21 Feb 2011
Location: Central
Posts: 368

England 2002 Defender 90 Td5 XS CSW Bonatti Grey

I've run lockers with ashcroft shafts, drive flanges, and cv joints on 2 different 90's for the best part of 8 years. A mate has run the same set up for about 6+ years. Neither of us have had any issues with parts breaking either in the axles or gearbox/transfer box and they are used regularly.

Post #801831 11th Nov 2019 7:27pm
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